Smashfinder

Yeah, I had a feeling the wheels need a re-do as soon as I laid eyes on her. Theres a lot of lead there. I also think that for the BL, I'll just have to order a new kit from AC, and probably take the hit at the border. Offhand, has anyone had luck getting AC to use USPS vice UPS? UPS is the very worst option for broker fees at the 49th. Brodie

Took some searchin to find out how to get this up, but here we go Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So I sold my pathfinder last summer, and was riding in a 03 Frontier with a bajillion kms on it. Every day, I missed my pathy. Last week, I found one online in Victoria, BC that blew my mind: 1993 Pathfinder, SE-V6 4WD, Loaded with heated leather, CC, A/C, sunroof, 4w disc, LSD, ...and 5Spd. It has a custom front bumper with removable 12k winch, 3+3 Calmini SL/Custom BL, 33" Interco Traxus M/Ts, Warn Hubs, pacesetter headers (w/ 300ZX studs), Dual friction clutch, Custom Dual Exhaust, MAF bypass, Steering Stab, custom bracketed Idler Arm, and more. Its throwing a lot of ponies, and its the rarest model I can think of (all the Nissan SE/LE pkg with Manual Trans). Interior is in pretty good shape (though my wolf-dog will probably change that) and the frame and body have been recently treated for all the standard rust spots. This guy who is a welder by trade, just finished building this rig over the last few weeks. Once he finished, he needed to sell it quick for some house money. I was there, cash in hand. He had literally just finished building this rig, and nearly all the aftermarket parts were brand new. Felt weird buying a pre-built truck, but it will definitely be a project anyway. He built for nothing but off-road, where I like performance on both sides where I can manage. The truck has lots of pros, but of course there are some cons too. It sucks to drive on pavement and on the highway. There is a crazy amount of vibration that I haven't figured out what is causing it yet (suspect steering components). The stock coil springs are sagged, and allow the 33s to stuff way up into the wheel wells and rub real bad (He built and welded his own coil lift brackets on the axle side). Torsion bars have lots of room to adjust up, but not until new coils. He kept the O2 sensor on the exhaust, but only on one side of the dual setup, with no crossover, so she's running awful rich. Dual Exhaust with no Cats sounds very tinny, but that might be because I just found out the exhaust hangars broke, and the mufflers are sitting on the rear axle. And the last but not least custom body lift didnt use all the mounting points... It appears to be from a kit (maybe the 87-89 kit or HB kit), but there are a couple spots empty, including the rear. It appears I have an adventure ahead. Let's see how the wife handles it...

Im in Nanaimo. 4x4 mods: Taken her into a place here called Harbour City Diesel and Off Road. Pretty good place. Good Work on my Lift Kit. BTW my truck is actually For Sale. Its on Used Nanaimo. The link to my Ad with contact info can be found on this site, in the Veh for Sale section

So, I have managed to destroy all four shocks on my 'Trailmastered' Pathy. Deciding on a replacement, I am looking at Pro Comps options (probably the ES3000). Decided not to go with TM shocks, as nobody up here stocks them. ProComps and Ranchos are pretty common though. Ive put my possible decision side by side with the info i was able to get from TM. Wonder what your thoughts are as to fitment. I figure the small differences should account for the OME 3/4" springs and missing rear swaybar, but i am new to custom ordering shocks. Wonder if someone can throw some pointers my way, or tell me if I am way out. [All measurements in Inches (even though Im a Canuck)] Length Part # Make Model F/R Lift Ext Col Travel Diameter Notes 73660 TM SSV Front 4 18.91 11.66 7.25 2 TM kit is 4" front lift 72660 TM SSV Rear 3 25.95 15.42 10.53 2 TM kit is 3" rear lift 319518 ProComp ES3000 Front 4? 19.73 12.03 7.7 2.36 326500 ProComp ES3000 Rear 3.75? 27.07 15.94 11.13 2.36 Link to ProComp Shock Specs (including their sizing and meaning behind their part numbers) (Check last page): Procomp Shock applications pdf File I think if I get this right, I will post the spreadsheet I am making to gather info on the Pinned Shock Options page here in the garage, to help prevent people like me from posting questions that have been probably answered once or twice (I swear I searched the forum this time). Cheers

PM Sent. Vive NPORA! Long live our poster truck! And best of luck to our founder! Finally, a reason to bypass the wife in ordering these... goona pay for that later...

