ticker

All parts mentioned in the above post are located in the horn pad

hey teen-I have a 95 and it made a noise that it seems like you are describing. First thing is try pulling on the horn pad to see if you can move it so it doesn't rub. If that doesn't work take off the horn pad and try to turn the wheel, if sound is gone see below as it it is probably one of these problems. For me I ended up taking the horn pad off. There is a screw under the steering wheel that hold one of the clips in place. Take this out first than you just you pull it towards you carefully so you don't bust ony of the plastic parts. I found that the metal frame that acts as a spring to push against your hand while blowing the horn was bent out of shape. It also has a plastic "liner that gives it shape and hold everything together. On mine two of the mounting points (plastic to metal) were snapped. (both of these caused by slamming the horn with one hand and making rude gestures with other) I unscrewed the plastic pieces from the metal and put the metal in a vice so that I could squeeze it a little bit to get the shape back. For the plastic I ended up using two part epoxy to weld them back on. I'm pretty sure they are broken again. but the rubbing stopped. I suspect you will find that the metal frame is mashed and just needs to be un mashed good luck ticker

HEY MAN I WOULD BET THAT IT IS YOUR VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR. (sorry for yelling) I had the same problem a few months ago. Speedo stoped working checkengine came on. I had no other problems. Cost me about $100 to have it fixed. After seeing what it is it seems like something pretty basic to change. It is located on the tranny. If you get under there you will see it coming off one side with some wires that go up in to the nether regions of your rig. Good luck ticker

welcome- the roller switch should be controlling the dimming of your gauge cluster. As far as the Alarm goes: the alarm switch has three settings-OFF which is the end closest to e-brake depressed. Middle-ON but with "impact sensor off". ON-end closest to back seats depressed. Your thermostat may be messed up but on my 95 the temp never really goes up past about 1/8th of the gauge. As far as the button and switch near your hood release are aftermarket. I don't have any on my 95. Maybe light switches? Any holes in your bumper? good luck ticker

I have the chrome on my XE too. They seem to hold up much better compared to most of the lego wheels Ive seen. When they are clean they at least have a little sparkle to make them stand out. It seems like a mostly cosmetic change and IMO the legos make your rig look outdated. although the black legos do look kindof tight killvox. just a thought

Hey get-r-done, a few months ago my speedo kicked it. It turned out to be the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Everything worked fine(to my knowledge) except for the speedometer. I do remember that the check engine light came on-then went off-then back on and so on. If it turns out not to be your cable you might want to check that. I confirmed it by checking the ecu. I think it cost me like $100 bucks to fix at the shop. Good Luck

Ive got a 95 and I'm getting 20mpg on the highway. On one hand it seems sucky but then someone in a H2 passes me and I laugh. SUCKAS sssh JUST TO CLARIFY-PEOPLE DRIVING H2'S @8/MPG ARE SUCKAS YOU ALL RULE!

Bad ass truck+no brain =

hows that snorkle working out for ya?

ohh nooo that doesn't look right!

next pic-where ya going?

Saw these on the net the other day thought you guys would get a kick out of them. first pic-looking tough

champagne w/ what my friend Sam refers to as "cat-scratches" ie the oddly shaped and colored decals on the front doors. I hated these when i first got my pathy but now I kinda like them. The same pathy w/o decals looks kinda boring. Oh Yeah and I also have the "Sport" decal on the rear corners. Somedays I don't feel so sporty.

