ticker
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Posts posted by ticker
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I would say Lucas tranny additive. I put some of that stuff in the tranny and it worked great. You could add it to manual or auto tranny. Hard shifting went away and it seemed to run smoother.
I 2nd the Lucas, I used it in my BMW and it made a noticable improvement (37 yr old transmission)
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wow I have that noise on my 95. Unfortunaltly at 123,000 miles I doubt I could convince anyone but myself that the engine should be replaced by Nssan. Would be sweet though.
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i once saw a small block V8 in a miata, I guess that means anythings possible
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As far as capacity goes, I did't get the biggest cooler, because i wanted to be able to mount it forward of the radiator etc.. It is rated for 18,000gvw which seemed pretty good. After I got it and looked at the instructions the company recommended that id you were running it as a replacement, stand alone cooler t should be 2-3 times the size. Pathys weigh about 5600gvw so size wise it should be OK, right?
BTW after I hooked up the new one let the old cooler drain the little bit of fluid that drained out was pretty nasty, dirty, almost black w/ particulate . The fluid on the dipstick looks/ smells fine, but man i have to assume that that is the stuff that clogs the stock cooler.
It always amazes me to see people start a car and put it into gear in one motion. yikes
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Thanks - I wasn't sure how exactly it was supposed to work. This makes me feel a little better.
Keep on keepin' on.
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Last week I installed a Transmission cooler. In the instructions it said to feel the hoses (intake/outtake)once the transmission was warmed up to see if they were hot. I did and they are both hot. my unscientific finger method tells me that they feel about the same. Shouldn't one be cooler than the other? Does it have something to do with the car coming to a stop and therefore no air flow to cool the fluid. I don't want this attempt at saving the transmission to be the cause of its demise.
thanks
ticker
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Its done!!
The physical aspect of it was really easy. The PITA was getting the right hose to do the job. I stopped in at NAPA and asked for some 11/32 ID transmission cooler line. Without skipping a beat he picks up a little gauge and says OK well Ive got 5/16 which is only .03 smaller. "It will work no problem, the hose will stretch." OK it's not what I asked for but he seems confident. And I newbie to much of the car repair world pay and head home. I spent a good twenty minutes trying to get it on the cooler. and i came to the following conclusion- IT DOES NOT STRETCH, I mean duh its rated for 400psi. In the process of trying to get it on I put a couple of dents in the fins which does not make me happy. I finally try the hose it came with and it slips right on. At this point I remember that being told 3/8 ID will work so I head out to another NAPA to see if they have any. At this point I should say that at the other three stores I went to when I asked for 11/32 they looked at me like I was jackhole. So this time I skip that and ask for 3/8, She disappears for a while and finally comes out and tells me that they have no 3/8 but have something close. 11/32?, I ask. Yes she tells me but it will work for 3/8. Its the same exact stuff that came with the cooler. Thank god for a competent, knowledgeable person behind the counter. I went back and finished the job in about 20 min. I'll post pics when the camera returns.
Quick rant-
WTF, I am so sick of going into auto parts stores and being looked down on by the redneck hillbilly dumba%^ mother%^*&%$@ working behind the counter who don't know their a$% from their elbow telling me stuff like its the friggin gospel.
sorry if I offended any redneck hillbilly dumba%^ mother%^*&%$@ , we're a sensitive group:D
have a good night y'all
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my bad- :bow:
I did search but when i looked at that topic I just saw the link to the zip boot. To replace just the boot do you have to go through the entire process of taking the axle apart? that topic was for replacing the whole thing. Seems a little out of my league right now if thats the case
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Good Morning folks,
while I was under my pathy this weekend taking off the skid plate for another project I noticed that one of the CV boots has a huge hole in it. I consulted my haynes manual but it had nothing on the replacement of this item. After some NPORA searching I came across what looked like a DIY repair kit. It seems like this is a temporary fix as it has a seam that water and crud could eventually get into. But at the same time it looks pretty easy to do, Ive heard that replacing it with the original CV boot is a real PITA. I'm not even sure what it involves. Anybody done this? I'm looking for an opinion of skill level required and the basic steps of what it takes.
happy monday -alcohol-
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Update-
It was kinda cold yesterday so I decided to wait for today Sunday to do the install. first thing this morning went down to the auto supply store to pick up some ATF and some extra hose. The cooler I bought came with about 4 feet of hose and all the goodies I will need to attach it. The hose that comes in the box is 11/32 ID. Store #1 is out of stock maybe Thursday. Store #2 is closed on Sunday. Store #3 doesn't have it either.
That's it for the neighborhood. I had a bunch of other things to do so I'll hit up a couple more stores tomorrow. I went ahead and took off the skid plate and grill to see how I'm going to run it and to check to see if I really need more hose. I do. It looks like it will mount perfectly on one side of the radiator support. I might just have to get another for the other side(more is better!) because it fits so perfectly. Anyway here's the bone head move of the day When I took the grill off I didn't take off the indicator lights I just loosened the screws so I could get the grill out. I went inside for something and when I came out my pocket gets caught on the f%$#^% housing and rips it off. I broke part of it, but it looks like it may be fixable. Oh well could have been worse. Stay tuned -
I looked at the area in front of the AC condenser and it looks like it will fit right alright. If I can fend off weather and work I will attempt it this weekend. Unfortunately my wife's sister is going to be having a baby so the camera will be in LA all week. Ouch that came out really wrong I'm super psyched to be an uncle, I meant unfortunately that I wont be able to document the process.
