ticker
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Posts posted by ticker
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Ugh, not again!
I know, I know, but It's hard to look at all the diffent posts and get a clear idea of if people really like these shocks. I've seen alot of negative as well as positive remarks but they are spread throughout tons of different posts.BTW-i'm not looking for a "Cadillac" ride I just want it to be comfortable for intown/highway use. I know that the 5000's perform well off road, I guess I'm more concerned with on road charecteristics as this is my DD and we have a baby coming in august so I don't want the ride to be too jarring.
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AC is running the buy 3 get 4th shock free on Ranchos right now. I've read all the comments about the different shocks out there and have gotten the impression that while alot of us are running them, the 5000's ride kind of rough. I was wondering of someone could quantify that a bit. Right now I have the original 1995 vintage shocks so I'm assuming anything would be an improvement. So the question to me is, Is it like "man this truck rides like S*$t, I just broke a tooth"-kind of rough. Or am I going to be so happy with the ride over blown out stockers that I won't even notice the stiffness. Most of the driving I do is on the road with out any type of payload so I want it to ride comfortably. The 9000's are too expensive even with the good deal.
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I had my battery tested and it turns out it had a bad cell. After doing some research and searching around, including this site, I decided to go with a duralast battery from auto zone. If i had more money I probably would have considered the optima given its track record and abilities, but seeing how the duralast came out at the top of the consumer reports list and it has a two year free replacement and a 7 year total pro-rated warranty. It also only cost about $45 so I feel pretty good about it.
THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED ME SOLVE THIS ISSUE :bow:
your advice and support is truly appreciated-
-T
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I agree with this. You are still getting jump starts. See what your battery is holding and also what your alt is putting out. A nearly drained battery that doesn't hold a charge will cause a stall out once brakes are applied or any other electrical draw.
The good news is the dealer had the new f-link and it was only $10.70. The bad news is that nothings changed. Had to jump start it and then none of the electrics were working, turned the head lights on and engine cut out. Is it possible that the bad connection at the f-link caused the drain on the battery? I'm hoping that a new battery will solve the problem. At this point I can't even drive down to the auto store to have it tested, or the alternator for that matter. We have always used "die hard" batteries in my family so I'm leaning that way. There is also an "interstate" dealer across from sears so I'm open to suggestions as to one being better than the other, maybe its all personal preference though. Thanks for the help so far.
-T
I was sitting here thinking about batteries and just wanted to share that my wifes toyota had a panasonic battery in it that lasted 9 years before it gave up.
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Have not checked that. The reason I am leaning towards the f link is that its disintigration was the catalyst for these problems. I pick up the new one tomorrow. Hopefully that will render the pathfinder driveable at which point I'll check out the batt and alt. Pathfinder stalled out on the way home last night and my wife had to come give me a jump so I'm leaving it home today and driving my father in laws car. His Car which some as*wipe broke the window out of and destroyed the radio in an attempt to steal the TAPE DECK so I'll be heading to work in the snow with no radio and no window. I hope to report good things tomorrow
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Get a set of those little red and green post washers. They work for me.
thanks, that's an easy fix for that issue. On the way to work today the radio cut out and then the tach wouldn't read coupled with sluggish acceleration and sputtering. I'm about to call the Nissan dealer so hopefully they will know which harness I'm talking about. I've also been I've been thinking about the possibility of a loose ground wire somewhere else. I just had some pretty sloppy work done at meineke, is there a ground wire down below that they might have forgotten to tighten or damaged? I looked around but didn't see anything obviously hanging out, so a specific location as to where to look would be appreciated if this might be a possibility.
95 if that makes a difference.
:bow:
-T
update-just talked to Nissan North-super nice guys, they have to order the part so it won't be here until friday morning but at $13.76 if it works will be a heck of a deal!
Thanks for the tip Ryan
:cool2:
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I guess I'll start with getting a new harness at nissan becuase at lunch today I re-did all of the wiring that I did in the dark last night and it seemed fine after that. Started right up first time every time. As I'm almost home tonight I notice that the radio loses power when ever I put my foot on the brakes or put the turn signal on. WTF does this still sound like the fuseable links. There was also a build up of newly formed corrosion on the + teminal this evening. It also just started raining and my garage is full of other broken cars so I'm giving up for the night.
Thanks for the sugestions,
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Let me give you the backstory real quick. Last summer I stopped at a rest stop and the pathy wouldn't start again. Eventually I figured out that the wireing harness that connects to the barttery was rotted out. This is the harness that connects to the starter the interior electrics and some other good stuff. I cobbled it back together and have had no problem since. Until now....
