rennwerkes

Thanks for the pic. Nope, mine doesn't have the switch. But I think I'm going to just bypass it and hope that's the problem.

Mark, Forgive my ignorance but where is this switch? I've never noticed it before. Thanks, Dean

Nothing is every silly when it comes to diagnosing a problem! Yup, I checked the battery. In fact, I pulled it, topped up all the fluid and charged it a bit but to no avail. I'm going to check my connections to the starter and everything else. I"m hoping it's just the safety switch that the clutch pedal activates. Thanks!

Okay, last time it was a clutch safety switch that wasn't being actuated enough that prevented my 1991 Pathfinder from starting. This time I have no idea what's going on. Tried to jump start it to no avail. Battery is good and holding a charge. Ran fine and started fine last night but tried to start her up today and starter won't even turn over. Any idea's? TIA!

My locks are acting up also. Could you be a little more specific about where the lock box is again? Is it outside or inside the car? Thanks!

Not always. There are some factory brake lines that are more expensive than braided ones. However, after reading the post about the leak I think you're right about it being the metal portion. I thought it was the rubber part. Regardless, I'd check all the lines just to make sure the other sides aren't in the same condition.

If one line is bad I'd guess the rest are in similar condition. If you can, change them all. Not sure about Nissans but sometimes braided lines are cheaper than OEM and better.

Hmmm...fluid shouldn't be dark. Did you bleed almost to empty and then refill with fresh fluid? Make sure you're using at least DOT 4 fluid.

I usually recommend pressure bleeding. When you use the "pump the brake pedal" method you sometimes push the piston further than it's normal operating span. What happens is that the crud that get built up on the areas that don't come into contact with the seals can then cause the seals to degrade and loose a perfect seal. This would end up causing a "soft" pedal feel. Seen it happen several times in the past.

Here's an update on my problem. Got under the pedals today and noticed a hole right where the push button for the safety switch is supposed to hit. It's actually a bit off centered so normally the switch makes contact with metal. I'm guessing that because of the side to side play that the clutch pedal has that the switch sometimes was slipping into this hole. I covered it up with some cardboard and duct tape and all seems good. But is there supposed to be a rubber stopper there? Couldn't find anything on the floor.

Good advice. I'm going to give it a go when I get some time over the weekend. Thanks everyone for the info.

I'm nearly sure it's not the solenoid. The 'clicking" is something else. I'm guessing it might be one of the relays (or hoping more like it!) Looks like I should check all my connections at the battery first. I think there are a bunch of plastic connectors there.

Need some insight into this problem. My 91 5spd refused to start yesterday after running into town (about 12 mile drive). Turn the key, no solenoid click, just some small clicking noises. Checked the battery out and charging system, no problem. Is there a safety switch on the clutch pedal that can do this? Also understand there's a relay near the battery that may be also the culprit? Thanks!

Just did mine. The driver's side is easy to get to. From underneath the car it's close to the front of the block. After undoing it coolant may still not come out due to corrosion. Just take a small screwdriver and start poking around. Coolant will start to come out. The passenger side is nearly impossible to undo because it's in back of stuff (sorry, can't remember what) but I just gave up. The unfortunately thing is that there's still quite a bit of coolant left over. My hope is that the fresh fluid will be good enough as a refresher. I know some here don't agree with this but I always suggest using good quality phosphate free coolant. Pentosin makes some quality stuff. I've used Prestone's and didn't like it. Seeped all over the place.

These are the amber lenses that screw into the bumpers, not the fogs.

Folks, have a set (l & r) of front bumper lenses. Looking at the bumper, the left one has a crack in it but only does not extend past the edge. Just cover shipping $5 and they're your's. I also have some 2001 Frontier oil filters, same deal. Let me know if you're interested. Please email me at rennwerkes at yahoo dot com

Is it possible to upgrade the rear drum brakes to discs? Even if it is, is it a simple thing to do? Or even worthwhile? Thanks!

Driver side.

Ah, okay, thanks! I know some mounts are hydraulic in nature so will leak fluid when they go bad. Mine are wet so it must be a leak from somewhere else. I'll give it a better look later. Thanks!

Thanks but what am I looking for? A crack or fluid leaking?

Can anyone tell me what the symptoms of a bad engine mount are? Any instruction on the board on how to R&R one? Tried to do a search but turned up nothing. Thanks!

Yup, just bit the bullet and bought the correct core size made by Koyo. Plastic top and bottom and aluminum core. I know some prefer brass radiators but I'm used to the aluminum ones from my BMW's. Also bought a bunch of Pentosin coolant that won't chew away at the alloy parts in the engine. A little pricey but worth it in the long run. I've seen what cheap coolant can to do. Mainly corrosion and deposits!

Thanks for the info. I'll get the thicker one. I was just pinching penny's since the place I got the thin radiator from ships free!

Hope someone can help me on this one. Ordered the radiator hoping it would be like the one I've got on my Pathfinder. Unfortunately, it's the one with the smaller core, I think it measures 16mm. WHen I check the application guide both the 16 and 25 should fit. Does anyone run this radiator and does it cool your Pathfinder well? The one that's currently in mine is the 25mm one. THanks!

I'd suggest using a good quality brake fluid since they're never very expensive. Ate Blue or Gold are DOT 4+ which provides slightly better specs than DOT 4. The cool thing about using the blue is that you know when the fresh fluid has made its way through when you start seeing a change in color. Next time you bleed your brakes you use the Gold and just watch for the clear fluid to come through. Easy!