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put the flares back on!
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I got a cooler rated at 18,000 gvw. The pathy is about 5600. Seems big enough no?
size is 7 1/2 x 12 1/2 x 3/4
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Hey all, after losing mutiple bids on e-bay for a transmission cooler I went ahead and found another source. I got a Hayden tube and fin style cooler for $27.00 USD. My wifes going away for a week so I was thinking I would have time to install in the next few days. I looked for a how to but couldn't come up with anything. Anybody got any tips,tricks or advice?
thanks
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I've been wanting to do that with mine for a long time, but I'm afraid I'll get to the last one and it'll b rusted really bad and then would have just wasted an afternoon messing with it. And i definately don't want to sand prime and repaint it.
On one side of the pathy the fenders look pretty clean, but a little discolored. The one with the most damage on the others ide was due to the fact that the PO must have been in an acciddent and when the flare was put back on it was loose and allowed sand and crud to get in there and do their thing. The back just has a little bit of rust.
As for spending all afternoon, it only took me about 30min to take all four off.
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Questions for you redpath88,
Did you take our flares off, and if so what did you use for the trim around the fenders? As for Slick getting tickets for no flares maybe it's the size of your tires. Mine barely stick out from the body which is why i think the flares looked so goofy.
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WOOOHOOOOOOO! I ordered my new Cl and brace last night. It should be here in a couple weeks. Now i just need to dig the drill press out of my father in laws shed and find a shop nearby to do the alignment. -bounce-
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I took advantage of some freakishly warm weather on Saturday to remove my fender flares. The plan was to take them off to take care of some rust i could see forming behind one of them. The flares do a lot of damage to the fender where they rub up on it. Over the next few weeks I'm going to sand prime and paint the areas that the flares covered. I really like the way the truck looks without the flares. I have small stock tires on there and it looks pretty good with the sizable space between the tire and the wheel well. I always thought that with the smaller tires that the flares made the truck look a little goofy too. Does anyone one know what Nissan put around the wheel well on pathy's that come stock without flares. The mounting points for the flares look kind of funny and on the front wheels the plastic shroud inside the wheel well seems like it would fall out if i hadn't put the bolts back in. This shroud seems to be somewhat ineffective considering the mud pack that i found behind it. If anyone had pics of a stock none flare wheel well i would love to see them so I can get an idea of what I can fabricate. I'll keep my eyes peeled for one around here but they aren't very common.
thanks
ticker
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OK so I've made my decision. I decided to go for it and get the L&P stage one set up. How difficult is this to swap out? It seems pretty straightforward. I have changed TREs before with out a problem and I'm pretty pumped for this upgrade. Here are the questions
1) How hard is it to drill out the idler and pitman arms to 5/8?
2) How long should this all take.
3) L&P requires a alignment afterwards, I've heard of people having problems getting their trucks aligned, any tips to get them to do it right the firs time.
thanks
ticker -bounce-
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It looks fine to me. (now that I know what it is
)It must be the angle of the camera. I think if it were bent like that I would have noticed and would be suffering much bigger problems. Thanks for the replies though, I have about 120,000 and the CL just went bad. Any thoughts on an idler arm brace? It seems like from what you guys are saying that perhaps the stock CL would be fine. I'm kinda torn to tell the truth. I guess I'll sleep on it. -
I'm not going to hazard a guess at the problem but it sound pretty bizzare to me that you are getting stuck in such a small amount of snow. I would think that no matter the set up of your rig that such minor amounts of snow and ice shouldn't be a problem. I mean while i understand that not all 4x4s are not created equal this seems silly that a properly functioning 4wd system would get stuck like this. Right?
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Hey, thanks for the pics, I got my tax refund over the weekend so I'm ready to buy the centerlink. I like the idea of the L&P centerlink but I don't do a whole lot of serious wheelin' so I'm putting this question out there. Aside from being a stonger set up, will adding the L&P centerlink/idler brace do anything for me if I only occasionally go off road? What about a regular centerlink and an idler brace? I'm trying to be cost effective here. I'm not the type to sink a whole lot of money into my ride willy-nilly, I'd much rather put money into things that are fucntional first, and any money saved here will enable me to do something else sooner. Any advice would be appreciated. :bow:
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good question lloydk. anybody know of a how to for this procedure?
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Cool-thanks for the advice. :cool2:
Fuel Tank
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I have an old BMW that's hard to find parts for, when I was looking to replace the leaky tank I was told that its possible to get it lined and sealed for much less then a new tank. I never had it done because I figured out that if I kept it a half tank or less then leakage would not be a problem. (well at least it wouldn't drip) It might be worth checking it out. I was told that radiator repair places can do it. The guy that gave me the advice said it cost him about $120.