Tungsten

what I did was sand off the rust and fill the holes with expanding foam then sand over that, primer it, sand it again, paint, buff, and done

Does the first sound occur going over bumps? For the second problem, I think you need to replace those studs. Get them from a dealer and grind the old ones off then install the new ones and done. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campi...stail/index.htm

It turns out that the actual bracket can be separated from the caliper without any problems, just slides right off. The stud was frozen in there good, even drilling into it did not do anything useful. So a new hole had to be drilled out and tapped... After spending an entire day trying to drill and tap, I think I may have got it now. Its a 1.25 thread 8mm in diameter, had to use a 6.8mm drill. Found my 8mm bolt in the steering section of the auto parts store! lol The brake pads wore off completely to the steel and ate up the rotors. Ordered new brembo rotors on Amazon (brembo rotors all around now ), everything is going back together as soon as they get here. While I'm at it, my handbrake doesn't appear to be working yet the mini drum shoes are fine... Could it have seized?

well taking the reed switch out and cleaning it made the light go away lol

well these are all good, ill stick with magnaflow too but i doubt you can get much sound out of the good old 3 liter at one point i just had a straight out and it was fine but i needed an actual exhaust to pass the inspection

I was thinking about the JY but there is no guarantee that it will come out and may brake off as well. I hope the dealer has these bolts.

ok I will try to drill it thanks for the tips any idea where i can find a new bolt like this?

Well my brake pads wore out entirely on the rear wheels so I went and got a set at Pepboys for like $20. Then I attempted to install them so I jacked up the truck and took off the rear wheels. I know that the calipers are supposed to swing up but they are locked down with a bolt. So I started to remove the bolt on the right side first since this side was really bad. However no matter what I did I could not get the bolt loose, I tried hammering on it and dousing it in penetrating oil everywhere. So I ended up snapping the bolt off... When I tried the other side and the bolt came right out without any problems. Does this mean I need a new caliper on the right side now? How much does the dealer sell them for, anyone know? I would rather replace the caliper anyway because its been acting funny lately. This is probably going to be my last repair before I get a new car. Anyone want a 91 some later this year or so? It runs fine and has been well maintenanced. $300 or make an offer and hey maybe Ill just give it away. It still needs a tranny cooler but I just don't have the time to do this (which is the reason I'm offering it).

Thanks B This is actually a reed switch, I bet the float is stuck, will give a few whacks on the container...

Upon a closer examination, the oil leak was coming from the bottom of the transmission where it is connected to the engine. I wiped the area with a rag to check it out and it appears that it could be coming from the drain plug. Could it be the drain plug? After cleaning the area out, starting the engine and driving in a circle, there is no more leak. If it comes back I am suspecting that when the oil was changed the drain plug was not torqued correctly. The manual specifies the tightening torque to be 22 to 29 ft-lb. on the drain plug. As for brakes, nothing is leaking right now but when I topped off the container to the max level with DOT 3 brake fluid the BRAKE light on the dashboard came on (my handbrake is down). I will do some more observations on that but I am sure it could be the Master Cylinder. The MC was replaced around 2 years ago and I am suspecting that the replacement part could be crap. I could not find any weep holes on there but there is a probe inserted below the fluid container. Could that be the weep hole probe or something?

RMS? FMS? whats that? and the trail goes to the front diff :S that can't be it...

well this morning i found out that i am loosing brake fluid and the rear right disk is slightly squealing when the brake pedal is half way down could it be the brake master cylinder????

oups missed that one yes it definitely needs a good flush then

lol i recently replaced a fan clutch that stayed on all the time no matter what i replaced it with a beck and arnley one and now it only goes on after a cold start then goes quiet after a minute or so i'm thinking could the problem be a clog or the automatic trans screwing with the temp since it runs its hot oil through the rad

o ok thx i guess someones been there already lol

After driving my truck for a few miles, I have noticed a small oil leak coming from under the pan area. I don't know what it is yet but it looks like engine oil. Is this a common problem somewhere? Any thoughts before I go to the shop?

idk if this helps but my idle went down after one of those cleaners you can put into the gas tank i also had the engine cleaned out in a shop, they hooked up some thingy to the intake, i guess it was the TB being cleaned but lots of smoke and crap came out as it was idling

wait but how many connectors are there total?? i just have 2 connectors on the front plugged up on the frame

what a bunch of sissies, all they could do is rip the doors off

my brakes make crunchy noises when wet idk if that helps

Aztek Red Blends in with all the rust and mud...

Yes all 4 shocks were replaced but I only saw the connectors on the front.

Yes, if you even see the slightest cracks on the plastic insulator on top of the sender, patch them up as soon as possible! Hosing it down really does not do anything to it.

I have one question... Are only the front shock absorbers adjustable or on all 4 shocks? I don't see any wiring harnesses or connectors for the rear shock absorbers.

I don't know if this is already on the forum but I tried doing a search and did not find anything so here it goes... One time my truck died on I-80 and I had to force it to the side of the road. Towing took forever and it was pouring hard but that was the least of my problems. I had it towed to the nearest garage where they replaced the fuel filter and it started up fine so I got it home. The next day it died again and would not start so I got another fuel filter and worked fine again until it died again. Had to get it towed to a garage again where I was told that the fuel pump was bad because the fuel pump fuse exploded. So there went $400 to replace that... Guess what the damn thing died again and it was towed back to the garage this time for free... The problem turned out to be a bad fuel sending unit. The plastic thing which insulates the electrical connectors on the sending unit has cracked and kept shorting out. The garage wanted a ridiculous amount of money for replacing it plus I found later that they put a burn mark in one of the seats so I glued up the sending unit with some epoxy in their parking lot and took it home. I got a new sending unit from the stealer for around $100 and replaced the fuel pump from the old sender into the new one then dropped it back in the tank. When I was putting the access hole cover back on I somehow managed to knock out the thing that holds the cover (must be rust) so I just sealed the cover with some silicone. Starts up and works good as new since then. Anyway watch for rust and cracks on top of that fuel tank or you may be left disabled!