DoctorBill

Went to Schucks and bought this stuff The Permatex Spray-n-Seal interested me - it is "New" - never saw it before. Have a look at the web site Permatex Spray n Seal Here is the pdf file mentioned in the Web Site above Permatex Seal n Spray pdf file Here is another article about SnP More on Spray n Seal If the Spray n Seal is a fluid, it might "wick" into the gasket where it leaks and seal it. THEN I could tighten the bolt(s) and squeeze the material in the gap.... I bought the syringe thingie to push the Red RTV Silicone into the gap. Not quite sure how I could force the Red RTV into the gap and not have it squirt out sideways. I still haven't decided what I will try FIRST. DoctorBill

Terrano1992 Quote ".....alternator sits on a separate bracket, bolted to the side of engine block. So - no, there are different bolts..." The Alternator Tensioner Bracket shown in the Photo Below does bolt into and thru the Oil Pump Front Portion (See diagram EL-4 of FSM) on it's right side. The upper Alternator Mounting Bolt goes into the engine block - yes. But the Tensioner Bracket and the Oil Pump have a common bolt. I washed all that off with Degreaser ("Gunk") and looked very carefully with a hand mirror and flashlight. It is difficult to see and impossible to photograph. It corresponds with the right portion of the Oil Pump Front Piece as shown in the diagram and the Red Bolt in the diagram is the one in the photo above with the green "X" on it. It is hard to see when the engine is covered in grime and grease - but is obvious when cleaned off. At least on my '95 VG30E engine. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Edited in Later (2:30 PM) I have some PERMATEX Ultra Gray Sealer which I used to put a Transmission Case together with. Good Stuff! Am going into town - will buy whatever is High Temp, however. What would you use as a hi-pressure applicator ? I have no idea about that... If I loosen all the Bolts on that Oil Pump front, do you suppose it might "Move Back or Move Forward" enough for me to fill in the gap - would a gap form ? Anybody know what happens if those SIX (6) bolts in the diagram were loosened - would it be able to move enough to allow what you've suggested. So screw the Oil Pan business - would the Oil Pump "give" at all ? Or would any movement booger up another gasket somewhere else ? I wish I had taken more pictures of that area when the Water Pump was off... Any Pathfinder "Oil Pump Ex-Spurts" out there ? Who has replaced one ? DoctorBill

Sounds like a plausable idea, Terrano'92 ! If what I discovered below doesn't work..... Maybe a syringe & needle - with thick type instant glue ! Slow setting and thick...hmmm. What do you think of the fact that the Alternator Bracket Bolt is one of those holding the Oil Pump down onto that gasket....far right side - where the leak is ? I didn't realize that fact and don't remember worrying about the Alternator Bracket Bolt very much. You are in Russia ? Which "province' ? State ? What do you call each part of Russia - States? DoctorBill

Right now, I feel like "Earl Pitts" on AM RAdio...."I'm so mad I could.....etc." Crvett69 has asked me a few times, "...are you sure all the OP Bolts are tightened down?" I checked them - yes. While contemplating setting the thing on fire, I thought about the OP Gasket Diagram and modified it so as to show where each bolt goes more clearly...Notice the one in red. If I am not mistaken, my OP does not have that bolt...unless that bolt is ALSO the ALternator Pivot Bolt right next to the OP. I looked with a flashlight, but there is so much grease, oil and dirt right there that I couldn't tell if the Alternator Pivot Bolt Hole was part of the OP or not... So I hosed it with 'JUNK' and will wash it off tomorrow. If that bolt in red also holds the Alternator, maybe I had not tightened it enough to keep the right side OP Gasket tightened down sufficiently.... I am probably full of crap, but I am praying that there is a way out of this trap... Later (8:10 PM) - Crvett69 tells me that the Red Bolt Holds the Alternator Adjustment Bracket onto the engine. I could not tell that from all the road grime on my Vehicle.....maybe this is why the oil pump gasket leaks - maybe I hadn't tightened that bolt down enough. Supposed to be 12 ft-lbs. If so...I will reassemble the TB and WP/Alternator belts, the Coolant hoses and run this bastard until it is hot and see if it still leaks....$750 ! DoctorBill

