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A few months ago I pulled my brake slide pins, cleaned them up and reinstalled. The squaking problem went away but it has returned :o . I'm thinking that I'll just get new ones because its kind of a pain to do all that work, just to have to do it again 3 months later. I know its possible to buy new ones and was just wondering if any knows any online source for them or if they are strickly a dealer type part? Thanks

hey john thats exactly what mine looked like when i opened it up. Glad you were able to get to it before it got to you.

Saw a new wrangler limited yesterday. It was pretty geigh. Looks like a limo, with no chance of being useful off road with out some serious mods. Still would love a CJ to play with though.

If the problem continues after brake line is fixed check out the post on slide pin maintenence. I had nearly identical symptoms and after i cleaned these up the noise stopped. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...st=0entry6997

Thanks Guys and Girls, I thought that it was maybe due the way things are set up and the missing cat shield doesn't help. The fluids pretty new, I checked them during the trip and no funky smell or anyrthing so I'm not going to worry about it too much since other people are having the same experience. :bow:

I drove out to pennsylvania last weekend and noticed that the shifter shaft on the 4wd t-case got really hot. Is this normal? If not what to look for? The temperature was in the 80's. I have an aftermarket tranny cooler that bypasses the stock one. Automatic Transmission any help would be appreciated, thanks

GIANT HOSE CLAMP! Seriously You have to replace them every six months or so but they are cheap and work great. I am currently using one to keep my muffler off of the frame cross bar.

Guy I work with got one, you cant see s*&t from the front seats, which is something i notice on alot of vehicles these days. other than that the styling is OK and the tires it came with are a joke. I did like the button that locks the rear diff and that all the electronics are run between the headliner and roof. It seems like it wants to be a bad ass but someone came in and decided to make it appealing to soccer moms too. :X

Whoa Filthy I thought my brakes looked like they were in rough shape. B- everything fits fine and looks fine, it was just one of those things that made me wonder, It seemed like it affected the travel of the slide pin by just a little bit, of course I didn't notice this until they were off and mixed up as to what came from where. Just wanted to check with those in the know, every thing seems kosher so I'm not too worried. Thanks for the response

I did the slide pin maintainance yesterday. It was definitely needed and I am hoping it cured the squeaky noise Ive been hearing. When I was putting the drivers side together I noticed that the rubber boots were different lengths. There was no mention of this in any of the write ups I've read, nor in my haynes manual. One had a 24 and the other a 28 on one end of the boot which I assume is the size. Anybody know which one goes where? thanks

So I finally moved enough of the other projects we had going on in the garage so I could squeeze the pathy in there. The squeak is definitely coming from the passengers side seemingly toward the front so I jacked up the front and tried to move the wheel back and forth to see if there is any play in the hub. It didn't feel loose at all so I moved on to the brakes. My brakes seem to always be barely touching the rotor, but the brake pads look pretty good(20,000miles). The slide pin on the bottom moved around pretty good. The top one seemed kind of stiff. I pulled it out and it was dry and rusty. Unfortunately I was not really prepared to do this job. I cleaned it off with some wd-40 and a light brushing and cleaned out the hole the best I could. I didn't have any brake grease and the bastards at the auto store closed 10 min early. So I just cleaned every thing up and put it back together, I'll do it properly this weekend. Its definitely better and at least all that dry rust is out of the socket so that the pin can at least move. Hopefully after I properly clean and lube the pins the squeak will go away. Thanks for all the input. Now I just need to find some time to zap the rust spots, install my L&P center link, and replace a CV boot, not to mention finish the bathroom remodel we started a few weeks ago. Thanks again :bow: next day...After thinking about it I think the brake bads were touching because i had my foot on the brake when I shut the car off. I also had a really detailed dream about going to the auto store and looking for brake grease.

I read the write up on the slide pins so hopefully I'll be able to check that out tomorrow. If it was the slide pins would the noise go away once the brakes are depressed? Do problematic ball joints squeak with forward/reverse motion or up/down motion like when you hit a bump? I was looking at them and can't figure out how they would cause a repetitive squeaking with just forward motion. thanks for all the input so far, I'm motivated to fix things just need a little guidance sometimes.

JB-you might try taking out the offending seats and letting them bake in the sun for a few days. That might kill off some of the moldy smell. You also may want to try some sort of "organic" stain and smell remover, by organic I mean the source of the odor not the product. The sell it at pet store and sometimes the supermarket, It works for dog pee and such , I dont see why it wouldn't work for moldy funk, its called Natures Miracle.

