speedbuggy67

I just swapped a 95 pathfinder 4x4 trans into my 92 pathfinder and i'm having problems getting the speedo cable to work. I know the 95 is electronic and 92 isn't. IS there a trick to swapping them or making them work? I did a search but haven't found a good answer. Whats the trick? Scott

Maybe this is a silly question but from what my eyes see can i put a r50 trans or xterra trans into my 92 pathfinder and it work fine? I have an automatic but would think a newer trans would work better then me getting a junkyard wd21 transmission. Any help would be appreciated. i did search and didn't really come up with any answers on differences in wiring or anything. Im guessing vg30/vg33 would be interechangable. Is the gearing the same in the trans? I feel you might not be able to put a wd21 trans in a r50 or xterra since its not obd2 but an obd2 trans might work in a obd1 truck... scott

My tension rod/compression rod on the passenger side was starting to oval out the ends so be careful. Rust was also a factor in mine. It always seemed like the tires were bouncing on the highway once i hit a bump. if i slammed on the brakes it stopped... going over 45 was almost impossible. You can see the rod from the lower control arm to the frame... good luck. Scott

lol yup birfield is the part of the solid axle front end... the joint on each side. A toyota purist would go nutts for me even putting it up there in a neg... i retract that statement only issues birfields have are both when the oil seal goes bad and washes out the grease in the axle and when overloaded offroad with tires etc they break. Nissan steering isn't known to be strong either when loaded up with 33 or bigger meat..... Toyota 4wd owner mag still comes to my house bi-monthly... i'd get the nissan one except they haven't made it yet... Scott

Agree on the solid axle part but i think i can vouch for "saltroad" states we dont' have any 85and older 4runners and pickups so they aren't even a choice... 90's landcruisers yes... but i tried to compare pathy to 4runner and hardbody to 95 older pickup as all are the under 5k pricetag after that frontier/taco's take over... I'd argue the e-locker debate but taco's didn't get the option til 98 TRD in 6cyl only form and 4runner i believe 96 or 97 started it but that died in 00-01 when "traction control" took over... I still swear by toyota's just can't justify the price but sure they have a great aftermarket... new market for new market its close though but old school toyota has the lead by far...

Prior to me getting the pathfinder i was a hard core toyota guy. Despite not owning any toyota 4x4's although had 2 84 rwd celicas with 22re's i swore by toyotas until getting my high mileage 92 pathfinder for a steal. I never planned on loving the path, even more then a toyota but price led me here but overall build is making me stay. I still frequent the toyota forums but can't justify the upcharge just for the name. it seems 22re's and the 3.slow in the 'runners and pickups had their share of headgasket issues esp the 3.0 with burning valves and so forth. Birfields were a problem wiht them as well as cv's spinning all the time prematurely wearing them(click click click) Seems comparing the pathfinder with a 80's or early 90's 4runner or pickup we have a much better truck. vg30's run forever and take a HUGE beating, manual trans are gold if filled properly, and auto's are great with aftermarket coolers. Stock LSD's on se's as well as 31in tires. Best of all they're cheaper!!! COmparing apples to apples why has toyota gotten such a following over Nissan. Anyone else converted? Scott ps down the road when the pathfinder needs a replacement the 00-01 xterra or 97-98 4runner with 3.4 would be a close comparison both with frames and reliability(toyota E-locker in the rear too!!!)....

all of em in the 90's were white and 80's were orange if i recall correctly... Scott

def try the lucas even put in a second bottle i did. I bought my pathy with 204 and the orig trans was slipping esp in 2nd gear the trans cooler was clogged so i have an external one on it and 2 1/2yrs later and 219k on the ticker trans is still fine even with offroad abuse. The second isn't perfect but the rest of the gears are rock solid. The TRICK is unplug the gray plug on the passenge side of the engine above the tire its some sort of pressure resistor for the trans. When unplugged it basically gives the trans all the pressure it can make not regulate it and it helped my truck live on(now that pesky frame rot is a diff story) I know my brothers in laws 93 was unplugged an when his new used trans was installed (350 at a junkyard www.carparts.com) we had to plug it back inas the trans would bang between gears once plugged back together it was fine. mines been unplugged over 2yrs no side effects other then the power button light flashes 8-9 times when the truck is started. I learned this from an old school trans/mechanic that did this same thing on early 90's maximas for years to extend the life on them. Try it out you have nothing to lose only gain reverse! Scott