I am ready to have this ridiculous piece of garbage towed in to Spaulding Wrecking ! I wouldn't even contemplate fixing the Oil Pump - and for a $5 gasket ! Remove the front axle to take off the Oil Pan - I am not freaking insane.... It might as well have been "totaled" as far as repairing it costs.....$750 labor (10 hours labor) I was just quoted. 170,000 miles on it and if the Oil Pump were fixed, then another freaking problem would show up. This is a "Money Pit." I wonder what is next ? I would never buy another Nissan vehicle. Never. Japanese engineering..... Anybody want a really cheap Nissan Pathfinder (it is good at finding a path to the poor house...) DoctorBill

Jesus.... Crvett69 tells me that I'd have to remove the Oil Pan just to get at that Oil Pump cover plate and take out the Oil Pump. In order to remove the Oil Pan, I'd have to remove the Front Axle... I am now very, very sorry that I bought this vehicle - wish I hadn't now ! This is just sheer madness....designed by The Three Stooges ! DoctorBill Here is what is happening just north of (next to) our house.

Blackspawn - No, if the Front Crankshaft Oil Seal is doing what it is supposed to do, why would that make another seal (gasket) blow out...? I did the test with Talcum Powder and a cleaned up front area. I cleaned all the oil off with Kleenexes and powdered the area - like a baby's butt ! Put on the TB and the Damper and had the battery charging up all night. Grounded the main spark wire. Cranked for maybe 45 - 60 seconds and another 10 seconds after the oil pressure light went out. Immediatley took off the Damper, Timing Belt, and Camshaft Pulley and took pictures. Nothing leaked except one place.....Here is what I saw: Be patient - Photobucket is going berserk ! Front Crankshaft Oil Seal - no evidence of a leak. R3 Camshaft Oil Seal - no evidence of a leak. L3 Camshaft Oil Seal - no evidence of a leak. The Oil Pump showed a leak at the upper right side where I had thought it was leaking before. It is difficult to photograph this part of the Oil Pump front. Here is a diagram from the FSM showing a gasket which I suspect is bad (at the exteme right end). I checked the Bolts on the front of the Oil Pump and they are tight. I don't want to fart around with the Oil Pump...it frightens me....beyond my pay grade... If we all agree now, on where this sucker is leaking, I have a few thousand questions to ask... First - the "front aluminum oil pump cover" - if I remove those 3 (or 4?) bolts, does the front plate of the Oil Pump come off ? Second - could I purchase another one of those Gaskets (Labeled with a big X above) ? Third - Does anyone know what the part number is for that Gasket. I'll bet if I call Wendle Nissan and ask the parts guy, he'll say there are 17 Gozillion different gaskets and he can't find the one I wont by my describing it.... Fourth - The FSM calls for Silicone sealer on the above Gasket. Fifth - Do I really have to take the Oil Pan off just to fix that freaking Gasket ? Sixth - Why in the world would that gasket fail ! A gasket either works at first, or it doesn't...fail ? BTW Folks...you do realize what this means, do you not ? ! The great and wonderful Wizard of Oz (DoctorBill) DID NOT screw up the Timing Belt Installation ! Those seals are in there and working just fine....Ha, ha, ha, ha........! I am a happy camper - I thought I had really screwed up. NOT ! Just had to say that......This calls for a Beer and a Cigar to celebrate ! DoctorBill

