ticker

Too bad you don't live somewhere hot and with a beach. I need a vacation. Its really not to bad to do This is my painless method Here's my set up. One hand pump like this(I don't think I spent this much but you get the idea) http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...08074_200008074 one or two 2 2/2 gallon buckets. I found them at target for $2.50 each surgical type gloves 1-make sure you have the right fluid! 2-test the fill plug to see if it is going to come out but don't remove all the way. This is so the overfilled fluid doesn't come pouring out all over you and the floor(trust me this sucks) 3-put bucket number one under drain. open drain plug, let drain for a few minutes. replace drain plug 4-If necessary jack up appropriate side of vehicle, mine is the passenger side. This is so you can overfill transmission a bit if required. 5-take out fill plug, put right end of pump into fill hole. I wedge it in using the exhaust so it can't back out. 6-Use other bucket as a safety for the bottle of fluid. Place open bottle into bucket. This way it can't fall over. Sit comfortably next to vehicle and pump till its empty, continue until fluid reached recommended level 7-replace fill plug 8-rock on

I know, but all I could think of was not being able to get it back together or busting something important and I wigged out. I really have no mechanical training, self taught through trial and error, and I usually mess something up the first time around and this just seemed like there were too many potential things to screw up. The KS is under the lower intake manifold, necessitating the removal of both upper and lower manifolds and the unhooking of countless hoses, connections, and wires. As far as not calibrated for that spot I hear you. The engineers obviously put it there for a reason. They just neglected to contemplate how that placement would make the cost of replacing a $60 part that is held by one bolt ridiculously difficult not to mention expensive. I'm willing to take the risk. I already have the KS and another couple bucks to get it done seems worth it. It seems like it can be reversed if necessary.

Found this link on Nissanhelp.com http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/...relocation.html I've been getting a CEL for a while now and am pretty sure its the Knock sensor. I tried to run new grounds as posted in another post but after a few thousand miles it came back on. I decided to go for it and replace the knock sensor. I ordered one and two weeks ago set out to change it. I got as far as getting the upper manifold off except for one pesky hose in the way back that I could not freaking get to when I realized that I still needed to take off the lower part of the manifold too to get to the KS. F'in Hynes manual makes it sound so simple-NOT At this point I was pretty freaked out that I had unbolted and unhooked so many things from my more or less running fine engine, so I put it all back together and called it a day. Since then I all cleaned the connections that I can get to and so far the CEL has stayed off but I'm assuming that it will be back. I'm intrigued by the possibility of relocating the Knock Sensor and the local Nissan dealer has the harness called for in the write up for $22. Thoughts, opinions on this procedure?

Update- Its been unseasonalbly cold here for the past week and cold shifting has been just horrible. Today was the fist day I've had to put in the MT-90. Hopefully this will take care of the problem. On the bright side I've changed the gear oil 3 times in the last 30 days. The first time I was covered in dirty oil and had to throw out the shirt and jeans I was wearing because they smelled so bad. Today I did it in less time, only went through one pair of gloves, and only managed to get a few drops on the floor. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it feels when cold.

It always looks easy when watching someone that knows what they are doing. I had to put tint on the small piece of glass on the back door of my '95 after it was broken by vandals..twice! It's not complicated to do but I think that having it come out looking really good takes a lot of patience and practice. I don't know if your planning to try to do it while the glass is installed or what but I know that it was challenging enough to get it cut and installed properly while working with it flat out on the dining room table. I think the pre-cut sounds pretty sweet and removes a lot of the potential for screwing it up(assuming it is cut properly). That said I miss the tint on my old pathy big time and wish the new one had it too. I felt so naked at first in the R50, while does have that weird gold tint on the back windows ( not really effective) I would love to get back to the cocoon feeling of the super tint on my 95.

DOH, I meant the transmission I don't know why i wrote transfer case. I'm going to fix that.

