sewebster

My reverse switch and 4wd switch are also busted. Haven't been able to crack them off the transmission with it installed, but it needs to be rebuilt or replaced anyway, so I'll do it then.

If either the front diff or transmission was rotate while the front shaft was out then there would be more than 4 positions to try. I think there are a total of 64 possible combinations.

Or you could do like I did and dump a TON of money into it and end up with a truck that still needs more work You'd probably learn a lot at least

There is a wide variety of master cylinders available on RockAuto for under $100. That's probably the route I would go, but I don't much experience with master cylinders.

Well, $330 at a local dealership and $170 at a cheap "real" dealership sounds normal to me. Then you have much lower prices if you want to go aftermarket. I probably wouldn't buy aftermarket if I could get one from the dealer for $10 more... but this is a bit of a generalization.

Take the timing belt off and put it back on properly... Counting the teeth is the way to go. Do it a couple times (numbers are in the FSM)

Be careful with the new o-rings when installing... I tore one when replacing an injector and my problem got a lot worse Some people recommended that I use a castor-oil based rubber grease, but I ended up using, uh, some astroglide

The oil pan is thin-ish steel.

Since the lifters are made of metal, I guess some of us aren't sure why the sound being "metallic" rules them out, but I'll take your word for it that it is different. I guess the throttle plate is sorta "inside" the intake. There are also the AAC and air regulator valves at the rear driver's side... other than that... nothing is coming to mind.

Be careful not to scratch the plastic...

My guess would be lifter noise from the driver's side, but you seem to not think that is it. There isn't really too much moving around in the upper intake manifold (and nothing at all in the lower). What Psyco is talking about kinda sounds like the EGR valve to me and it wouldn't make a sound like this...

If it only happened once I might not worry about it until it happened again. There are some things in life that just don't make much sense.

Could be. I haven't replaced the large, uh, trailing arm, bushings at the back (hoping not to for a while...).

You definitely don't need to get adjustable ones, in fact, it would be hard to get some that actually worked with the oem system. I am not a shock expert, but generally the shocks don't care what part of their range they are sitting in, as long as they don't reach the limit of travel during suspension motion. I guess that probably isn't super helpful. I know that some shock manufacturers list acceptable lift ranges for their stuff. I think when I got some cheap rancho (5000 series?) they said they were good to 2.5 or 3" I think. I have only 1" lift so it's pretty much irrelevant and I think any shock would work for me. These rancho ones seem fine, probably a bit stiff (could be good or bad depending on your preference).

I would possibly be interested in WD21 skids too.

Sorry for being ignorant, but what caused the flooding after the quake?

Hmm, I wonder. I just fixed the hinge rattling sound, but maybe now I can just hear a squeak now that it doesn't rattle so loudly. Good idea. Thanks.

Anyone have a stock torque/power curve for a vg30e? Most of the stuff I see online is for modded or turbo etc versions.

My truck squeaks. Like just driving around town, going over little ripples in the road, it squeaks from the rear-ish area. Haven't had a chance to have a passenger try to zero-in on the sound yet, but any ideas? A lot of the suspension has already been re-done, but not the springs. Maybe that is it? Or possibly where the body mounts to the frame... I assume there are some rubber spacers in there?

I'm no expert with the check engine light and trouble codes, but unfortunately it seems that sometimes despite bad sensor readings you don't get a trouble code. Maybe someone else will have more info on this. It does sound somewhat annoying and against the point of the whole trouble code system. Though, now that I think about it, I thought that the check engine light essentially meant that you had a trouble code, so I'm confused

When you first start up the engine ignores all the sensor readings from the engine etc. After warming up it starts using those to control fuel mixture etc. So perhaps you have a dead sensor. Ideas that come to mind: O2 sensor, MAF, coolant temp (not the one for the gauge on the dash), knock sensor...

You might want to replace most of those hoses while you've got it apart. The dealer can likely order ones that will fit properly, for a bit of a premium.

Yeah, I just meant rusty water dripping out, but seems that's not it. I guess there could be some other ways of getting coolant into the exhaust... cracked block or head, blown intake gasket I guess since there are coolant channels there too... I don't think replacing head gaskets is really that big of a deal... but I mean, it is definitely a bunch of work if you haven't done it before...

Can you return it as defective?

I wouldn't recommend that installation technique for when you find a new cap either Lubricate the o-rings and slowly push the injector in while slightly twisting back and forth. I was able to get a new fuel rail at the wreckers that came with those caps...