Im a full time fireman in northern NJ and yesterday we went to the towns highschool to cut up cars as a demonstration why NOT to drink and drive for prom weekend and many people donate cars to us for this purpose. we had about 7 cars to cut up (one for each period) then they are towed away by the wrecker that brought them and they get paid to dispose of them soreally not our property. Anyway one flatbed pulled up with a perfectly fine 90-91 black SE pathfinder started it up drove it across the lot backed it to the curb (along with an early 90's buick that ran fine too) I don't think either had titles but it was murder cutting the poor pathfinder up, and it was in good but neglected shape. no frame rust!!! i couldn't believe it esp for a salty jersey truck. had 220k on the ticker although it ran fine no tap tap tap tap on startup from manifold leak either. well its a convertable now unfortunately and since its not our property no way to "save" them or even take parts its not worth losing my job or pension over something like this. Guys were joking how it was in better shape then my 92SE.....Makes me wonder how many go to the crusher this way...... Scott ps the kids were more concerned with the 92 3 series bmw that didnt rub but looked in GREAT shape....

i always keep my tires inflated around 40psi they tires are rated to hold more but its like riding a bike whats easier low air or keeping them hard? Think of it this way your getting what 15-18mpg but how much are you saving cause the pathy is so reliable? If you had a crappy american car you'd be spending more to get it fixed so it all balances out in the end. Now a lil jap car to commute...... Scott

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/spe...oo/P7080176.jpg click link ^ not sure if you can see fromthis pic but both my brother in law and my pathy have the whip antenna with allen screw mount attached to the center of where the spare tire carrier is so its very low profile from prying eyes. we bent the cb mount slightly but it looks great and ran the wire under the truck behind the mudflap there is a rubber plug and up and in there! This pic was at www.paragonap.com the second park before theyclosed it. Yes the pathy did come outof this on its own power the jeepers were lauging til i rocked his truck out! good luck! Scott

i have the procomp 9000's they ride great huge improvement over the stocker and don't ride harsh. the 3000's ive heard ride more harsh. From what ive read the 9000's and bilsteins have simlar specs. good luck. BTW i don't have boots and they're fine. After how many atv's are sold with boots and they are in the mud all the time? Scott

My frame in the rear is not fully boxed anyore its a C frame now i banged out all the loose rust and welded over it after taking rust precautions. Under the rear seat isn't so hot anymore either. Truck runs like a top at 215k miles i just wheeled it this past weekend. I agree with the first post it might be worth getting something for the truck then nothing but a rusted hulk. Just remember they can be donated to the local fire departments for training purposes and you get a tax writeoff. I know with my full time FD many cars come with parts missing so semi stripping the cars but leaving structural parts is ok. To me, i'd at least see somoene learn off my pathfinder maybe even save a life, then see it go to the heapyard or donated to these cancerfunds and then sent to the heapyard after being stripped. No one wants to see their baby cut up but.......... This truck gave me alot of faith in pathfinders i have 2 of my close friends to purchase wd21's due to the price, LSD, live forever, and overall great trailbeater. Toyota's of similar quality are 1-3k dollars more and you get the 3.slow head gasket blowing engine. thanks nissan for building the rest of the truck great at least. Scott

i hear ya on the misting from teh tires but im still running the fender liner and i cut the pvc ina slash cut so it should be ok as i ive check the airbox after a DEEP water crossing (tires covered) and no prob plus heavy jersey rains so far so good. One day maybe i'll cut the fender but til then.... BTW any more pics of the truck back together with the toyos'? They look just like the cooper STT's. how bad did mileage drop wtih that combo? I'd imagine to 15 or so. Scott

seems high on the price, and i feel your pain on the toyota's im a big toyota guy but you can't beat the price and durability of the pathfinders. The VG30 lasts forever and makes more power then the toyota 22re (toyota's 3.0 is a ticking timebomb wiht headgaskets) the SE nissans come with a rear LSD a great thing plus 31's stock, the diffs are super strong, lifting them 2-2 1/2 inches is super cheap and easy with cranked front torsen bars and some jeep grand cherokee v8 spring (front) on the rear. Comparing them to cherokee's is tough but overall pathies are cheaper to maintain and cherokees have the easily breakable dana 35's and what 4.0 doesn't leak oil or have had an overheating issue? The downsides to a pathfinder is the rear frame rot (believe me i have it) at least here in the rust belt, underneath the back seat rot, and leaky exhaust manifold, mine clears up after 2-3min of driving. Overall mileage doesnt scare me just rust or the trannies. Mine had 214 doesn't leak or burn oil or anythin runs like a top and everyone else seems to say the same thing. good luck and i think you'll make the right decision. Scott

is it the same tranny or stronger/weaker? scott

aries thats a good lookin truck! Same color as mine but sits pretty nice. What is your lift/tire combo? Any more pics? Are those cooper stt's? IT appears to be different tires in the last pics opposed to the first one. here's my email for pics speedbuggy67@netzero.net good stuff. I did the same snorkel mod but didn't have it exit the fender like you did and didn't remove the fender to do it i reused the facotry elbow fr the silencer box and ran 2in pvc twards the fender hinges for additional air to the box. I still have thought of running another 2in pvc from the front hole of the box to the door hinges. I don't ever plan on going through windshield deep water but fear the "bow wake" when entering andgoing through water hence why i decide to suck the air from the hinge area. Nice pics and good mod. Scott

i steel wheels and mud tires gave good mileage woudn't every new eco-friendly car come with them? at tires or all seasons are lighter and roll easier its a proven fact then a mud tire. Mud tires are good for mud.... steel wheels are heavier then alum so more rolling mass plus its more weight for the truck to turn so its simple physics so def no BS there! I would have loved ot replace the ugly lego's on the pathy with some fashionably functional black steelies but it doesn't make sence in my case. I'll stick to the at's on alum wheels. A good driver can make up the difference on the trail anyhow next to the novice with his fashionable functional rig. Just a personal opinion. just as another point ive noticed my larger then stock exhaust did help power but didn't help mileage ( more air in and out requires more fuel) but the more open intake alone did help mileage and power. I took off my silencer part of the airbox and ran a 2in 90deg elbow to 2in pvc eliminating the factory silencer box and a nice deep growl and better overall driveability was the outcome. Scott ps- yeah you want mileage buy something economical......

i have my at's at 40psi def keeps it rolling longer but if you have crappy shocks its gonna really suck. my procomp 9000's do a great job of taming the 31's bounce at the high pressure. I think air pressure if the key thing for mileage that you can do. good luck. Remember they weren't made for mileage. my 92 maxima i recently aquired with the vg30 does great on gas so its def the weight of the pathfinder plus its aerodynamics that hurt it. Mud tires and steel wheels are def a recipe for poor mileage. scott

i had dynomax superturbo purchased from summit for bout 50 bucks installed at a mineke for 120 cash did a great job wiht the 2in muffler 2.25in piping. Each places work reflects the owner/mechanic so can't say all midas or mineke are bad. this guy does all the local ricers cars and does nice work. My dynomax super turbo isn't loud at all nice deep tone when warmed up when cold sounds quiet as stock. I'd highly recommend it not tinny at all. Any straight through muffler aka magnaflow will be loud. I think most big name companies make this style of muffler i know dynomax does but not sure what the model that is. Super turbo flows and is known to be cheap/quiet. 2 thins i was looking for. Good luck. Scott

