JayD

True, I guess I shouldn't post while fit-shaced anymore.... You get the basics of what I was saying though right?

Yeah, with superchargers, centrifugal, roots and all other belt driven superchargers, it really takes HP to make HP. Sometimes its not worth it. If you have a stock engine with 250+ hp, and you want to add a S/C, consider the weight of the Sc, and the power/weight that you are gonna achieve. If you're burning more ponies to make some, then it's really not beneficial to you.

There was a lot of cool things I got to see/do while I was in. I saw Saliva and Puddle of Mudd (POM's singer is a douche btw). Even though I'm not in anymore, I do sometimes miss the life of fear and danger, Oh the life of an airborne ranger.

Off topic here, but Nunya, I have seen your avatar pic and it just dawned on me that it was Boo-berry haha, I miss boo-berry

So it doesn't run too rich? Thats a good thing if it doesn't.

Ok, so rated stock Hp/Tq for the Z24 TBI is 103hp/134Tq... The KA24DE is rated at 155hp/160tq. Still researching if anyone makes a S/C kit for the KA24DE....

Check out the stickies in the 'Garage' Forum - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711

This might help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711

I would love to find out, See fabricating things isn't gonna be tough for me... I'm a mad scientist. Bwhahahaha, Whats the Compression ratio on the stock TBI Z24? If possible, and I know it'll need it anyways, is to deck the new head, and see where I'm at from there and see what I'm looking at as far as boost. I wonder if... I'd have to get the whole thing rewired, but how much room is under the hood with JUST the plenum? I wouldn't mind tinkering with a 3800 supercharger idea... I know someone that fabbed one for a mazda protege, so if that's possible, then there is no reason, that with EFI, that I can't do a similar setup. It would require me to do a LOT of research on air flow in the KA/Z head, possibly fab up some custom intake runners with butterfly valves that open up more at about 4k.... Damn at the ideas!!!!! If it were possible for me to make a supercharger plenum with all the hardware.... Wait... I'd have to figure out the I/C setup as if it gets mud between the fins, it'll decrease performance. I'll do a bit of research and see if I can make sufficient boost without needing an I/C... Probably not enough to make a noticeable difference. I guess I'll have to do my homework, take some measurements... and get to mocking a setup up so that it will be road ready by at LEAST spring 2012.

I see the KA... anyone elaborate on it? I'll keep digging. I see the one I want... KA24DE (T in the future...)

I was wondering if there were any heads off of any other engines that would mate up to the Z24 block, and if so, any that are preferably FI? I may have asked before... not sure if I did though... I don't nescessarily want to change out engines, because I want to see what kind of potential the Z24 bottom end has. Another reason I want Fuel injection, is so that I can boost it, using MS standalone. I could fab a mani for whatever trim turbo I wanted, but I need some helpful words of encouragement and a point in the proper direction before I go tearing stuff up and trying to rewire everything. I'll do a google search, and see if I can find something in the meantime, but I figured I'd ask the gurus first. Cheers!

Wow, someone told me (on here) that they were NI engines... Reason I asked, is because my Scrat (Mazda BP engine) IS a Non-interference engine, and in case there's some freak accident, I don't want to engrave my pistons or bend a valve if my timing belt goes and takes a dump on me. Guess that'll be the first thing I replace, along with the WP and acc belts when I go to pick mine up.

Thought they were non-interference engines?

Oh and +1 on EZ-outs. Saved my arse MANY times.

