gacruiser

I had one for my '91. Just get an adjustable, universal model. They work great. If I had it to do over again, I would get one made of tubular steel. These can be found in most pet stores, Walmart, or Cabelas for $50-70.

Febreeze is simply a masking chemical. As the previous poster said, get one of the enzyme odor killers (Nature's Miracle or Simple Solution are both good) from the pet store. If they'll kill the smell from a male cat's spray, they'll kill the mildew odor. The secret is making sure the source of the smell has been thoroughly saturated with the enzyme.

There's no way your 4wd is functioning if neither of your front tires is spinning....

Just fixed this same problem tonight on my '91 PFinder. I figured it had to be a relay, but none seemed to have a problem. No tach, no shift indicator lights, no voltmeter, no gas gauge, no temp gauge. Felt like I was starting off in 3rd gear (I was!). In frustration, I checked the fusebox. Blown "ignition switch" fuse (upper right - 10amp). Dohhh! -={Cruiser}=-

Yep, had a Mercury Cougar with a leaking modulator valve. Years later, believe it or not, had the same thing happen on a 1979 RX7 with an auto. Looked like a diesel running down the road! I don't believe the Pathy uses a modulator valve, though...

Some will disagree with my observations, but no, the switches to either side of the steering column are not backlighted. I bought my '91 SE new and they were never lit. I thought something was wrong until I looked at 2 other new 'Finders on the lot at the time and theirs didn't light either. A small oversight on Nissan's part, I guess...

I don't know about the 95 (the A/C and center console is slightly different), but just finished replacing bulbs in my 91 A/C control. There are 2 "wheat" bulbs (small, only available from Nissan) in my automatic climate control. These 2 bulbs light up the temp scale and the controls, including all the pushbuttons for vent control. The fan and temp slider knobs have LEDs in them and probably never burn out. You have to remove the control itself and partially disassemble it to get to the bulbs. The factory service manual was sparse, but gave enough info to get to the bulbs. There were a total of 7 screws attaching the control to the dash that had to be removed to get the control out of the dash. That was after removing the console bezel (4 screws), the radio (4 screws), and the ashtray frame (2 screws). The radio and ashtray could have been left in the dash, but it was easier to unplug the wires from the back of the A/C control with them removed. HTH, GaCruiser

Actually, after doing quite a bit of online research, and not wanting to pay the high price for the Energy Suspensions Formula 5 grease, I found several options for urethane bushing lube. Most of the high-performance automotive crowd is using the Neo Synthetic Watercraft grease for lubing aftermarket urethane suspension bushings. It's main advantage is the use of teflon rather than aluminum for its anti-seize characteristics. It also has a wax base, which makes it waterproof and very sticky. One suspension website likes to use Permatex Anti Seize (in a tube) instead of the above, but again, the Permatex uses an aluminum compound instead of teflon. Because the Neo product is specifically made for applications involving water contact (food processing equipment, boat trailers, etc), it might be a better product for our offroad suspensions.

No, I wanted to keep the coils and use the airbags to level out my truck. The rear coils never lifted the truck up as much as the front UCA upgrade I made. That, coupled with the weight of the tire carrier makes the rear end sag giving my truck a "baja" stance. This gets even worse when I put the boat on the back and load it up with gear. Here's an older picture from right after I installed my lift kit: You can see the difference between the front and rear ride height. Air Lift Kit This was the kit I was considering as long as I don't have to order it from AC. I was not sure if the bags will be tall enough at full pressure to make contact with the upper and lower spring seats to make a difference in ride height. The only other thing that may be limiting the amount of rear suspension travel would be my stock Nissan adjustable shocks which I have no idea how far they can stretch before bottoming out... BrSurfer Do you have aftermarket/JGC/Calmini rear coils? Or are you running stock height? If you're still running the OEM adjustable shocks, my guess is that they don't have enough extension to allow your rear suspension to lift. Have you tried disconnecting them to see if the ride height increases? BTW, I think Mr. Jim runs (or did run) airbags in his Finder.

Well, I don't have one of those new-fangled color GPS units, but I do have an older Garmin GPSMap 76S. It's been a fantastic unit and I really like the ability to plug in an external antenna. Even with the internal antenna, it outperforms our office Etrex units by a large margin. I can even receive 2-3 satellites while sitting in my living room, on the middle floor of my house! Because it's waterproof and floats, I use it all the time on my jetski. Last week on vacation, it worked great for navigating the Intercoastal Waterway and the tidal creeks around Beaufort, SC. We would have had a hard time navigating with maps alone....those tidal creeks all start looking the same after awhile. Of course, I had preloaded the topos for the area, which also shows the navigational markers, marinas, and boat ramps, as well as the coastal island/marsh detail. If I have a complaint, it's because of the slow data transfer to and from the unit. The GPS manufacturers have taken a long time in moving away from the old, slow, serial interface. To load 20 megs of maps in my unit can take 35-45 minutes! I note that the new 76C(S) has a USB interface, which would be worth the extra money to me. http://gpsinformation.us/gps60c/g76Creview.html

No. The strength of the factory brushguard is nowhere nearly strong enough for winch duty, even with reinforcement. Plus the fact yours appears bent. My first brushguard was bent in a minor accident. I replaced it with a TJM bullbar. No comparison WRT strength.