I threw a set of Old Man Emu Springs in my rig. They are maybe 3/4 of an inch over stock, so you can get away with the shocks you already have. The stiffer ride in the back is nice too. Being designed for the veh, they just pop in. Should be able to source them from local parts store, or spring shop. Not too expensive either. Not as cheap as JGC springs from the wrecker, but...

I dunno if i could buy a 'truck' without a solid rear end... or a manual tranny option for that matter. by the by, i was at the stealership, and they said theyre ordering the 08s already. looked online, and all the 08 trucks are comin out by summer. Also, they had a nismo frontier at the dealer today (king cab, 6 spd). aint goona lie, I was tempted... i bet they'd gimme a few grand for my gurl... no, must stay strong! dont sell.. oh god, i'm so torn up!

Yeah, that sounds pretty sweet, especially since you are on the cold side of the border

From battery is an immediate 15A fuse, then the PIAA relay. a ground wire sprouts from that, as well as 4 other wires. 2 go through the firewall, to the lights in the rear, the other 2 go to the Switch in the cab. From the switch is the slave wire to the 'black' reverse light wire on the Tail light assembly (btw, major PITA to splice into that short a wire, even with the clip). I was sure it called for red/pos wire, but i could've been wrong. It didnt work then either. instead, when i pushed the switch to the slave position, it fired up my stock reverse lights, even when not in reverse, but the piaas didnt come on. Both piaa lights have a ground as well. i dont think there's a problem there, cause as i said, they work fine in 'on' mode. As i am typing to myself, i wonder if there may be a problem where i spliced to get in the firewall. dunno, i can usually make a decent splice, and i use real 88 tape. also the splices are inside the vehicle, not outside... hampsters in my head are crankin the rusty wheel...

Also, anyone know a good PIAA to throw in the front as a Drivin Fog light (OE style) im thinkin maybe a cost effective way would be gettin some OE lights with PIAA bulbs. Or maybe forkin the cash for PIAA lamps. Suggestions? Im pretty sure Im keepin to PIAA, but im easy

PIAA 1500 Backup lights Got these a while back and put em in meself... Did my PIAA 510 FLs w/o too much trouble, though I am no electrician, or mechanic for that matter Anyhow, I mounted em on my back bumper without too much trouble. The lights have a 3 stage switch: On, Off, and Slaved to the stock reverse lights. Unit draws power direct from the battery through a 15A fuse. Switch has a wire leading to the reverse light on the passenger side (for the 3rd stage of operation). Heres where the problem lies. I have connected the PIAA 'slave wire' to both wires leading into the reverse light. In both cases, the 'on' stage worked fine, as well as 'off.' 'slave mode' is no good. connected to the first wire on slave mode: Stock lights are c/onstantly on, even if im not in reverse. The PIAAs dont come on at all. Connected to the other wire: on and off still work, but when in slave, as soon as I put her in R, I burn out the 15A fuse. input? Kinda nervous about usin a bigger fuse. Bloody lights were $$

Hi Slick. My Name is Smashfinder, and I have come here to tell everyone that I too am a Pathaholic. I've been about ten minutes without a joy ride. I think I'm going to have a regression soon... Also, I'm a lurker

WB, Boss. Good to hear from the guy who had the genius idea of starting this place up. Thanks for that, by the way. I wish you good luck in your personal, and pathfinding adventures

here's the other one: Rust was the culprit, in my case. The long trip through the rockis just finished the job. I would suggest either PROCOMP or RANCHO replacements. I've used em both, and they were both really nice. Probable cheaper than OEM, too.