Tonight it did the same thing and after fiddling with the wires I got it started and made it home. One of the other wires was hanging on by a few strands so I clipped them all and fashioned a new wiring harness by taking out the tabs on the harness(cannot find this size tab at any autoparts store) and re using them to re-wire with new wire. This is the harness that has two wires coming out one slot and one coming out the other. All three connect to the battery together.
Alas still no luck-So here it is
Symptoms-won't start-no crank at all, no clicking nada, but electric works fine(ie radio, lights etc).
*If I turn the key a few times it will sometimes give a weak turnover and then start up.
*It will also start right up with a jump.
Once started (this is the new wierd part) the engine will run at a low idle and the interior lights and head lights will be dim. Then the engine will dog a little bit and the lights will get brighter(this is how they normally look), then it will go back to the dim low idle and it keeps repeating this cycle.
any ideas?
Thanks in advance
I'm truly stumped on this one.
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Well I'm sure anyone that's followed this is as sick as I am of this topic. I picked the pathy up today and instead of removing and re bending the exhaust which I realize would have been expensive and difficult, it looks like they heated it up and squeezed it so that the offending bump stop would not hit the pipe but just barely. They also added another hanger at the tail pipe which is keeping the exhaust from banging around. I'm not thrilled with the fix but I'm definitely not going back there anymore. When I have time I'm going to go to another shop that's been recommended to me and have them look at the exhaust to see whether or not it looks right. In the mean time I'm going to write meineke a letter and talk to my credit card company to see if I have any recourse for charging back the labor I paid to have this half ass job done.
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arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggggggggggggg. i JUST DROPPED OF THE PATHY FOR THE THIRD TIME. THE GUY HAS THE BALLS TO TELL ME THAT IT'S NOT THE WAY THE EXHAUST WAS INSTALLED ITS THAT MY SHOCKS ARE BLOWN! I tell him, yeah I know but still if the pipe wasn't above the bump stop then it wouldn't matter. "I said what if I was off road or something, At full flex even with good shocks it would still hit." So he agrees to try to do something with it. I have a bad feeling about this. I know he doesn't want to fix it because it basically has to be redone. If its not fixed today I'm taking it to another muffler shop(what I should have done first) having it done and will try to get the original shop to foot the bill. -argue- -argue- -argue- -argue- -argue- -argue-
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I had the hanger moved today so it's now welded to the frame. This has decreased the amount of vibration and the in cabin noise dramatically. The muffler has mellowed out a bit after the first caouple of days and It really does have a nice sound to it. Unfortunately the ass monkeys at this particular meineke are useless as well as sloppy. I explained both the hanger being welded to the safety loop and the way the bump stop hits it this morning. When I was describing the way the axle hits the exhaust the manager said, " so it rattles", I said no there is no rattle just a giant thud when the axle hits the exhaust when I go over a large bump. It has actually put a gash into the exhaust pipe. I swear, in response he said, " ok, it rattles". I patiently described it again and asked if they could relocate it. To which I was tols that it wouldn't be a problem. After I picked it up I drove it back to work before I thought to check anything. I looked underneath and sure enough nothing had been done to move the exhaust. Besides the fact that they did a half ass job in the first place, I'm annoyed because now I have to take it back again and not once did anyone offer any type of apology or regret at their poor craftsmanship. I'm also a bit sketched at this point about the quality of the other work done. No more chain muffler shops after this. :oops:
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I figured that's why I was getting the vibration. My stock hanger was shot and only being held on with giant hose clamps. I'm definitely going to ask them to move it to a better location. I also just noticed that if I push on the exhaust tip a little bit that it hits the gas tank skid plate on the way down and the mounting bracket for the fender flare on the way up. Hopefully they will stand behind their work and fix it with out a fuss and correctly line up the exhaust so it doesn't bang into anything. I figured I'd give them the stock one as a template. IIf anybody has pics of how they ran a custom exhaust(2.5in) over the rear axle that might help too.
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Ok and this is the pic of really sloppy workmanship. You can see a gash in the exhaust pipe where the bump stop hit it. I'm bringing it back tomorrow to have them re-plumb the exhaust. Should I ask them to move that exhaust hanger that's in the first pic?
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No sound clip because my camera makes it sound like I'm reving a motorcycle. I have a few pics though.
First pic is of how one of the exhaust hangers is mounted. I think this is why I feel vibration in the passenger compartment. Shouldn't this be welded to the frame?
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whoops there are new hangers on the exhaust, I just couldn't see them very easily. I think that its just that they are new and the rubber is super tight. I felt and heard the exhaust bang into something this morning when I went over a bump. I'm going to have to bring it back to the shop Monday for that and because they put the tailpipe so close to the rear wheel well that I'll never be able to put flares back on if I want to and if i shake the exhaust pipe it hits the bottom of the body panel. I'm going to have to get under there this weekend but it also seems like they routed the exhaust right over the bump stop on the rear axle which I think is a little sketchy.
