rennwerkes

A new filter and gasket set will run you less than $20. Not much $'s for peace of mind.

HAH! Thanks! I thought I heard other folks say that sometimes the factory amps were under there also. I just didn't think that's the best place to put an ECU since if water gets in your car that the first area to get wet. Go figure!

Folks, forgive me if this has been discussed before but my searching abilities are pretty poor, what's that thing under my front passenger seat? There's a little LED on it. TIA!

Rather than cleaning the filter I'd suggest just buying a A/T filter kit and putting a fresh filter in there. I'm guessing your fluid was old AND burnt. Given the circumstances it might be a good idea to run it a day or two then drain the fluid again and put in fresh fluid. If I'm not mistaken, only a small amount of the total amount of fluid comes out every time you drain it so you have to go through several drain/refill cycles to get your fluid reasonably clean and fresh. You might also want to think about using a Synthetic ATF. Unfortunately, your trans. may be on its last legs already.

Well here are my observations after using the Bissel. Oh my God!!! The stuff that was collected after the vacuuming was solid brown! :o Like unccpathfinder said, you've got to do your seats using this process several times. I just didn't have the energy to do it as many times as I should have but I feel I've gotten my seats AND my carpets reasonably clean. Until you shampoo your seats and carpets you don't realize the amount of dirt and grime that's in there.

Ahhh...that might be worth a try. Remember, if at all possible try not to do the pump and bleed method. Use a pressure or vacuum bleeder.

Hmmm...not sure if you can "bleed" the ABS sensor. Unless there's another type, the one I'm familiar with is a pick up sensor that reads the movement of the wheel's hub and tells the computer when it stops moving so that it can actuate the ABS pump. Maybe someone can verify this.

Cool, I'll give it a try. Thanks!

Didn't want to hijack the previous thread! My passenger door will lock but won't unlock with the other doors. Before I dive in, anything I should know or any advice? Thanks!

What about using something like a small Bissel shampoo/vacuum? It sprays on a detergent and then sucks everything up. I just realized my passenger seat has this funky stuff in it and sprayed some Simple Green on and scrubbed a little with a terry cloth. WHOA!!! Scary how dirty it was. Hopefully in the next weekend I'll use the Bissel. Wll post results.

Regarding your ABS, as Solid Snake said do the regular maintenance stuff. But I wouldn't go crazy trying to find the problem. If your ABS isn't working, the brake system will still continue to function in a normally. As far as bleeding your system, if you can avoid it, do not use the pump the brake pedal method. This will often ruin the master cylinder piston and seals. My favorite way is to use a pressure bleeder that pressurizes the fluid reservoir and then all you do is crack the bleeder nipple and out comes the ugly old fluid. A second way is to use a vacuum bleeder on the nipple side. The irritating thing about this is that you have to make sure the bleeder nipple's threads are air tight or else air will be sucked in and out again, no fun! Oh, and make sure you use good fluid. Ate gold or Ate blue, both good stuff! better than DOT4.

Sorry, no feedback from me on burping, I'm new to Nissan cooling systems. However, be careful about that spin check on the fan clutch. If I'm not mistaken, it's activated by heat and I think you're supposed to do the check when the car is cold? Hopefully someone will chime in on this one.

Unless your car's engine has been modified your temperature should be spot on at just below half or at half. I can't see any reason why it shouldn't be there unless there's a problem. My 91 never fluctuates once it reaches operating temp. Like Slick said, you've got to make sure everything is working and installed properly. Water pumps will usually show signs of failing by either leaking coolant or having a wobbly bearing. The fan clutch is another possibility if it's not working properly. I believe if you do a search someone's already discussed how to check it. The radiator should also be checked. Are your fins falling apart? Is it gunked up inside? Maybe it's time for a new one. A bad or old radiator could definitely cause over heating problems. Not sure about what the consensus is on the forum but I prefer to stick with factory temp thermostats. Used to be that guys like to run cooler thermo's on cars but what they basically did was keep the car running in "warm up" mode and basically just screwed their gas mileage. Car never reach operating temp. or just took a longer time to get there. Make sure you also use a good radiator fluid, a non phosphate type with distilled water to prevent deposits. I know it's on the expensive side but I prefer to use BMW fluid. I used to use the generic long life stuff and never really like it. I still ended up with deposits. Whew! Hopes this helps a little!

Hey, thanks for the update. Always good to know what the end result was. Interesting about the electric fan. I'm guessing if anyone is worried about their system not running properly (or even if it is) can take it to an A/C specialist and have the pressure checked out.

:sniff:

Ah man that look sweet!!! Can you tell me what model it is? Thanks!

Thanks for the link. I did a search but I guess I didn't look back far enough! I guess an aftermarket steering wheel is the best alternative. I really wanted to use a stock wheel from a newer car because the rim is a bit thicker in diameter but these don't seem to work due to the cruise control on the newer cars which my 91 doesn't have. I'll reply back on my experience. Might go with a MOMO wheel.

My steering wheel is crapping out. The outer covering is giving out due to age. Has anyone changed/upgraded their's? Any suggestions? TIA!

Yeah, I'm going to take the advice from here and start running just regular gas. Have been using the middle grade but figure that's overkill too. Actually, most BMW's currently run high compression motors so Premium may not be uncalled for. However, I think all that's really needed is the middle grade for BMW's. I've also had friends tell me that they feel they're getting more power and better gas mileage out of premium but I'm guessing it's because they motor is running poorly to begin with so the higher octane compensates or it's just psychological! Glad you like my avatar! I'll be sure to update if I come across a better one.

Vengeful, you're right about that and I was a subscriber to that theory. But then I hear from a good buddy of mine that works at a BMW dealership that they recommend using premium in everything. Mind you, not all BMW's call for premium. Got me thinking and questioning my logic. I was just wondering if the 3.0 runs fine on regular. By the way, your avatar resembles my sig!

Folks, I'm curious what grade of gas everyone uses? This would definitely affect mileage. I know there are two schools of thought with some opting to use "regular" and others prefer to use the highest grade.

Actually, I think they were all gapped at 31. Figured that stock spec allows up to 35 (correct me if I'm wrong) so went with the largest gap and biggest spark allowable.

Hmm...have never heard about not gapping them but there's nothing on these boxes about that. I'll check with NGK when I get a chance. The part no. for these is BKR6EIX.

I know you guys are going to laugh but just installed some NGK Iridium plugs and I swear the car feels a bit peppier and revs a bit easier. Mind you, the original plugs were near new NGK's but I figured what the hell! Plus, the Iridium's should last much longer than the stock plugs. Gapped them at 35 and made sure to use some antiseize on the threads.

I was thinking about that but you'd also have to swap electrical connectors, they're different.