bigger piping isn't always better esp when your pipes "upstream" are only 1.75inch. the object with any exhaust is to flow and hot gases flow quickly and efficiently. Bigger piping sometimes can slow the flow and exhaust scavaging is an issue. Going up from 1.75in to 2in is a 1/4in differece plus a higher flowing muffler is already going to be a big help. i chose 2in muffler and 2.25in piping as muffler shops "crush bend" thepipes so the inner diameter is smaller so a 2.25in over our axle is really only around 2in internally. Good luck hope that helps. Its a known fact that using too big of piping will kill low end power and move it more upstairs in teh rpm range. We have a pathfinder not a 300zx so choose wisely. Scott

Just got my 2in dynomax super turbo muffler installed along wiht 2.25in piping due to the crush bends over the axle so its really 2in internally and the truck has great power all over the rpm range certainly woke the vf30 up. Im glad i went with the 2in muffler and 2.25in piping certainly kept my low rpm torque which was very important to me. the sound is slightly louder then stock esp at 2-3k rpm not loud at all near redline which is even better. Took roughly 2hrs to do and cost 120 cash for the piping and bout 50 bucks for the muffler from summitracing.com Scott

Im not quite sure why everyone recommends 3in piping or even 2.5in piping for that matter. Maybe my age is showing through again but exhaust velocity is what give you the horsepower and torque. A turbo car requires 2.5in or 3in piping since the turbo is creating backpressure enough for the engine. Why a NA car or truck would need anything that large is obsurd. A true stepped design exhaust will keep the exhaust gases hot which flow faster then cooler gases hence header wrap or HPC coating. IF you want to lose your low end power at 1500-2500rpm then go large if you choose to keep it don't go larger then 2.25in on the catback. If the header pipe is 2.5in a 2.25in catback will certainly flow plenty and won't be bottlenecked if you choose a proper exhaust. The factory piping on a pathfinder is 1.75in. Measure your broken tailpipe its true! This is a 150hp v6 mill 2in or 2.25in is plenty. Mine actually just broke off within the past week and i ordered a dynomax super turbo muffer which flows great cost 40bucks from summit racing and has fiberglass packing which bottom line has a deep ton thats not intrusive in the cabin or have a drone to it like some straight through mufflers like magnaflow. If a mom/pop exhaust shop bend the pipe remember they have crush bends not mandrel bends so if you choose 2.25in piping its really closer to 2in which should be fine if your just changing the catback. Stock mufflers are our #1 restriction. change that and it will flow a bunch better. PM me if you need more info. remember FLOW is key. Bigger piping makes gases cooler slowing the flow which is bad. good luck. Scott

my tailpipe just broke off my orig nissan muffler today guess it was due i have 213k miles on the rig, anyway on a naturally aspirated vehicle with such low HP a high flow cat doesn't make much of a butt dyno difference. If your doing headers back then def change the size of your piping and so forth. I measured the stock tailpipe and the OD of the pipe was a measly 1.75inch. That combined with a high restriction stock muffler and anything is an improvement. I love low end torque and adding a 2.5in pipe i feel is too large. I'd rather keep the power low inteh rpm range and i feel a 2in or 2.25in pipe would do the trick. I have my resonator removed and 2in pvc added to that so its getting more in just need t get it out. I plan on getting a dynomax super turbo muffler as they give off a Nice deep tone that doesn't resonate into the interior like most other mufflers and the fiberglass packing gives a deeper tone. maybe my age is showing in the fact i don't want something loud. I'll keep you posted after i have the 2in catback with 2in dynomax super turbo muffler installed. One important thing to remember is hot exhaust gas flows faster then cooler gases. Bigger isn't always better or you get the exhaust scavaging effect. Good luck. scott ps i do feel the case of a flowmaster is extrememly tough as far as banging off rocks as its been proven! Scott