cohen

where did you get them for $169 shipped, all I keep finding is the package with shackles and all that.

I still have automatic hubs and I have been thinking about converting them to Warn Premiums, but I figured I'd wait until these blow out. I don't go 4 wheeling every weekend but I go often, is there any disadvantage to keeping the automatics besides less MPGs and taking 2 or 3 rotations to lock in, or will it mess anything else up if they blow? Also, is the write up in the How To section for the 90-95 the same as the 87-89 minus the different part #?

^hey so was my bull bar! They made it for my truck and I spent a whole saturday cutting pieces off of it. Thorleys it is then, I'm not sure what I want to do with the rest of the exhaust though I'm kinda stuck between these 2: -pipe coming out of each header with HF cat and/or Flowmaster 40 with turn down tip -use the Y-pipe with HF cat, and 40 I really don't want to have the exhaust in the stock location cause it has been owned a few times and I break weld joints or gaskets, I'm looking for a nice low rumble at idle and to sound totally bad ass while driving...is it possible in the '87 v6?? haha thanks guys.

I have been contemplating between thorleys and pacesetter for a while. But, I want to run each header into a 2.5 or 2.25" pipe with HF cats and turn down tips, and maybe flowmaster 40's. I think it will sound good but I don't know if I'll get the low rumble I'm looking for. I called Doug Thorley's number a few months ago and got these prices for their headers. Pacesetter (black) - $217 (ceramic) - $352 ^off of nissanpartswholesale.com Thorley (chrome) - $398 (ceramic) - $522

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Patr...bayphotohosting

IT WORKS! pink/black is pathy side. I connected the illumination to orange lead (pink/blue) and made a ground for the orange/white lead (pink/black). and it works. Thank you for the help I saved $60. I owe you guys a beer.

red (connected to red wire which is Switched power Ignition) > | = | green with white orange (not connected to anything) > | = | pink with blue (but there is a pink with black under it...ground??) yellow (connected to yellow wire which is battery lead) > | = | red with green red is getting 0 volts orange is getting 11.66 volts yellow is getting 12.25 volts my guess is I need to hook the illumination wire (orange) up to the orange lead (pink with blue) and ground out the wire under it (pink with black)

See where which wire goes, I take it you mean the single live wire? I'm working on it again tonight with a working multimeter. So what do I do when I find this single live wire? I'm sorry for the ignorance I just started learning about electronics a year ago.

I know how to use a mulitmeter. so I check the harness with the battery lead not the speaker harness. So when I find the live pin I cut the wire that connects it to head unit and plug it in again and try it? I don't have the harnesses backwards because I crimped all my wires and didn't use a harness except for the one that plugs into the back of the head unit. And none of the colors match up like the red wire goes to a green with white on the factory side of the harness and the yellow goes to red with green, and those are the only 2 wires connected on that harness.

yes it does work fine. so when I get the multimeter what and how am I supposed to test the wires??

nothing is touching. it has plasctic seperating them all but I took them apart and checked too. I did notice my ground is taped into my cigarette lighter (black with brown spots). Originally the ground had a ring crimped on the the end like you were supposed to ground it out with a screw through the ring but I cut it off and crimped it to the ground for my other cd player which ends up running to the cigarette lighter. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but maybe it would help. I checked the fuse for the cig lighter and it is good.

pulling them out from the center console so I can see all the open wires and making sure nothing is touching them. But this was while the cd player was still connected and it still blew the fuse. But it doesn't blow the fuse with the cd player unhooked at the alpine wiring harness

"The "other wiring harness" is the main one for the power, lighting, amp control, and front speakers." Connected there^: -Red wire (Switched Power (Ignition) Lead) -Yellow wire (Battery Lead) my amp is connected to the remote lead (blue with white) (random clearish wire that was installed with amp kit...by best buy) and front speakers are hooked up to "speaker wiring harness" at gray/gray with black and white/white with black. ------------------- I took all the wires and clips out and nothing was touching the wires and it still blew. could it have anything to do with the orange illumination wire not being attached to the orange/orange with white wire even though there is no ground on the Alpine wiring harness for the illumination?

the post with the pictures has been updated and is more understandable ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- speaker wiring harness: 2 white - purple 2 green - green 2 black - grey 2 brown - white 1 green with white - nothing connected to it ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alpine head unit (the new IDA-X001) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- they orange/orange and white wires aren't connected to anything ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- multimeter bit the dust I think it needs a new fuse.

wiring harness for speakers I havent taken the electrical tape off but I think it was spliced and the right color wire was taped on the open wire 2 white changes to purple 2 green changes to green 2 black changes to grey 2 brown changes to white 1 green with white has nothing changed or connected to it The other wiring harness 2 oranges 2 greys 2 whites 1 solid red connected 1 solid yellow connected 1 solid blue blue clip witth 2 wires don't know what this is but has pink with blue and black with brown spots these are not connected to anything: -blue (power antenna lead) -pink with black (Audio Interrupt in lead) -orange (illumination)

it works fine when the cd player isn't connected...next check??

ok I moved all open wires out into the open and made sure they werent touching anything and its still blowing them. both wiring harnesses and the factory female antenna plug

There is an illumination wire, power antenna wire, and interrupt wire that aren't connected but they have rubber covers over them that I thought would protect it. When I took out the 4th from the left fuse it cut my radio off and it keeps blowing the 5th to the left but in Haynes it has a black dot between the two almost as if connecting them. I have new fuses and I'm getting ready to take the cd player out and ill make sure the illumination is not touching anything. When I got the first cd player installed at best buy they just put connectors on the old one and made the colors the right ones. you are talking about the clip for the speakers right? There is another clip but only the yellow and red wires were extended. there are 2 oranges and some other colors. thanks guys

I got it back today from t-belt, water pump, etc. change and put in a new cd player and hooked it up exactly as the old one was and when I turned the lights on the first click (the second being the headlights) the fuse blows for the gauges, center console and corner lamps.

just ordered a pair.

I spend more money on my pathy than I do on the girlfriend. I guess it's ok because the pathy deserves it; it doesn't bitch at me, it's almost 21, and doesn't make me cuddle. I have the oldest truck out of all my buddies and it looks better than most of theirs, the only time it broke down on me is when the battery died or a terminal was loose, while they break driveshafts, get holes in radiators, loose transmissions, etc. and I can go through almost everything they can with 33's and 35's on their toyota's. on that note I have to go finish installing my bull bar and KC's for tonight

After doing research, I figured I would be ok changing the belt, water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass hose, and cam and crank shaft seals is they are leaking. Also, What should I do if a bolt breaks, knowing my truck that will most likely happen.

I'm going to be replacing my timing belt soon so I'm thinking I should change my water pump also. Is there anything else I should change while I have everything apart? It has 186,xxx miles and I don't know when the last time anything was changed except for what I have already done myself which is nothing major; oil, and filters is pretty much it engine wise. Also, how much should I be looking at spending?

I keep hearing people talking about hooha centerlinks but where exactly is it and what does it do? With what size tires should you replace it. Sorry....I'm not trying to jack the thread

they did mine just like the picture shows...pics coming soon.