OlBlue

Hey, have you already checked and cleaned all your connections, and checked the condition of your cables? Tested your starter?

Thanks guys, I will be taking a look at it this weekend.

Hi thanks, I noticed the mileage is down, and she sounds rough. The leak is right up at the manifold. I am going to redo the t-belt next weekend and hopefully get to the exhaust too.

Hi, my exhaust is leaking badly. What effect will this have on performance? Will it set off a knock sensor code?

I deal with NAPA a lot and am fortunate to have found an outlet with a guy behind the counter who really knows his stuff. It seems they have different kinds of stores, some are company stores and others are some other class, both with the same products but there are significant price differences between them(?) Have also had great dealings with Rock Auto, even with the border delays the pricing was reasonable. Good ol CT is fine for filters,plugs,belts, bulbs, anything more complicated, no way. As far as PS goes I think it would be best if the guy just gave me the catalogue to thumb through as they seem to be on a voyage of discovery anytime I have gone in there. Unfortunately, aside from the bone yard I have no "new" options to offer.

Not sure what the problem is, or what caused it (yet) but will be sure to let you guys know. I hope to get the vehicle pushed into the garage this weekend for a once over. After looking over my spare AT and thinking about the engine swap on my 91 last summer, I am thinking it would be much easier to pull the engine with the trans still connected, install the replacement (and some leaking oil seals) on the hoist/floor than just dropping the trans and trying to install then replacement from underneath. I don't like the idea of wrestling with that front diff again, which goes with removing the engine but what I have read on the TC, and what I remember about lining up the trans to the engine I think it might be the way to go. If I pull the works, disconnent the deceased trans and place the engine in a cradle, line up the new trans using the hoist, and drop the work back in I wonder if that would be simpler exercise? I realize either way it is a big job, and from what I have seen posted both have their challenges. Will let you know how the diagnosis goes. Good times.

That cracked me up. Unfortunately the owner and operator of Hoth-Nissan ordered in the back up trans before the bolt on Xterra thread started.

Thanks fellas, I am pretty sure this is more than a electronic glitch. I was going through the FSM after my initial post and haven't found anything that resembles a simple problem/fix. Has anyone heard of a complete failure like this? Can't wait to get a look at it. It was -28C with winds over 90 when she stopped working, so I was pretty I hadn't over heated in the 10-15 seconds I was trying to maneuver out. Maybe I should have taken the "if you need a plow...move" advice earlier? .

Wow...nice work!

Well, I went out and gave it a try hoping a good cool down would help. The dash lights were not much help since the belts were slipping due to the snow that had blown under the hood. Still no dice with the trans engaging. I have been searching some of the old threads, on the safe mode. Once I get it dug out and pushed in I will give it a going over. Good times. thanks

I usually like to wait until I have researched and hit a brick wall before putting out a post...but thought I would make an exception today. Driving home today in some very snowy conditions, after passing a few lesser vehicles hung up and stuck along the way I managed to get my self stuck in a drift. Having negotiated my way out of this same predicament on more than a few occassions, I tried moving from forward to reverse a few time with one front wheel spinning and one back wheel spinning etc. I hopped out and did some shovelling under the front diff/rear diff and began trying to drive out again. At this point I noticed...no wheels were spinning, and the transmission was not engaging at all. Not in D/R/1/2...nothing...I am convinced this is not good. This is a 95 SE, with an AT, fluid levels looked and smelled fine a week ago (routine check), no recent sign of any leaking AT fluid in the snow, no issues with the trans with exception of reverse not always being there. I took a quick peak underneath after getting towed home (first time for everything), and the drive shaft didn't seem to have any play in it and nothing unusual at first glance. Since the storm is still going I thought I would throw this out for opinion on where to start looking when I can get it inside. Any takers?

Believe me it has crossed my mind lately I took my sled to work twice this week...anyway back to our program...sounds like the brush guard should fit. As always thanks for the insight folks.

I think my frame is in decent shape, it's just a lot of weight to hang of the front end and plows are tough on a lot components. It seemed to work fine on the 88.

Thanks fellas, I figured they were the same if not very close. It sounds as though the seller would prefer to part with the bar, and a 6'snow plow as unit. The plow would definetly be of use and this vehicle will never see asphalt again, but I am not sure my tranny,frame, front suspension are up for it. Thoughts?

Can anyone confirm if the front end mounts (tow hooks?)are the same between an 88 HB and a 95 SE? The reason I am asking is I found a mint brush bar on a rusted out King Cab on-line. If it will be a straight bolt on it would be a nice upgrade on my SE.

Hi sorry no pics but they are on here somewhere. Some guys are able to remove install by pulling it out from the top, but I have found it easiest to remove/install from the front. There is a really good post on it. -jack it up -block it (Safety first) -remove front pax side tire (optional but makes things easier) -disconnect battery -drain oil -remove oil filter -remove 2 bolts (14mm? and some extensions) on bell housing -slide starter forward -rotate it past A/T lines, and engine mount (M/T are much easier!!) -remove pax side drag link and move out of the way (optional but makes things easier if you have access to a tie rod tool or fork) -have an 8-12" block or object handy to rest the starter on when you do loosen the nuts on the cables, so that it isn't hanging on the cables. While you look for a 12mm or 1/2" wrench to loosen nuts on cables. I think that is everything...

This sounds familiar...intermittent starter issues... As most have said already start eliminating the simple things first, (+-)connections, cables, relay, all of these are easy to do and don't take a lot of time.

Thanks James that sounds better than removing the works to get a look. I actually hope I messed up the belt installation, and can fix it by adjusting it. That would be great. SEWebster your record is a safe, trust me on that!I will let you guys know how it goes. Really looking forward to counting those teeth, left to right, right to left, up and down, down and up...a zillion times again..

Thanks that sounds better than removing the works to get a look. I actually hope I messed up the belt installation, and can fix it by adjusting it. That would be great. SEWebster your record is a safe, trust me on that!I will let you guys know how it goes. Really looking forward to counting those teeth, left to right, right to left, up and down, down and up...a zillion times again..

I agree, seeing is believing. I will get in there and verify/adjust the belt. I was certain of the tooth count when I put it together, but all signs say something isn't right. Thanks!

I marked off the middle (4th of 7) mark on the crank, warmed up the vehicle and hooked up the timing light. The mark was illuminated to (my) left of the pointer. I guess this verifies that the timing is off because I botched the t-belt install and explains the knock sensor code/dragging feeling?

Nothing, someone stole my sled right out my yard. Spent the evening looking...found it ditched with no gas and the ignition yanked. Hoping to get to t-belt project on my 91 this weekend.

Always! Especially in the winter. Passengers get in, close the door and on the first left turn the door flies open. I guess I should do something about it...

Sounds like something is clogged or your pump is bad. I have gone through a lot of PS hoses in the cold up here but both my pumps are original. If you disconnect or even loosen one end of the hose on the linkage at a time you will be able to figure out if there is a blockage is leaving the pump or on the return. Probably a good a idea to have someone work the steering wheel for you though.

Thanks, maybe I am looking at this backwards eg. bad timing setting off knock, or bad knock retarding timing. I am trying to check the timing to see if it is off and making it run rough and causing the knock sensor code. Since I don't have a history with this engine, I am assuming I messed up the timing belt install. If I hook up the t-light and mark the middle mark on the crank pulley and it looks like it is stationary, I guess the timing is good and my knock sensor might be bad? I haven't completed reading on knock sensors, but haven't seen much on checking to see if they are working. I think my gas is good, my 95 is still running great (same gas) and the plugs look fine on both. Any insights are appreciated I am flying blind on this one.