Tungsten

Good to know everything worked out Any idea why the half moon retaining key broke off? I have a 1994 engine in my 1991 as well and no problems with it so far Maybe you don't even need #6 lol

could it be a bad alignment caused by steering wheel slop?

Check the switch again, maybe it was a little off on install

Its the switch, replace it or pull it apart and clean it

Yes that seems like a very good possibility Can it also be a bad steering gear?

I know, it cost me about $180 total...lol I probably spent more money on the truck this week than I did in 2 years lol Still cheaper than buying a whole transmission though 35 lbs of shipping is typical for me, lol...I remember the time I ordered brake parts... UPS must not like me very much these days Also, What the hell is this and where do I install it?

checked that, the same pressure all around and its still doing this crazy thing

I'm going to order 16 bottles of Nissanmatic J from that site and go to a shop that has the flush machine

Yes I looked in the manual and it only says to use DEXRON type but I remember there was a TSB somewhere that the Nissanmatic C should be used to prevent rough shifting when cold. I read somewhere else that Nissanmatic J should work too and here is where to get it: http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=3912 EDIT: Buy Nissanmatic D instead, J which is now S is for new models, 01 and up.

I'm about to change the ATF but I remember Nissan recommended something to use to fix the rough shifting before warmed up. It was a Nissanmatic or something I can't recall. Anyone remember or know what Nissan recommends for the transmission?

i have fairly new tires, less than 1500 miles on them

normal

the balljoints are good there is no play also the linkage is very good too i'm thinking it might be the steering wheel itself or the worm gear as there is a little play in the steering wheel and another weird thing is the power assist varies, on some days it turns easier and on some days harder

no my a/c doesn't work as there is a leak somewhere so i lost all the refrigerant lol anyway could just be some air left in the system as the cooling is quite consistent now it does not go over 1/2 now

go to the junkyard get another engine swap heads bonus parts win

Ok here is the deal When going straight at low speeds I can keep the wheel centered but once I start going faster than 55 then I have to keep the wheel slightly turned to the right and the faster I go the more I have to turn it. My alignment is good so I have no idea what is causing this. Any ideas?

2wd models and 4x4s use slightly different parts overall I don't think this is possible unless you do some hardcore custom fab

if it starts to go to half then the fan kicks in and lowers it so its pretty much consistent at that spot but idk if its best for the vg30e chances are it will be better once i get a trans cooler in there

A link for the reducer fittings would help I need a little more info since I never installed a transmission cooler before I would also like to bypass the radiator completely so should I get 2 coolers? Thanks

Here it is Click on Attached Image

Here is where my needle hovers about Also whenever it gets to half now, the fan clutch kicks on and takes it down to about there Is this normal (for a 180 degree)? I don't have a trans cooler yet and I also run with OD off EDIT: The attachment system is broken, see next post, it works lol

so what is the correct inlet size? or what adapter to use?

The flush was free and they didn't charge me for the coolant either The rad came to $175 and the rest was labor and taxes Now it runs slightly below half with minor variences Ill put up a pic later today of where the needle hovers about

well i am going to pick it up from the shop today again lol and there goes another $300 yes just as i was suspecting the radiator was clogged not letting the engine cool off quick enough with a new radiator, do i still need a trans cooler?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-433145/?image=large Does that look like a good replacement?