Haven't had a chance to check anything yet, as we had some visitors from out of town. I just wanted to point out that it only makes the noise SOME OF THE TIME. I don't know if that rules anything out or in. Its been quiet for the last two days. And I think Ive ruled out the brakes because squeaky breaks have a different time of noise. Its definitely a rubbery squeak. Not that I'm saying its rubber it just has that kind of noise. I'll keep you posted, It looks like rain for the next two days and the garage is full of another (home improvement) project at the moment. How would I go about check the drive shaft? I looked at it for any thing obvious, the only thing I noticed was that it looked newer than the other parts down below. happy fourth

I've had some pretty good results with a spray on shampoo made by Prestone. Its the kind you spray on and brush out with the top. The rag I use to to dry the seats off usually comes out real dirty from all the grime freed up by the brush. The brush is crap but it works. I think I got it at a NAPA store. Its in a red can with red "brush" top. It got the coffee and iced tea stains out of my passenger seat, as well as the general dog funk and sweat smell that accumulates in the summer. I've had good results too with a device called the little green steam machine. It's a portable steam cleaner, worked great on my wife's Toyota. good luck

thanks for the input. Right after I posted I had to drive up to my father in-laws house which is about fifty miles away. I used the drive to try to figure out when and where it happens. Here's what I observed It does not go away when the brakes are applied. It does however stop when the steering wheel is turned to the right and only the right. Even just a little bit. It only happens at low speeds, about to stop or getting going from a stop. The sound is related to speed, higher pitch and faster squeaking as speed increases. It is not a continuous noise rather a repetitive squeak. Bumps have no effect. Brake pads, front changed about 20,000 miles ago. Happened the entire ride yesterday. Completely quiet on the way back tonight. 50 miles each direction. Frustrating because you know if I take it to the shop it will refuse to make the noise for the mechanic. T-bars are mildly cranked, would ball joints be a continous squeaking noise? Yesterday I thought maybe a bad wheel bearing but, I've never heard what that sounded like. I'll take a look athe the drive shaft and ball joints tomorrow. thanks again

Maybe it is 18, I was just guessing because I never get much more than 15 gal during a fill up when on empty, although I guess that would make sense that there were a few gallons in the tank. If thats the case I change my mpg to about 19, which is still pretty good for an 11 year old truck. Anybody know for sure what size tank a 95xe has?

Hello, I noticed recently that the pathy is making an intermittent squeaking noise. It sounds almost sounds like rubber, well rubbing. It usually occurs after I have stopped and begin to go but once it starts it will some times be continuous at low speeds, i.e. driving through a neighborhood. It seems to happen when its warmer, although that might be that I notice it more with the windows down. It doesn't change when i apply the brakes, or the e-brake but it will usually stop if I turn the wheel to the left or top 20mph, and it only occurs when I am in motion. It did it a few weeks ago then stopped until yesterday, and now today it seems to be constant. I'm going to take it to the shop next week because I'm worried it may be the brakes, and I really enjoy stopping when necessary. I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem, or has an idea of what to look for. I'd like to go to the shop with some sort of idea as to what it may be. thanks

I'm getting about 320-350 highway miles. 95 XE-V6 I belive it has a 15 gallon tank, which makes for 22mpg which is pretty friggin good for an 11 year old truck. I don't usually pay much attention to the miles around town. I fill up about once a week though.

Well I can comment on the first two. My pathy used to do something similar, after letting my foot off the accelerator, especially once I crossed the 30mph mark I would feel/ hear this clunking noise almost like it was going in and out of gear. I eventually had the fluid changed and it went away. You might want to try this and look into a transmission cooler. If you search around a little bit you will find a lot of posts regarding aftermarket transmission coolers. The stock cooler is prone to clogging and adversely affecting your transmission. It seems to be a standard and inexpensive mod that may prolong the life of your tranny. (auto transmission) As far as the RPM's jumping around that seem like a common problem. My truck does the same. Its just the gauge that's moving around, right? It has to do with a solenoid on the back of the instrument panel if I'm not mistaken. If you search a little bit there are threads that discuss the possibility of fixing it but it seems like the general consensus is to not worry about it as the fix is a PITA and/or involves replacing the cluster. good luck

Had Bronco that did the same thing. I always figured it was a truck thing

I'm pretty sure this is so you don't get nailed by a passing car when you are pulled over on the side of the road. (unless of course you drive on the left side of the road ) I would love it if the rear gate opened about 6inches higher, I'm starting to get a funny indentation on my forehead.

Not too long ago I was at the gas station and this guy comes up to me and asks if he could borrow my key to open his pathfinder that he just locked himself out of. I'm pretty sceptical and tell him I don't think that will work and he proceed to tell me he's done a few times successfully. So I finish filling up and drive across the street to see whats up. I give him my key he puts it in the lock and presto door is open. WTF. His door lock looked fine, ie no damage from previous attempts at breaking in. Has anybody here had this experience? Hopefully this won't lead to a rash of stolen pathys. BTW It was definitely his ride. I hope

It really does work. But only on paint transfer scuffs, like when someone hits your bumper in the parking lot or you close the garage door a little to soon

If it a paint transfer kind of scratch lysol spray will take it right off. My wife worked for a car rental place, its how they kept their wrecks looking spiffy.