zelix

Today, i finally started mine up after being in the shop for 5 months.... yes i'm a 16 yr old noob. I was expecting catastrophic failure from the new starter and new clutch, because i changed these solo for the first time. but no! All went well!

Truck is at my school... We are hoping to have the truck finished and mobile tomorrow. I wont have a vehicle available to get a bolt from school besides the pathfinder if its finished... You think i can drive it to the auto store?

Truck is not with me... so i don't know exactly what to get.

Ok then, what do i need to ask for at Napa or wherever i decide to go? for the bolts nuts and washers? The truck is not at my house.

Alright thanks guys, 75 isn't that much more then 65 i think. I asked my dad and he said dont worry about it. I will ask my auto teacher what his best suggestion is, otherwise i dont think i will be victim to any catastrophic failure.

Ok thanks, i set that at 75 yesterday is that ok? or should i lower it down to 55?

can anyone tell me the specs for the bolts on the drive shaft and 4wd shaft? Thanks, don't want it to pop out cruising down the highway!

misplaced them, can anyone tell me what i need? 1995 Pathfinder 5 spd. Thanks!

Thanks, didn't think to look in the 80s section

i have read so much about this on these forums, however forgot most information. I think i need GL-4 something something fluid, and have no idea how much i need in the trans. i heard the trans had a faulty fill point or something and you need to fill it more or something? getting my rig all back together tomorrow so direct help appreciated! EDIT: also need to know the ammount of fluid that goes in the transfercase thanks!

As title says asap please

uum i could try take a better picture, but it was like all goey and wet in there when we took the trans off, now a days gone by and its all dried up and the white stuff is like dust now.

Was already on the truck when i purchased it. I would have put one on there anyway though! in all seriousness the stock pipes IMO are disgusting.

Have been working on this for the past month, i am in school, and have posted before on my problems with cash, and my clutch etc. I'm 16 and its been a month since ive started the disassembling of truck, and were finally there! The facility is at my school, where i am enrolled in the auto class. also found some nice rot right underneath drivers side floorboard.... ^^^ WTH is the white stuff ??? also the release bearing, the main reason for replacing clutch, is COMPLETELY SEIZED, will not move at all, unless you take a hammer to it. so how is my floor rot? anyway to patch that or anything?

how do you remove the torsion bars? i have a 95, just need to know cause i need to get the tranny out. thanks

Hey guys im not sure if i have the exact same problem as this guy, but my pathy doesnt want to start either. when u turn the ignition i hear a click everytime then nothing. if i turn the ignition upwards of 10 times, the engine will finally turn over and start no problem. and after it starts up that first time, i can shut it off and turn it back on first try for the rest of the day...

What kind of trans fluid for the 5 speed? also where the hell is the tranny dipstick...

good eyes, i cant see them in the picture, but in person i can see the warps, i got rear ended and i think that's the cause of one of the warps.

http://www.por15canada.com/ Thinking of getting this stuff and applying it to my frame as much as possible, and possibly a clear coat for the fenders, before winter comes and the roads get dumped with salt... i know my frame is already rusted, but apparently this bonds to rusted steel and creates the protective bond: POR-15® chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, non-porous coating that won't crack chip, or peel. It works by isolating metal from moisture. Without moisture present, steel can't rust.

didnt get the chance to take it to the school shop today, drove the silverado instead. i should do a wheel swap with the front one and see what that does, but yeah today after school i was crusing on the highways and was feeling really good, no wobbles or anything at the higher speeds. tommorow ill check things out some more.

no, much much slower and damage by the looks of that video, not nearly as bad. at school we have a balancing machine. set it up, put the weights on, perfectly balanced with the new rim. here is the spair rim with the old tire mounted on the rear axle ^^ concrete dust is the whitish stuff on the tire, tire doesnt look in to bad of shape tbh. spair tire on bent rim thats now on my tire carrier on back. grinded on the inner chrome part of the rim, can see it grinded and bent the top part of the rim and here is a picture of just behind the wheel, best i could get, and holy crap this picture makes it look incredibly rusted, but its much better condition in real life. (mostly just dirt actually from when i went mudding a few weeks back) looks fine to me, straight etc. any input?

as title says, rim is bent, was really wobbly driving, fixed it at school by putting my spair rim on, exact same type, and put back on the same tire. balanced the tire perfectly put it back on, however improved i think i still feel a wobble.... is it all in my head? or could i have bent something further back? i was going 30km/h or 18mph tops and drifted into the curb. when i took the wheel off i examined the suspension components and axle and as far as i could tell there was no bends or cracks.... also it was only the right rear wheel that hit that im aware of. thanks

off topic, i like your gauges

egr function? would also like to know then

this post is from a year ago lol, looks like hes long gone from this site.