unccpathfinder

this is going to sound kinda stupid but all the holes along the side of the CS hoops are for fasteners correct or no? if yes what do they connect to? If they carry any good amount of load I would probably want to have at least an edge distance of 4D to hopefully prevent any cracking/shear out... Looks good so far

i THOUGHT gps WOULD HAVE BEEN?

Yea your right B...increase the purity of the emissions (decreasing the bad them as you say) The stamp I thought I read about sometime somewhere on aftermarket parts like headers had to have some approval stamp...I agree with you completely on who cares what you did to make it pass as long as it passes but I had this whole badass vision of the smog folks here in CA and are asses even if you did pass emissions but had some "unauthorized equipment"...I have yet to pay them a visit yet...I guess that day will come eventually

yep...it makes sense to me...my 87 was decently accurate up until 55 (about 3mph off) when I swapped to 31's now at about 70 it was off about 8mph... if you were comparing you're speedo to your buddies...that means your calibration would be as good as his plus an error of you guys matching speeds... so if its a 10% difference...at 20 MPH your actually going 22 but at 70 your doing 77 as explained above...you changed the "gear ratio" by changing the OD of the tires...do a google search there are some converters out there or figure out the math... i know the gf's jetta came from the factory about 5mph off on the slow side though

Yea...we had a lot of talks about complete combustion in thermo and how some of the more modern engines were going to dual spark plugs to try to increase complete combustion... I think this would be a great way to increase emissions...but will CA smog a vehicle with this on it if it doesnt have that specific stamp? even if you showed them on 2 tests back to back the difference it made (be it significant) Keep on trucking TC...I hope you get some real results and possibly learn some tricks along the way to maybe optimize the system

Thanks HTT...could you PM me some references or was that just out of "previous knowledge"

DOH...I remember when I had my AC charged and the guy must of had it over pressure and a leak on the HP side it blew the cap off while I was running down the road and heard it and it left a smaller dent than that but still was loud as hell... at least you didn't have a huge blast and catch the truck on fire or anything... better go ahead and get a switch installed that the relay only sees power when the ignition is in the run position You could have a pretty high tech "Tater gun" with that setup...

you sure its not the throwout bearing? a growl to me is like a howl which isnt grinding...so if its doing that and thats it i'd think either throwout or main...I'm not sure how you check the main though without ripping the tranny apart and just replacing it

I'm well aware of the process and the efficiencies of power plants (mechanical/aerospace engineer) what i'm not aware of is the conversion of energy from one format to another and how that effects the laws of conservation...I know point A = B and most is going to be lost in heat/friction so how does it become more efficient b/c the further you drive the less potential energy which has been converted to heat via combustion and friction not convinced...now if you were using a natural occurring resource like wind or solar power to produce the electricity I would agree.. I'm not trying to discourage or hamper trails progress b/c I'm really interested to see if it works...I understand the philosophy but just not the actuality

Everyone keeps talking about COE...but I don't really know how to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy into heat and chemical energy...I don't think you can produce more fuel than you burn but I can't say it for a fact b/c I don't know how to make all the conversions...but it was just a thought I had the other night... Anymore updates?

unless somehow it sprays out onto the clutch...then you've had a bad day... Also I'd make sure that its for sure coming out of that little hole and not running down from around the starter area on hte inside of the bell housing from either the valve cover gaskets or oil pressure sending unit...just give it a good inspection before deciding to rip'er apart

Yea thats how I assumed it would go...I just think for me theres too much risk of injury/death for me

that looks like some pretty serious flex...I wouldn't be terribly worried about it if its an occasional rub...possibly go for a little lift and/or narrower wheel with maybe a bump stop or a spring retainer or tether to keep it from flexing beyond a certain point (which defeats the sway bar disconnect)

yea if its not running down from the slave cylinder like slick said its the RMS (rear main seal) which sucks...but its a good time to go ahead and change the clutch and rear cam shaft seals

Go buy a Modine brand new (about $300 but you won't be disappointed)...unless you accidently put a screwdriver threw it like I did which voids the warranty...I found a modine on a pathy in the you pull it lot and got it for like 8$ I seriously think they put it on like 5 mins B4 they got T-boned...lucky me

NAPA

cool...I just don't think I would feel comfortable with 800lbs+ hanging over me 7-8' off the ground..A 75lbs did a # on my hand from just about 8-10" off the ground... Did you do the reinstall the same way? I think that would be a touch more tricky/risky

Then how the hell do 10000 sea gulls appear as soon as you crack open a jar of mullet or shrimp?