DERN-I was hoping that I could have an easy fix. I guess I'll have to take it to the shop. thanx

Not to beat a dead horse but I've had similar problems. I just got back from a 1200 mile road trip which gave me time to think about this. I get a lot of road feedback through the steering wheel. For instance when Im going down the highway I can feel a vibration in the steering wheel, if the road changes to fresh-smooth blacktop it gets better. Or lets say you are stopped in traffic on route 80 in PA I can feel pretty distinctly the undulations in the road. Or on a bumpy dirt road the wheel is all over. The worst is that if the road is convex I have toconstantly fight the wheel to stay center but not if itis flat. just had the tires balanced so I know I'm good with that. I looked at all the bushings etc, and it looks OK. s this what a Steering Stabilizer does or should I try something else. It seems like a pretty good deal for $60. Hope you all had a nice Thankgiving see ya

I'd be curious as to what a larger car would look like after the same crash. Way back when in drivers ed my instructor kept telling us that the only safe car was a big car Buick or Chevy. I bet the engine would end up somewhere in the vicinity of the back seat.

dude-First take the cover off and make sure it is tightened all the way. If so check to make sure it is mounted securely. there are four bolts that attach the internal tire rack to the car. Take the tire off and look for them. They are a gold color. two are on the floor and two are on the interior side-for those two you need to pop off the plastic cover-use a flat head and be gentle. Also make sure the wheel is facing the right way. It should be mounted with the outside facing the interior of the car. Forget the foam there is no way it should be moving around if everything is secure. Remember to investigate first, and look for the obvious, and then ask questions if you can't figure it out. I think Ive fixed more "broken" things by finding a loose screw or connection good luck

HMMMM- I messed around a bit but honestly I'm not reallly sure what I am even looking for that would need to be grounded. I'll continue to look for a engine diagram, if anyone has an idea of what to look for I'd appreciate the help. I am constantly amazed by this forum and the people in it. You guys rock. bone

IS THERE A WAY TO LOOK UP THE TSB WITHOUT HAVING TO SUBSCRIBE TO ALLDATA? THANKS

'95 XE-V6

To be honest Im not really sure what the tech guide is taking about. I posted this to see if anyone had heard about tis or knows the part. I'm going to sit in front of the engine with the Haynes manual, a beer and a set of jumper cables and see if I can't figure it out. It may not apply at all to these engines. I am just a guy looking for a fix to an annoying problem. Its mostly annoying because I'm about to visit my folks for thanksgiving and my dad gets this real worried look on his face when ever he hears my car start. sly just looked in Haynes manual- having a date range from 81-95 its a little too broad to cover this and the only engine pic it has is an older engine with the big round air cleaner on top.

Check this out: "Mid 90's Nissan 3.0 engines may develop a ticking noise in the valve train which sounds like valve lifters. Before declaring bad valve lash, take a jumper wire and ground the solenoid controlling the variable valve timing gear. It is pretty obvious -- sticking up out of the valve cover. You only need access to one -- the easiest one(for a change) because they are in series. grounding the solenoid traps the oil in the gears. With the engine idling, and the noise present, ground the lead. If the noise goes away, you have found the problem. Nissan has a TSB for this: Replace just the spring. According to my sources, however, it is better to replace the entire gear. The spring doesn't always fix the problem, but replacing the gear assembly will. Do the job once, and the customer pays -- do the job a second time and someone pays (not always the customer -- at least willingly)." Its a tech tips page from a mechanic out in Sedona, AZ. Hey all, I like most owners of a older pathfinder am familiar with the noise of the leaking manifold. I am also the proud owner of a mysterious tapping noise that some mechanics call valve tap, others call piston slap and still others bad rod bearings. No one will give me a solid aswer to the question of what is that noise. It is definately louder at startup, but never quite goes away. At idle it soulds like a diesel only slower and quieter, something which other people including complete strangers have told me as well. It does not seem to effect performance. I swear that when I bought it it was much quieter, I don't know if that was something the stealer did or if it was becasue it had been on the lot for a while, but within a month or so it was present and quite noticeable. I was checking out the wd21 forums when i came accross a link that led to the above info. Has anyone ever heard of this? Does it apply to the engine in my '95? I guess I'll find out. I'm going to try it thisweekend let me know if you all have heard of this or if it is BS thanks and have a good night http://www.asaaz.org/canyonauto/techtips.htm#nissan%203.0

its done baby!

it's in!

putting in window