sewebster

Would you guys trust junkyard injectors? Two of mine have a resistance that is out of range (25 ohms, should be 10-14) so I figure the injection shop is going to tell me they're dead. Dealer injectors are $214 up here (I think it's like $130 from the US online dealerships). There are some on rockauto as cheap as $40, but the cheapest that actually specifies the blue dot is $100... and that would be slower than the wreckers. I guess depending on the wrecker injector cost I can pay the injection place $35 to clean and test those too...

Like, practically none? Reading the FSM would be a good idea here. There is a detailed procedure. Basically what you are going for is just barely tight enough to eliminate play.

Oh, I have no intentions of mix and matching. I was just curious about how things worked! It seems to me that it must be that the ECUs are matched to the injectors, so people should be careful when replacing ECUs to get one that is appropriate for their vehicle. I probably wouldn't have thought of this before.

So, there seem to be at least two different coloured injectors for the VG30E, black and blue (paint dot colour). And apparently you aren't supposed to mix them up. But why not? It's the same engine, right? The only thing I can think of is that the ECU is programmed to do something specific based on which injectors are provided with the vehicle. But wouldn't this mean you couldn't replace your ECU unless you got the "right" one? I understand that injectors can have different spray patterns, durations, etc., I'm just not sure why they wouldn't all work for the same engine.

Yup torn o-ring. I'm going to take all my injectors to a fuel injection place on Monday because two of them have a different resistance and I want to make sure everything is working properly this time.

Pulled the intake collector off the top... gas was almost up to the top of the lower manifold! It looks like gas is leaking past the o-rings and not leaking out of the injector... which is unfortunate, because I replaced the o-rings a couple weeks ago.

So, seems like my cylinder was so full of fuel that I couldn't start it because the piston just runs into a brick wall of gas. Turned it over by hand and could hear liquid squeezing past the rings instead of gas. Pulled the dipstick and smells like gas. Hooray for injector problems!

I guess the question is whether that blown resistor is the problem, or a symptom of the problem.

They are the only thing holding your front suspension up

Mine are somewhat less white.

You can probably order them at a Nissan dealership, but then I'd be expecting more like $5 per piece, not total.

Ok, that generally sounds reasonable. But when you say "can then weld the bearing race to the frame mount" it seems to me that you'll be welding the race onto the washer you just added, right? My only concern with adding washers is being able to get the nut on the end of the rod. If there isn't enough thread sticking out, you'd have to squash those bushings to get the nut on, and squashing them without using the nut itself is likely hard. Thanks for the 1/16" to 1/8" number... that sounds good.

Not that I'm supporting improper assembly procedures at all, but, you really think that the change in surface finish from new to old and rusty, plus any error in the torque wrench (when was it last calibrated etc.), is only going to be 5%? My impression is that torque is really not a very good way to get to a specified tension, but it's really the only thing convenient, so we use it. There are all kinds of more advanced systems out there (indicating washers etc.) for critical applications... they exist due to this problem, right?

Are you saying you just got rid of the cups altogether? Wouldn't the system lose its centering ability then, meaning there would be nothing to keep the rod in the middle of the hole?

I would guess that most torques give you the wrong tension by more than 11% anyway...

My bet is that they won't fall off.

Compression or leak down test? I have a leak down tester you can borrow in you want to come to Vancouver

How do you know it's not burning oil? I guess just looking at the exhaust? Maybe you were fooled by the dipstick picking up oil from the side of the tube? Don't mean to be insulting, but I've been fooled before...

So if I'm repairing the frame part of things in addition to the rod, there are basically three pieces, the frame and the two "cups" that are welded on. In the other threads the cups have been successfully replaced with bearing races... so have you additionally welded washers onto the frame "inside" the races or what? Maybe with the races in good condition that is enough?

Hmm. DIsmantled mine last night and the pins were seized to the bushings, so the pin had been rotating in the bracket that attaches to the truck, enlarging that hole. I think just replacing the parts wouldn't be the best fix, because the teeth on the shoulder of the pin probably wouldn't last long in the bigger hole and I'd be back to the same problem. Also, since I used an oxy-acetylene torch to blast out the pins, there was some collateral damage I guess I'll see how much those brackets cost... Otherwise possibly just put it together and then just weld the pins top and bottom to the bracket so the carrier is forced to rotate on the bushings. Only problem I see with this is inability to grease until after the welding, which means greasing through the hole. So maybe installing a proper fitting is required.

Hehe, yeah, that's pretty much what I ended up doing Unfortunately one of the compression rods itself has been eaten away so I guess I should replace it. It's probably got about 50% to 75% material remaining in the middle... the hole is undoubtably bigger than it should be too, but I'm not sure how much that matters...

Got one side done today before I ran out of time. Cracking off the two bolts was tough, but the 3/4" drive ratchet came to the rescue. I realized I didn't have a 24 mm wrench, but 15/16 worked great (23.8 mm) on the end nut. Not entirely sure how I can torque that to 100 ft-lbs properly without a crow's foot socket, but maybe I can just go till the same number of threads are sticking out the end (11 in my case). Or go by feel. Thanks for the tips. Probably the other side will go by pretty fast now that I know what I'm doing. I also got the two rear sway bar end links replaced, those were more annoying due to the restricted working conditions, but the angle grinder helped me defeat them

So to peen over the other end of the pin I rest it against a hard surface (the fat end of the pin) and then wail away?

I'm talking about the big bushings that can cause the death wobble (thankfully mine aren't bad yet). Should I loosen everything while it's on the ground and then put it on a jack stand and use the jack on the lower control arm? No jacking at all? Jack it at the start? I read the death wobble thread again and it wasn't entirely clear. I saw some other recent discussion of how to do it easily, but I can't find it right now.... Thanks.

02 FSM says at 14 psi at idle and 43 psi at 2000 rpm.