Well I left at 6:30 this morning and It wasn't as bad as I thought. It was cold enough to frost the lawn and windows, but the shifting didn't seem to bad. Stiffer than it was with the old oil but I can live with it. No whine this morning. The other day it didn't want to up or down shift into 2nd or 1st very quickly, like the gears weren't synchronizing fast enough. Maybe it just needed a few days/miles to work itself in? I may try the lucas first as I don't really feel like changing all the oil again, although I am getting pretty good at it. Thanks

cool, thanks for responding. I'll be interested what shifting feels like at 6:30 tomorrow morning as it is supposed to go down to 38F tonight.

So its been a few days since I put the Sta-Lube 85w-90 GL-4 in the transfer case transmission. (Manual calls for the impossible to find 75w-90 GL-4) As I was forewarned, when cold shifting into 1st and 2nd is a bit stiff. I'm not really thrilled with this. I also heard a bit of a wine for the 1st half mile or so this morning. It was cold(relatively) last night, about 50 F and I'm concerned what is going to happen when it gets to be 10 F outside. I found out that JEG'S, which is right down the road sells REDLINE MT-90 which I've heard good things about. Anyone running this in their R50? Moved from original thread due to lack of response/ subject change Original thread http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24016 reason for edit...brain fart, thanks steve

So its been a few days since I put the Sta-Lube 85w-90 GL-4 in the transfer case. (Manual calls for the impossible to find 75w-90 GL-4) As I was forewarned when cold shifting into 1st and 2nd is a bit stiff. I not really thrilled with. I also heard a bit of a wine for the 1st half mile or so this morning. It was cold(relatively) lat night, about 50 F and I'm concerned what is going to happen when it gets to be 10 F outside. I found out that JEG'S, which is right down the road sells REDLINE MT-90 which I've heard good things about. Anyone running this in their R50?

I got it....Junkers for Clukers!!!

I'm sorry what exactly are you calling BS? If you read closely you would see that the dealer did not submit it as a CFC car therefore the Federal gov't has no claim. Heres the full story. Note that most of the comments below are pro dealer. http://taxdollars.freedomblogging.com/2009...for-sale/36999/

Saw a story on the news tonight about some folks in California that traded in their 2001 Xterra for a new Volkswagen. They did it under the CFC program and got 3500 for it. Apparently a few weeks later they were surprised to see it all clean and shiny for sale on the dealers lot for $5900. They are pissed "because they wanted to get that gas guzzler off the road". Apparently the dealership had second thoughts and decided that it couldn't justify it as a clunker and put it up for sale like a regular trade in. They didn't submit it to the GOV for reimbursement so they apparently have done nothing wrong. Dealer said that $3500 was a fair trade in for the Xterra. Honestly the people who traded it in as a clunker should have their heads examined. The idea was to get people with crap cars that were worth less than the CFC trade in price to get new cars, not junk new(ish) cars so that you can prove how great you are. I say good for the dealer. Thanks for not using our tax dollars to junk a perfectly good ride.

I made the harness from spare wire and some wire connectors and bolts from the auto parts store. $10 vs $90+ from the dealer. Its raining like a mofo today. I'll take some pics tomorrow.

95' Champagne Gold 98' Black

So after 2 Advanced Auto's and Auto Zone I went to NAPA, Car Quest, PepBoys, O'reilly, another NAPA, Wal-Mart, and a Nissan Dealer. I found 1 product that was API GL-4 made by sta-lube from the NAPA which is so close to my house I could walk there. The only thing was it is 85w-90 not 75w-90. This is what I'm going with. Most every one I spoke to at the autoparts stores said that GL-5 supersedes GL-4 which from everything I have learned is not correct. This seems like a pretty messed up situation for someone wanting to put the correct oil in their ride. Thanks for all the advice and help. BTW the Nissan dealer uses a GL-5 Castrol Syntec at $17.99 a quart, no thanks my ass already hurts from driving to 10 different stores.