On a positive note the pathy sounds pretty bad ass. I'll post a sound clip this weekend.
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The sound is definately nice. I do hope it will mellow out a bit. It sounds like a hot rod at the moment and thats not really what I was going for. I was hoping for it to be a little more understated. One question I have is my stock exhaust had hangars with rubber pieces that isolated the exhaust from the frame a bit. It seems like this new exhaust is welded to the frame directly which cuases a bit of vibration inside the passenger compartment. Is this normal?
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Its done! Just picked up the pathy. Its a whole lot louder than I expected it to be but I'll get used to it. It sounds really good though and I'm curious as to whether I'll notice any difference in performance. All told the shop was $280 for parts and labor -2.4 hours of labor and $80 in parts. I spent about 120 on the dynomax muffler from summit and a new high-flow cat. $400 total which is more than I'd thought but less then the quotes I got to replace it with oem equipment. I'll keep you posted on how it drives when I get a chance to play with it. Thanks to everybody for your input.
tony
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Nice, that's the same set up I got from Summit. Unfortunately the shop that I thought was going to be able to do the work doesn't do "custom"exhausts. They can only replace oem type exhaust ($560 installed!) This is a bummer since I pretty much limited to to where i can get the work done. Everyone pretty much recommends a mom and pop type shop but there is nothing close enough to my home or work to make it feasible to do that. There is on the other hand a mieneke accross the street fom me. Whats the deal, after all the trash talk of these types of places I'm a little aprehensive to go there. I don't think I've ever had a vehicle that needed exhaust work while I owned it so this is new territory.
thanks :bow:
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COOL, thanks guys I've got a shop in mind so now I just need to get me a muffler. :cool2:
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I have looked around a little bit and found this on the AC site.
http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...602aad973fbcba3
It is a cat-back exhaust that bolts on. It looks like it would be pretty easy to install. Has anyone used this product or have any suggestions. I think I'm going to have to live with the leaky manifold for now and just fix the muffler part until I can get some funds together.
thanks
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The pipe coming out of my muffler detached fully yesterday on my way to work. I've kinda been waiting for this to happen since i bought the truck a few years back. I have a leaky manifold and had told myself that when the exhasut started to fall apart I would fix the whole thing. So I'm fantisising of headers and new muffler and cat. Iv'e looked at the prices of individual parts but I haven't a clue as to what this would cost to have it done at a shop. I don't really have alot of money at the moment so I was hoping I could get a feel from you all what you paid to have this sort of work done. I'd be interested in the cheaper fixes too ie. repair manifold(if possible) and OEM type exhaust. I'd like to have a ballpark figure in mind when I look into a shop to do it.
thanks in advance
tony :bow:
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When I was a teenager Nissan had this great pathfinder commercial that featured a pathfinder pounding through a muddy jungle. The pathy looked like a legit truck and I looked forward to the day I would own one. The new ones don't really evoke any sort of response from me. I think that it sucks that Nissan felt the need to compete with gm and ford and create a giant glorified station wagon that looks like it would barely fit on a trail let alone be able to conquer it. I saw an 07 pathy in front of me on the highway yesterday, It was off in the distance but I swear to god I thought it was a ford. I wish that when these companies dramatically change the purpose and design of a truck that they just give it a new name.
RIP
pathfinder
4 runner
landcruiser
:oops: :sniff: :oops: -alcohol- :oops: -alcohol-
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OK, I think I need to clarify. I understand that I need to put the vehicle in reverse to fully disengage the hubs. On the auto hubs you can switch in and out of 4wd on the fly so to speak. First time I switch into 4wd I am always stopped otherwise I'll get a nasty grind from the transfer case. After that you should be able to go back and forth while driving at a slow speed without trouble. It's my understanding that when you switch into 2wd from 4wd while moving the hubs are still turning but they are not actually turning the front wheels thus allowing you to later switch into 4wd with out having to stop. The problem I have is that when shift it back into 2wd the light stays on and the front wheels are still engaged. Working the shifter back and forth a few times usually gets it to shift. If it's really stubborn I'll put it into reverse which so far always works. I was just wondering if there is something on the t-case or hubs that needs to be adjusted or lubed.
thanks
pathy doesn't want to start-wierd electrical prob
in The Garage
Posted
ARGHHH-Its not the battery!!!!!!!! The same thing is happening again, replaced both the battery and the F-link so I'm assuming now its got to be the alternator. The pathy ran fine since Saturday with the new battery until today when the same symptoms begain all over. Now I'm wondering if I really had a bad cell in the old battery. I guess I'll have to do the alternator next. This sucks I was totally about to buy new shocks.
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