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Everything posted by piste

  1. r u still selling front plates?..disregard...found your website.
  2. My 1997 SE offroad got the fender cancer bad!! The rear driver side got so bad the fendor flare fell off. Both rear sides need fixed...I can't do that kind of work but have a shop who gave me a good price IF I can find some quarter panel skins for them to work with. Can anyone point me to a source online? I don't have time to ferret around the local pickapart yard. Summit racing carries some but not for a 97 Pathfinder. I am original owner and it is mechanically strong....I need to get 3 more years out of her. Thoughts? Posted here as this was the only thread that came up in a search.....and is spot on with my same issue...
  3. Thanks guys. Rob's place has been my "go to" for years. Wasn't sure he was still there as last few times I call in for part help I don't end up getting him. Next time I will ask. Sorry for any confusion on the damper. I am not referring to the damper on the firewall which I have much experience with....several years ago I chased clutch hydraulic problems for a long long time..swapping out master and slave several times (see sep thread on here a few years back) stumping several dealers...and I was the one..with help from NPORA who honed in on that hydraulic damper...which I had replaced and ended that issue. the part i am inquiring about on this thread is #6 in the diagram I am pasting here...hope the picture shows up. part number is in post above. This part is shown down near the tranny mount. Thanks for the suggestion on the flywheel bolts...and I have a new question on the flywheel...do these flywheels have an integral ring gear? And if not I guess I should get and throw in a new ring gear while I am at it?? As opposed to pay my shop to transfer the old one?? I don't have any starting issues....but not something I want to pull the clutch apart again in the future for. As for going through clutches quickly....the first change after 70K miles I believe I remember it started slipping...was replaced by a dealer....and that second one had a catastrophic failure after 50K miles..very short life IMO...on the freeway with a big "clunk" but I was able to nurse it to the dealer. This third one I have in has been barking for a long time when I let the clutch back in after shifting....doesn't do it always..but fairly loud when it does. AND I believe I am feeling it starting to slip ever so slightly. If it weren't barking I'd probably leave it be...but I am just having a "Spidey sense" that it is getting near time. And figure it probably won't last as long as I want to keep the Pathy...and if that is true...even if I put one in now it will last as long as I ever want to keep it....probably another 6-8 years at the outside. While I am competent with driving with a clutch...I am guilty of downshifting sometimes...which I should perhaps stop being as brakes are cheaper than clutches!! Thanks!!
  4. I am thinking about being a bit pro-active with maintenance and have my clutch redone though it has not failed. I am original owner of my 97 SE....original clutch failed in 2003 after <6 years and at about 70K miles....second lasted only about 4.5 years and only 50K miles....and current one has just short of 8 years on it and estimated 70K or so miles (had to extrapolate as odo died at 133K miles). Current one as been "barking" for years now and by my past experience its days must be numbered. I wanna keep the Pathy for another indefinite number of years so figure why not do the clutch now which will likely be the last clutch for it. I know all the usual parts to do...pressure plate...release bearing, disc, pilot bearing...and also rear main seal. Also gonna bite the bullet and replace the flywheel while in there and figure on doing the transmission mount....engine mounts already done recently. My questions are....there is something called a "damper"....part info below...would I prudent to replace this damper as well for about $67?? Same question on the replacing the original release fork for $37? I welcome any and all opinions. FWIW ...have a local garage doing the work....and my philosophy is to try to get the most bang for my labor buck. Last thing I ever wanna do is have to re-open this clutch. DAMPER: Fits 1997 Nissan Pathfinder SE Part Number: 113751W300 Damper TO 1/00, 4WD, manual trans PARTS: Order by application.
  5. In 1997 I had to wait for my SE manual to come from japan. Still have it....but honestly I don't track mileage etc so might not be much help to you. My first clutch went earlier than I expected....I think it was like 2004 or so...and the replacement one has been "barking" for about 6 years but still performs like a champ! But just so i don't get stranded some day...will probably do the clutch and new flywheel in next 12 months or so. Just did timing belt and knock sensor. In our minivan...I am good with an AT...but in my PAthy...I like having the stick. I gotta believe it gives me a bit more power too over an AT. 18 years this August and I love it as much as the day I took it home. Oh....I should add as someone mentioned above....the rear LSD is a total joke....at least mine is. Even with BFG All Terrains I can get both wheels spinning...in the rain! My guess is the Pathy needed more weight in the rear.
  6. Thank you again for the informative replies. Just had both jobs done this weekend. A few things that might help others.... turns out water pump pulley had some play in it...so folks might want to consider adding that in when doing T-belt job. Not a ton of money. Ordering mine now and replacing after the fact...not hard to do....and don't want the current wobbly one to premature wear the water pump. There are THREE water hoses..theres the upper...and.the lower one goes into a metal tube which then connects to another hose going into the engine. I missed that one and will just roll the dice with keeping existing one in place....which doesn't look in TOO bad shape. Overall....garage charged me about $600 for t-belt....I provided all parts....and about $600 for the knock sensor....also I provided the OEM sensor...along with gaskets etc. Money well spent for me. Water pump housing bolts were frozen and had to be drilled out...I let them have that sort of fun.
  7. Two great replies. Thank you. Regarding the timing belt job....yeah I'm pretty much a straight OEM parts kinda guy. Below is my shopping list for the timing belt job. Mind letting me know if anything I missed....or could/should drop anything? Is the crankshaft pulley necessary?? Did it in 2006 with last t-belt job...but dropping it would save some decent $$$$ thx again. 21010-0W028 water pump 21014-0W028 water pump gasket 13028-0B785 timing belt 13070-42L00 timing belt tensioner 13042-0B001 camshaft seals 2 13510-10Y10 crankshaft seal 21200-V7206 thermostat 21082-0w000 coupling (aka fan clutch...new #21082-0W00A) 21503-0W001 radiator hose lower 14055-0w010 hose-water 14055-0W000 coolant bypass hose? Is this same as one above? Redundant? 14055-0W??? small hose to thermostat 11720-R50001 Belt - Fan and Alternator 11920-R50001 Belt Compressor 02117-R50001 Belt - Power steering 21501-0W501 radiator hose uppper 12303-0W001 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY - Is this needed??
  8. Original owner of '97 SE here....So I am due for a timing belt job and am getting sporadic knock sensor codes. Have a local garage I have used for years who always do right by me. I believe the knock sensor job is pricey and am hoping to hold off on it....doesn't really hurt much except maybe fuel efficiency AFAIK. However, if there is significant common labor that I can save some $$$ on to have knock senseor done along with the timing belt I would like to do that. I do a lot of work myself but not jobs like those...and am figuring there is little if any common labor as timing belt is in front and knock sensor come in from the top. Figured I'd check with the experts. Thoughts anyone? Measure-able savings by combining these jobs? Or no?
  9. Greetings all...been a while. So my motor mounts are knocking like crazy. I'm going to get some new ones and have my local mechanic put them in. My question is this....in terms of economizing on the labor involved...should I do the tranny mount at the same time? Or maybe save the tranny mount for when my long barking clutch finally decides to give up the ghost and do it then ...possibly saving on labor. I don't know enough about the work to determine this. And honestly for all I know the tranny mount is knocking now too...so am I best to bite the bullet and do them all now at the same time? ETA...it's in my profile but fyi in case it matters...shouldn't...'97 SE..original owner.
  10. Yeah..nothing new here. They are a total d-bag organization which very strange for an enthusiast thing like wheeling. Just pray you don't have to deal with F-Dick in "customer diservice". I m orig owner of my 97 which i've built up nicely. But i'll torch it before i give them another nickel of mine. Was i unclear on anything? :-)
  11. So...I've been eyeing a Missing Link myself from Jacson Autosports for many months now....finally got off my butt and picked up the phone to call them today. Bad news. They are out of them...and can't make them at the $40 price point without at least 10 orders. Was wondering what the interest level is out there and maybe get lucky and see if there are 9 of you out there who might want to order one? I do not intend to hijack the thread...but being as it's exactly about what ennacac posted about...thought I'd avoid creating a separate thread.....but happy to do so if more appropriate. Whaddya say guys? Any takers?
  12. Put in Mobil 1 a few yrs back...and lsd additive. Haven't checked level in a while..will look for leakage tonight. But this past winter backing out my driveway which is uphill to get out...driver side didnt spin at all while drive tire was spinning like crazy. Is it even possible for an lsd to lock up? Can the plates fuse or something? Iirc what i'm observing is called wheel hop? Maybe it's my pathy's way of telling me it wants me to put in an ARB air locker? :-)
  13. Only thing in the suspension i've NOT replaced in last three years are springs and my OME medium loads arrive today. Otherwise ..all links have 4x4parts poly bushings as does panhard rod. Sway links are a few yrs old as are sway bar bushings. It is a "only on 90 degree right turns around city street corners" phenomenon. IIRC..i thought this happens with like a locked diff...?
