HitMan

well this is a late response to this thread, but the problem still seems to persist. This problem only seems to occur in extreme cold situations, like 20's or less outside and after the car has been running for some time. It's never immediate. Since this post I have had the MAF replaced as well due to other issues, which seemed to eliminate the problem until recently again. Sure enough I have had the code pop back up on me. One thing I have noticed was I was low on coolant, so the truck couldn't fully heat up to that mid position, it would always stay just below on the indicator needle. The o2 sensor was replaced and the wires are all connected properly and not frayed. I am thinking now that it truely is the cat which I don't want to replace. Any other thoughts on this?

I currently run MD front and rear with KYB-GR2 fronts and OME rears. I have steel pro-comps with 4.5" backspacing running 30" BFG all-terrains. I absolutely love the lift and the extra height it gives. Much stiffer than OEM and the extra ride height helps with towing a heavy load. Never once heard a pop. The truck currently has 180K+ on it. Highly recommend the lift. Best stock picture I could find: After lift: Fully cleaned:

So I went to Nissan finally to do the strut tower recall and Nissan of course found 20 other things that they wanted me to throw money at them to replace. I knew I needed new brake pads, but apparently they also said my rotors are so warn that they can't even resurface them. So, instead of paying them over $500 to do it, I thought I would do it myself. I was just wondering if anyone knew of some excellent rotors and pads they would recommend to use. I was just looking at Autozone and advance auto for pads and rotors. I'm not too familiar with which parts people have used before and would suggest?

So I noticed that my rear diff looked like it was sweating so I went to check to see if it was leaking anywhere and notice this little tube out of the top that I just never noticed before. Does anyone know what it is for, or am i missing a tube that should be going somewhere? Is it a breather tube?

Good to know. I actually just got it, so I'm still learning the differences between the two

So I was wondering how many miles people have gone on their original timing belt. I know Nissan suggests it to be changed every 100k, but i know that's not always the case. My '04 is at 106k with the original still. I had my '96 changed at 110k and am almost at the 200k mark again so it looks like i need to do them both at the same time. Anyone gone any further? Timing belts are such a pain to replace so I might just pay to have it done.

I'm outside of Novi. Thanks for the help. I'm gonna go ahead and order some bulbs. Is it just as easy to replace the dash bulbs while I'm at it?

what color bulb did you guys use? I like the blue tent look. Should I get the light blue or dark blue?

yeah I didn't even think about taking the front off. I just assumed it would be behind. Where did you get those bulbs? They look awesome by the way. helps get rid of the 90's look. Do the knobs just snap off as well? I went through all the pictures but some comments would be nice of the process. Where could I get some bulbs like that?

It's a manual control. I did take it apart, but it seems the light and individual controller are one piece. So the controller just un-screws off? I didn't want to break it so I just put it back together for another day to look at.

Anyone ever have this problem? The blower controller has the light out. I took it apart thinking it would just need a new bulb but it seems to be all one piece. Anyone ever replace the light?

Mine still has "stock" 30" all terrains and still looks good. Soon to have 32" once the tread wears out on these. Didn't want to waist money when I have perfectly good tires still on it.

Yup same problem. It's kinda annoying to listen to, but the only way to get rid of it is to remove it...

Me and the 5x8 Uhaul have been pretty good friends. I've driven it fully loaded with my whole apartment in the trunk/roof/trailer going through the mountains and never had a problem. I always kept the od on or I would have had to stop for gas every 10 miles. But to get it up and over the hills going 60+mph got into the 4k plus rpms. But, she ran great and made it every time. I even once drove pulling a 5x8 900+ miles straight in one day. That was a long day but I was always crusin at 70 and never had a problem. The knock sensor is known to have some issues if you haven't already replaced it when pulling a load. I have replaced mine,so I haven't seen a single problem since the replacement.

it's looking pretty awesome, although I must say I'm pretty biased...

+1 You will definitely need to do an alignment unless you want to seriously kill your tires.

Just finished installing mine and man what a difference! It is really smooth and no more squeaks and rattles of the old struts and shocks. It's firm but forgiving at the same time. Helps the truck sit up nice and really improves the ride. I wouldn't trade it for anything right now.

I have that same brush guard on mine and mines a 96. Whether it fits a 00-04 i'm not sure. Mine is steel and has a few rust spots and has actually saved the whole front end of my truck during an accident. I noticed a difference in it seeming to weigh down the front a little after I first put it on, but it is an insignificant difference in comparison to the new look it gives. I only paid around $150 for mine used.

So I couldn't figure it out, so I took it to a shop and they found that one of the wires from the wiring harness to the MAF was frayed so it was shorting out and causing the truck to stall. It's getting re-wired and is all set. Weird problem that I would have prob. never saw myself. Its much cheaper than a fuel pump...

no check engine light and I actually removed the distributor cap to make sure it looked right. No problems I could tell. I let the truck cool down and started it up again. It ran for about a minute and then cut out again. It has to be the fuel pump or a clog in the line. I'll check it more in the morning when I have some real light.

Really, would have never thought that. It runs smoothly and it doesn't sound like a miss fire? I also thought that if the fuel pump was dying the fuel gauge was the first to go? Am I wrong in saying that. Mine still reads fine.

So I was driving today in heavy traffic in the DC area (anyone who lives there knows what I'm talking about) and had been driving for about 3 hours that morning and was back in the truck for another hour and a half sitting in bumper to bumper traffic inching home and it just cut out. I have no idea how or why it did. It would start back up and then cut back out in a few seconds. Temp was fine, had 3/4 tank of gas. So being stuck in the middle of traffic I opened the hood to see what was up and everything looked exactly fine. I'm thinking the fuel pump is dying. I ended up starting it up and having to keep it reved up in neutral and shift to drive and then shift back to neutral to rev it up again so it wouldn't die. Once i got going again it was fine driving and then it cut out again when I slowed down to turn. Any other ideas of whats going on other than the fuel pump? I replaced the fuel filter 6 months ago. Thanks.

So the girlfriend came over today to clean her truck and I took advantage of it and took her rack off and see if it fit on mine. And.. it did, really easy to do in fact. I just had to take the end caps off the rails and took the cross bars off. Then I went over and took the 04 rack off. It is just 8 torque bolts that are mounted two in each corner of the roof. You just pop the plastic covers off each corner and remove the bolts and pull the whole thing off as one piece. Then it mounts in the same existing holes that are on my 96 roof already. So, the R50 roof is standard from 96-04 and all the parts can be interchangeable if you want them too be. I asked if the girlfriend wanted to switch roof racks for awhile and she said heck no, mine is a million times better haha. Here are some pics let me know what you think. Here are the end caps and cross bars from the 96: Here is what it looks like on mine: The naked 04: And back to normal again:

So I was wondering if anyone has attempted or knows if you can swap stock roof racks on the R50? I have a 96 and I know that from 96-99 it just has the two tracks with sliding bars that move up and down the roof. The 99.5-01 I think? have the second style with sliding bars, and then the 02-04 have the roof cage almost that has the decals on the side that say pathfinder. So, I was wondering if anyone knew if they were interchangeable or not. I'm assuming not...but I guess someone on here would know better. I was just thinking about it and my girlfriend has an 04 R50 with the cage, so I am going to check her's tomorrow to see where the mounting points are compared to mine.