Good ideas. I will try them. The Front Oil Seal keeps the oil inside the engine block, but is that oil under 45 PSI from the Oil Pump or is it just the Oil Slopping around inside, but under no pressure. The only place that Oil is under pressure is in journals. Once it leaves the journals, it simply flows back to the oil pan. If the oil behind the Front Crankshaft Oil Seal is just slopping around oil, it shouldn't force the seal out. If the oil were pressurized behind those seals, there would be something quite substantial there to keep it in - not just the rubber seal itself. It would need a threaded cap or some such thing. I am looking up the Oil Pump and its gaskets on Schucks web site right now. I am on "dial-up", so everything takes an eternity. DoctorBill

OK...BTW - how many ft-lbs of torque would that method apply ? So far so good....been waiting for some shade. I got everything off - had to drain the Coolant to get to some bolts on the lower cover. The Main Coolant Pipe was in the way. Now I am not sure of what I am seeing...maybe I didn't screw up ! The two Camshaft Oil Seals are dry. The Bottom Front Crankshaft Oil Seal "looks" OK. Either the Timing Belt (which didn't have much oil on it at all !) threw oil up on the top of the Oil Pump Housing, or the Oil Pump Gasket may be leaking...! The Front Crankshaft Oil Seal looks OK to me, but what do I know about Oil Seals !? I need some opinions now. Could the Oil Pump have blown the gasket on the front - or would Oil get thrown up there if the Front Oil Seal leaked ? Is a leaking Oil Pump gasket uncommon or has it happened to anyone before ? This vehicle had the following things wrong before I started: 1. A bad R3 Oil Seal 2. A Water Pump with signs of the weep hole leaking Now maybe a bad Oil Pump Gasket. I have no idea who serviced this Timing Belt before I bought the vehicle or what was done in addition to changing the Timing Belt. DoctorBill PS - I just remembered something - I bought this Pathfinder from a guy who was selling it for his father. This fellow works here in my town for Case Hardware repairing Farm Machinery and said he was doing an engine rebuild of some muscle car. Hell - I'll bet HE did the TB on this Pathfinder - that's why they claim there are no maintenance records. The TB was a NAPA Belt - a shop would probably go for OEM for liability reaons.... If he works on Farm Machinery, I'll bet he "Meat Hands" what he does. He didn't want to tell me that the work as "home done" - maybe he whacked something....quick and dirty...like the Oil Pump Gasket. It was so very strange that his Dad had kept no maintenance records....most everyone keeps receipts in case the job goes south. *%#(^$@# *&$@^%$ !

Now that I know what I am doing..... (If you believe THAT, I have a National Health Plan to sell you !) ...things are going nicely (KNOCK ON WOOD!). Drained some Coolant, removed the Upper Coolant Hose, removed the Shroud by popping out the lower round portion (so nice), and then the Plastic Fan Blade Assembly. NOTICE and WARNING ! The Aluminum/Plastic Radiator has "Fins" in it that are such thin Aluminum that they are just about as easy to bend as Aluminum Foil you wrap sandwiches in ! I kid you not..... I placed two pieces of Cardboard over the radiator Fins and wired it in place. Couldn't get the Damper (Harmonic Oscillator ?) Bolt to loosen (the damned thing rotates easily). Couldn't fit my Air Hammer in there - no room. So....with great trepidation and shaking hands, I set up my 30 foot Cheater Bar with a pipe, covered the inside Radiator with a piece of wood shelving and a 2x4 to hold the cheater bar against the Damper and took off the main spark wire from the coil. I know I said no more pictures, but I can't help myself - I'm obsessive compulsive...4 views ! The "Pipe" was my Fence Post Pounder - the only thing I had short enough to fit under the Vehicle. I put the Positive Battery connector back on and turned the starter switch as damned quickly as I could....! Heard a huge expolsion (oh - sorry - I had Chili last night..) and when I looked, nothing seemed to have happened. But when I checked the Bolt - it was loose ! Hot Damn ! That method works like a Democrat voting for more spending and more taxes.... I will now remove the Power Steering, Water Pump Belt and AC Belts, the AC tensioner assembly, the Damper and all the cover plates. Then I'll put the Damper back on and the Water Pump/Alternator Belt and run the engine and watch for where the oil is coming from.... More to come - few if any photos. DoctorBill

"What you could do to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt is put your cheater bar against the frame and bump the starter, but disconnect the plugs first!" - Adamzan Crvett69 just said that to me in an E-Mail.... I think I remember someone mentioning that quite a while back in this thread, also. Lord, what if the Bolt won't give - could it break the cheater bar? Send metal flying into maybe my Radiator or someone's face ? Sounds dangerous ! Have you personally done that ? If all else fails, I might work up the nerve to try it. That starter motor is so very powerful ! Been resting all afternoon. I'm 66 and not feeling very spry with all this rainy weather. Tomorrow is another day, though. Bought two Oil Seals. THE only two left in Spokane besides the NAPA "Crimson Rutabaga" ones for $9 each. Been watching the News and wondering why a certain party denigrates and belittles its constituency...how very strange. You don't bite the hand that feeds you ! .....unless you are feeding from some other hand.... DoctorBill

I bought two Beck/Arnley Front Crankschaft Oil Seals for $5 each at Schucks. THE only two Oil Seals in all of Spokane's Schucks Stores ! Wendle Nissan in Spokane had NONE in stock ! Lord God ! NAPA had some CR (Crimson Rutebaga ?) oil seals for $9 ea. Will not take pictures. Will drain some Coolant in order to remove the top Coolant Tube so I can get the Shroud out. I plan to remove all coverings over the Timing Belt and run the engine with only the Water Pump - Alternator Belt to see where the leak is and then again when the Oil Seal is replaced. I would advise this option when you are done so that you can prove to yourself that all is well, then replace everything. It makes sense now that this has happened.... I hope I can get the Main Damper Bolt out w/o problems as I put Permatex Blue (removable) Thread Lock on that bolt's threads and Air Hammered it in place. I will try my 30 foot Cheater bar w/o removing the plugs or the belts first. Maybe the engine's resistance will let me loosen the Bolt - don't think I have room for the Air Hammer to get in there with the Radiator in place. If not, then a ½ in ratchet and my rubber mallet. If that doesn't work - off comes the Radiator. Removing the Radiator wouldn't be so bad if the Morons who designed it made draining it even just reasonable. What is 'funny' is that as I put that Bolt back in, I was wondering if it wasn't a mistake to use the thread lock - what if I had to take it out again ? Premonition ? I will update this as I go - I intend to go as fast as I can this time. No more Mr. Nice Guy ! DoctorBill

Called a shop that just worked on my son's Neon...they look in the book and tell me 5 hours ! That's $400 ! So, I'm off to buy a couple of the seals and open the bugger back up myself. I'm wondering if I am right about the oil leaking out. It stopped pretty quickly after I killed the engine and I had trouble getting it in... yah - has to be ! If not, I'll only be out $5 each. Bye.... DoctorBill

This is very interesting....see post #30 http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...st&p=419838 where I gave the Nissan Part Number I got from Courtesyparts.com. The Nissan part No. of the Front Main Oil Seal was 13510 - 88G00. Why the part no. difference? I will probably go buy two from Schucks tomorrow. Beck/Arnley part no. 0523288. Nissan is on the other side of Spokane. I save a lot of plastic from containers and Bubble packs - a habit from making R/C Model Aircraft years ago. I can roll up some of that. Still - I want to see what a shop would charge to do it. I'm tired and sore. Blackspawn - good for you ! Have a thought about not removing the Radiator. Guys - could he do it w/o taking the Radiator out ? If just the Timing Belt....? Get a big piece of cardboard to put over the Rad's inside part.....to protect it. DoctorBill

IMHO - Blackspawn....you should go for it ! Be brave , lower your head and charge ! Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead. What have you got ot lose ? $400 or more to be precise. Go buy the Timing Belt and Tensioner Pulley at a Nissan dealer or NAPA or Schucks (Gatorback). Buy a 27 mm Socket Head - ½ inch one. Buy a long ½ inch cheater wrench at Harbor Freight. The TB and Tensioner are about $100. If you run into anything else, buy it as needed. If the Water Pump isn't weeping at the weep hole, you could take a chance that it will last another 50,000 miles. (?) Just Checked... Schucks - Crankshaft front oil seal $5 ! Beck/Arnley. Wow, maybe I should buy three of them in case I screw another one up ! http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail....925&PTSet=A Courtesyparts.com - $5 http://www.courtesyparts.com/12279n-seal-o...cPath=5572& NAPA - couldn't get oil seal, front crankshaft....dumb web site. Don't know - at these prices, I might go broke... BTW folks....from the pdf manual (Adobe Reader)...QUOTE, Front Oil Seal. 1. Remove Radiator Shroud and Crankshaft Pulley. (Gee - only two steps!) 2. Remove Front Oil Seal. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE FRONT CRANKSHAFT 3. Apply engine oil to new oil seal and install it using suitable tool. end quote. There you go - easy as pie ! Use a suitable tool.... DoctorBill

I REALLY don't want to remove the Radiator AGAIN.... Blackspawn - if you do it yourself, you have ALL my *my "vocabulary" is so small* ups to beware of ! Don't be discouraged. Merde happens. It was my fault. Order your kit and make it happen. What made this job a big deal is the fact that I had never done it before. Didn't know exactly what to expect or how to handle the tools and such. Things DID go fairly smoothly, didn't they ? I am still alive - maybe pissed a bit... That was why I wanted to do this Thread - so folks could at least experience watching someone else do it. All my life, I have avidly WATCHED people as they work on something new so I could then use that knowledge when I needed it. IT HELPS. I have never replaced Oil Seals before. The Camshaft OS's just slipped into place. That damned Crankshaft OS didn't want to go over that lip - the inner, larger diameter part of the shaft. I wasnt ready for that.... A "special Tool" would probably be a tapered ring going over the lesser diameter portion allowing one to slide the Seal up the oiled taper onto the larger diameter shaft w/o making the seal invert. Either that, or some sleeve doohickie to expand it w/o letting the inner spring come out. I wouldn't mind proceeding except for having to take the whole freaking thing down to the Oil Seal. Having to take the Timing Belt off will make it a "bugger all" job. The Water Pump is installed - won't have to come off - it is done. The big IF is the Radiator. If I could put a thin metal or wood plate over the inner part to protect it from my puncturing it, maybe things could work out. And if that Big Bolt holding it in place comes out easily..... Thank God the Timing Belt lasts 100,000 miles ! I want to find out what a shop charges to replace the Oil Seal - I'll call a local Nissan dealer/shop. Wendle Nissan of Spokane. If it is Hideously expensive, then the decision will be made - I am CHEAP. ...and this is not a vehicle I will need until the snow comes in November. Just remember - $700. $700.......versus $300.....hmmmm. DoctorBill

Everything runs off of the Main Crankshaft Pulley (Damper). The lower TB Cover Plate has to come off, all the Belts have to come off, then the Damper. That includes the Timing Belt ! The Oil Seal is behind EVERYTHING.... At this point, I am ready to call a Repair Shop tomorrow and ask what they'd charge to replace the Front Main Oil Seal. The seal is $15, I think. Most of the cost would be labor. Probably 2 hours @ $90/hour. It is beyond my meager abilities, I think. As Dirty Harry said, "A man has got to know his limitations !" No, the Water Pump would not have to come off. I think it could be done w/o removing the Radiator which is a real hassle. Go back to Posts 30 and 31 and you will see where I commented about the oil seal and Magregor's comment about inserting it with a plastic sheet from a margarine container. I wonder if one of those "Special Tools" is needed - that mechanics have in their toolboxes ? I would imagine that the inner spring that goes around the seal and holds it tight against the shaft came off when I tried to get it over that second thicker shaft section. Right now, I am reluctant to disassemble all that stuff and do it again - not knowing if I might repeat the entire *my "vocabulary" is so small* up again... ...and if it is one of the Camshaft Oil Seals...that would be worse, I suppose.... Has anyone boogered up the job as bad as this on this forum ? If so, they probably kept quiet about it.... Merde ! DoctorBill

