ticker
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Posts posted by ticker
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it increases rear brake pressure when the rear is squatting (heavy load), and decreases pressure when the rear is lifting (heavy braking). the latter is somewhat important because you don't want the rear tires to lock up under heavy braking, when dynamic weight transfer puts most of the weight on the front axle (and the nose drops). less weight on the rear axle, with the same brake pressure, means you will lockup your rear tires more easily; and the front brakes will not be getting as much braking power as they're capable of exerting on the brakes/tires. the fronts do most of the work.
it should be an easy fix. just remove the snapped off piece, drill the piece that's dangling and re-bolt it to the diff. or you can go to a junkyard/pick-a-part and get the piece for a few bucks.
Nice, I like this this idea. Option 1 will be drilling and re attaching. Pick and pull sounds good but I've never seen an r50 at any of the local ones
they'll probably only sell you the entire kit, not just the broken piece, so it will be expensive. your best bet is to get a used piece from a junkyard, if you insist on OEM.I just got a quote from a out of town dealer $259 for the whole assembly.
Ouch! I cant seem to find it on any other parts sites. Thanks for the advice
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If it just bolts to the diff, should be easy to fix.
yeah it looks super easy to fix, i was wondering if it is a safety issue. I asked the guys at nissan north to price out the part for me, so hopefuly it won't be too much.
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Brake proportioning valve.
Cool it now has a name, thanks
ah yes.. there it is.. in the Brake's section.
sweet, thanks for the reference
the orange sitcker is usulally oval in shape isn't it?try jacking up one side turning 1 wheel (ebrake off, tranny in N) it the driveshaft turns when you turn the wheel its open, if it wont budge its LSD
thanks, I know how to check, I've just never seen the orange sticker in person since there was a sticker on the diff I thought I would ask.
So, Brake proportioning valve, huh. What weird thing to break. How important is this that it gets fixed?
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[/img]saw this this morning. I have no idea of its function or what it may be called. Any ideas? It is broken off the diff and is attached via a spring to what looks to be some type of switch. 98 se manual transmission, LSD(i think)
Thanks
ps-could the sticker on the diff be THE sticker, its not orange but its there and this is supposed to have a LSD
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Interesting, I probobly was gassing it pretty hard. I've only has this pathy for a few months so I have to put it into some more slipery situations to see how it reacts. I'll be sure to check it out at slower speeds and when the weather gets better crawl under to get a better look at the diff and/or jack it up and spin the wheels to see whats going on there. Thanks for the feedback.
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I was pulling away from my house yesterday and because of the nice 3in ice pack on the road I had no forward motion but could feel and hear the rear wheels spinning. I opened my door and could see the drivers side wheel stopped but the pass side spinning on the ice. When I bought the pathy it had what I thought was the original window sticker in the glove box. It has the "off-road package" listed which included the LSD. The VIN on the sticker and the door jamb match. So now I'm like WTF. I know that the LSD has an orange sticker, which I don't see, but it could be covered w/ dirt.
Is there any reason the LSD would do this? broken? something else?
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"i gotta get drunk"-Willie Nelson
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well, we had a storm coming in last night so I had to use another sylvania bulb, since thats al they sell at the autozone, $15.99, ripoff!!!! I saw the same bulb for 9.99 on line, but couldn't wait for it. Anyway I was extra careful to not touch it, since when I pulled the old one out i had a spot that had melted into a bubble on the side of the light. Contrary to my earlier statements, I guess I must of touched it, but I'm going to go ahead and blame the fact that I can barely get my hand in the little a$$ spot that they leave to do this in.
Also noticed that the bulbs don't sit well in the seat that is there in the casing, although the painful torture device, I mean retention spring seems to hold it in ok. I'm going to more research on these bulbs and alternatives for next time.
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no drl's but my wife is a big believer in lights on for safety, however I convinced her to stop turning them on a while back. She agreed to give it a try to see if that was causing it, but it really hasn't made too big of a difference. I have to believe it is the bulb or the set up in this vehicle, since I've never experienced this level of bulb failure in any of our other vehicles no matter how often we drive with the lights on.
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Are you touching the bulb when you install them? Oils from your skin can cause them to fail early as well
I'm really careful not to touch.
Thanks for the ideas, it gives me a few avenues to pursue. Anyone ever used MTEC bulbs? they supposedly last longer
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My wife has a 2003 Mazda Protege5. Its been a great car for us except for one thing. The headlights only last between 3-6months. Its an halogen H7 size bulb, lowbeam only. I don't get it. I'm really careful not to touch the bulbs when I change them even though you need to have hands the size of a five year old and be double jointed to get them installed. Anybody have any ideas? I think I changed one headlight in my WD21 in the 5 years I've owned it. In the 2.5 years we have had the Mazda I've replaced 5 bulbs. I've tried expensive silverstars, I've tried the cheaper ones. Any ideas would be appreciated as I need to replace another one and would love it if I could get this one to last.
Thanks.
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I have a VG '98 SE without ABS. My sister has a VQ 2001 SE with ABS. Her's is 100% stock, while mine has the OME lift, 31" tires and upgraded brake components, including Stillen drilled rotors, metal matrix pads and stainless steel brake lines.