Haven't found it yet. Just went to 3 stores, 2 advanced and one Auto Zone. Each had exactly the same products although one had no 75w-90 at all. The others had Valvoline which is a GL-5 oil, and they both had Coastal which is compatible with GL-3,Gl-4,GL-5 which freaks me out as most things that are intended for broad apllications do none particularly well. One interesting note. Advanced was selling the Royal Purple 75w-90 for $19.99 while two blocks away Auto Zone was selling it for $14.99! What a rip off. Strange that it seems like there are an awful lot of vehicle s that require a fluid that is so hard to find. I'm going to call a few other places and see if I can't track some down. (

I'm going to drain and refill. It seems from the initial drain that most of the fluid will come out. I put in 5 quarts and that came right up to the bottom of the fill hole. I can't imagine the little bit left inside could do much damage. Interesting that you say that it MIGHT harm the tranny as that is what the Mobil website response is to a question about the harm to "yellow metals": Will Sulfur in Gear Oil Harm Manual Transmission Synchronizers? I want to change the manual transmission fluid in my 2002 Toyota Echo. Your 75W-90 gear oil (Mobil 1® Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 ) is a GL-5 rated gear oil, which it says can be used for manual transmissions. It also says that it contains sulfur and phosphorus, which are extreme pressure additives. Won't the sulfur in the gear oil eat away my synchronizers in my transmission? I am looking for a straight honest answer. -- Rick Dow, Mason City, IA Answer: Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil is recommended for all applications where a GL-5 lubricant is specified. GL-5 type lubricants, which have a higher level of additive chemistry, can be corrosive to yellow metals such as copper, brass, etc., and in these applications a GL-4 product is usually specified. Oddly on the data sheet under features it states "Excellent rust, staining and corrosion protection of copper and its alloys resulting in Reduced wear, Longer component life" http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...t_LS_75W-90.asp as far as I know brass and other yellow metals are copper alloys so I'm not really following on how these two statements can exist about the same product. CYA anyone. Moving on.. If if recall the only options at the auto parts store were Valvoline or Coastal for GL-4. opinons? Nissan recomends Castrol but I can't seem to find it.

nope says gl-4, I've heard the same thing about dealers putting in GL-5 too but I think there are differences in the additives different brands use. I've read alot of anecdotal evidence of GL5 esp Mobil1 not being good for Nissans. The 2000 FSM (thats the one I can find) spec GL-4.

I e-mailed the service dept at Nissan North ( columbus) to see what they thought. Hopefully they'll have an opinion.

Found this today. Thought it might be helpful. http://www.scribd.com/doc/19272248/2000-Ni...-02-Maintenance Sorry I realize now that this link is kind of useless,

Well as far as I can tell I screwed up. The bottle, nor Mobil web site says nothing about compatibility. I know there are better ways to waste $50 and an hour of my time. I'll have to drain and refill with some GL-4. Any thoughts on putting the drained Gl-5 into the diffs(gl-5 is spec)?? will be tainted with the old fluid. I'd like to salvage this situation if at all possible.

let me claify. You are using GL-5 without negative effects? I found this Nissan TSB which states either gl-4 0r Gl-5 is acceptable. This is a confusing subject. There seems to be a lot of opinions but little in the way of documentation. Thanks for weighing in. NTB94_100_2_.pdf

The pathy was due to have the transmission oil changed. I was looking at my choices and I was looking at the Valvoline 75w-90 gl4 oil when the Royal Purple caught my eye. Too expensive but right next it was the Mobil1 75w-90 which was about half the price. I thought hmmm I've heard good things about Mobil 1. So I decided to go for it. Heres the stupid part I never even looked to check if it was GL-4 and didn't notice until I was done that it was GL-5. I've read conflicting reports about the suitability of it for Nissan transmissions. Any thoughts? Anyone running this? I figure if need be I can drain and put into rear diff. Separate but related issue. When I took out the fill plug, oil came pouring out of the hole. How is it possible to overfill when you can only fill it to the hole?

Bring a hammer and screw driver when checking out the new Pathy and go to town on the frame especially from above the rear wheel well all the way to the bumper. You also might want to check behind the flares if it has them for rust. Its amazing how well it can be concealed. Good Luck