pathfounder

Agreed. Plastic is a s****y material, but it is adequate, so if you are having that failure mode often, you might have a bigger problem...

I think it is going to be tough to isolate this one because all of the possibilities are things that rotate together (such as the transmission output shaft and the pinion shaft). You could put the rear on axle stands and apply the parking brake somewhat to add resistance and then try to locate the vibration. A stethoscope would probably be a good thing to get for this. Is it possible that you just lost a wheel weight?

A 2.75" ride height change along with whatever your dad did is probably all it took to trash the bearings at the rear of the transmission and/or the pinion bearings in the rear end. Bushing looks fine.

Direction would not matter, but orientation (clock) does of course. I would install them with the nuts trailing, to tell myself that they are being kept a tiny bit cleaner.

The need for camber bolts depends entirely on the height of the lift. The upper ball joint is fixed. It is bolted to the chassis. The lower one is on a control arm, so when it moves up and down, it also moves inboard and outboard. When you lift the truck, you are moving the LBJ inboard, which increases the camber. So, you use camber bolts to undo the change. The more the LCA moved the LBJ inboard (the higher the lift), then the more out of whack the camber will be. EDIT: It's possible that the struts themselves have offset holes to make up the difference.

You must be getting a gallon to the mile. It's either not in 4th, or the converter clutch is never engaging, or you have couch casters for wheels.

The only ones that make sense to me is distance over fuel volume. The L/100km thing is just silly. 5L/100km = amazing. 10L/100km = poor. You have to get into decimals to compare minor differences. Also, it is a "less is more" kind of thing which doesn't make sense to me in this case.

The VG33 is: Reliable Physically small Lightweight (for what it is) Reliable (again) The VG33 is not: Quiet Torquey Powerful Refined Simple to repair We probably need around 90 horse to do 65mph and still be able to do anything like go up a hill or accelerate. At 2000 RPM, I think the VG33 is only good for about 75.

I removed them recently, and I'm glad I did. I took them off to repair the rocker panels, and noted how much better it looked in doing so. Gold is super tacky. To the guy that asked, no, these tires NEVER rub.

I don't think the 3.3 V6 has the balls to pull it along at 65mph @ 2000rpm.

They fill the wells quite nicely.

Mine didn't fit.

I can't run a full size spare because it doesn't fit underneath (and it's only a 31"). I would rotate it in, but only as a rear tire where there won't be any camber wear.

I don't know the answer directly, but I'd be pretty surprised if it was "yes". LSD are more expensive to make than an open diff, and 99.9% of the population wouldn't know they had one in their vehicle. Most vehicles don't even come with it as an option, so I doubt Nissan would put them in every one. Of course, I could be wrong.

If it doesn't say "LSD" or something along those lines right on the bottle, avoid. "Synthetic" is not the same thing.

The pump is run by the input shaft, so yeah, the engine must be running. Anything that comes out with the engine not running is just leaking out, really.

The OD button is just a way of keeping it out of 4th gear. It also appears to change the shift points to be a bit higher. The whole point of this feature is for towing. I can't think of any other situation where you would want to stay out of 4th gear. I suppose if you had big tires and it hunted a lot in town at medium speeds, then you'd want to turn off OD. Other than that, it should be enabled all the time.

9.3mpg out of the VQ is horrible.

Are you going to buy from Amazon.com? I would think that shipping to საქართველო is very expensive.

We should never let the engine idle much below normal. There is not enough oil pressure down there.

It is going to be the Idle Air control. It is probably not working and in the closed position.

By "won't start", what do you mean? Does it just do nothing, or turn but never catch?

The 3.3 isn't any better. A big SUV with a truck-like drivetrain will never be good on gas. Buy another vehicle for DD needs if mileage is an issue.

It would be pretty easy to measure the deflection down there, if you had the spare time. I doubt it is significant.

I could only get mine tight enough by using a punch and a hammer. Make sure that they're not too tight. If it gets hot after driving, it's too tight (and probably too late; replace in this case).