andrewt6447

Yeh, all the same part from what I've found. I think they used the larger joint on pitman on the later one's to try to stop it wearing out so fast. It's the one that holds the crossrod from rocking.

If you can get the old one off (it sometimes takes heat and a LARGE hammer too) the new one will go on just fine. They have a slight taper which is why they are such a bear to get off. Just tap it into place then tighten the @!*%e outta the nut. It'll go.

It'll be because of the later model steering box. The 93 on one's have a larger taper on the pitman, and a matching one on the centerlink, that's why there are 2 part no's for the pathy's. Maybe you can use the pitman off your earlier box? I've never compared the 2 side by side... Just a bit of extra advice, you really need to make or have made a bit better damper to chassis mount, that straight one you have will bend the first time you put a big load through it. Make it a bit shorter too, the damper should ideally be parallell to the centerlink. I'm guessing you don't have a welder? You could make a sorta y shaped bracket in 2 peices to go around to the other side of the chassis as well and pick up on the same bolt and the damper pin, that'd be much better.

No, they'd be ok, the compressed height doesn't change with a suspension lift. I'd do the suspension lift first, it gives ya more ground clearance, always a bonus....

Cheers, yeh, I read that.....but it's a lot of adjusting....I will if I have to. Hopefully Danger can measure his edit; Actually, duh, I can work it out from this. Cheers for making me think about it....

If there is someone out there with a stock height pathy (anyone?) I'd like to get the measurements fom the upper arm inner pivot (centre) to the ground, and the outer arm (the flat part where the balljoint bolts on) to the ground. At the center point of the bj please. Approximate (within a couple of mm) will be fine. I'm after the stock angle of the upper arm at ride height for some new upper arms as the calmini one's are $800 odd here, and I can build my own. I have all the other measurements I need, just need this one to work out the extra length to make up for the camber change. Mine is way off stock height so it's no good measuring that..... Or does someone know this already? Cheers.

If ya get 'em all from one place it won't be as bad.... I'll checkout the one's from Bnt, but you'll have to source the sleeves from somewhere..... edit: Been and had a looksee, they are exact replicas of the originals, not h/d ones...bugga. Though I guess they'd still do the trick...

http://www.ebay.com/...5ec8b7b&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...c1a1b9a&vxp=mtr Not moog, are these any good? http://www.ebay.com/...0e9a0e6&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...77bcba&vxp=mtr. adjuster; http://www.ebay.com/...602ce3f&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...f1a11f3&vxp=mtr and inner adjusters (4wd) http://www.ebay.com/...5acf397&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...c19e25e&vxp=mtr All these guys ship to NZ. You can also get these local (not sure about the adjuster sleeves), BnT / Autolign 's 555 brand are ok (japanese made) I'm interested in the 4wd ability/durability of this setup, has anyone been out and tried to bust 'em yet?

Nice work. You're going to a live front end then? What's the box out of? It looks like a big sucker. I like the watercooled I/C, I'd go that way if I did it again.

I just used a bit of exhaust tube to extend the filler pipe. The shift and hi-lo levers are fine. Longer power steer hose (as mentioned; pretty sure it's the return, runs straight down from the pump on mine, the others are ok) Don't forget to pull the driveshaft loop, you'll bend the floor otherwise (don't ask how I know) I just refitted it without running it through the bracket on the crossmember (from memory the torsion crossmember), no spacers, no probs. I also loosened off the lower clamp on the steering shaft and slid it right up as far as it would go. And you may need to alter/change the radiator hoses, and pull the lower half of the fan cowl off. I cut my bumper irons and slid them up the same amount I lifted it (2.5")then welded and braced them. I think that's it.....

Whereabouts are ya? I can prolly whip something up for ya...they're pretty simple...

The Terrano is from Japan, in Aussie and NZ they were called Pathfinders like yours.... Make sure ya get the turbo version, the n/a ones are a bit sad in the power department...

The changeover was mid 93 I think, or thereabouts anyway.

I run whatever crap comes out of the tank at work (amsoil I think), with whatever filters we happen to have. I pretty much don't check it between the random oil changes I do when I think it's done enough k's (we pay diesel mileage tax here so the odometer is broken...) It's done around 300k's and still sweet as. You can't kill a Nissan diesel

In the bikes, we run this stuff if overheating is a problem http://engineice.com/

Changing mine on the diesel made a noticeable difference, at least off boost. I dunno the exact figures on one of these, but the common figure quoted on the old chev/ford/holden V8's was around 12hp

There's 3 12mm bolts on the rear of the timing cover (in front of the pump) and a 14mm bolt underneath the pump (on a bracket), just loosen these and the injector pipes and rotate the pump (clockwise from the driver position, or the top of the pump goes outwards). Then tighten it all back up. You may wanna richen it up a bit too, if you haven't already. I turn mine from the alternator, it's easier to get at ....