Manual transmissions notorious? I know both my 95 and 87 had been run at some point and time low on oil and neither has whining noises...my 87 has issues in the winter time going to 2nd gear but i figured out the shift style on it so it gives no problems and the 95 has a syncro problem in 1st that I learned how to handle in it as well and no problems for me... I didn't notice an increase in fuel mileage on my MPFI over my TBI If its a carolina truck and hasnt been down at the coast too much you shouldn't have any rust to worry about...I bought my 87 8 years ago with 190K miles on it and it got me all the way up to like 270K with a timing belt break at 225K and then trash got dropped in the cylinder during a plug change at its demise... I'd be willing to bet its going to need the exhaust system replaced...my 87 has a trashed exhaust when I bought it and about every 4 years the rear pipe would rust out

no smog...its in NC...they flash the lights honk the horn and check for an SES light (sometimes) and sometimes check light alignment and spin the wheels for bearing checks and do a buncha other random checks...ohh yea they look to see if you have a cat and muffler...but 99% of the times I went it was honk the horns and flash the lights...all that other stuff happened the last time I went b/c the guy was like dude dont even bring that in here with that exhaust leak b/c you'll fail and i looked at him and said fail what? and he went on and on how i'd fail OBDII so I was like alright I bet you my inspection price it'll pass and he took it and then tried to find something to make me fail b/c guess what...he stalled it out on the way in the garage so I didnt let him drive it out of the shop and he was pissed about that too...but I got my inspection paid for...a whoping $9 I have had batteries like that from NAPA and Advance (which I hate getting parts) a lot of places don't keep them charged like they should so they can go bad on the shelf...sometimes you can charge them or give the truck a jump and then its all fine and good...but my luck sucks so I always get the bad parts... but yea easy fix and everything works..except for the locks sometimes (pretty sure its the drivers side switch b/c if she taps it a couple times it works so shes going to check the connector sometime but hasnt yet...

looking good...all these SAS's going on and I'm starting to think more and more about it...esp with that dana 44 sitting in my garage with an airlocker...I just hadn't taken the time to figure out gearing and what not...I look forward to seeing the completion of this

Like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j41sTPj0ERw

I've never loosened the T-bars or disconnected anything except the upper BJ and lower BJ and then removed the hub and retaining spring...manipulated the wheel so that the LBJ could go in snug it up then put the top in and hub back on and done... I dont think loosening the Tbar is going to help unless you lift the UCA up and hold it b/c ultimately gravity is going to pull it downwards where it is normally stopped by the spring force of the through the LCA...anywho theres lots of info on here Good Ref: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...p;hl=Ball+Joint Search Results http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?act=Se...+Joint&st=0

Yea I was speaking of solar and wind as an individual car not a national level yet so if you could build a home/mobile station to produce fuel to store then I think that would be a more practical method than producing while on the road but if mixed with fuel could increase efficiency you could drive further on a single tank of fuel Another thought would be to create some sort of brushless motor for all 4 wheels that could be used to generate energy while rolling (granted I know this isnt creating energy but is it really increasing the friction to over come so you can recoup some of the energy lost? or even if you were coasting down hill you're turning potential energy into kinetic energy which would in turn go to electrical energy and so on and so forth I interviewed with these guys and they're fixin to build another solar plant out here in CA in Boron...I found the technology very interesting and even if it was cloudy they have the ability to use CNG to produce energy at still a lower emission rate than coal fired plants http://www.fplenergy.com/portfolio/solar/index.shtml

Finally got an update...she took it to my buddies house and they threw the battery on a 24hr cycle charge dropped it in the truck and nothing better than B4. They then threw a load tester on it and it said bad...took it back and got another battery and its working fine... I guess my cousin blessed the guy out that told her it was the starter b/c he got smart again and siad I already tested it once and its good...he should have some fun with the manager that checked it and saw it was bad...but I'm glad thats all it was...now onto getting it here after it passes inspection today (knocks on wood)