I know where a '96 Black twin turbo has been sitting for the last 3 years. Has under 30K miles. The guy hasn't driven it since he bought his Chevy Trailblazer. Been trying to buy it, but he's out of his mind on price..... :furious:

Yeah Pickles, I've towed quite a bit with my '91 auto Pathy. Normally, at 70-75 mph, I'll get 18.5-19 mpg. With a medium U-haul (5'x10'?) enclosed trailer loaded with about 2500 lbs of furniture, it will get 13-15 mpg, depending on hills. I used to have a large Pop-up trailer, weighed about 1200 lbs. Would get 15-16.5 mpg on the highway. As an aside, I've tried dropping my highway speed to 60-65 mpg (no trailer), and have seen the mileage shoot up to 20.5-21.5 mpg on long trips. This is with stock 31-10.50 BFG AT KOs.

North of Atlanta, in Buford, GA. The older Pathys are getting few and far between around here.

Not yet!

Do yourself a favor and replace the Bosch with some Hella FreeForms or equivalent. You'll be glad you did. Factory replacements are nearly as much as the lights, although you might find some in a junkyard.

Grease the two front hood bumpers with some white lithium grease. You might also unscrew them slightly so they make better contact with the front of the hood. I know, sounds crazy, but I've seen it eliminate "interior" dash squeaks on a number of 'Finders (including mine).

Sorry to say, Bamafinder, but you may have to sink a bit of cash into your finder just to straighten out the trans/engine problems. If you're loooking for a cheap lift, the IFS Nissans are not the way to go. By the time you rebuild your trans and do a body/suspension lift, you could easily sink $4K+ into it, and then you have to buy tires and wheels... What kind of shape is the rest of the vehicle in? (body, paint, frame) If they're good, you might be better off trying to sell it and find a better base vehicle. I see good condition 94-95 4x4 Pathfinders go for $4-5k around Atlanta.

Unless your voltmeter is attached directly to the battery, you have no way of knowing if there might be simply a voltage drop at your cigarette lighter plug (I'm assuming that's where you've got it connected). That said, get a cheap VMM at Rat Shak (~$8-10) and connect it to your battery posts. When running engine with lights off, you should see 13.5-15V. If less than 12.8V, you probably have a dying alternator or voltage regulator. With engine off, you should see 12V+ across the terminals. If less than 12V, your battery's either not fully charged, or you have a dead cell.

As several others have suggested, check the Auxillary Air Controller (AAC). It's located at the rear of the engine on the driver's side, right behind the EGR valve. There's a 2-conductor plug on the top which you can remove and test resistance on. I had a similar problem on my '91 this weekend, which I diagnosed as the AAC. Resistance should be approx 10 ohms. Mine was over 70 ohms. Here's a link to the part: http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/?year=1990&...imageField.y=11

"He quoted the part #73872-01610." Oooopsss! I just looked at the parts bag. The correct number is: 73872-01G10

Couldn't find my receipt, so I had the local Nissan parts counter look it up for me. I believe it's called a "Glass Protector"? He quoted the part #73872-01610. Locally, the gasket is $75. You might also try a couple of online resources: https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,Nissan http://www.nissanautobodypartstore.com/cgi...nder-parts.html http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...=49&catalogid=0 The latter site has the gasket for $43US. I can't take credit for the above sites, the users on this board found them long before I came along. HTH!

The dash light is indicative of a bad indicator switch. Mine has been intermittant in the past, but clears up when I wiggle the shift lever back and forth. I figure the switch contacts have gotten corroded or worn, although I haven't had any problems in the last year or so. As one poster mentioned (above), it sounds like you have your dash switch set in the "power" mode, rather than in "auto". That will cause hard shifts and the exact symptoms you mention.

That sounds extremely high. I can't recall how much I paid, but it was probably half of what you were quoted (maybe $40US?). I'll see if I can find the receipt. Failing that, you can get an online quote at the following website: http://www.autonation.com/dealers/brown/grubb-tempe/

My 91 Pathfinder has the factory sunroof, and the outer gasket is breaking up near the hinges, as well. I ordered a new gasket from Brown & Brown Nissan in Tempe, AZ, but haven't installed it yet. It appears that the new gasket slides over the edge of the glass, and I'm assuming it will have to be glued on. I'll be changing it out in the next few weeks, so will let you know how it goes.