I have driven my sister's R50 many times, and I really don't like the feeling of the ABS. The ABS kicks in too easily, and most of the time I feel that its actually hurting breaking performance. I haven't really done a side-by-side comparison, and the trucks are not exactly the same, but I am alsmost sure I can stop my truck from the same speed in a shorter distance.
With a properly maintained braking system, under 99% of circumstances I would rather not have the ABS. I know ABS can really help in some situations, but in the R50s it seems to be too sensitive.
I agree completely
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just don't mow over any kids when you're out around in your neighborhood.
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big mistake.
When you pull up to a stop sign and the ABS makes you feel that its not going to let you stop, that sucks. I'm aware of the benefits of an ABS system, I just don't like feeling out of control. I think that this ABS system is a bit over sensitive considering how slow I am going when it kicks in. I only plan on running it without when I'm around the neighborhood or playing in the snow. Like I said daily driving or driving at speed I'll put it back. I'm not really sure I see the mistake.
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I finally got to pull the fuse and compare the difference today. There was just enough snow to slide when the brakes were applied firmly. I tried it both ways and I prefer the feel and the ability to control the stop without the ABS on. That said, I think that for daily use I would leave the fuse in place and only remove it when it is snowing. Its a bit too sensitive for my tastes in the snow, but I think it would probably be helpful in general obviously it was installed for a reason. Thanks for all the help.
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Ha,you guys should go drive an audi in the snow.
oddly enough that is the other vehicle that I have driven with ABS that actually kicked in. I remember not liking the feeling then either, but it was definitely more refined. Audi Allroad, It was one of my favorite vehicles that I had driven, and I considered buying one instead of the R50, but was scared off by maintenance costs.
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Ticker, as Simon mentioned, I too have never felt the ABS in his WD21, but in the R50, it scares the crap out of me, more than the fact that I am sliding.
My old truck (mazda B2200) only had ABS in the back, and I never felt it. So it comes as a shock when the ABS kicks in on my pathy, feels like it shakes the entire truck.
Thats exactly what it feels like, and the noise mine make just sounds wrong. Kind of grindy and slow and loud!, as opposed to the stutter of other ABS I have felt. I'm going so slow when it kicks in that I feel like it is more detrimental then anything else. I guess I don't like the vehicle making a decision for me. The R50 is so much smoother and quiter then the Wd21, I'm already feeling like i'm not as in touch with the outside world, this just adds to that feeling of isolation.
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Good points made. The only vehicle I have ever owned with ABS was the wd21, and as I said I'm pretty certain it was't working. So I guess that I'm not to worried about being used to having it. It's good to know I can pull the plug so to speak on the ABS so I can test it out. There may be something wrong with mine anyway since it makes such a god-awful noise when it kicks in. I let you know how it goes. Its snowing right now so well see how it goes later.
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I think that my R50 has ABS on the front brakes where as my WD21 only had it in the rear, although I never recall it working. I find the ABS really annoying. Is it possible to disable it easily so I can see the difference? right now if there is the tiniest bit of snow it makes a horrible noise as the ABS kicks in. It doesn't seem to be helping me stop any better and its actually really distracting. Can I just pull the fuse?
Thanks
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Thanks for the info, I found some others at Rock Auto that were pretty cheap as well. Any recommendations on brand?
Rhino pac
Sachs
Valeo all are about $160 for the Kit
Beck Arnley-$223 for the kit
acdelco-$188
Any opinions?
The good news is the noise seems better, I have only been getting it for one or two shifts at start up, compared to every shift the first day I heard it. Its a bit warmer out and the pathy got a major cleeanig, which I know won't help mechanically but It makes me feel better
. I got a call in to my mechanic to price out the labor. I don't see myself having the time or ability(tools, space etc.) to do this myself. -
That's a bummer. What should I look for for signs of failure? Will it just stop working? I'll have to start saving up for a clutch I guess. Thanks for the help.
-T
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I drove from New York to Ohio last night with no problems. Just about 600miles. This morning I went to the store and when I put in the clutch I heard this strange noise. It was like a whirring noise, or like a bad pump type of growling. Noise went away once in gear, and seemed a bit better at speed. No slipping and it drove fine. It was pretty cold this morning, 20F but no colder than its been lately. any ideas?
1998 SE 5 speed. 111,000 miles
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I can't belive nobody commented on the first part of this post. My 95 was awesome in the snow. It always felt like I was velcroed to the ground, never had any problems as far as traction went. How are your tires?
As far as the heat goes, I was never overly impressed with the defroster and heat output, although it wasn't any worse than any other vehicle I have owned. It definately improved after cleaning out the blower motor case.
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"no regrets"-king khan and the shrines
need help identifying this broken part
in The Garage
Posted
Yeah, after close inspection drilling it out is not an option anyway. There isn't enough meat left on that end there to work with. I don't think I can fab one out of Bar stock either because of the way it curves around the diff.
BTW the local Nissan dealer got back to me with a quote of $316 for the entire assembly. Being unemployed currently I don't think that is going to happen. I'm going to take off the piece that is still bolted to the diff and see what it looks like and see if I can get it welded together.
Thanks for all the help
-T