And don't buy cheap wrenches if you plan on doing the DIY extension. I've bent more off-brand wrenches in half that anything. As a matter of fact, unless you're ONLY doing small repairs (and in which case you should always be prepared) For goodness sake, save up and get some hand-tools that A. Have an UNLIMITED lifetime warranty, and B. Some that come from a reputable dealer. Blue Point is a subsidiary of Snap-on and I have a LOT of blue point sockets, wrenches and ratchets, and they have with-held my abuse. Also: Air compressors aren't ungodly expensive, I have a 15 gallon that I used for my 1/2 dr air impact, just for the STUBBORN bolts, (Along with P.B. Blaster, which I'll cover in a moment...) and it works just fine. Looks a little trashy, but it gets the job done. Since I'm on the subject of impacts, For the mobile mechanic, get an 18+ V electric Cordless impact from a reputable dealer. I got a Cornwell one (I know, it was cheap ) and it worked surprisingly well! For my little escort, removing the trans (X-member, whole 9) with rusty mount bolts by HAND TOOLS, would usually take 4-5 hours, with no breaks. I got it out, clutch replaced, in and driving in about 2 hrs with the electric impact and a few wobble sockets. Here is the link for a lot of Cornwell cordless power tools (Arr arr arr as Tim Allen would say) and these are incredibly inexpensive, and incredibly handy if you're out on the trail, and don't have access to, oh, let's just say, a high capacity air compressor and all that mess. Look for good break-away torque and sustaining torque, as you want to optimize your options if it's a "Walk or sit" kind of incident. NOW, With P.B. Blaster, I can't say enough good things about it. It cleans up hazy headlights, and if you soak, let sit, soak every 30 minutes for I'd say an hour or two, it helps tremendously on parts you can't just apply heat to (Anything bushing related you want to keep). Be careful though, as it advertises on the can that it will eat through a styrofoam cup. Granted, bushings are GENERALLY more durable than a cup.... made of styrofoam.... but, it does do the job of penetrating rust (along with a BFH and some elbow grease) and ease up the job at hand by multitudes. Ratchets.... Oh joy. Anyone care to guess how many I've turned the gears to dust in?? DON'T BUT CRAP TOOLS. I know the Missus may be giving you the evil eye when you opt for the 60.00 ratchet over the 19.99 combo set, but in reality, you're liable to spend at least that in replacing that cheap piece of crap when you could have spent 60 bucks.... one time.... and not had to stress out because you got the job 1/4 way in and you're stuck with no tools. You need to have a good set of extensions, I have only snap-on and craftsman extensions in my box. A couple of Bluepoint 1/2" extensions in various sizes as well. If you can swing the extra money, get the locking extensions... Trust me when I say that you do NOT want to loose a 20.00 socket somewhere you can't get it (and even then, get a magnet tool). but if it's un-attainable via the magnet tool, you'll wish you had gotten the locking extensions... take my word on that. Ever lost a socket in an injector hole on a Triton V10 Diesel, on a non-compression stroke piston??? PITA!!! Anyways... Enough about that. Wrenches.... Do some research on wrench metal material, Don't buy that cheap 'Chrome-Vanadium' crap. I can't tell you how many 90* wrenches I have in CV... It's absolute crap, and another one of those 'I'm gonna get a dirty look from my wife, but better to be safe than sorry' kind of instances. Now don't get me wrong... those angled wrenches work pretty well for some things, but for the majority, when the integrity of the metal is compromised, it could very well snap if you are torquing things down with enough force to bend them like me. I got a set of Gear-wrench ratcheting wrenches.... Fairly impressed with them, even though they were a little more expensive than I particularly like. Craftsman has a decent set of comb. wrenches that fit up to 7 different bolt heads. They are REALLY inexpensive, so look up the reviews on them before you buy them. Here is the link for the 'universal' Combination wrenches. 20.00 isn't half bad for those... Note to self... "Dear Santa..." ANYWAYS.... I was a mechanic in the Army, and after that a certified Ford Technician, so if you have any questions about general automotive tools, I'll try to point you in the right direction. I hope some of this helps out someone.

B, that first post is phenomenal. I learned a metric ton from this sticky... Maybe more people will read it? I should put it in my sig!!!

This for 6cyl or 4cyl? I'm intrigued as to changing my 4 banger from TBI to FI.

Couldn't have said it any better! +1 AHB!

Didn't see this one in the list... Here's my contribution - Andy's Auto Sport Nissan

Dead thread revival... But any pics of said 'ball' and its housing?

I've read this entire thread and am in utter awe! Great job! Can't give enough Kudos for this one. This may be saved in my archives if I ever attempt to get mo' powah!

Added the pics for you... Nice Pathy btw!

Great thread! This is the kind of stuff I need/want to know about my vehicles! How often should all these fluids be changed? Mine has been sitting up for the past 4 years, so that's a given that it needs changing... But on regular service intervals, what's the recommended lifespan of the diff fluid/TC fluid etc? This makes for my first 4WD since the Humvees we had in the Army.