ticker

KBB lists the dealer retail of a 92 at $2750 and private sale at $1500, whoever traded it probobly got $4500 from cfc. It would be hard to pass up an extra 3G. You should find out what JY there sending it to. The engine is murdered, but I thought that the rest was up for grabs at the JY.

I like the idea, will have to see what wallet dictates first. Thanks everybody

Bummer, I'm guessing this means I'll be needing a water pump in the near future. I've never had a water pump die on me, any ideas on what the scenario is when it goes? ie, Must stop instantly and pull over and towed home or is it possible to limp home for repairs?

Wouldn't the water pump bearings be making noise all the time if they were bad?

temp in normal range, doesn't do it at start up has to have warmed up a bit. hmm..........If that's the case who ya gonna call?

Yup, they are OK, level in reservoir is closer to MIN than MAX but within spec. Radiator is full to top.

For months I have been hearing this intermittent noise coming from the engine. It is not a squeak or a squeal like a belt would make. It is not screeching like metal on metal. It is very much like when you rub a finger around the top of a wine glass, it has a resonant quality to it. Of course it is the type of noise that goes away as soon as there is anyone around to take a crack at diagnosis. It doesn't seem to be affected by engine speed although sometimes it will stop when the engine is revved. It happens in gear or out and with or with out the clutch engaged. I was trying to pinpoint a location today by listening with a hose but without success. Then for some reason I decided to squeeze the upper radiator hose and the noise stopped like I his a switch. Let go noise begins again. I tried this about 15 or twenty times and it worked every time. I had to squeeze it fairly hard to get it to stop. So what do you think this means? I have no idea, just thought I'd ask. 98, 5 speed 118,000 miles Thanks -T

laundry detergent seems to work better than dish soap in my experience and you only need a little bit. Less scrubbing with a brush required too. Rubbing it into dry hands is definitely a good point. I wonder if powdered laundry detergent would work better as it would be more abrasive??

Liquid Laundry Detergent works wonders for dirty greasy hands. I read about this a while back in a magazine and have had the opportunity to try it a few times and am always amazed at how well it works. Much better and faster than most hand cleaners. If this is common knowledge forgive me but I thought it was worth mentioning. Try it, you'll like it!

One of the wires that leads to a connector off the positive battery side on my 95 was corroded and eventually broke. I had all sorts of problems similar to what you are describing until I figured it out. I ended up getting a new wiring harness form the dealer. If i recall it was pretty reasonable and never again had any problems. Good luck

So I added a new harness and it seems to be working. I don't know if this deserves a sticky or not but It's an easy and cheap fix for this problem. Thanks here's the how to: nissan_o2_sensor_dtc_repairs.pdf

It seems to be working. I've put about 600 miles on the pathy since I adjusted the harness to the correct mounting points. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed.

Nope, CEL came back on after about 60 miles. Oh well at least it only cost a coupe bucks. I think the next step is to replace the knock sensor. I really didn't want to because it involves taking off the exhaust manifold which looks like a real PITA. Since I have to take the manifold off just to check it I figure I might as well replace it while I'm in there. Question; do I need 2 manifold gaskets? one for each side? or when purchasing "exhasut manifold gasket" it comes with both? Thanks T Crap, i just looked at the instructions again and see that I may have attached the sub harness to the wrong spot on the manifold. It is supposed to attach to the original ground points that are more towards the center. I'm going to re attach, re set the ecu and see what happens. Disregard above until further notice!!

I know that when i priced out replacing the exhaust with oem type on my wd21 I was quoted about $500 parts and labor

Well I figured it out. The bolts in the top of the manifold are M6 x 16mm and the ones in the engine block are M8x 16mm. This whole thing only cost about $10 in materials. Which is pretty good considering the Nissan part was around $100.00. Seriously overpriced and a bit insulting really. Hopefully this will take care of the problem codes the ecu was throwing. first pic is top of manifold with the new bolts in the front second is how wires are run using the white zipties third is the engine block bolts near alternator

Thanks, That's what I thought. Is there anyway to figure out the bolt thread and size from the part number so I can get it at the auto part store? It is supposed to be larger than the ground bolts in the manifold. They're only a couple bucks from the dealer but the auto store is so much closer to my house.