I took the Pathfinder out for a test drive around the neighborhood. Went thru all the gears. No funny noises. Shifted fine. Came home, parked on the concrete driving pad, left the engine running, walked around in front and saw this.... Have any of you seen a 66 year old man cry ? Well.... Here is a shot of the front lower TB cover and where the oil was dripping from while the engine was running. It stopped when I killed the engine. I am assuming the Lower Front Crankshaft Oil Seal (which I had trouble inserting) was placed in there incorrectly. But - it could be one of the Camshaft Oil Seals.... This was not apparent while the vehicle was parked on my gravel driveway which is covered in old Pine Needles - when I ran the engine before. The soil hid the oil coming out. How can I get at the bugger w/o taking the entire shooting match apart again ? At this point, even a Beer and a Cigar isn't going to help. I need to sit down and contemplate the Universe for a while. Nice - screwed up for all the world to see. DoctorBill - who screwed the pooch...

Adamzan, I offer you my most profound and gratitudinous thank you's for directing me to this Coolant Air Bleed Port. Ever since I got old (some say I was ALWAYS this way...), I have trouble seeing close up. Someone described it, previously, but I couldn't find it. Here is a close-up photo of said Air Bleed Port - as proof, read the label ! The label on mine was covered with a lot of dust and was hidden from my failing eyesight. My old Dad used to complain that I had to have my nose rubbed in something before I could see it... It is "Hose City" under that Hood.... BTW - what is the vertical thingie with the Red Question Mark on it in the lower right quadrant of the photo ? Now I'll have to study exactly how I bleed air from this system - since the Radiator Cap is lower than that air bleed port.... (?). Do you do it when the engine is cold (just started) and the water pump forces the air out ? Thanks again Adamzan ! DoctorBill

Can someone who has used it, please show me where the TOP COOLANT AIR BLEED BOLT is? Below are views of my engine with side Coordinates to point out the location (example: G-16 center photo - "4x4") I cannot find it - so I need this "Method for Dummmies"... CENTER Where is the "TOP COOLANT AIR BLEED BOLT" located ? I need to bleed a lot of air out of my Coolant ! LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE DoctorBill

Timing the Spark Here are two photos of the Distributor. On the right side (facing the engine block) is the clamping bolt - Loosen this bolt. A photo of the left side of the distributor shows no other bolt - so the right side bolt must be the only one. I will put my old SEARS Timing Light Sensor Wire on the Lead from Plug No. 1 and shine the Flasher down at the Main Crankshaft Pulley - trying not to let the Fan Blades hit it. Run the engine until it is warmed up, race the engine a few times, let it idle down then...slowly rotate the Distributor and when the Timing Arrow lines up on the 4th mark from the left, I tighten down the Distributor. Done - right ?! DoctorBill

I have Books 1 thru 4 of Frank Frazetta's art. My God, could he draw the human figure - and animals, too ! For those who do not know of him.....he grew up in Brooklyn, NY. Deceased. Frank Frazetta - Wikipedia The UNOFFICIAL Frank Frazetta web site click on "Tour 2" Tour 2 - with many many pages of his art He illustrated many a book cover (Conan, Tarzan, John Carter of Mars, Buck Rogers, etc. Comic Books and Magazine Cover Art - when he was young. His wife (who was often his model) became his business manager, but died recently... His web site is down - hopefully not forever...... There has been a DVD made about him Frazetta: Painting with Fire (2003) a DVD about his work. Conan One of his Illustrations for the Robert E Howard series of which Arnold Schwarzenegger starred in. My favorite. Frazetta Cover Art - Click on the underlined book titles (left side) to see the cover art (right side). Yes...one of my favorite artists and illustrators. Awesome ! DoctorBill PS - can't do much right now - it has been raining a lot and we have visitors....no...not the "Thought Police". I don't know if anyone has reported me to the White House for criticizing our beloved politicians - yet....

