pathfounder

I can't speak for R50s, but with all of the other RWD/4WD vehicles I've pulled engines from, it's actually easier to pull the engine with the transmission than to disconnect them and leave it in the car.

Glad to hear it worked out for you. I'm also glad to hear that it wasn't vandalized while you were gone. Happens pretty often when vehicles are abandoned like that.

Always in the same place. Right side, facing backward toward the flywheel. The idea is to hit the solenoid to free it. I've never heard of hitting the starter itself accomplishing anything.

Run to failure.

In other words, camber bolts affect camber.

I'm going to ignore your replies in this thread and start from the beginning, because I'm just that nice of a guy. Here it is: -The bolts do not affect articulation. -Use as many camber bolts as you need to get proper camber. 0, 1, or 2. -The "weird angle" of the tires is normal, and a big reason why strut suspensions are just not that good. -Alignment should be performed with the vehicle at rest, with all weight on the tires. If it's being done any other way, never, ever go back to that shop. It sounds like you're either getting ripped off, or the shop worker(s) are a special kind of stupid, or both.

It looks like there is a ring of corrosion marking where a big washer/spacer would go.

To adjust the camber? Do you know the answer to your own question?

The flat spots are for you to put a wrench on to prevent them from spinning. You should be able to tighten them properly. From the pic, the driver's side nut looks like a piece of crap from a hardware store.

I believe you, but I am pretty surprised. Either the new MAF is no better, or you have a different problem. Other possibilities include a bad injector, weak ignition (cap and rotor, wires, plugs) low fuel pressure, or another sensor is acting up (o2 maybe). You'd have to do a full diagnostic to see what's really going on without just pumping money into it. Again, I'm surprised the MAF didn't help.

The ball joints provide all of the flexibility. The bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle can not, and should not provide ANY motion of any kind. Must be rigid.

I wouldn't do that. The code means "circuit malfunction", so check for damage to the wiring from the connector to the ECU itself. It would suck to replace another sensor only to find that some solder and electrical tape is all that you need to do. After that, I would suspect that the front sensor on that side is bad, or the new rear sensor is bad, or the cat is shot, despite being new. Bank 1 is the passenger side.

Learn something new every day.

I reset the KS code on my ECU many times with my code reader, and it would always come back. I did the resistor fix for a few months, and it worked, but one day I did a full ECU reset (24 hrs with no power to it), and I got bad engine knock, which would not go away until I replaced the KS for real. What I am getting at is sometimes clearing a code and a full reset can have different results. If you have the time, leave the negative cable on the battery disconnected for a day, or at least overnight.

Left side versus Right side is based on cylinder numbering. VG33 = #1 on right. Therefore, Bank 1 sensor 2 is the rear on the right side / USA passenger side of the vehicle. The rear sensors only affect fuel trim by 1-2%, but that would be a failure code during an E-test.

If the connector lengths permit, try swapping left side for right side, and see if the code changes.

I have no doubt that many/most people can get away with a lift, even a high lift like the OP has, and not have u-joint issues. That does not, in any way at all, change the fact that lifting the truck without dealing with the drivetrain setup is going to shorten its life. There is a reason why there is an entire aftermarket specializing in connecting the ass end of the transfer case to the differential. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml

Give me a break.

Those components are completely shot. I have THIS and am happy with it, though I had to modify the flange that goes to the rear muffler.

It depends on the height of the lift, how much it's driven, and how hard it's driven.

New u-joints will solve the problem, but they will wear out prematurely again. If they are driven long enough, the vibration will affect the bearings in the rear end and transfer case. The vibration comes from the fact that the rear and the transfer case are no longer parallel because of the lift. U-joints do not have a constant speed as they rotate. The only solution is to use a double Cardan joint. A truck shop could modify your driveshaft to accept one.

You probably should not have done that without someone to keep their foot on the actual brake. Also, it's not a very good test. One thing you can do to help narrow it down is to drive fast in a safe place, and throw it into neutral. If the vibration disappears completely, it's going to be either the u-joints, or part of the engine/trans/transfer case combo. If the vibration remains the same, it's wheels or bearings etc. If the vibration is a bit less, it could still be u-joints. The pinion shaft in the rear end and the driveline (axis of the transmission output shaft) must be parallel. With your lift, there is no way that is still true, unless you have custom or adjustable length links, which I doubt. Your options for solving this are to either go get new links which you can adjust, or buy a double cardan joint, or try to drop the driveline itself to get it closer to being parallel to the pinion. I think you have three choices here: 1) replace the u-joints and do the trip. 2) run the current ones to failure. 3) Drive something else and use the Pathfinder for nothing but 4x4ing from here on out, and tolerate all of the problems and such that will come of it. I don't mean for any of this to sound rude. I am offering advice that I think makes sense in this situation, even if it's not very positive.

It's going to be messy, and yes, a faulty sensor is going to cause problems.

I don't remember. I started reeling it up, and it caught on something, along with the trailer hitch. It wasn't even close though: not going to happen. I threw it in the trunk for now.

I couldn't even barely get my 31x10.5 properly mounted down there.