Hey, I've done that one. My First Pathy was an 89XE, and BOTH of the shocks snapped at the mounts, although they did it while i was driving from Calgary to Vancouver. It's an interesting thing, having your vehicle turn into a slinky at 150Km/H. Doesn't corner so good, though. I got pics still, here

wasnt the distributor rotor. Was hopin it might be. I did get a good price on the injectors though, so im goona put those in when i get em. i couldnt get any codes from the dealership, cause every time the truck getrs near there, she starts runnin fine i will clean the MAF sensor before i buy the parts, but im really leanin toward the injectors. Ill do the O2 sensor for good measure I lean toward the injector, because when i swapped the plugs a few weeks ago, one was covered in soot

XE, just try to get the Spare Carrier (aka Noisemaker), and the LSD Gaawd I wish I had an LSD. Theres some really nice aftermarket ones out there, and theyre made to fit the open-Diff case. Those cost a great deal of cashola though. I Voted XE, because the SE has way too much crap that doesnt work anymore, as soon as you use it... with passion. My 92 XE has one option: A/C, and it works. My old 89 XE had all the shiny stuff, but they broke, like the Automatic Transmission. Stupid Automajiks! XE, because manual stuff is harder to break. Just put an LSD in Could call the properly modded pathies: S-XE, SE-XE(cute...), XXE, XE-X or just go out and call it GT-R, another fine Nissan Trim

Introducing.. ME! Livin In Nanaimo. Nice Rides. I REALLY Wish I had an SE, or just the LSD from one. I run a 92 XE, with 4" TrailMaster/Calmini Lift. She's a nice truck, but she's expensive. Thank the gods Afghanistan keeps me employed, or Id never have been able to afford the work Ive done so far.. Anyhow, just droppin a line to say howdy, and its nice to know Im not the only one who loves his Pathy

sweet Pathy, especially for the interior. Every time my truck even thinks about going the Coquihalla way, she rusts a little more. Cheers, from Nanaimo

I Did the TM 4" Lift, and it turns into a big project fast. A Lot of lifts above 2" call for new Wheels.. usually not cheap, especially for 5. Rubber costs money, too. Steering becomes an issue pretty quick off-roading, even without a lift. Those kits aren't cheap(especially since I have to get everything shipped accross the border) If I were to do it again, I think I would go with Calmini Right away. Their parts seem really strong, and theyve made a name for themselves with more than just gimmicks. There seems to be some Engineering thought in what they sell. 'Course, theyre expensive, and take Forever to ship, sometimes. My TM Kit is nice(no other 4" Kits that Ive seen), but there was some things I didnt like right away: -Coil spacers, vice longer coils (stock coils are prob sagged, so count out an Actual 4" in the rear, unless you put in bigger springs) -Rear Axle appears pulled forward, so now theres not as much clearance in the wells. -Crossmsmber + T-Bars in harm's way(or maybe that's just my truck) -No HD T-Bars in the kit. (Again, Stock T-Bars prob sagged) -Must be really careful with Wheel selection. If there's too much Backspace, You wont be able to run a decent sized tire (BFG 33s Rubbed on the UCAs when we put em on the Eagle Alloy Rims) From what I can see in the images, The Calmini Kit Addresses Every Single One of these issues, except the Wheel Backspace. That was my fault. Sorry, rambling again

ill check the rotor. i dont remember it looking bad when i did the dist cap. It does sit overnight, and yeah, rust happens a little more than I'd like to admit

just did the pass side rocker cover. yeah its pretty dead simple. if you have to replace the gasket, theyre pretty reasonably priced, and easy to put in. screws are all that holds it in, just might take a bit of 'nudging' to get it off. Be careful though. It really doesnt take much to damage the metal, if you try to pry the cover off. Hammer and wood-block will do it, with some effort.