DoctorBill

Ran into a new problem installing the AT Cooler. Of the two AT Hoses in the picture below, I don't know which one is input and which is output... The two 'pipes' disappear back under the engine and it is so tight in there, that I can't tell what goes where. I will set up the Cooler today with Copper Tubing and make both close together so that I can switch the AT Hoses once I determine the input vs output. Pictures coming in a few hours. Have to fix a toilet handle... Am I alone in this thing where I am "Mr. Fix'it" for EVERYTHING ? It is a huge responsibility and a burden I shoulder with great care.... Is it too early for a beer...? DoctorBill

I thought I was the only person who puts things away in a 'clever place' and then forgets where that place was.....now I feel more "normal"...lol It is going into the Glove Compartment.... Along with all the eight other parts I have left over. lol....just kidding folks ! I have only three parts left over..... Now today I am going to get the AT Cooler all assembled (Hoses and Barbs), and attach it to the inside of the AC Radiator. Haven't quite decided how yet... It comes with long plastic wire-like thingies that go thru the fins of both radiators (with a bit of spreading) and bind the two together. However, I saw, on 88Pathfinder's pictures, that he used those tie-binder things (for holding bunched wires together) to do the job. I like that better, for some reason. I may just go over to our "Hardware Store" and buy two Brass 90° ends to make the installation neater. It will go onto the backside of the AC Radiator essentially as pictured above. Inlet on the bottom - outlet will be the top barb. I bought 4 ft of 1/4 " ID / 3/8" OD copper tubing from a roll ($15 !) to make connections. Wasn't necessary, but it should make the whole thing easier to run thru those confined spaces. What concerns me as a "scientist" is the vibration of the two radiators and subsequent rubbing together that will happen. The Cooler comes with foam rubber pads - but will they not get hard and eventually turn to crap as all rubber and plastic stuff does when it gets hot and oily ? DoctorBill PS - We are having our house sided with vinyl siding and I have to cut some vines down - so I may not get much done tomorrow.

All the Timing Belt Covers are on. That single hole on the left side that takes the long 6 M bolt lines up with the Covers and the Water Pump. I used a long thick wire with a sharp end and put it in my Drill. Don't have a drill long enough to get to the back end. Ran the wire in the drill into the hole and no paper came out on the end after spinning it and pushing hard. I looked into the hole with a hand mirror and 9 LED Flashight. I see metal reflecting back at me at the end of the hole. This is very odd.... Even a thin wire spun in there did not go into any off center hole. If the hole was off just a bit, the thin wire would have gone into it. How can the WP and Cover line up but the hole supposedly under there be gone ? Everything on the Old WP lined up - the New WP lines up, but I cannot see even an off center hole at the bottom via the mirror.... ! As a last resort, I put a sharp 4 inch Drywall Screw into the hole and drilled it in with a Phillips Head bit - didn't move a millimeter. If the Gasket were the only thing blocking that hole, the drywall screw would have pierced it and would have at least tried to go into an off center hole. Nothing.... I give up. I am not going to disassemble the entire thing to find it. The six 8 MM bolts will have to hold it - plus that hole half way over from the actual water pump....8.5 inches in the picture below. Water Pump Back Side What can I do ? It will have to suffice. A lesson to those reading this....check every damned thing - everything.... Onward ! DoctorBill

I suppose I could run a drill bit in there to see what is blocking the bolt. I can use the old one to judge the depth - so I don't harm the engine block. The Water Pump is held in place (where cooland flows) by those six big M8 bolts. Water Pump Post #33 Over on the left there, no coolant flows at all. I will see what I can do - now is the time to do it ! DoctorBill

The Crankshaft Pulley (Damper) was put back on with the Pin in place (grease applied to stop rust) and the Bolt threads were cleaned off. I swabbed out the inner threads with a piece of heavy wire made into a "rifle barrel" patch type cleaner until no more grease or oil came out (used paint thinner). The Bolt was driven in with my Air Hammer at maximum pressure after Permatex Blue Thread Lock was applied to the threads. No idea what the Torque was on that bolt (Supposed to be around 95 ft-lbs). After that, I figured it is now time to attach the AC Cooler on the inside of the AC Radiator. But first - am taking this opportunity to clean said radiator. It is full of Bug Guts and Grass and Seeds and plain dirt. Using my Air Gun and Air compressor, I blew out - from the inside - one Butt Load of dry, powdered, dusty stuff !!! Then I hosed the Radiator down with Hot Water with a few drops of kitchen detergent, let it set a few minutes and then blew the crud out from the back side forward. Again - a real Butt Load of garbage came out ! I am amazed this Radiator even worked at all ! Must have had terrible heat transfer efficiency..... Bug Guts, something like grass or cotton fibers, dirt, whatever ! Did it several times and still garbage came out. I'm going to do this for the Main Radiator, also. I'll use my garden hose with a high pressure tip that really pushes the water out fast... Meat Tenderizer sprayed into there might just digest all that dried Bug Protein. Bug Guts would make a really good glue ! Try cleaning it off your windshield when it is dry! More to come - patience is a virtue ! DoctorBill

