DoctorBill

This morning a total of about 6 to 7 quarts had siphoned in. The dipstick has fluid about half way up the stick. I figured there was probably air inside all those places where the old fluid had been pumped out when I drained the AT onto the ground and later into a bucket. So, taking a chance, I ran the engine for about three seconds and rechecked the dipstick - level had not dropped. Ran engine ten seconds - level had not dropped. I have no idea how long it takes the AT to pump out any AIR inside the Unit. Seconds or a few minutes ? If the AT Oil Pump is centrifugal, it may be "unprimed" and just spinning AIR. If it is a piston type pump - it should move even air and get going quickly. I just don't know - I am in abject awe of Automatic Transmissions - they are like magic to me. Like Captain Kirk's Phaser would seem to a twelfth century Viking Raider..... I can siphon some of the Fluid out from where I put it in, but it seems to me that there should be a lot more room for fluid in there considering how much came out. Then there is the empty New Hayden Cooler to fill up - that should fill in two seconds ! Does anyone who KNOWS AT's - know if it will damage the AT if I run it with fluid halfway up the dipstick ? It is in Park (Neutral) so no LOAD is on it. If there is a lot of AIR in there and the level drops way BELOW the dipstick in a few second, isn't THAT worse than what I have now.... I doubt the AT is over filled, just has a lot of AIR where there should be fluid and it needs to flush the air....but I am worried to run it this way for any length of time. The engine is cold, so it is idling at high RPM's... A thought - Since the AT is just a device with a pump (centrifugal ?) that finally empties into a "sump" that is open to the air (via the dipstick tube - and isn't there a breather tube also?), how could it build up pressure anywhere inside the transmission ? Wouldn't it just pump out thru the dipstick tube ? In an engine it may be bad to overfill since the crankshaft and piston rods would be hitting the oil, whereas here there are no up and down piston rods flying about... Opinions ? How have other folks handled this situation ? Just don't want to do something DUMB again....! WTF - it is 10:20 AM and instead of waiting for opinions, I started to siphon some fluid out the same way I siphoned it in...only into a peanut butter jar... ....Peanut Butter wouldn't hurt the AT - would it.... DoctorBill

It is 8:50 PM and I started the second gallon bottle of AT Fluid - 4 hours / gallon. I did the old fashioned siphon thing. Suck on the tube until the fluid gets over the hump and down below the level in the bottle. After that, gravity keeps it running. This stuff is so thick and the siphon tube is only about 3 mm ID, so I have ample time to get the Tygon Tube into the AT Dipstick tube and down into it as far as it would go before it comes out the end. The siphon had emptied at 9 PM, so I wiped it off with a Kleenex and didn't get very much Fluid in my mouth - just enough to taste - uuuum, good...! One drop orally versus how much absorbed thru my hands and arms when I got hosed by the vehicle. I spit it out - wouldn't you ?! I smoke cigars, so a drop of AT Fluid doesn't bug me too much - Like Bill Clinton, I didn't swallow....Ooops, wrong person! By tomorrow morning, all I'll need to do is add the last quart plus any in the bottom of the two gallon jugs. Then I can start 'er up and make sure I didn't screw the pooch somehow. Then - who's next ? My wife's '97 Suzuki Sport Sidekick, my daughter's '03 Kia Rio, my '93 Geo Metro, or my '90 Jeep Cherokee ? Mow the lawn. Roundup the weeds. Prepare my chemistry class packet for this Fall Quarter, go to the pistol range, reload some rounds, take stuff to the dump...on and on. Each one needs my tender loving care... I am blessed with work - nothing is worse than being bored. DoctorBill PS - Question: What is the fluid amount difference between the lower and upper mark on the AT Dipstick - one quart ?

I had some Tygon (Clear) Tubing - the stuff you can buy in any Hardware Store now. Am Siphoning the Fluid in...I have the time...it is taking about two quarts per hour. Note to Readers - Edited in from when I had finished (8/16/09 9:15 AM).... I overfilled the AT and had to siphon some Fluid back out. So....clamp the Siphon with a pair of gas pliers with a Rubber Band around the handle and check the level every quart or so...you cannot judge how much was left in there ! End of note. According to the Chilton Bible this beast takes Nine Quarts ! DoctorBill

It is finish......! I be done ! Listo ! Alles ist ausgespielt. Fini ! I filtered the coolant collected in a big pan and poured it into the Radiator. No leaks visible... Then had my Boss start the engine while I directed hoses into a bucket. Spraying oil/air and was about to have "she who must be obeyed" stop the engine when it started gushing out and collected maybe a gallon before it started spraying again. Had her kill it. I would guesstimate maybe two gallons has come out. Cut the hose that came with the Hayden Cooler and spliced the Steel AT Coolant pipes to my copper pipe from the Hayden Cooler - ingoing at the bottom. Just as I finished, it started to rain like the proverbial 'cow peeing on a flat rock.' So here I am, all cleaned up from the AT Fluid all over my arms, waiting (for the rain to stop) to add the AT Fluid thru that small tube that holds the Dip Stick...Ha! Isn't there an easier way ? Maybe I should siphon the stuff in with some small 1/8 inch tygon tubing. Two freaking Gallons ! Does it sputter when you add - that is, bubble back out ? I am tired. I have small cuts all over my hands and arms. I have pine needles in my shoes and hair. I am thirsty and itchy. I want a Beer ! I deserve a Beer. Thus, I will go get a Beer and enjoy that Beer while it rains and contemplate serenely driving my Pathfinder down a country road and smoking a fine cigar....knowing that the Automatic Transmission is properly cooled and the valves and pistons are doing that for which they were designed. Ya...I know - still have to put the Grill, Bumper, and parking lights back on... But the scary part is over...knock on wood ! DoctorBill

When I went to attach the Shroud to the New Radiator, I ran into a wall. The New Plastic radiator does not have the same attachment point arrangement as the Old Metal Radiator - and no attachment accessories were provided - I had to make them. You folks who already have the New Radiators no doubt have some attachment doohickies that came with your vehicle or you bought something from Nissan or you made your own...this is all new to me. So...an hour later...I made some "Clips" from a strip of galvanized Steel I found in my garage junk box (Do you see why I save EVERYTHING !) and found some quarter inch bolts, nuts and washers. The clips were made by bending (fatiguing) the strip, grinding it smooth, drilling the holes and bending the top. The clips slide into the slot perfectly - of course - I made them perfect...! Assuming you have the same situation as me - you are on your own here, guys...do the best you can ....if you use washers instead of making a "clip", then you will need to grind the two sides flat to fit in that plastic holder... The holder on the New Radiator is so damned weak looking...! Be careful not to break it off ! I made the Clips to distribute the strain... Here it is assembled. I'll put RTV on the threads so it won't come loose with vibration. I then put the bottom Round part of the Shroud back on. You have to do it from underneath the vehicle because you can't see past the Fan. Attach the bottom center into the peg and push the top sides into the slots - takes some finesse. Don't get dirt into your eyes ! The Top Coolant Hose goes back on and then I will filter the collected coolant back into the Radiator. Then I will continue draining the AT Fluid out - the right way this time - and hook up the pipes and fill the Transmission. DoctorBill

No Beer ! That's it - I quit...I'm outa here ! Bye..... So...you'se guys are "disenchanted"....so before that, you were "enchanted" ? Back to work..... After Crvett69 reminded me that the Old radiator has Rubber Grommets (Bungs ?) on the bottom two Positioning Pegs, I set the two side by side and transferred the Grommets. The Grommets were quite stuck to the old Radiator and had to be pried off with a screwdriver. All the while I was praying that the hardened Grommets wouldn't split - they are hard. I plugged the AT Coolant Barbs on the New Radiator by putting Blue RTV on some bolts and pushing them into the Barbs and sealing the end off with RTV. The Barbs are not made like the ones on the Old Radiator. They are held in place with a large nut and internal rubber washers. I pre-positioned the Bottom Coolant Hose in place and just snugged the Strap Clamp and lowered the New Radiator into place. Seen in Photo later on...3 down from here. The Two Top Radiator Clamping Grommets were difficult to put into this New Radiator as they made the two flanges differnt than on the old Radiator - the new ones are not vertical slots, but have hooks in them. I took the Top Radiator Clamping Grommets apart. and "spit" on the rubber part - Lubrication....and forced the Rubber Grommet into the Plastic Radiator's slot - this takes force and squeezing and wiggling the grommet...but it goes in. I then slid the Metal Sleeved Washer in the Grommet (from the front) and inserted the Washered Bolt (from the backside) and screwed the Radiator to the Front Horizontal Support. Now - looking down inside behind the Radiator, I now (GENTLY !) positioned the Lower Hose to fit onto the Metal Coolant Pipe coming from the Thermostat. Maybe I am paranoid, but I wouldn't be forcing the rubber hoses on those plastic Radiator Pipes because they look quite weak to me. Might break off if you wang them very hard.... (?) DoctorBill

