DoctorBill

Every once in a while, in Winter usually, a car door will start squalling and squeaking when opened or closed. I usually spray oil on the hinges or that horizontal lever (what is it called?) that keep the door from closing. BUT - Sometimes nothing seems to fix the sound - which is very grating ! What causes that noise and how can I fix it. Is it from the Salt they use on the roads ? My Geo Metro looks like it was driven thru the Ocean surf - all white with salt and it is too cold out to hose it off ! I don't want any damage to happen to my nice pretty Pathfinder now that I fixed the Timing Belt and Exhaust Manifold. Some Jack Off will probably drive into it in the WalMart parking lot and then leave w/o telling me about it. It happened before! DoctorBill

Yes....but we LIKE to fsck with it....! Then we come here to ask questions. We are all just a bunch of fsckers..... DoctorBill

Were I you, I would remove the PCV Valve, pour or squirt SeaFoam into the PCV hole and put in a NEW PCV Valve, let it set overnight and then maybe repeat it (sans the new valve, of course.). I just ran a bottle thru my '93 Geo Metro's gas and also drowned the engine with it - let it set overnight and started her up again. Did not get the huge cloud of smoke predicted by many posters on the Geo Metro Web site wherein I have been known to lurk about... Geo Metro Web Site I may try it in my '95 Pathfinder V6 - XE, but right now it is 2° F outside and I don't even want to leave my nice warm chair to pee.... DoctorBill

Do you think maybe I should open the Hubs up again and wipe some of the grease out with Kleenex - it was a rather thin grease (got some on my hands). Now's the time as our weather has gone back up into the 30's and 40's.... If I go on a gravel road and 4 wheel, I'd need someone to stand outside and watch the wheels - no one available. Since the Hubs are so nice and clean and well greased, I think I will just ASSume that they will work. It will become obvious in the snow, whether they work or not. They will ! - I have faith in my Pathfinder (and Japanese know how)..... DoctorBill

Really ! THAT MUCH grease seems excessive ? ! Frankly, I have no idea whether the Hubs work or not ! I went out on a gravel road in the spring and put it in 4WD when I was buying the Pathfinder, but I couldn't tell if it was in Four Wheel.... ...I'm a novice with automatic hubs. If I put the vehicle in 4WD and jacked up the front end, dropped it out of 4WD, couldn't I test if the hubs were engaged by turning one side and the other wheel would turn also ? Something like that ? Also....should the hubs get too cold of a morning, I would pour hot water on them to free up the grease. Leave the "Pretty Sleeves" off of the hubs. Also again...I have no idea what that grease is in the Hubs now. Yes...I know what is coming...take them apart, clean off the grease, and then put grease on them myself. Then I will know what grease is on them....I am lazy, though. DoctorBill

Today the weather cleared up, so I removed the Automatic Hubs to see what was there - given that I bought the vehicle used. Here is what was there... I think that either the previous owner never went off road and/or they took care of the hubs. In good order. No rust and they were greased well - so - "Don't fix it if it ain't broke." Here is my wife's '97 Suzuki Sidekick hub which I will open up sometime soon to have a look at. These have gaskets which I will have to buy new or cut from gasket material. DoctorBill

I have been applying "Sili-Kroil" to the bolts on the Automatic Hubs for 2 days now. Yesterday I applied a vibrating marker to the inside of some of the bolts to try to vibrate the rust buster into the threads. I used a 6 mm Allen Wrench in a ratchet wrench and applied pressure up to a point and just waited. I was worried that I might snap one or more of the bolts off ! After applying pressure for maybe 10 to 15 seconds all six bolts slowly started to rotate...got them all off. Some had grease on the bolt end and none of the Rust Buster had migrated all the way along the bolt to the threads ! Maybe had I waited several more days to a week... Anyway - I got them all off and cleaned the threads by squeezing them in a Kleenex with the edge of my thumbnail and turning them out - the Kleenex in the turning threads got any crap out (were fairly clean). I applied Permatex Anti-Seize Compound to all of the bolts, screwed them in and out in order to distribute the compound thru-out the threads and then put them all back since it started raining....had to stop. Following TERRAN1992's advice, I bought a tube of LubriMate White Lithium Grease N.L.G.I. #2 (Code # 11354) at the Autostore and will disassemble the Hubs when the weather permits. I have to work outside - Garage full of crap ! Should I jack the Front End up off the ground to do this? I.E. - Remove the wheel ? DoctorBill