Both the Top and Bottom Outer Cover Plates were cleaned with "Gunk" and hosed off. In addition, I wiped down each cover with a paper towel to remove more Oily Dirt that had accumulated on the INSIDE...don't want it to get on the Timing Belt. The Bottom Cover was installed first. The picture I took helped me to put the right bolts where they were supposed to go - however, I ran into a Bugger All situation.... The long bolt shown would not even start to thread in ! Like there is no threaded hole at the bottom of the hole in the water Pump. I even checked with a small phillips head screwdriver. Strange. I don't think it is important, however. Shown with arrow in picture below. The Top Cover was next - unscrewed the bolts from the block and installed the cover. Note - do not tighten any of the bolts until ALL the bolts are in place - you may have to jiggle the covers to get everything to line up. The Rubber section of the Bottom Coolant Hose was set into boiling hot water until it became pliant and was installed onto the metal pipe - which was then replaced onto the Theromstat Housing. I used the old clamps even tho some think they cut the rubber with time. Forgot to buy new clamps - let that be a lesson ! I hope to God none of these Coolant areas leak - can't test them until it is all put back together ! Bugger ! Next comes placing the Crankshaft Pulley (Damper) back on. THEN comes attaching the Automatic Transmission Cooler to the backside of the Air Conditioner Radiator and hooking up the hoses. Tomorrow. SMART Car - Before SMART Car - After DoctorBill

Thanks Terrano1992, I will use the 90° method and test for TDC with a long stick. My son is still here visiting from The Coast Guard and it is hot again today - so I brought in the big Crankshaft Pulley (AKA the "Damper") to enhance the Timing Marks on it. The marks were 'enhanced' with a small square file so's I can see them better when the Timing Light is used later on. The Big Damper Pulley is called the damper 'cause it has a big mess of Rubber inside of it for damping out vibration.... Crvette69 on Auntomotiveforums.com enlightened me concerning that bit of information. He works on Pathfinders - he knows from what he speaks...! You can see the Rubber layer when looking at the back side of the Damper. I took the above photo on the AT Cooler Box to show what Cooler I will use later on. As per what several of you told me, I put the Tensioner Pulley in place with the coil spring against the stud on the right. Turned the Tensioner clockwise with a 5 mm Allen Head 3/8 inch Socket on a cheater bar so that the Allen Wrench could be held steady - rachets only go one way ! Tightened the Tensioner Nut and placed the Timing Belt over the two Camshaft Pulleys, then over the Timing Belt Sprocket at the bottom. The Timing Belt slipped over the Tensioner Pulley with a bit of force, but went on w/o using anything to pry it ! Nice. I wonder what the Manufacturer's Quality Assurance ± limits are on these Timing Belt CIRCUMFERENCE's is...? One Millimeter ? After centering the TB on all the pulleys, I placed the Allen Wrench in the Tensioner Pulley, loosened the main nut and rotated the Tensioner to about the 3 O'Clock position. Tightened the nut, replaced the Main Driveshaft Pulley and rotated the engine CLOCKWISE by hand until the marks were back in their respective positions. I used that white stick (Bamboo Shish-Kabob Sticks) to confirm that Piston Number One (closest to me and farthest on my left) was at the top when the R3 Camshaft Mark was on the money - it was. I then did the twist test to see if a 90° could be done easily or with difficulty. Had to loosen the Tensioner twice to get about 85° twist without hurting my fingers twisting the TB. I think I will leave it there as shown because I expect the TB to loosen a bit as it ages. Besides - Don't know how much force to use - I'm a weakie finger Dude anyways... So I torqued the Tensioner Nut to 38 ft-lbs. The Tensioner Allen Hole is at about the 5 O'Clock position. 5523Pathfinder had set his tensioner Pulley to the 5 O'Clock position...I can't be too wrong ! Some may say I am crazy, but I put a few drops of Instant Glue on the Tensioner Bolt protruding thru the nut so's it cannot come loose. I also put a few drops around the Camshaft Pulley Bolt Washers just to be sure they don't move. Pray.... I shall endeavor to persevere...more to come... DoctorBill