For what purpose does one "Divorce the body from the frame, shoving blocks in between and bolting everything back up, usually accompanied by swearing and or blood sacrifice." Is this like beating one's head against a wall for the shear pleasure of stopping. Just kidding.... Mayhap tomorrow, with the new knowledge of the Rubber Grommets on the bottom Radiator pegs, I will get this baby finished. Now that the Shroud and Radiator are out again, I replaced all but one Wire Clamp with Strap Clamps. It will be nice to hear the Pathy's engine running again - and not have AT Fluid gushing out like a severed artery ! Knock on wood.... DoctorBill

First off...I am not trying to blame anyone or be a prique...I am pissed off I went thru all this and didn't know it was easy as pie to take the Shroud out. (BTW - I am a prique!) Vulgar Slang - A person regarded as highly unpleasant, especially a male. I sure don't want to get everyone here pissed off at me. Second - WTF is a "Lift" anyway....? In doing searches for "Timing Belt" (like looking for a specific shark in a feeding frenzy), I never came across this Shroud business and no one informed my while I was posting the struggle. No offense, but, "3) You don't have to relocate the radiator. (I know you can leave them be, but with my 2" lift and removing the bottom shroud, the fan blades are about 1/2 lower than the radiator shroud. A 3" lift would make the cooling much more inefficient. For those with a E-fan mod, this obviously would have no bearing.)"... leaves me wondering..."...what did he say?" Bottom Shroud ? - isn't that the rubber doohickie that I pulled off that covers the underside of the engine ? I'd have never gotten the fact of the Shroud being in two parts out of #3. In any case...here we are and now it is out for all to see. Onward. I am finding my new half assed cheap Radiator to be about ½ inch shorter that my original metal radiator. If I set it in the vehicle, the mounting bracket is ½ inch below the metal flange that holds the split grommet-screw bolt at the top. Now I'm having difficulty explaining myself.... ..and....I will edit until it is right and clear - after all - it is for posterior...oops...posterity. Edited in later on ----> Crvett69 again came to my rescue to point out that the Radiator has Rubber Grommets at the bottom on those two pegs. My only defense against being eminently stupid is that mine are rock hard from age (like my muscles) and looked like they were part of the molded bottom portion. I'll take pictures tomorrow. DoctorBill "Don't worry - be happy !"

Admit it...you didn't know either - or you'd have mentioned it when I was complaining of how hard it was to deal with the Fan Shroud...wouldn't you have ? You wouldn't have let me go on and on having such problems.... Post No. 3 - I quote, "Remove the fan/clutch first after loosening the shroud, then everything can be removed including the radiator without removing the hose barbs." Nor has anyone else told me...and it is not in the Chilton Manual anywhere, is it ? 5523Pathfinder doesn't mention it in his Thread, either...Post No. 2 How to change your timing belt. Description with pics Crvett69 knew about it and told me once I had informed him, later on, about this forum. This amazes me - Such a simple thing left unannounced or that was not known. It changes this process from a bugger all - to - "no worries, Mate!" DoctorBill

Went into town and purchased a New CSF Aluminum / Plastic Radiator for $65. Am draining the old one -which is a pain in and of itself - gets coolant everywhere... I'm trying to save all of it...filter it and put it back when this is done. Why didn't someone tell me that you can remove the bottom of the Shroud Back round part by removing clips holding it ? Crvett69 (Automotiveforums.com) informed me of it....Thanks so very much ! The Fan Shroud is in two pieces (my '95 is) as shown below. Push the clips back on the outside about halfway down. The bottom of the ROUND portion falls away allowing the Shroud to be pulled out (the upper hose must be removed). Had I known this back when I started (I will edit this in on page 1), it would have been a whole different Ball Game ! Now I can work on the Radiator, Hoses, Fan, Belts - everything....with the Radiator still in place ! In fact - I wonder if I could have replaced the Timing Belt w/o removing the Radiator at all ! DoctorBill

I cleaned up the mess - got most all of it into a Garbage Bag - I suppose the Environmental Thought Police will give me a visit now... Decided that I'll get some of that AlumaSeal - Aluminum Radiator Sealer to try fixing that leak. ---Of course after I try moving the hose as Adamzan suggests. I don't remember (this is becoming a big problem) if I mentioned this at first, but it seemed to me that there wan't much Coolant in this Pathfinder when I first started this project. The overflow bottle was empty and no coolant could be see in the top of the radiator. I think maybe this baby already had some leaks ! The water pump weep hole looked as if it had been leaking and this drip would be slow enough that maybe I missed seeing it before. Anyway - the mess is cleaned up and...............the FREAKING ENGINE RUNS ! Now I can attach the AT Hoses w/o getting soaked in AT Fluid. Hope that crap isn't too toxic - got it all over my hands.... So - it really is a successful venture, even tho I screwed the pooch with the AT Fluid... Thus - everything I did from start to finish wasn't bullpuckie. BTW - while looking at the Radiator's Butt end trying to tighten that inner lower clamp, I actually saw one of the Engine Coolant Drain points just in front of the Strut Mount ! I would also note that the fellow from the other forum (Automotiveforums.com) Crvett69, told me that he finds that lower Coolant Hose a "bugger" (quote) and does not remove it. He leaves it in place when he removes the radiator so that he doesn't have to deal with it either ! Wish I had tried that - could have put that hose on the easy way and lowered it down in there when I replaced the radiator - take note folks ! I think I found where the Radiator is leaking. The left side Shroud Mount....This spot has Dried Coolant marks around it. I think the bolt used (original ?) was too long and maybe punctured the Radiator Body - else the welds are leaking because they were forced out and split away from the Rad body. This Bolt should be a Hex Head to facilitate removal (no room for a Phillips Head driver). I'm now wondering if I need to get a rebuilt Radiator or have this ALL METAL one fixed... Did some phoning - A wrecking yard has a NEW one for $65...probably half plastic (top & Bottom). A Radiator Shop wants $130 to rebuild my ALL METAL Radiator or wants $95 for a new Plastic Tank radiator. Apparently you cannot buy new all metal radiators any more.. Wrecking yard radiators are probably all busted - being in a wreck - buying one runs the risk of the same problem I have now. DoctorBill

........Disaster....... ! I knew something had to go wrong..... Yesterday while helping my son get his car fixed, I bought six large strap clamps to tighten the Main Radiator hoses down. This morning, I changed the top Nissan Wire Hose Clamps for strap clamps - no worries. I spent almost two hours trying to get the bottom hose clamp next to the Radiator on ! What a Bastard that clamp position is ! Finally got it on as tight as I could given that it is tight up against the Radiator (Pipe is short) and the Freaking Shroud is in the way and there is no room for a tool and you have to work one handed....bugger all ! Got the Upper clamp on the lower hose on and tight. Checked everything. Filled the Radiator with 50:50 - no leaks. So - I decided to be brave and start the engine.... The engine started immediately and ran like a charm - no worries. No Bangs or Clanks ! I let it run about 5 to 10 seconds and figured I better see if there were any Coolant leaks. Killed the engine and when I walked around to the front of the vehicle I saw this....! . . . . . . In concentrating on the Coolant Hoses, I had completely forgotten about the A T Hoses being open...! What a freaking MESS. Then after a few minutes while I was soaking up the AT Fluid with paper towels, I see blobs of Green Coolant in the AT Fluid. The Radiator was slowly dripping from right under the upper hose connection....but the hose connection was quite tight. I suppose I have some "pin-hole" leak at the very top of the Radiator. But right now, I have AT Fluid all over the Belts and front end of the Pathfinder... Guess I will spray it off with hot detergent water. S...H...I...T...! Sprayed hot kitchen detergent water all over everything up front followed by a water rinse. I am worried that the AT Fluid will booger up all the New Belts I just installed. Will repeat the detergent wash & rinse in a few minutes. Maybe a Cigar and a Beer is called for - although I don't deserve it...what a pekkerwood ! Does anyone live close to Spokane, WA who can drive over here and Kick my Ass ? more to come - God knows what - at least the Timing Belt seems OK. DoctorBill

"where does your temp gauge sit ?" On my lap... DoctorBill

This was determined the hard way...the first thing to install is the Fan Blade Assembly. NOTE - the Fan has a front and back side to it - The front has an "F" stamped in the metal. Once the Fan is in, put the Fan Shroud in and hold it in place with wire... Once the Fan Shroud is in the campartment put the Main Radiator in. This takes some finessing and shoving and patience. You need to remove the wire holding the Shroud to wiggle everything into place at this point.... The two Radiator "Prongs" fit into the holes in the bottom of the Radiator Slot - had to be careful not to bend the AT Cooler Hose Clamp bands out - they get caught in the Radiator Fins and bend out if you are not careful. There is plenty of room in between the AC Radiator and the Main Radiator ! The two front Split Rubber Radiator Holders were placed and tightened down making sure the worn spots in the Rubber Holders was turned UP so they won't wear further. The Fan Shroud has to be pushed down so that the bottom edge fits into some slots at the bottom of the radiator and then two Phillips Head screws are screwed into the SLOTS in the Radiator Top - NOT into the holes that are above the slots ! Don't understand what the holes are for... All seemed tight at this point. Bent the Copper Pipes for the AT Cooler by hand so's they protruded exactly where I wanted them to. Have to cut about 3/4 inch off one end of the New upper Hose I purchased - went on easily. However, after installing the Lower Hose (new) the damned Nissan hose clamps fell apart and I lost a part...crap. This being Sunday and living in a small town where everything closes and they roll up the sidewalks, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to buy some strap clamps. Think I'll replace the upper Nissan wire clamps with strap clamps while I have the chance. I was hoping to get Coolant in this Pathy and starting her up ! Oh well - I have work to do around the yard...having siding put on the house and need to prepare some things. More coming tomorrow. DoctorBill

I plugged the AT Coolant Hose Entry Points on the Main Radiator with Brass plugs (5/16ths, if I remember right - 60¢ each) which had Blue ATV in the threads. The Main Coolant Radiator was hosed clean with a high pressure hose tip blowing the water thru the radiator back to front to force out dead bugs and stones and any human flesh.... Bending the Copper Pipe to run from the new AT Cooler to the AT Coolant tubes below was a pain in the arse...wish I had obtained Aluminum Tubing ! One cuts most tubing with a pipe cutter - the thing with a wheel and clamp that you rotate around the pipe. These things cut the pipe, but also close down the inner diameter maybe by half on small tubing. So I filed the opening back to the original diameter using a Rat Tail File. Then came the long, drawn out process of bending the Copper Pipe and trying to "fit" it into the slot between the AC and Main Radiators - THAT was the pain in the arse. I had to cut my Cable Ties so that I could move the AT Cooler Radiator around. Getting the Copper Pipes into the AT Cooler Radiator rubber tubes was the hard part - no room to grasp and apply force - but it got done. In the picture shown, it got dark before I could secure the AT Cooler with seven Cable Ties (one to each pipe end). I'll finish it up tomorrow and connect the Copper Pipes up to the existing steel AT coolant pipes using the new rubber tubing that came with the Hayden Cooler. I need to put something around the Copper Pipes to keep them from rubbing on each other and the Vehicle body parts. Rubbing may eventually cause a hole for them to leak from. I'll put the Main radiator back in and the Shroud and Fan Blade Assembly. Then I can fill the Radiator with 50:50. I suppose then I will put the Spark Plugs back....crap, I hate that back right side spark plug fiasco. The AT Cooler into it's final position with Cable Ties. Found a bucket small enough to fit under the Vehicle and placed the AT Coolant hoses into the bucket. Since I had turned the engine over several revolutions with the 27 mm Socket on my 30 foot cheater bar, I know the timing is not off - no valve meeting a piston ! I hooked the Battery back up, grounded the spark wire from the coil and spun the engine with the Starter Motor - spun really nice (whew !) and some AT Fluid came out the tube on the right in the pic above. Smelled gasoline really strong - Injectors are doing their job. Decided to finish up. Spark Plugs first. I had a way of placing those plugs down in those deep plug holes by pushing the plug end into a piece of Fuel Line on the end of a Shish KaBob Stick and lowering the Spark Plug into the hole, turning the Fuel Line until the plug starts threading, then pulling the Fuel Line off and finishing with the Spark Plug Socket wrench. That way I don't damage or bend the Spark Plug end if it happens to fall out of the Plug Socket Wrench as they sometimes do - also you can better see what you are doing ! I also apply a dab of PERMATEX Anti-Sieze lubricant to each Spark Plug's threads so they will come out easily next time ! More coming DoctorBill

