Tungsten

Video please!

There is no stud in that spot so there is nothing I can do about that. I was wondering about that too because it looked loose but I touched that piece and it was tight against the metal piece.

No scorch marks or carbon deposits there. The gaskets are solid and the studs are tighter than tight.

If someone was stupid enough to spray carb cleaner into the throttle body filled with electronic bull@!*% then this is what you get because carb cleaner will strip all coating on whatever is inside. I am not sure if an oxygen sensor malfunction will cause a high idle but anything is possible on a modern engine.

looks like stock pathy acceleration to me

Wrong heat range? Wrong gap? Try basic dealer plugs?

If you swapped it on a Honda you could do it on a WD21.

ok here is some more photos i also found that the head allows for more studs but they were just tapped holes and i have no idea why those studs are tighter than tight though and none of them are broken

right but that would involve taking the torsion bars off, it gets very sketchy with a one piece and no body/suspension lift although i may just weld it solid eventually and forget about it like i wanted to do but whatever i'm sure there is no leak from there

tack weld it in the spots it was leaking out of and put a band clamp over the slip fitting along with permatex copper rtv so it's a nice sandwich going there and i haven't had a leak there since but i can still pull it apart by cutting the tacks

That should be sealed good the last time I checked!

*sigh* I remember when I first got these installed, I went back to the shop after ~100 miles and they re-torqued the nuts right in front of my face. They did the best they could and used short wrenches. I think I will add some copper silicone to the threads as per Precise1's recommendation.

lol why don't you try reaching some of those studs it's not like they are out in the open i had a shop tighten them and they said they were tight what's worse is i can't show the noise because the camera microphone will not pick it up

I have been looking for this exhaust leak for a while now. It's a ticking sound coming from somewhere and I don't know where it is but it seems biased more toward the drivers side. The catch is the ticking sound only happens when the engine is under load so standing there and revving the engine is useless in finding the leak. I am suspecting this EGR fitting to be leaking. Is there anything I can do except buy a new EGR line? That thing costs $50 or more! Any ideas to help me pin point the leak better? Mind the crappy cell phone picture. You can definitely see some rust on it though!

The fuel lines sometimes leak at the engine. Just tighten up the clamps and good to go!

28 spline

By using manual hubs you are basically going from a full time 4x4 to part time 4x4 system. The R50 front hubs come just locked from factory, which is not ideal but very idiot proof. It's comparable to driving with manual hubs always in the locked position. So even in 2WD your CVs are still spinning! With manual hubs, if you are driving in 2WD with the hubs unlocked then you are really in 2WD with 2WD handling and cornering. The only draw back to using manual hubs is you have to get out and lock them every time you switch to 4WD on the shifter.

Knowing Nissan, I would have to say that they are all related to that P0335 code. The crank position sensors go out and the ECU has no idea what the engine speed is. Not even sure why this happens.

Here is the wiring diagram:

Yes, they are JY relays. The blue ones are the most common ones.

How does @!*% like this even happen?

Alright, time to fire up Visio and draw you n00bs up a wiring diagram.

I'm waiting for clear night time to show you some night time pictures. The difference is there, trust me on that. Also, my high beam switch is no longer lagging when I pull it. Those Nissan relays are amazing, they turn on instantly. Here are some photos of my installation: Raise your hand if you want a wiring diagram!

Let me do the math: 2x High Temp Ceramic Male 9004 Connectors = $16 1x Generic Female 9004 Connector = $5 1x 14 or lower AWG triple conductor loop of wire, about 20 feet = $20 1x Inline Fuse Holder with 20-30 Amp fuse = $5 2x Ring Terminals = $2 8x Quick Female Terminal Connects = $5 2x Blue Nissan Relays (or 1x Black Nissan Relay) = $10 Total = ~$63 in parts Assembly time = 5 hours