TERRANO1992 - You said, (quote) "And some advice: do not place excess grease inside the hub. Apply thick layer of grease only to hub bottom, i.e. "crown" and ball bearing. Other surfaces should be greased very slightly. Excess grease gets thick when cold (even recommended to use "Nissan KRC19-00025" or "Shell AeroGrease #7") and makes a problem with hubs engaging/disengaging." Question.... Given the fact that I live in winter cold weather area (gets to -10°F or -24°C), would it be better to use a couple drops of thick oil like the 90W transmission oil to lube these hubs versus any grease. ? It may be thick in winter, but may not get as viscous as a grease would become.... That is to say - it would flow instead of just sitting there ! DoctorBill

I wonder why the exploded diagram in the FSM doesn't show that sleeve as part of the exploded diagram ?! That's what 'exploded' means ! They have it as "Housing with sub-assembly".....how odd ! So that sleeve slides in and out to engage and disengage the splined axle shaft ? If so, then lubing the hub casing and sub-assembly is very important to its function and dirt or rust would cause it to freeze...yes? Has anyone had to replace these parts or do you just chuck the whole thing and get another at a wrecking yard ? ...and why do they call those two parts "brakes" ? DoctorBill

NavyP503 - Question What is the object in your hand in the 5th picture with the broom and Red Rag in the background ? It is very large and does not look like anything in the Diagram from the FSM....or in your 3rd photograph. Is that a "sleeve" that goes INTO the outer hub casing shown on the left in your third photograph (upper left on top row) ? BTW - was your "O" Ring in good shape ? Any internal rust ? Our posts are overlapping and I didn't see your answer! If anything is broken or corroded, can the internal parts be had from Nissan ? DoctorBill

Holy Hubs, Batman! I sure didn't expect someone to take pictures of the hubs being taken apart, NavyP503 !...and such nice photos! Thank you so very much for that effort ! I had looked in the Chilton Manual and saw essentially zip (some tiny unreadable diagram) and figured the FSM would be the same - wrong! I apologize for not thinking of the FSM before asking about this....I'm losing it! So I found the FSM's explanation (Section FA, Pages 19 - 25). Here is a blowup of the Automatic Hub Diagram. BTW - there is an exploded diagram of the Manual Hub in there also - end of post. Was your hub rusty inside, NavyP503 ? Was the "O" ring in good shape ? I would imagine that the big "O" ring could be purchased almost anywhere...(?) Has anyone ever had any of the outer Bolts break off while taking them out ? On my wife's Geo Tracker, I replaced the Allen Head Bolts with SS Hex Head Bolts and applied Anti-Seize before re-installing them. DoctorBill

I was trying to search for a link to servicing the '95's Automatic 4WD Hubs. Couldn't find anything except how to change them out to Warn Hubs. My wife's Geo Tracker Manual Hubs wouldn't switch (stuck in Disengaged), so I took them apart and greased them. Lot of Rust on one side. I figure maybe my used '95 V6-XE's automatic hubs could be the same. Is there a good link (with pictures?) on how to open these babies up and Lube them ? Wouldn't want to rush in where Angels fear to tread and have the Hub go "Sproing!" and have a nightmare on my hands.... I recently bought my '95 used and I'll bet the Automatic Hubs have never been serviced at all. DoctorBill