I think you posted a photo of your installation in one of my Threads - but I haven't been able to find it. Why don't you edit your post above and add that photo for all to see... My HAYDEN 514 cooler radiator is about 1 - 2 inches longer than the one in your photo and is of the end tap design - the plug-ins are on one end. I was told by someone on Automotiveforums.com to place mine on the inside of the AC Radiator horizontally between the AC and engine radiators - no pillar to contend with ! I checked it just a few minutes ago and, By God, it will fit fine ! It is even closer to the hoses from the AT ! It will be as yours was with the input at the bottom and output at the top, so any air bubbles will be pushed out and cannot get trapped in a 180° turn. Nice ! 88pathoffroad used rubber hoses to make his tandem connections - I think I will forego the metal pipe connections I was planning on and just stick with rubber tubing...WTF. DoctorBill

My '90 Jeep Cherokee has AC. You can look into a small circular window while the AC was on and if you saw liquid flowing, all was well. Is this true for a '95 Pathfinder with AC ? Else how can I know there is enough Freon in the system. Bought the vehicle used several months ago. Do HAVE to go to some SHOP and have it done ? DoctorBill

While at Spaulding Wrecking in Spokane, WA on Friday (7/31/09), I noticed a bucket on the counter that was filled with Remote Keyless Entry Senders - maybe 50 of them or more ! To my amazement, they want $3 each ! I have one Remote Keyless Entry Unit that the previous owner sold me with his '95 Pathfinder 4x4. It was "broken" and still on the Keychain - thank God he hadn't tossed it, cause I fixed it ! Just had a broken lever arm that contacts the inside switch. Some Gorilla Glue and it was back in business.... BUT - If I were to find a Nissan Pathfinder Keyless Remote in that bucket at the wrecking yard, could I get it to work for my Pathy ? How would I be able to tell what year the Remote (in the bucket) is for ? I'll bet a working 1995 Pathfinder Remote will be like finding gold nuggets in my backyard cat crapping spot ! I have a link I found in the Garage 'How To's' section... Fix Your Keyless Entry ! Has anyone had success in doing such a thing ? For me, electronics is like magic - Merlin the Magician stuff. I know an ohm from a volt - resistors, transistors, capacitors, coils, diodes, LED's, and solder...but not much more. Could I reprogram one of those Remotes in the bucket ? What year Keyless Remotes would work for a '95 Pathfinder ? Buying one for a '95 is very near impossible or very costly - they usually don't go back that far. CarandTruckRemotes.com ikeyless.com keylessride.com If anyone reading this knows of more links concerning Keyless Remote Transmitter reprogramming, fixing or sources for older ones, on this or other Forums, please add them in a reply. Maybe we can put together a Thread tying all these Keyless Remote Door Lock Openers together so folks don't have to "Search" until they puke... DoctorBill

Thanks for the Manual Link. In that Manual (pdf file), on page EM 16, that business with the "Feeler Gauge" makes absolutely no sense to me. What the Hell does one get from that feeler guage being in between the belt and the tensioner ? All one is doing is moving the TB with the feeler guage in between - by rotating the Crankshaft Pulley. A large Popcycle stick or someone's finger would go thru there if you rotate the Crankshaft hard enough ! What is supposed to happen ? Do words from on high come from the clouds and tell you something ? Maybe I am just slow.... ...and how do you push on the belt with 22 lbs force - a "Special Tool" ? I like the idea of twisting the belt 90° to test the tension (5523Pathfinder). "Once you've set the tension and back to TDC, you need to check that belt tension. Give the belt a twist and it should not go any further than 90 degrees. Any more than that and it will make noise. A little less, or tighter, is ok, but it may make noise also. The closer you get to a half twist the better!" How to Change Your Timing Belt ...the above quote is in Post #12. So many people have said so much - my head is spinning. This forum is like a maze. Does ANYONE "confirm" that Number One Piston is at the top ? What - a long screwdriver down into the open spark plug hole to see if the Piston is at the top ? Saw that mentioned by a couple people, also. DoctorBill

I tried to look for 88's thread, but got 14 gozillion results... (?) I was wondering if the method below would bleed the air out. Air would bubble out and only fluid could go back in. You could use Tygon Tubing from a Hardware store. Might have to keep the bottle or can level with the Transmission since the dipstick is open to the atmosphere. DoctorBill