  14. My 97 SE has an lsd that as far as i know is acting like an open diff...likely the plates are worn? Anyway...i often notice a pretty good thunk coming from i believe the rear end on right turns. I feel i once knew what would cause this...but memory goes when getting old. Anyone know what causes this?
  15. Related question...assuming an LSD is functioning properly...should it be limiting slip in reverse as well as forward? I would think yes...but the lsd in my 97se does nothing when i back out my driveway which is uphill to the street. Drivers side tire doesnt spin at all while other side is a pinwheel... So mine may be shot after some 150k miles or so.
  16. I am the original owner of my 97 se with the Bose single cd unit and have the identical problem as the OP....for a few years now. Fortunately with two young kids and many life demands...my commute time in my Pathy is now my quiet time...so the radio is mostly off and have just lived with it...though would welcome a reasonably economic solution. On several occasions ive had to shut it off for fear of blowing the speakers... FWIW...i have found that i sometimes get better control if i put slight inward pressure on the volume knob while turning.
  17. I have one that uses u bolts...limits how much slip can occur. Check out Advance Auto....Autucraft branded ones.
  18. My 97 had a clutch problem that was very peculiar....after several years and numerous diagnosis it was replacing the clutch damper that finally fixed it. It's chronicled in a thread here that I believe is now at least a few years old...search "damper" and it should come up...if interested.
  19. andreus009, What does use of 4x4 have an impact on,,,in terms of wear or degradation...given the front axles are turning all the time anyway? In any event....I basically never "wheel"...just use 4wd a handful of times in the snow in winter to go skiing. I'm Not hearing any noise whatsoever...the boot(s) that are torn are basically just a circumferential tear around the collar. So as far as I know..little opportunity for dirt to get in.....no reason to think there are any issues with the CVs themselves....all I need/plan to do is get the boot kits and replace those...greasing etc. My mechanic's logic was....for about the same cost of pulling the axles and labor to replacing all the boots....given a "possibility" of contamination of the CVs why not just pull the axles and throw in reman'ed axles that are obviously already assembled (ie. no labor to replace boots). BTW...if i do just the boots....I'm gonna do all four for sure....whilst also repacking bearings, and replacing rotors/pads....original '97 rotors BTW...about 150K miles on em.
  20. Awesome. That's exactly what I was trying to determine. Obviously the other two attachment points are straightforward in terms of procedure to disconnecting them...not necessarily easy with frozen bolts and all...but simple in concept...but I wasn't sure procedurally if I could get the ball joint off the knuckle w/o pulling the axle. so it looks like get the three nuts off and pickle fork it or something. Thanks.
  21. At least one CV boot is torn on my '97SE...they are likely all due for some TLC. My local garage guy...who is usually spot on and reliable...suggests that since the job requires pulling the axles that I'd be "better off" just replacing the entire thing with remanufactured axle sets. In part he's wondering about the condition of the 15 year old axles. I dunno...I'm thinking I should keep my Nissan axles and just do a boot repair job even though net cost will end up likely the same. Reason I'm leaning toward this is that I'm thinking Nissan OEM axles HAVE to be a lot more stout than an aftermarket reman one. no? I have no reason to believe there are any issues or problems with my current axles. So ...question is...do a CV boot repair job or replace with reman'ed axles...assuming cost is the same for each job.??? Thoughts?
  22. Anybody? I would have thought SOMEBODY would know the answer. Does the axle need to come out to get the front LCA off? It looks like the axle would have to come out to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. no?
  23. After 15 years of loving service it seems the bushings in my front lower control arms are toast. They are rattling quite a bit. I'm wanting to pull them off and press in poly ones from 4x4 parts.com. Can anyone tell me if I can get the control arms off without pulling the axle? It would seem that I can remove the three nuts holding the ball joint to the control arm and have enough clearance to the axle/CV to pull ball joint bolts out and disconnect there and get the control arm off. This of course also requires removing bolts holding control arm to that center member. This way I can take the contorl arm to my press and remove the old bushings and use my press to get the new ones in. Just trying to plan this project and appreciate any input.
  24. Last winter I notice my rear def had a few lines that weren't working...so I picked up this kit to fix it.. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321796650&sr=8-1 Can't say how well the kit works cuz before I could get around to that project I awoke one morning with a rock through my rear window....solved my defroster repair problem anyway...

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