Howie

It's easy. Plug and play.

When my commute was 6 minutes, my mpg was 14 at every fill, then when I changed jobs my commute was 25 minutes, mostly highway (and I got Warn hubs), it increased to 16.5 to 17 mpg.

Just do it yourself, it's not hard. Or do what I did which is get a new axle and CV boot, since the new boot costs like $8. Put the new axle on and then replace the boot on the old axle so you have a spare!

Mine wipe instantly when I pull the stalk then shut off just like the FSM says.

Sorry to hear that. Glad you're okay. Shame at the loss of the Pathy though. You should get another one and keep the totaled one for spare parts! (Just not suspension parts).

My '01 R50 didn't come with a little black bag. Just the scissor jack, the lug wrench, and long bar to crank down the spare. Those 3 things are held in place with specially fitted brackets under the rear seat. And I got mine brand-new, so nobody else could have taken it.

You had to replace BOTH solenoids? I'm not sure why they would have failed together, unless the mechanic was just replacing both because he was in there. You should have asked what the exact codes were. As far as mileage goes, my '01 Pathfinder has 135K miles on it, and still going strong. Yours should last another 2-3 years easy!

Oh yeah, my bad. I read that too quickly. I was talking about the sensor and not the solenoid. The sensor going bad throws code P1140 (right), and P1145 (left). The solenoid may throw code P1110 or P1111 (right), or P1135 or P1136 (left), depending on the malfunction. I take back what I said about your mechanic, although if the part was $265, he still charged you $435 for labor. Was it a five and a half hour job? I don't know, I've never done that one.

$700? Yikes! The VVT solenoid is a $30 part. There are 2 of them on your engine and they just fail every once in a while. I've changed it out twice now. All you need is about 10 minutes and a wrench. Never go back to that mechanic again. He ripped you off. Also, next time pull the trouble code yourself (borrow one for free from Autozone), post the code here, and we could've told you that.

Sounds like you have a leak in your system and have lost pressure. I had to have my low pressure side replaced, like the other guy. See my thread for how I saved a lot of $ by having a hydraulic shop repair my line instead of buying a $125 part. Best way to get started on this is invest $40 on an A/C diagnostic manifold. You can pick one up at Harbor Freight: A/C manifold (it's listed for $50 here, but you can get them for cheaper in the stores if you have one near you). Instructions on the manifold combined with the section in the shop manual will tell you whether you have a leak in the high pressure side, low pressure side, or compressor itself. If you have problems with this step, feel free to PM me. You might have the fluorescent dye in your refrigerant from the factory. This will be indicated by a green sticker under your hood. If you do, you can get a UV light, shine it on your A/C hoses and see where the leak is. Get a UV light from Harbor Freight for a few bucks. If you don't have the UV dye in your refrigerant, you can add a can of the stuff with the dye in it. You'll be able to tell right away where the leak is. If the leak is on the low pressure side, I recommend doing what I did and finding a shop that will fix your hose instead of buying a whole new low pressure side. See my thread for details on that. Good luck!

Actually, I didn't even get the Bosch one. I cheaped out and got the Standard Motor Products one. I figured if it went bad, I could just replace it again. Especially now that I know how to do it. I replaced it last August, and no trouble codes since then, so I guess it's still going strong. To get the real answer, though, I'd have to hook it up to my Nissan Datascan to see if it's still putting out the proper voltage, since the rear sensor isn't involved in adjusting real-time fuel trim.

That's the one I used, and it's working just fine. Changing it out, however, was more challenging than I thought. It's because the wires are secured by clips all along their length, but there's one clip you can't get to either from above or below because it's in a very small space between the engine and something (I forget what right now), really close to the header. Anyway, I ended up just cutting the wire of the old O2 sensor and pulling it THROUGH the harness to remove it. Then I installed the new one without any problems.

Nice!

Yeah, wow, you don't even need to remove the wheels to do both of those jobs.

Yes, very nice! Did the guy who did the welding also design and make the sliders? How did you find the guy?

Maybe the guy chromed them himself?

Yeah, I like the stock wheel too. The center caps are big enough to hide my Warn hubs! Good luck in your search!

Why you need 'em? I have same wheels, but wasn't planning to replace them. Sorry!

I was thinking MAF sensor even before I finished reading the post.

I heard a story of a guy who was under his truck with just the floor jack supporting it. His 5-year-old kid came along, turned the handle and killed him. I wonder how much therapy that kid will need?

Whatcha need the extra cylinders for? Are you towing something huge?

It's an easy job. I did it for the same reason. You're better off replacing the drive axles, even though it's much cheaper to replace just the boot. I bought a boot and a drive axle, and was going to return whichever I didn't use. Turns out that it's a bitch to remove the spider joint, which is necessary to replace the boot. One guy on this forum did it with a vise and a hammer. I have a vise and a hammer, but no matter how much I wailed on that thing (I did remember to take the snap ring off), I still couldn't get the spider joint off. So I just put the new axle on and called it a day. I still kept the new boot, though, because one of these days I'm going to figure out how to remove that damn spider joint, then I'll put the new boot on and have a spare axle. I think someone else said that they're the same left/right, because it's the same part number.

Please let us know the answer to this. I'm interested!

Guys, I think the best way to do this, instead of arguing the pros, cons and ethics of Borla, would be to have someone go to a shop, fab one up, and then post pictures and dimensions here. Anyone else who wants one can then take those pictures, to go their own local custom shop and get the same thing made. Everyone who wants one, gets one, and nobody has to shell out $15,000. End of story.

Yeah, F--- Borla. I was considering getting one of their exhausts for one of my other cars, but now they're off the list. There's plenty of other aftermarket exhaust makers that are much smaller companies who would be happy to have your business and won't rape you to get it.