rennwerkes

Folks, Not sure what the problem is but took mine out of my 91 in less than five minutes. Of course I pulled the whole reservoir out which seems to be easier. Three screws, disconnect the electrical connectors off both pumps and finally disconnect the hoses out of the pumps and the whole assembly pulls out. Much easier than trying to just replace the motor from reservoir. Hope this was helpful. Rennwerkes

If you check around you should be able to find one for about $200. Whatever you do, if you have to crack open the system don't forget to replace the filter/drier. I wouldn't try to guess what happened, just take it to your friend and see what he comes up with.

Yup, the German stuff is good but give your car a shot of two of Techron. While the amounts Chevron put in their gasoline is miniscule the additve from the bottle really does the job. I'd use the German additives more as a maintenance thing.

Thanks for the info on the intake stuff. Not really into "show", more interested in stuff that'll actually do something. I'll try installing a new filter and cleaning out the MAF. By the way, CRC is making a cleaner specifically for MAF now. I've always used an injector cleaner in all my cars. You shouldn't have to do it too often but I'd suggest two or three bottles if you've never done it before and the car has high mileage. After that, maybe once or twice every 3-5k. Techron, the bottle that actually says "Techron" is probably one of the better additives. I also like German additives like Lubromoly Ventil Sauber and Jectron. Not cheap but good quality stuff.

Yeah! Ticking sounds like it's coming from shifter area. Sorry, but what does this mean?

Okay, I'm going to be a bit lazy here and just ask: 1. What have folks been doing to improve breathing on the front end. 2. What's the deal with the electric fans? Seems like the stock fan does the job. thanks again!

Slick, Did all that already. All the hinges check out and nothing I can see is getting in the way. All I can see being squeezed is the rubber seal. Rennwerkes

Folks, it's the newbie again! My driver side passenger door closes in a weird way. About four inches before the door closes there's some resistance to it. Just like it's hitting something soft. The door will close but there's a noticeable gap up top. I've read that these doors can sag but mine seems to be aligned perfectly with the body, just doesn't close effortlessly. Any idea's? TIA!!!

Hey Slick, thanks for all the good advice! I'll post my experience once I've done the job. Mahalo again from Hawaii!!!

Thanks for all the kind advice. Have a few follow up questions: 1. Am I doing any damage by leaving the exhaust the way it is for a few months? Have a few other things I'd like to do first, like my shocks. 2. Should I expect hp/ft/lb gains using only the header? I'd prefer to leave the rest of the exhaust system stock. Thanks again!

Folks, sounds like I've got a possible problem with my exhaust manifold because I've got a definite ticking sound when the car is cold. Now from what I understand most folks with this problem change the stock manifold over to a header. Most seem to prefer Thorley. My questions are these: What benefits does a Thorley header offer on a 3.0? Does it really make that much of a difference? Should I change out all studs and nuts with factory items? Should I use a factory exhaust gasket? TIA!!!

RedPath88, You're right, it's actually the whole threaded assembly that seems to be moving around. Not quite sure why but it's not cross threaded or anything, just seems to move around. Might have to use something really high tech like a broom handle to keep my hatch open!

Cool, thanks for the advice! Any comments on KYB's?

THanks but maybe I wasn't clear enough. It's not the stud but it's the stud mount, the portion that you screw the stud into that's moving around.

Can anyone offer me some advice on how to R&R the front and rear shocks? Just eyeballing them it looks like they're a simple unbolt - bolt on deal. Am I missing something? By the way, I'm probably going with KYB gas shocks. Anyone have any experience with Bilsteins?

Good info! I forgot about Daniel Stern lighting for technical help. I think for now I'm going to go with Silverstars. Found some for less than $20! Maybe in the future HID's might be a good upgrade. Kicker is that they draw less wattage when they're up and running but put out WAY more light.

Can anyone tell me if there's a fix for the rear hatch strut mounting pin failing? Mine's actually moves around which allows the strut to slip off. Thanks!

Thanks!

Interesting! Is there a link you can direct me to that covers this upgrade? I've got some killer BMW automotive wiring lying around that I could probably use!

Don't worry about the part no., I'll probably go with the truck set up. Love those euro Hella's!!!

Thanks for the info. I hear you about the blue bulbs, no "all show and no go" for me. The truck solution was what I was thinking about. I had a hardbody a few years ago and knew that I swapped out the stock lights with Hella euro 5x7's for an incredible difference in lighting. Can you tell me what would the swap require? Also, where is a source of the factory euro lights? Thanks!

Hi, I'm a newbie here having just bought my 1991 Pathfinder. One of the first upgrades I usually do to any car I buy is upgrade the headlights. I was wondering if anyone has done so and if so what did they do? Thanks!