Fascinating......here is a scan of page 2-15 from the Chilton Manual published by Haynes. If you can't time it, why would Haynes have printed the page above ? Does the Left Hand know what the Right Hand is doing ? ....and....if you can't time the ignition, why are there marks on the Main Crankshaft Pully and a black arrow attached to the lower TB Cover ? My Geo Metro has an ECU and when one times it with a light, one shorts out a plug to disengage the ECU while the timing is done. After reconnecting, the ECU does it's thing again totally unaware that you have diddled with the timing... Strange....lets ask the White House - and find out what the TRUTH of the matter is....! I KNOW...Let's go out to the vehicle, measure the diameter of the Crankshaft Pulley and draw it out on a paper with a compass and draw 5° angles with a protractor and see if 5° corresponds to the marks on the Pulley. I measured the distance between mark 1 and 7 and it comes out 4.5 cm....! If I was off by ½ cm measuring the Pulley Diameter then a ½ cm on the circumference is within error - close enough for Government work...! So the marks are 5° marks...as Terrano1992 said.....just checking... If it rotates clockwise and Mark #1 is TDC, then when it is on mark #4, the engine rotation would be about 15° before it reaches TDC (i.e. - BTDC). Isn't Science neat....? Everybody can do it. DoctorBill

I want to time the spark soon. The Chilton Manual has a really, really, really small drawing on page 2-15 for the VG30E engine. Not good for old fogies who can't see small print. Chilton says to go for 15° ± 2° BTDC...... Automatic Transmission in Neutral. in the picture below.... the main pulley rotates clockwise (-->) and the timing pointer is shown as a dark black arrow. I assume the Timing Light Sensor Wire is attached to Plug Number one...... Yes? Which of the numbered marks in the picture is 0° BTDC.... Could someone in the know list marks 1 - 7 as to degrees ? Warm up the engine, race it a few times, let it idle and shine the light. Loosen and rotate the distributor ... how does one do that ? Is it fun if the spark finds it's way thru one's arms and down to the frame thru his belly or some other entity close to there ? That could make a person spill his Beer... DoctorBill PS - Adamzan...."I drove mine for a month with it overfilled buy a centimeter millimeters over the full mark and it was ok." What was that..?

Ahhh....so...I did not know that. You see, I have had almost always stick shifts. Thanks for that bit of information ! I have drained about 2 - 2.5 quarts out of the transmission and it is still high. I will drain it to the mark on the dipstick - knowing that when I cycle thru the gears, it will most likely drop way down. But - as Crvett69 has been telling me, the AT might blow the front seal if I run it over filled above the dipstick mark. He also informed me of how to cycle thru the gears just a few minutes ago by E-Mail. Funny how the Chilton doesn't inform one of that maneuver....or do they somewhere buried in the Manual ? Anyway, I am playing it safe right now. Something for the readers of this Thread to consider. I have learned quite a lot in attempting this endeavor. Thanks Precise1 ! 5:30 PM The AT Fluid drained to where it was at the top of the Dipstick mark (FULL). So I started the engine and let it warm up to where it idled back down and then I went thru all the gears for about a slow count of ten. Twice. Checked the Fluid level both times - didn't move a millimeter ! It seemed like more came out than I put back - but WTF - who am I to say? I let the engine warm up with the Coolant overflow bottle filled. Hopefully the engine will suck some coolant back in and get those air bubbles out when it cools down. No dripping anywhere - guess I sealed everything up OK. Raining and wet out - tomorrow I shall get the bumper and grill and parking lights back on and drive it - worrying all the while that the engine will explode ! DoctorBill BTW - I think you double posted (110 and 111 are the same).