The first Belt one can put back on is the Alternator / Water Pump belt - it is the one farthest back and must be put on first ! It is not easy...the only way I could get it on was to place it over the Main + Alt pulleys and then the WP Pulley - BEFORE I attached the WP Pulley ! That is, I positioned everything while holding the WP Pulley in my hand and then slipped the WP Pulley onto the WP spindle and screwed the four bolts in by hand. Otherwise the Alt/WP Belt was just too tight even with the Alternator as slack as it could be. I will leave it here for the moment - the FAN mount has to go on it.... Don't be confused by the pictures - they were taken when I was all done ! The Breather Tube was placed back over the pipe it was disconnected from, the clamp reseated, and the two bolts put back - Middle and Left side. NOTE - be most careful ! The left side bolt holding the breather tube on fell off twice while I was trying to get it in...just being contrary...and almost fell into the open Spark Plug Hole in number one cylinder ! I about had a fart attack - it fell into the WP area, but I had thought in went into the spark plug port (right next to and below the bolt position !).... I even probed down inside with a magnetic retriever....before I found out where it actually went. God Almighty ! I wire brushed the two long Bolts on the AC Tensioner Pulley Assembly, applied a dab of grease to the threads and screwed it back on... The Long Bolts with 19 ft-lbs and the right side short Bolt with 13 ft-lbs. (Manual) I turned the adjusting screw until the Tensioner Pulley was down to the bottom of its run and the New AC Belt went on easily. That's the second belt outward.... That Tensioner Pulley rotated easily but sounded a bit noisy to me - may need replacing soon. CourtesyParts.com lists this part as - PULLEY ASSY-IDLER,COMPRESSOR. 11925M ($47.12 as of 8/8/2009) http://www.courtesyparts.com/11925m-pulley...cPath=5572& Off to the wrecking Yard for me ! I adjusted the AC Belt via the screw on top as shown until the AC Belt seemed tight to me. Then the AC Tensioner Pulley "Nut" was tightened to 15 ft-lbs (Manual). The Power Steering Belt was a Bugger All Belt to get on. I loosened the PS Tension Adjuster (have to do it from underneath) to its maximum run. I had to put the Belt over the Main Pulley while holding the PS Pulley in my hand..... I then pried the PS Pump downward (loosens it) and pulled the PS Pulley, with difficulty, onto the pump shaft. Not easy to do. The PS Pulley shaft has splines and once you get the Pulley into them, you are OK. Put the washer and nut on and tighten (15 ft-lbs). I tightened the PS Pump Adjuster screw (has to be done under the vehicle) until I thought the belt was tight enough. Once done, you run into a problem.....you cannot get at the Bolt that locks the adjuster. I had to remove the Bolt holding the Bottom Coolant Pipe and push it to the right to get at the PS Pump locking Bolt. Once tightened, I replaced the Coolant pipe Bolt. At this point, I had to put the Fan Housing back onto the Water Pump Pulley. I gingerly removed the bolts hoping the Pulley would not flip off - being under some tension from the Belt. It stayed. I placed the Fan Mount onto the WP Pulley and put the 4 Bolts back in and tightened them with a 10 mm Box Wrench. I tightened the Alternator Adjustment Bolt until satisfied, then tightened the locking nut. Now I was glad I had taken the spark plugs out before ! I turned the Engine over using my big old 30 foot cheater wrench and the 27 mm Socket on the Main Pulley Bolt. This allowed me to easily get at the four WP / Fan bolts to tighten them. It also allowed me to check that all the Belts were working OK and check the tension in each one. I tightened each in turn until satisfied. I am going to leave the Belts as they are until I run the engine and AC and such. If they squeel, I can tighten them...I don't want to destroy any bearings because of over tightening these Belts.... Next comes re-installing the Spark Plugs, hooking up the AT Cooler to the two rubber tubes with ¼ in copper pipe, and then putting the Radiator back in, filling it with 50:50 Antifreeze and starting the bugger up.... DoctorBill

Yes, in hot weather the AC Radiator will be warm (hot?) - has anyone ever felt the AC Radiator when the AC is runnng on a hot day ? How hot does it get ? Hottest where, top or bottom ? That damned pillar in front messes up cooler placement - one like mine, that is. Had I bought one of different format, with the hose barbs coming out the sides instead of the top, I could have put it up front like this person did...who's picture is this ? I cannot remember...! I copied it to do, but bought the wrong configuration because I wasn't paying close enough attention ! Let that be a lesson to anyone reading this....pay very close attention to all this detail... I had opened the box and wrapping and then waited too long to exchange it. I got so absorbed in the Timing Belt, that I didn't pay close attention to the Cooler configuration. Anyway - if you are hauling some heavy butt around, turn off the AC and give the AT a break. However - on the other hand, someone here had said that by putting the AT Cooler behind the main radiator, the AT would always be running at the engine temp which is where is is supposed to run, anyway. So, there is that.. I don't know...good enough for government work. Besides, our Pathfinders will be illegal to own soon enough. They contribute a heavy carbon footprint to the atmosphere. Get used to the idea of driving in a 'Smart Car' ! You vill like it ! What we would probably do is modify the Smart Car to our own way of thinking... DoctorBill

Allow me to address some of your comments and explain my reasoning. K9sar - "you mounted it BEHIND the radiator? Are you sure your fan will clear it? Mine is installed on the front." I wanted to mount my Cooler Radiator in the horizontal format. Why? If you mount the radiator Vertically.... If any of the DOWN FLOW coil tubes are vertical, the fluid can dribble down them and the air will rise to the top (as all air does in liquids) and so those tubes may be filled with air and stay that way. This will substantially cut the heat flow from leaving those tubes into the fins. If you mount the radiator horizontally with flow from the bottom to the top.... The air in the system will go with the fluid since gravity is not acting on the air/fluid mixture as it will in a vertical tube. Thus air cannot get trapped as it can in the vertical format. With that reasoning in mind...I could not mount the AT Cooler Radiator horizontally on the front of the AC Radiator due to that center pillar in front of the AC Radiator (see photos). I was thus left with two options. 1. Mount it between the AC Radiator and the main radiator -or- 2. Mount it behind the main radiator. I am not sure the Cooler radiator would clear the fan if option #2 was used. Even if it worked, how would I get the tubes to clear the Fan Shroud ? Option #1 seemed best. Here is a scan of part of the Hayden Instructions showing where one can put the Cooler. Personally, I doubt the AT Cooler will operate at 75% efficiency...I think it willbe higher than that since the AC Radiator is quite clean now and will not be used in cool weather anyway....(?) Just my humble opinion.... Blackspawn - "...my local Nissan Dealer and they told me that they would charge me $700 to do my timing belt." Ya...me too ! I don't have that kind of "disposable income" as it is called. "F" them ! I have done some automotive work - AutomotiveForums transmission Rebuild that plus rebuilding my Geo Metro Engine...so I am not too afraid to do this....lol. This was FUN (since I have no time constraints) and gave me something to do (while saving me $400) besides watching FoxNews all day showing me how my country is self-destructing, how my Health Care Insurance I have from my Retirement is going to be ruined, how they have put me, my children and their Children in debt for 50 years, how they are working to take away my guns and my freedom to choose a gas guzzling Pathfinder (screw their "Junker Trade In" - they will have to take it from my Cold, Dead Fingers!), to force me to drive a "Smart Car"..... Frankly - I'd rather change my Timing Belt and add an AT Cooler and be in peace for a while at least.... BTW - I only paid $1,000 for my Gas Guzzling, Air Polluting Nissan 4x4 Pathfinder...! So....as Earl Pitts says, "..be it so !" Question - are any of you going to forward my comments to the White House and turn me in ?! Will the thought Police be visiting my house when the coup de'tat happens ? DoctorBill

OK guys....I have four numbered photos of, I believe, all of my AC System under the hood. BTW - my AC works - puts out cool air, but otherwise I know nothing about it. Is this the "Freon Filling Port" ? (Photo #1) Where I would "Top Up" with cans purchased at various stores? This is the Compressor ? (Photo #2) What is this thing for ? (Photo #3) Isn't the "View Window" supposed to be on the top of the Compressor? (Photo #4) I'll be damned if I can find it ! Please help...especially with this "View Window" thing...are you sure '95's had them. Wasn't that the year they switched to the "New Ecofriendly Freon 134a" ? DoctorBill