Two questions - 1. Is the bolt or screw PLASTIC ?! 2. Where is the AAC Valve ? I am not very up on all the "stuff" on this engine ? Any pictures of it ? The Chilton Manual shows a photo - but it is a close up photo, so one cannot tell WTF it is on the engine... IUs it easy to access ? '95 Pathfinder - VG30E engine V6 - 4x4. DoctorBill

I will soon be adding an automatic transmission cooler after I change the Timing Belt. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23280 The Cooler Radiator (Hayden 514 - 7.5" x 15.5" size) is as tall as the AC Radiator and I plan to attach it in front of the AC Radiator - and it will have to be vertically oriented. Cannot be mounted horizontally ! Too big. http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail....895&PTSet=A Planning to use copper tubing to connect the cooler to the AT. Am wondering if I can bleed all the air out of the AT system (and the cooler radiator) somehow so no air gets into the cooler radiator. Or is it just the nature of the beast, maybe...? DoctorBill

I am replacing the Timing Belt and will have to refill the cooling system. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23280 The Chilton Manual shows three "bleed plugs", but I'll be damned if I can see them ! Do all three need to be opened when filling the system ? When I drained mine prior to the Timing Belt change, I did not get much coolant out. Soon I'll be refilling the coolant and I need to know. Thanks.

Yes, Adamzan, I know that - the picture was taken with the Tensioner just sitting there before I was going to install it. I was wondering if I had to somehow turn that spring to "wind it up" in some way so that the Tensioner maintains tension on the TB just by itself (if the nut were to loosen). This part of the installation is somewhat complicated. I should have been more observant of how it was set up before I removed it ... Hint to anyone reading this - for when YOU do it. I want to write this thread so that all questions are answered - for posterior.... This thread will be read for years to come - so I want it done right. DoctorBill

Hey - Terrano1992 - thanks for that information ! I've been trying to force the TB and been getting nowhere ! It is dark out now, so I'll have another go at it tomorrow... It has been "hotter than the Hinges of Hell" here south of Spokane, WA. I guess I am just feeling my age because I cannot take the heat - makes me sick. I got Heat Stroke once many years ago - dangerous. The heat can kill you before you realize it. Thanks again ! DoctorBill

Relatives gone and the "dog days of summer" are here - 96° F in the shade - unbearable in the sun ! Must wait until about 4 PM to have any shade to work in. Here is the Nissan Timing Belt - it has three YELLOW lines on it which line up with the Timing Marks on both Camshaft Pulleys and the Timing Belt Sprocket on the crankshaft. Nissan Part No. 13028-0B785 on the Box - 13028-0B700 on the belt itself (?) Used an 11 mm Box Wrench thru one of the Camshaft Pulley holes and jammed the pulley against the back cover plate as I torqued the Bolts to 65 ft-lbs. The Nissan Timing Belt was placed over the CS Pulleys with the markes lines up and the Belt Label Arrows pointing to the front. The TB was placed over the Timing Belt Sprocket at the bottom, but the mark on the Belt doesn't line up exactly due to the belt being loose. The Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley (TBTP) - Nissan Part No. 13070 - 42L00, was assembled with the Tensioner Spring - Nissan Part No. 13072 - 0B700 and an attempt was made to insert it....Ha ! There is no way that tensioner is going in there without prying the belt over it - which makes me very, very nervous....don't want to bugger the belt ! Besides, with the Timing Belt being "loose", I figure the TB Sprocket will move clockwise as I tighten the TB with the tensioner and will not be on the mark... I have to think about this conundrum. Maybe if I advance the TB Sprocket one tooth counterclockwise, replace the TB and when the belt is tightened all will line up. More to come.... DoctorBill

Now that I have the Water Pump, Thermostat and ByPass Hose installed, I replaced the back upper cover plate (4 bolts). I replaced the washer on the Main Crankshaft and the Timing Belt (TB) Sprocket. The Main Belt Pulley assembly was put back on to rotate the crankshaft by hand (not difficult) to exactly line up the mark (I had to look at the TB Sprocket from underneath to get it exact) on the Sprocket with the mark on the Oil Pump Housing. BTW - I "enhanced" that mark on the Oil Pump Housing with a square file - it was barely visible ! I replaced the R3 and L3 Camshaft Pulleys and when I looked for the Torque Wrench setting in the Chilton Manual or on 5523Pathfinder's Thread 5523Pathfinder's Timing Belt Thread I couldn't find a setting ! Lord ! WTF - THOSE TWO BOLTS SHOULD HAVE A TORQUE SETTING ! I'd guess maybe 60 - 70 ft/lbs....(?) Edited in on 7-31-09 at 10 PM - found the Torque Settings for the bolts from the 1993 Nissan Manual (below). Looks like 58 - 65 ft lbs. Have had visitors, couldn't do much - will resume task tomorrow.... DoctorBill

To replace the small 90° rubber bypass hose, I cut the hose I purchased (MasterPro - 20698 C0693) by placing the old one beside it and measured where to cut with a fresh single edge razor blade (SERB). The cut hose was then dropped into a pan of boiling water for 5 minutes to soften it – man that works well ! Use leather gloves as the hose will be hot – but it goes on VERY nicely when it is hot like that ! Don't forget to put the hose clamps on the hose before installing it ! Cleaned off the Thermostat housing ends with a SERB and used Blue RTV Silicone as the gasket material – thin bead – don't want it squeezing out inside and screwing up the cooling system. You don't need much ! The Nissan Thermostat is 76.5° C (Part 21200 – 42L01 on the Box) and the short end faces out (obvious) with the "Top" upward (where the air bleed is). Here it is, all assembled. I ironed the Water Pump (WP) gasket with the wife's iron – the gasket came kinked - in the package. Water Pump – Nissan Part No. 21010 – 12G28 - off the Box. Applied a THIN layer of NAPA Gasket Shellac to the WP edges and to the Gasket edges with a Q-Tip ( I left no fibers on it !)... ...and stuck the gasket to the WP - lining up the bolt holes immediately - gets tacky quickly. Applied the Gasket Shellac to the other side of the gasket and to the engine block where the WP goes. A Q-Tip works fine - just rotate it as you apply the shellac... I placed the old WP with the bolts in it on the top of the engine and transferred two bolts over to the new WP right away to hold the WP in place. Made sure the gasket was where it should be, then transferred the rest of the bolts to the new WP. Notice the 'weep hole' on my old Water Pump – was it leaking…? Tightened the larger M8 bolts to 14.5 ft/lbs and one small M6 bolt (at this point to hold the WP while the Shellac sets) to 6 ft/lbs as per the Chilton Manual. Now comes putting the Camshaft Pulleys back on... A man fell off a 60 story building... People at the windows heard him saying, "So far so good...so far so good!" .......from "The Magnificent Seven" movie. So far, it all looks good.... DoctorBill

Took the small 90° rubber hose out - way up inside behind the Thermostat. It is a bugger as there is little room to move it back off the pipe. The Thermostat had some rubbery gasket compound sealing it. Will remove it tomorrow. The area where the Water Pump (WP) sets was hosed down to wash off the remaining Coolant and the system was flushed out with the garden hose until clear water came out. I noticed that the gasket material left on the block softened up nicely once it was wet for a while. The softening with water made it much easier to use a single edged razor blade to scrape off the gasket. Note - take your time ! Go back over every area several times as it is amazing how you will keep finding gasket material that you missed ! I put the bolts back into the old Water Pump in their respective places (again - to keep track of which goes where) so that I could fit the new gasket (that came with the WP) onto the new pump. It came wrinkled. I will Iron it with me wife's clothes iron to make it flat. It is made of thick Paper.... The WP is just over 12 inches long - a ruler is in the photo. I think I will adhere the gasket to the new WP with some NAPA Gasket Shellac that I have. Comes in a small bottle with a "ball aplicator" on a wire inside the bottle. Not much - just enough to make it adhere... That way, it won't fall off as I try to get the WP back in place. You might be able to get it back w/o moving by leaving most of the bolts in the WP and then it might just stay in place hanging onto the bolts (?) That's enough for today....more later - putting the WP back on. I want to get this job done... DoctorBill PS - Magregor - I like your method of getting the Oil Seal over that lip - wish I had known about it a bit earlier... "Another way of installing the seal is getting a piece of plastic from a margarine container, cutting it in a rectangle, rolling it into a cylinder shape and wetting it with oil...you put it inside the seal and then shove the seal over the cylinder you fabricated with the margarine container. presto! I used that method a couple times to get the seal to go over a machined lip and it seems to work out ok... "

The cover of the Thermostat was removed (3 bolts) and taken off along with the Thermostat. Have a large pan or such under the vehicle to catch the released Coolant. I removed the remaining bolts from the Water Pump and immediately placed them in their respective holes in the New Water Pump in order to keep track of them - they are not all the same length ! Then I pulled the Water Pump off and quite a lot of Coolant dumped into the pan I had under the vehicle. Notice the old Gasket (arrow in photo) - The Gasket I got also has a portion going across the Pump's length. Odd. I still have to remove that small 90° hose above the Pump. But...with appologies to those waiting to see this finished, I am going to light up a nice Cigar (God's gift to men) and go sit in a lawn chair and contemplate the Cosmos, Dark Matter, our trees and watch the birds crap on everything. Looks like it might rain... Later Dudes. DoctorBill

This morning I "pulled" the Oil Seal out of the R3 Camshaft end. The seal rubber was brittle and crumbled. Probably the original - never replaced (?). Pushed a screwdriver into the rubber and made a hole in the Oil Seal. Then I shoved the "Seal Puller" hook into that hole and pried the old seal out. Cleaned and dressed the Oil Seal Well with Kleenex. Here is what the new seal looks like: I am presuming that side "B" (the hollow side with the long spring surrounding the center) goes into the Seal Well - thus keeping the long spring covered in oil so it won't corrode. That is how they were in there originally....(but that does not presume that it was originally done correctly, though !). The "arrow" on the back side shows a clockwise rotation - is that the way the Cam Pulley rotates ? I applied Grease to the outer edges (as the Chilton Manual says) and pushed the Seal into the Camshaft Well with my thumbs - went in easily (that's what she said...). I then used the old seal to tap it in as far as the other one is, with a rubber mallet. The old seal seats on the Camshaft allowing even pressure when tapping the new one in. Samo, samo with L3... Pulling L3 out... Now for the Front Crank Oil Seal (Nissan Part No. 13510 - 88G00) which did not come out easily... The Front Crank Oil Seal was more difficult to pull out. Stooping over and the shaft sticking out makes removing the seal harder. Once out, there is an inner lip over which the Oil Seal must go. Edit from later on - 8-23-09: Click on this link to find out how to insert this Oil Seal very easily. Post Number 234 - Oil Seal Insertion Method So...I soaked the Oil Seal in motor oil that I warmed up in the sun... ..and it still wouldn't go on without flipping (inverting) the inner rubber lip and disgorging the long round coil spring inside of it. Crappola.... Finally, in despiration, I slipped a small screw driver in between the seal and the shaft and "expanded" the seal's inner edge untill it slipped over the lip. I just hope to Hell that spring didn't come off and is now loose on the shaft inside the engine...! But - that is now taken care of - TCO. More to come... DoctorBill

Blackspawn - Lord no ! Maybe a day or less. I sent you a message. Bought a "Seal Puller" at Harbor Freight for $5 today. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=35556 Then bought the two large coolant hoses (GATES) at Schuck's for $32 total. It is hotter than Hell out today. Nap time.... Relatives coming to visit....may slow down even more (is that possible ?). More to come tomorrow... DoctorBill

The Timing Belt Sprocket just pulls off of the shaft..and has a big washer behind it - has a "key" also ! Remember that one side has the Punch Mark on it - "Time to dress that up, Private !" ...and reveals the Crankshaft Oil Seal All the rust I am seeing pisses me off ! A DoctorBill truism...A clean engine is a rusty engine ! I am going to coat the driveshaft itself, the sprocket and big pulley holes with axle grease when I re-assemble it ! Taking all these pictures, running into use my computer to resize them, crop, dodge and/or burn them on Photoshop LE, then annotate them, then upload them to Photobucket, then write the text immediately so's I don't forget the important details, get the image files and paste them into the text, then go into this Forum and add a reply (or edit) - takes me about 10 times longer to do this repair than it normally would. But I am having a Ball ! I teach Chemistry at Spokane Community College (have a PhD in Biochemistry from U.C. Davis, CA) and actually like to teach...I suppose because I can't do anything else, Huh? Not true! If you can't do anything else - become a Marketing Manager ! Or maybe a Congress person or President of the USA... More to come - after a snack, a cigar and a beer in my lawn chair - while I enjoy this nice summer day....I'm pooped. It is almost 8 PM. Looking closer at the R3 Oil Seal, I found that it is broken (rubber edge loose). Question to throw out - will I have to drain the oil before I pull out the Crankshaft Front Oil Seal ? Am I going to get oil dumped on me? DoctorBill