Extreme90path

Agreed. Nissan's electrics are nothing compaired to VW and Audi electrical problems. (I own a vw bug and jetta also I work on my friends audi 4000) They had to be on drugs when designing the electrics. Damn big loops instead of latters... arg.

hahahahaha gotta love that!

I have done the relay upgrade on my pathy with silverstar bulbs. Overall the lighting is better, but I am still not happy with it. Nissan did a poor job of designing the headlight lens. It doesn't let the light out where it needs to be. My 86 jetta w/ stock cheapo bulbs has a better lighting pattern. I am going to give the diamond cut style a try, and if I am not happy w/ those. I am going to use the case and retrofit a set of HIDs off of a wrecked audi. I have seen it done and it works really really well. Just not all that cheap, but you get hi/low. Oh yeah, and I have aligned the headlights properly. Just my 2 cents. Oh and one last thing, when doing you wireing upgrade make sure you don't just splice in the new wire at the back of the original plug. It will bottleneck the electrons and cause a hot spot also it will decrease the potential extra lighting you may recieve.

yeah I agree! They squeeeeeak like hell. Mine don't when it's raining, but that's it. SQUEEEK SQUEEEEK! Note: I do agree, UCAs are beefy as heck, just a pain to get aligned correctly.

What 88 said... put that sucker in Neutral haha

http://www.alpine-developments.us/nissansc.html Possibilities for 3.0? Maybe? Check it out

Looks rockin! What a beast!

woops I didn't realize this was a 4"BL I did washers with my 3" ones ... my bad.

Superson, Washers is what both my last pathies had for spacers. I first one came that way and my black one, the new shaft got fubbed up, so I did the same thing to it as my old pathy had. One thing though is you'll want longer bolts so you can add a proper amount of washers so that you can attach to the steering box properly. I have had them this way for years now, and I wheel it a lot and I have never had an issue. But that's just me.

yummm v8!

wow, you guys are all really touchy about the CLs geez. He stated for wheeling the CLs need an Idler arm brace (did you read it?). So much stupid drama from adults... whooo! (PS: It's just a SUV)

I have always had great luck with Bosch

I love purpose built pathies! My roomate (aka Tbecktold) is doing an SAS on his HB. We recently swaped in an H233B with a lock right and he also just picked up a driver drop front axal a of a waggy. Now he just has to decide wether to go spring under or spring over. I can't wait to see his beast hit the trails.

yeah, when I had my pathy aligned with the calminis they had the same problem, so went to a much longer bolt.

SASed pathies are pretty damn sweet. But I have to say that I will probibly never do an SAS on my pathy. SA up front is awesome for rocks. But really every where else IFS rules....or at least I think.

but to each there own.

Lets see here, I have the Idler arm brace, Rear diff skid and UCAs all from Calmini. I won't sit here and say there products fit perfectly, the UCAs needed some "grinding" after the alignment so that the shocks wouldn't rub. But they are beefy as hell, my rear diff skid ... well let me say nothing is going to damage that crap and my idler arm brace was a pain the the arse to put on, but I managed to get it on without re-drilling. But So they arn't the most precise pieces on the planet, but they are beefy, and I am never going to have to worry about my UCAs going to hell, my diff being screwed and my idler arm sheering off.

I think that is when you go out to the junk yard with a sawzall and cut the dash to hell to get the vent, then break yours out of your pathy, then force the new one into place, muhahahahaha ... jk.

Finally finished the T belt. Wooo, and he does run well! (except for the stupid exaust leak xDD)

good place to start is the ones right off of the + terminal off of the battery.

ok, new belt and new WP gasket will be here tomarrow. I hope it all goes better this time xD

awsome thanks for the tips!

you will have to wire your cluch switch to the "P" switch, so that the computer thinks your in park when pushing in the cluch that way you can start it. Also if your adding an "interlock" switch you'll have to wire that beast in as well. Which I am not exacally sure how that one works, I know it's a bypass for the clutch switch, so I am thinking what you will have to do is tie one wire (+) side in the front of the cluch switch and the (-) behind the cluch switch. Then run thoughs to the interlock. At least that is how I am thinking it is wired in, I am not looking at my FSM for this info, but logically that seems like how it would work. Double check a wireing diagram just to make sure.

Agreed Redpath but still I am pissed at myself for not doublecheckin the gasket before I buttoned it all up. El well, that's how things go, at least I will get it right this time. Sorry for the rant. But somtimes... xD

ok will do. But the bummer thing is the one I got came in a sealed package (in plastic) that said if seal is broken yatta yatta you know the rest. Damn it. Welp, I guess that means another new belt. ARG.