Took the Pathfinder in Yesterday (Sunday Morning) and left it. One of the Mechanics showed up a while later and drove it into the shop. Today they fixed the Right Side E.M. One Stud was broken off (Front) and they drilled it and took it out with a "Reverse Drill" for $60. The other stud I couldn't feel with my fingers was a BOLT - toward the rear. Cost: $310.88 $180.00 Labor ($75/hour) $ 60.00 removing the broken Stud. $ 37.50 R&R Studs in Manifold for Header Pipe. $ 8.50 Shop Supplies (?) $ 24.88 WA State Sales tax. I had them apply "Anti-Seize" to the Stud Threads and Use Permatex Copper High Temp Spray-On Gasket Compound (which I provided). He said the Manifold was flat. Also said the Left Manifold is ticking - small leak up front. Did I want to make an appointment for that....? Later.....! Had to leave it there for me to pick up tonight when I can get a ride into Spokane. Don't know how it sounds - had to leave. Question - is the Left side Manifold very hard to work on ? Could it wait until next Spring !? I might tackle it if it isn't some Gawd-Awful type thing. Will driving it with the Left Side ticking hurt anything? Some comments from the mechanic who did the work: (I always ask multiple questions. That is how I learn things.) Someone had worked on it before and used some BLUE material on the Gasket and that material had crapped out and exhaust had forced a way thru it. He didn't know what it was - could someone have used Blue RTV ? So - $311 plus the Studs and Gasket I had spent $61 on - Total $372 for the Right Manifold. I guess I didn't do too bad, huh ? I wonder how long the R&R will last now.....? AND - I hope this vehicle was worth all this ! Winter snows coming and with all this "Global Warming" Bullcrap, I hope my Pathfinder will bulldoze thru the snow - with those "Automatic Hubs" and all ! DoctorBill

So I'm in our Small Town country Farm Supply Hardware Store buying hardened Steel Bolts and Nuts by the pound (refreshing change from "Bubble Packs" in everything pre-packaged Stores), and as I' leaving I see about a dozen bottles of "SeaFoam" on a shelf ! I have heard of this "Miracle Elixer" on some forums and there seems to be a cult surrounding it. I'm figuring - if a bunch of Farmers are buying it, maybe it is good stuff. Then again, if a bunch of Farmers are buying it, maybe I should not buy it... Supposedly just Kerosene and Isopropyl alcohol. So I thought why not start a discussion thread about this "elixer". Is it worth the almost $9 a pint to use it in my Gasoline ?...or oil ? Will it cure all my car's ailments? Would my riding mower benefit from it's magic application? Should I give some to my wife to drink.... DoctorBill

Lord! Now I know why I don't want to do this job myself ! Today I went out and removed the cover plate on the right side exhaust manifold. It started snowing ! There is almost no room to get at the damned thing ! Once the cover plate was off, I hosed as many of the stud nuts with "Sili-Kroil" rust loosener, that I could get at, so that maybe they will come off easily when the mechanic works on it this coming Monday ($75/hour - 2.5 hours supposedly). I found at least TWO of the Studs/Nuts missing ! One was the second from the left on top and another was underneath (toward the front ???). They either broke off or were not installed - probably the former. I pity that mechanic having to work on that manifold - what a crap job! At least he has a lift. I hope he knows to take the wheel off and go at the manifold that way. I also went to our Farm Hardware Store today and purchased six of the nuts that hold the manifold on plus the three that hold the Exhaust pipe to the manifold. A true hardware store - nuts and bolts (all grades) are sold by weight ! Not in plastic 'bubble packs' like the dime store type hardwares stores now. $2.87 for 9 nuts and three washers by weight. So...I expect that another $150 - $200 at least will be added to the cost to take out the broken off studs...I wonder how long it will take per broken stud ? Thank God the engine side of the stud is short - only about 14 mm deep. What does it cost to plane the manifold flat (more or less)? DoctorBill

What I did below was on the advice of 5523Pathfinder..... I went to Jaremko Nissan today and purchased the Right Side Exhaust Manifold Gasket and the six Nissan Studs and they talked me into buying the studs that connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. I must be an easy 'mark'.... Notice from the Picture that the Stud Packages say "Stud Turbo Chg" on them. Also the Gasket is Metalized. Also the Gasket label does not say Left or Right - must be symmetrical. Do the Studs have that #8 HARDNESS look ? The Part Numbers are: Gasket (Rt Side) 14037 - V5000 $34.38 Gave me a "Deal" @ $27.50 Studs (six) 14064 - N420A $4.24 ea The 'Deal' ....@ $3.53 ea Updated part number (?) Connector Studs (3) 14065 - V5004 $4.56 ea The 'Deal' @ $3.80 ea. Total was $60.89 + WA State Tax.= $66.19 At Schuck's this would have been about HALF the above price. On the way out, I visited the Repair Dept and asked what they would charge for the labor to replace the Right Exhaust Manifold. The guy told me $383 (didn't even have to look it up !) and $50 for each broken Stud that has to be drilled out. The mechanic at a local shop I frequent wants $190 (never asked what he charges to drill out broken studs !) DoctorBill PS - Oh BTW...I saw the New Nissan "Cube" in the showroom ! Lord God in Heaven.....Hideous beyond all attempts to describe ! Worse than the Honda "Element" - a big version of the "Smart Car" ! Looks like some psychopath NERD with bad vision designed it. Is this what our future holds in store for us ? ------> The CUBE <------