I have been throwing some codes and it was suggested that I check out this TSB because it is multiple codes as once and suggests a bad circuit: "There is a TSB concerning some of these codes. NTB99-004b. Says it may be a poor ground connection. A new ground sub harness is recommended to be installed. Sub harness- 24075-0W060 Wiring clip- 01552-00401KK Hex Bolt- 08146-8121G Thanks to 5523Pathfinder After following the test procedure on the attached document I'm pretty sure that this could be a fix. The sub harness which looks like two wires with loops on the end costs anywhere from $85.00-$100.00+. Which seems crazy considering how basic it looks. Is there any reason why I can't fab something like this up? Thanks nissan_o2_sensor_dtc_repairs.pdf

Nice Heads up, I know that these have been mentioned but I think its good to remind folks. I bought my 98 and when I filled the tank the next day gas came pouring out of the rusted filler tube. I'm sure the jackhole dealer knew about it, why else send me on my way on 1/4 tank? Anyway, a quick search let me know about the recall and the Nissan dealership took it in a repaired it in a few hours no problems. I just gave them the VIN so they could check to see if it was covered. Gotta love free repairs.

That sounds like a real pain in the arse. At least you could easily get to it in the WD21. The way it was written up in the Haynes Manual made it sound so easy. I guess that it will be easier to pull the battery cable which is what I'll do. I want to reset the ecu because it was throwing a code, I tried something to fix the problem and now I want to see if the light comes back on. I know I can wait to see if it goes off on its own but I'm impatient. thanks

I want to clear the ecu but I'm not sure where it is. It was under the seat in my 95 but not in the 98. My haynes manual tells me how to clear it but not the location. I read somewhere that it was under the dash(drivers side) in the R50 but I don't see it. Do i have to take the dash apart to get to it? It would be great if someone could tell me with a bit of detail where its at. Thanks in advance.

I had a set of Goodyear Wranglers on my old pathy. They weren't anything fancy, but they held up well had decent traction and only cost $50 each at wal-mart. good luck

sweet thanks to both of you, I'll let you know what I find out.

My CEL came on yesterday. I had the guys at Auto Zone pull the codes which are below. I used the search and got these definitions but I'm not really sure what they mean or how to begin to address the probem. Advice, hints, magic spells?? Also is it cool to drive it as is? seems to be running ok Thanks P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1 edited title to better reflect topic -T

done

So I got rescued by a guy in a wrangler last night. Fortunately it had nothing to do with any Nissan vs. Jeep shenanigans. In an attempt to unhook the battery earlier in the day I busted the strap that holds the positive cable to the terminal. At the time it seemed like it was going to hold on till I made it home , which was about a hour away. Halfway into the trip I decide to stop and get some gum. I leave the Pathy running and when I get back in I turn the headlights on and bam-dead pathy. So now I'm trying to get the connection to hold , Ive got crap for tools( toolbox going back in today), and although I'm getting it to start once or twice , turning the lights on makes it shut off again. At this point I'm not really sure whats happening. I know the connection is bad but it also seems like maybe the battery is drained too. I'm starting to stress because my wife and baby are with me and I really just want to make it home. This is all taking place at a gas station and nobody has given us a second look. This is when the jeep that has just left turns around and asks I need help, so I ask for a jump which works and I get the headlights on and I'm psyched. I definitely owe some good carma now. I make it all the way to my house and as I am backing into the parking space the pathy dies again and I have to Fred Flinstone it the last five feet.. I feel like one lucky Guy. So a BIG COSMIC THANKS to the dude in the maroon jeep and the powers that be that kept that battery connected for the last 40 miles. . :beer: