Tungsten

idk but i was told it would be extremely difficult or impossible to remove that crossover pipe once welded ill go with a band clamp for now, just ordered one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQHUYQ/ref=oss_T12_product i got a 2" but i am not sure if a 2.25" will fit better or be loose just in case, i ordered the 2.25" also

thanks b lap joint exhaust clamp is what you need

The problem is they don't instruct to do anything. In the directions they don't even say weld the pipes or anything. They just say insert one into the other. You can check the installation PDF on their website if you don't believe me.

I finally got these things installed but now I have a leak. The leak comes from the 2 piece coupling at the cross over pipe. I'm not sure how I can fix this problem. 1. Welding is not good because they are coated and coated pipes don't weld well. Also, should the pipes have to be taken apart for removal, they would have to be cut. 2. Clamping or crimping doesn't work well as they are 16 gauge steel pipes. 3. Any high temp silicone just melts right off. I am thinking to just put lots and lots of muffler cement into the coupling and hope it seals. Or if anyone has a custom 1 piece crossover pipe they can send me that would be cool.

meh i got the kit off summit and now i don't want to use it, for me its easier to put something on the starter to cover it when replacing the oil filter and o yea the filter clears the headers fine idk why you guys have a problem with it i will try to return the kit back to summit and if i can't if anyone wants it ill send it to you, just pay the shipping which should be like $10

The problem with cheap mufflers is they put out too much droning noise. I like Gibson because they sound good and at the same time don't drone. Thats the reason I tried stock cat and muffler combo with headers. I wanted the exhaust to flow yet at the same time keep the droning away.

EPIC FAIL MOTORS INC.

so steevo, you are saying that if i had the 2 piece pipe welded, the flanges on the 2 piece pipe would clear out of the body and not hit anything?? thats not what i was told so im trying to understand why

crap thats alot of money to spend on an exhaust lol well i guess gibson cat back and a magnaflow cat would be a nice combo what size cat though? i would like it to bolt right to the gibson exhaust and where would the o2 sensor go? i'm confused

Yep. Classical guitar is my style, I play with an Ibanez guitar.

I am looking for a new muffler so I would like some advice 1. I want to use the stock midpipe, which bolts on nicely to the header collector 2-piece pipe 2. I want the muffler to slide right into the stock midpipe (I don't like adapters much) 3. I need a straight through muffler, the stock muffler is not very good with headers I would prefer something from either Magnaflow or Flowmaster

right now im running headers and a stock cat and muffler 1000-2000 rpm is awesome but over that it doesn't make any more power i need a magnaflow muffler badly

No they did not come with a clamp and all the sealant just evaporated. The shop I did it in was pissed off that they did not have a clamp or anything but those pipes are so thick that screwing on a silly clamp doesn't do anything. Now I do not know what to do with that slip in nonsense... Do not weld it, you will not get that pipe out. BTW, if you have a 90-95, you don't need to touch the EGR tube and the oil filter clears fine. I'm running a stock muffler and cat right now but its probably a good idea to change those.

headers are in and you do not need the oil filter relocation kit also where they connect by the transmission, use some high temp sealant so there is no leak

CL?

mass air flow sensor coolant temp sensor wheel alignment fan clutch catalytic converter air filter spark plugs egr valve

My starter grinds from time to time at start up. I think this is probably because its gooed up. I got the oil filter relocation kit from Summit for this reason. Now since the headers are going in I think its the time to maintenance it. I'm planning to get the headers done at a shop because of the studs. Got a question though, should the starter be cleaned or replaced? I don't really want to go to the dealer but then again Autozone might give me a dud. Perhaps anyone can hook me up with a Nissan OEM starter?

I did get bolts with the headers as well but I think those bolts are just to connect the pipes together. I got a set of 300zx turbo studs from the dealer today, cost about $115, I would rather have the studs.

thats alright, i just went to the dealer and got them along with the exhaust studs and stuff

got em today their shipping is quick

thanks

I cannot find that part number on Summit Racing. Can someone give me a link to the right kit or the thread size? I would really like to get it ASAP.

Its not worth it, those 95 clusters are a failure.

I think who ever did the brake job on my truck a while back before I even touched it botched the brake job. I don't have the locking washers on the hex bolts that attach the torque members (rear disk brakes). http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-pa..._5674_5676.html Does your Pathfinder have part number 08915-2401A where the hex bolts are? This could be the reason why my brake pedal got a little softer, I think the bolts are coming out because the locking washers are missing.

yeah it would have been even better if it was an 88 pathfinder