I really, really don't want to do this job myself, what with late Fall's rains, freezing nights, and 30 mph winds in this wheat country (rolling hills)... ...but I will bet the mechanic won't want me telling him to use bolts instead of studs and wanting Permatex Copper Gasket compound used on the Gasket. Mechanics tend to think THEIR way and anyone with the audacity to ask or even want it done a certain way, get ugly stares and "well, I can't guarantee the job then!" said to them. What is funny is, the "guarantee" NEVER includes the labor - which is usually the majority of the cost ! What do I care about a $16 gasket when the whole thing cost $250 !? That is actually funny ! Ya, right.... One thought - I read in someone's post that they used Bolts and tightened them up every year. Why? Why would Bolts be any more likely to loosen up than the Studs would ? I guess I'll order the Schuck's materials and arrange for the shop to do the labor and hope it all works out. I'll take a metric nut for the M8 x 1.25 Stud with me to examine the threads just to be sure I am getting the "right stuff". Once done, I'll post the results back here....may take a week or so... Funny thing - once you start working on your own car, you don't trust other mechanics to mess with your 'baby'... DoctorBill

Wow! Didn't expect so many comments on this thread. More information from Spokane.... I called Jaremko Nissan here and found the parts Dept prices for NISSAN parts. Gasket - $34.38 part No. 14037 - V5000 Studs - $3.99 each Part No. 14065 - V5004 He doesn't know the grade of steel ! Total $58.32 If I use Schuck's stuff, $24.93 and the studs are Grade 8. If I used simple M8x1.25 x 30 mm - probably cost even less. Now...what are my chances that the mechanic will break off one or more of the old studs? What are the chances that one or more of the old studs are already broken off What are the chances that an old stud like me will get any soon ? ..and... DoctorBill

I called Schuck's about the FelPro Gasket Set (have it) and about the Dorman Studs (had ONLY one !). Is the FelPro Gasket "Metalized" on one or both sides ? I asked if the stud was Metric - he went and looked and gave me English thread size ! So, now I don't know if I can trust O'Reilly's web site.... Here is the photo from O'Reilly's web site: Are both ends of this stud Metric ? Which end goes into the Engine Block - the shorter end ? If so, then that must be the M8x1.25 that Precise1 talked about.... What is it's overall length ? 30 mm ? This $1.50 stud at Schuck's is apparently the same stud that CourtesyParts.com wants $3.76 (plus shipping costs) for... CourtesyParts.com's E.M. Studs ...and CourtesyParts.com doesn't even say Grade 8 or not. Schuck's ---> 6 x $1.49 = $8.94 or CourtesyParts (Nissan) ---> 6 x $3.76 = $22.56 plus $10 shipping. Would buying Stainless Steel Bolts (M8x1.25x30mm) do any good ? I suppose slathering the threads with Anti-Seize Compound would help...if I ever needed to do this again (?) ALSO - Should the mechanic use a gasket compound like Permatex's Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Sealant ? DoctorBill

OK....FelPro is fine I suppose. As to the Studs or Bolts - O'Reilly sells many "Sets" - see link below O'Reilly Ex Man Bolt "Sets" Thanks for the offer Precise1 ! I'll get everything at O'Reilly (Schuck's here in Spokane, WA) Which set do you fellows recommend ? Or buy each stud ? - 6 needed (counted the holes in the gaskets) I see some are labeled Number 8 Steel. Once I do this, will it ever likely start leaking again ? We are getting some light snow now and then, so I am getting the 'old girl' ready to walk me thru the drifts so I can get "to town" and do my thing. I'll keep my "Automatic Hubs". My little Geo Metro doesn't cut it when the snows come! DoctorBill PS - I see the Forum Updated the Software.....very nice !

Bolts or studs ? How many are required for the Right Side Manifold ? (left side if facing the engine from the front of the vehicle) ? What is the "standard" way to refer to the "sides" on an engine? Sounds like the Manifold is held down with nuts, but you used Hex Head Bolts? Where did you buy them? I have a Farm Supply here in my backwater small town that has #8 bolts - no studs. Did you have trouble getting them out ? Does a soak with something like "Kano Sili-Kroil" loosen them up ? I am worried that a "meat hands" mechanic will bust a stud when trying to remove them (you know - trying to do the job in the allotted "book time") and then have to drill it out and ruin my engine....(but I don't want to do it myself!). FelPro - from O'Reilly $16 FelPro Ex Man Gasket "Set" the Rol set cost 2x as much....made out of Platinum ? $30 Rol Ex Man Gasket "Set" wow! DoctorBill the worrier.

Well, my Timing Belt and Transmission Cooler seem to be working well so far after I posted the long, extended, verbose diatribe of several months ago. So far - so good. Now. I want to get the Right Exhaust Manifold (when sitting in the driver's seat) fixed so it doesn't "tick" anymore. Is the OEM Gasket from Nissan any better than anyone else's gaskets ? Is it Manifold "A" or Manifold "B" [14036M] GASKET-EXHAUST MANIFOLD,A [14036N] GASKET-EXHAUST MANIFOLD,B http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?chassis_id=31&keywords=manifold+gasket&Submit_Button=Go&cat=1 Where do I purchase the "better" bolts for the repair - the old ones were weak (no?). What are they called so I can ask a parts clerk the right questions? The mechanic wants $190 (4.5 hours labor) for the job. I want to buy the parts. I'd do it myself, but it is winter and I am getting tired of working on cars because I am an old, tired curmudgeon and bending over the fender and cutting my hands up is not something I want to do anymore. Right now, it is worth $190 to watch some other poor soul do the work... DoctorBill 1995 V6-XE 4x4.

I finally found the connectors shown previously by BONZ at "Standard Battery", a shop specifically selling Lead Acid Batteries here in Spokane, WA. These damned things are $14 each half (you need two!) - so they are $28 plus tax....! ...and I'd have to solder wires into them. And those are only 50 amp dudes. I will go buy the WARN connector (somewhere) for $32 with wires already on them. Or I will solder on some big Copper Lugs and connect them with bolts & Wing Nuts when I place the Winch into the Hitch. I bought BIG 70 amp fuses that look like the normal two blade fuses, but are 3 times larger. Do you think the places that sell those big fuses would sell the fuse holder - hell no ! I plan to have the Positive wire UNCONNECTED in the engine compartment and have a Jumper Cable type clamp on the end of it. I'll connect it when I use the Winch, after I have bolted the two wires together at the back of the Vehicle. Dealing with the electrical portion of having a winch has been frustrating in the extreme. At least here in Spokane. Anything to do with winches appears to be very costly. Don't mess with one unless you make a really good income. DoctorBill

I couldn't find the Comeup type connectors at a local welding shop. The guy looked at me like I was crazy.... (?) I looked "On Line" via Google and didn't find "ComeUp" anything. Who manufactures these connectors? Warn sells connectors that look similar for $32 each ! Jesus - that is a LOT for a freaking plastic connector ! Bulldog (?) sells one for $30 - never seen them for sale anywhere, tho. BullDog Winch Connector Also - I had no intention of grounding the Winch to the receiver ! I know about THAT. I will run a ground wire to the Frame - a good one. DoctorBill PS - Pathfinder working fine after the TB Change. No fluid leaks at all - not a drop !

No one has put down here how they make an electrical connection with a Portable Winch. Not asking about the wires - I have purchased 10 gauge red wire - the frame will be ground. What connectors would you put on the back of the vehicle and on the Winch Wires ? Most Trailer Connectors are not made for the amperage the Winch would draw. I am supposing that those Yellow Wire Crimped Male & Female Plug/Socket type "Bannana" Plug" things might work. I plan on soldering a Jumper Cable type squeeze clamp on the end by the Battery so that I can leave it unconnected until just before needed. I will also put a large amp Slow Blow Fuse on the red Positive wire close to the Battery. DoctorBill