Acey

He can probably get away just with the strut bearing. Being an 02, I don't think that the rubber had time to deteriorate like my 96. See if you can get each of the three bolts moving there at where the strut mounts bolts to the body. Loosen only one at a time and tighten it back down to see if there is an issue. If everything is cool, just get the strut bearing.

A KYB kit that had the mount, bearing and bumper together. SM5329 KYB Strut Mount kit. I had to carve out one end on the bumper as the end had a slightly smaller diameter. That was on my 96. The Eccentric bolt or what is known as a camber kit has an oval shaft, allowing it to shift the camber angle up to 2 degrees to straighten the tire out to the road. Here is a link to what they look like. http://www.strippermotorsports.com/inadcakiecbo2.html The strut brackets may be a nissan only part but I'm not sure.

I just did mine so here's what I would have changed. Lower rubber spring seat strut mount strut bearing strut bumper Hopefully nothing is siezed up top or you may need strut brackets. I needed an eccentric bolt (camber kit) on one side at alignment but I have spacers.

Here's a pic of mine. I have OME HDs with a Prado 3/4" spacer up front. ACs in the rear. Right now I have KYBs front and rear. I'll take another pic in a month or so when everything levels out. A special thanks to XPLORx4 (Dean) for all his help.

Here is my basslink in the back my pathy. It has a built in 200W RMS amp. I still haven't finished mounting my other amp.

I think they are 7". They should fit fine on the stock rim. They fit on my chromies fine. Just make sure to test fit the front first to make sure you clear the strut perch.

When it comes to those 6.5s, a baffle will help a little but probably won't the results you want. A door panel isn't a tuned enclosure. 2nd is that road noise is pretty high at low frequencies and your bass response has to overcome that. Those mini subs will help some but I've never had one. I made a small sacrifice with an Infinity Basslink, probably the biggest punch out of a small enclosure due to it's small passive radiator design. It can mount to the side and you still have full access to the stow area in the back.

I'd suggest some 15"x7" with a 4.5" backspacing. Something like these. http://www.4wheelparts.com/PDT63875.aspx Should give you decent strut pearch clearance and keep them from sticking out too far. I'm running 15x8 with the 3.5 bs and they stick out about 1 1/2". most 31"s fit on the stock chromies supposedly.

My source of the squeal was a dry inner hub grease seal.

I'm going with AC in the rear and OME HDs with a 3/4 spacer up front. Won't have pics for a little while as i'm going after bushings and hardware and need to save up a few more $. I didn't like the concept of topping out over speed bumps so this is the route I chose.

Your dealership sucks. The list price on them is $140 each. Pinnacle has them for around $109 each.

Man, prices sure have gone up. I aquired mine of ebay for $60 plus shipping.

an extra 110 watts on the charging system is no problem, unless you have a big stereo in there too.

Thanks for the tip on the amazon hubs.

Put them in if you scrub rocks or curbs often. I have white out and it don't look as purty when they are chewed up.

Doing the entire control arms are much easier, especially if you bought new bolts. If you have a torch and time, I'd put urethane ones in. Your dealership doesn't want to deal with changing the bushings as it is cheaper just to buy the complete arms. It will cost more for them to do bushings rather than replacing whole arm assembly.

I have the same issue! Go figure. I suspect my issue is in the jack itself. I was considering getting an assembly. $40 at the dealer. I guess I should hit it with a volt meter first.

K&N didn't make one for the VGs. An intake on a VG would be just as drastic, depending on the intake.

Here is dyno test of a vq done by K&N for their air intake. It shows the baseline at 169 HP at the rear wheels. Thats a 30% loss if stock is approximately 240 HP.

I'm sure you could make a VG33 make as much power as a stock VQ35, it will last as long as the VQ though. That is why the VGs last so long, they are dogged out making the stock parts last longer. -bounce-

Quick question. If I were to run OME HD front springs w/ spacers, I shouldn't have the strut topping out issue as with the AC springs, right? ALso, how about OME+spacer up front and the AC springs on the rear, I would be close to level? I am also interested in these spacers unless someone sees a flaw with this setup. I'd pay a little more for that extra 1/4".

I've got about 40k on mine. No problems.

I didn't do a straight pipe. This is how mine came out. I saw too many muddy filters with straight pipes. There was a good power improvement compared to stock.

CHeck your local Pep Boys (if you have one) and look for spectre intake parts. They have a vacuum adapter kit that has the hole saws and fittings at a cheap price. Look for part number 8711.

I just registered at this site but I have shown my setup on a different site. Here is what I did. I didn't like the plastic adapter for the air filter but the company had an aluminum that I just had to redrill holes for it to fit. It also had the fitting to put that little vacuum hose at the same location as where the stock one is mounted, between the MAF and the filter. The aluminum one was only a few dollars more.