I've been changing my Timing Belt and Adding an Automatic Transmission Cooler Radiator to my newly aquired used Pathfinder. Replacing the Timing Belt and Adding an AT Cooler After that task is done, I want to see if my AC is OK. Saw 18 and 22 ounce cans of 134a Freon at Wal-Mart for around $23 - about $1 / oz. The cans have a hose and preessure gauge on them. But I'm chicken sh*t.....never, but never messed with AC before ! I'm worried that I'll screw the pooch and wind up destroying what I have now... Are there any links (with photos - I am visually oriented) that show exactly how to top up and/or check the AC - w/o paying gozillions of $ to some shop to do it ? My 'bought used' Pathy is a WD21 - '95 XE-V6 4x4...167,000 miles on it. People have told me about where the "sight glass" is, but I cannot find the thing ! Did ALL Pathys have "sight glasses" ? Is it hidden under something ? DoctorBill

After the temp fell to 82° outside, I installed the AT Cooler behind the AC Radiator. The four foam rubber pads were applied to the very corners of the Cooler Radiator and the Cooler was held in place with Cable Ties instead of the black holders that came with the unit. Here are views from both sides of the Engine Compartment... Tomorrow I will shape the 1/4 inch Copper Tubing to run down between the AC Radiator and the Cooling radiator mount to the AT fluid hoses. There is a slot between the mounts which is a perfect place to run that Copper Tubing thru. Shaping the Copper Tubing is not all that easy as it wants to collapse. Maybe I should shove some synthetic Rope down the Copper Tubing to keep it from collapsing as I bend it - then I can pull the Rope out when done. I'll leave the two Copper Tube ends protruding just below the Main Radiator. That way when I get this baby running, I can drain the AT and hook'er up. All that is left is installing the AC Compressor Tensioner Pulley Assembly, connecting the odds and ends, Putting on the Belts, installing the Main Radiator (after I clean the fins with the hose), install the Fan, and spark plugs. God - I hate messing with those spark plugs ! Does anyone have a easy method of getting that back plug back in ? I looked in the Chilton Manual for 'Capacities' and see that the AT holds 9 quarts ! That is over two gallons ! Lord ! My fluid now is kind of reddish colored - I think it is OK, but I have Wal-Mart's SuperTech Dexron-III and Mercon compatible fluid read to go. More to come.... DoctorBill PS - Watch FoxNews and witness the self destruction of our "Leaders" in Washington, DC....(District of Corruption) This is History in the making folks... What sort of a day was it ? A day like all days, filled with those events which alter and illuminate our times. ...and you were there!

Great ! Thanks a lot. The left hose is long and went into the Radiator on the right side (facing the engine) and the right one (short hose) went to the left radiator side. Is that the way it came from the factory ? I'd be outside working on the piping and such, but we are having a heat wave ! So I'm here typing this and watching the News on Satellite TV. Watching a certain political party self destruct. Unbelievable arrogance... DoctorBill

OK...but mine is directional. I must put the input hose at the bottom so air bubbles rise to the top and get pushed out back to the AT instead of filling the Cooler Radiator with air. Bill

Ran into a new problem installing the AT Cooler. Of the two AT Hoses in the picture below, I don't know which one is input and which is output... The two 'pipes' disappear back under the engine and it is so tight in there, that I can't tell what goes where. I cannot yet run the engine w/o coolant and since I am installing the AT Cooler between the two rad's - I can't run the engine....to see which hose squirts ! I will set up the Cooler today with Copper Tubing and make both close together so that I can switch the AT Hoses once I determine the input vs output. Pictures coming in a few hours. Have to fix a toilet handle... Am I alone in this thing where I am "Mr. Fix'it" for EVERYTHING ? It is a huge responsibility and a burden I shoulder with great care.... Is it too early for a beer...? DoctorBill PS - Off Topic.....Americans ! Look at this ! Re-introduced as an amendment...probably will pass in the current Congress ! Another One !

Ran into a new problem installing the AT Cooler. Of the two AT Hoses in the picture below, I don't know which one is input and which is output... The two 'pipes' disappear back under the engine and it is so tight in there, that I can't tell what goes where. I cannot yet run the engine w/o coolant and since I am installing the AT Cooler between the two rad's - I can't run the engine.... I will set up the Cooler today with Copper Tubing and make both close together so that I can switch the AT Hoses once I determine the input vs output. Pictures coming in a few hours. Have to fix a toilet handle... Am I alone in this thing where I am "Mr. Fix'it" for EVERYTHING ? It is a huge responsibility and a burden I shoulder with great care.... Is it too early for a beer...? DoctorBill