All good. It's a subaru legacy (liberty) twin turbo unit. I welded up the standard intake holes and welded in the pipe you see in the pics. The front mount welds to the brace for the alternator adjuster, and the rear bolts through the two rear upper exhaust manifold bolts. The pipes steady it. The only thing is I have a 55mm body lift, so if you don't it may sit a little high.

How much camber did it have? I run mine at 1deg negative and have for years, you get a bit of bumpsteer (toe change over bumps) but as a plus it does help the cornering. With the correct amount of toe you won't have wear problems either. The other issue you have is that the bolts are on a slight upward angle and you have to add a sh*tload of shims to correct things, which also puts a lot more strain on the bolts. And the further you go, the more you increase the incline on the upper arm, increasing the camber change drastically with suspension movement. The tie rods DON'T affect caster. At all. These things do loose caster when you jack 'em up due to the angle of the top and lower arm.....the top arm drops toward the front of the vehicle a little, and the lower toward the rear.... but again, I only have around 1/2 deg and have run it this way for many years with no issues. (except the bumpsteer) Potentially yes it could. But I think that any hit with any force will compress the suspension a little first, thus lessening the angle. The biggest issue is the accelerated wear on the crossrod, the joints on the end that hold it flat don't like it. The only other is you will bend the idler if it's not braced. You are right, but as long as you brace the idler (very important with a lift) and can put up with a bit of bumpsteer, it should be fine.

Not a real good idea, propane will detonate before the diesel is injected...it may give more power but is pretty hard on the internals...

I just bored through the roof into the inside light cavity, and fitted a grommet with plenty of sealer. Seems to work fine with no leaks

From memory they are just a standard r-1 type bushing. In this part of the world we just use a nolathane universal bushing ( can't remember the part no sorry) but I'm sure plenty of other companies do something similar. pretty sure this one is the same... http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/ENE98107G.htm or http://www.prothane.com/universal.php?PHPSESSID=1681676c8468ff37b2fb50c4ee50df10 part # 19-903

PS love the thingy that takes all the fskcen @!*% **** etc away

Where to start..... I guess the first thing I did was wind the boost up a few psi, to around 12 from memory. Followed by adjusting the pump for more fuel. A bit of timing advance too helped free 'er up a bit. Removed all the smog @!*%e too, and welded up the pressure relief valve. Threw a K&N in there too. I replaced the back half of the exhaust with a 2 1/2" system after a meeting with a ditch in reverse saw the original pipe tied around the diff. Then a little misshap with some water and 1 bent rod later meant the head came off, so I got stuck in with the grinder....the exhaust ports in particular are horrid in these things. After many hours with the grinder it was all sorted. I also put a skyline intercooler on, and that lovely bonnet scoop. Next on the list was a clutch job, so while it was out a little machining on the ludicrously heavy flywheel they put on these things was in order, roughly 5kg came off (from memory, it may have been more but it was a few years ago now...), and it could easily have handled more. This was one of the best mods I've done so far, improved the response more than you can imagine. Next up was a bit of work on the turbo and intake. The 'tube' that runs from under the gaurd to the airfilter is horribly restrictive, so off it came. I ran the filter open at this stage ( I don't really swim it so no probs with water ) by simply screwing the 'lid' of the filter can to the inner gaurd. The 90 deg elbow that leads into the turbo felt the grinder, as again it's quite badly shaped and bottlenecks down a fair bit in the middle. Then a bit of reshaping inside the turbo itself and a 2 1/2" downpipe and front exhaust finished it off. I ran 15psi with this setup. It stayed like this for a fair while, and went pretty well. One of my mates clocked me in his Subaroo at 180kph like this. (the speedo in the terrano was way off from the bigger tyres) After stealing the intercooler for one of my bikes I destroyed my first turbo by running too much boost trying to equal the intercooled power without it, so one rebuilt and modded turbo later I added a MR2 intercooler and all was well again. I did another clutch too, the stockers have trouble coping with a stock engine, so I found a guy that makes race clutches for all the drift guys over here, and he made me up a carbon/kevlar job with twice the clamping pressure of the original one. Sorted. The old propeller fan was also axed, almost literally as it requires the destruction of the thermo hub thingy to get it off, and an electric jobby was added. Again it stayed in this form 'till around 3 weeks ago. I've been itching to change the exhaust manifold for a fair while now, as it is the worst designed piece of scrapmetal I've seen attached to an engine, so I finally got my @!*% together and did it. As there's not a huge amount of room and I was on a budget I just kept it simple, no topmount or anything....and I also changed the intercooler to a bigger better flowing Subaroo Legacy one. And a new K&N finished the job. Not to mention a new exhaust with a straight through muffler as the old one was pretty rusty and the muffler was a bit shot. This would rate as the second/equal first best mod I've made....full boost from around 1200rpm ( it used to need 2000rpm before) and it even gained 3psi (18now) with no changes to any of the settings. That's pretty much the story as I remember it, tho there may be one or two emissions due to age/alchohol.

Heres a pic of it with the 32's (as it is now) and the engine bay.