unccpathfinder

sounds exactly like what my 87 did...pop off the top timing belt cover if u see just the cams and no belts then u broke u're timing belt...if you did what i did and hit the clutch as soon as it died then you may have saved "major" damage...i bent 3 valves #1 and #3 intake valves and #1 exhaust valve...funny thing is i had just refueled and thought it was a bad pump so i would bump over to the 3 pos and heard it prime up so i knew it wasnt that and knew then i was in big trouble... what we did was since i was on a broke bank account was get a new belt put #1 at TDC and get everything back in time and crank her up to see what happened... pulled plug wires 1 at a time to see if the motor stalled or changed idle speed and thats how we found i had killed 1 and 3... i got all new valves and a master gasket kit and rebuilt her in 3 days due to wrong valves being sent by napa's warehouse the 2nd from the right is a straight valve the others are all bent and was my only carnage from breakage

i was also talking about the 2 doors...the lil triangles...so i hope i didnt mislead you cuze i forgot to ask what year

pretty much u gotta pull the entire truck apart (interior panels) and then its like 3 screws...im gonna try to find my pix where i installed my 6x9's and upload them so u can get an idea... well that was a big negative they were lost in a dead hard drive along with my project pix for my 75 trail duster...

so what was the difference in the motor mounts that was stated earlier?

i should be square there cuze its a full motor(so i could take olds or go buy new 1's for that block and be on point)...only concern i have is that he replaced a 90k motor with a 45k "because he had it" which is fishy to me but i dont care as long as the bottom half is not burnin oil b/c i plan on taking my old motor and building it up just for more power...opinions on that...i plan on questioning more plus it seems like 1 of those too good to be true deals...

so im putting the *94* motor in an 87 pathy so that wouldnt pose a problem would it? if i changed heads wouldnt my old exhaust manifolds still mount to the old head? and the same for the intake? how are they different? as in im going to have to drill new holes or fabricate new brackets? i also have a manual tranny and im guessing your saying it needs to be dropped (do a clutch change cuze i need it) and then put the motor in and put the tranny back in...or are u saying im going to have to relocate my tranny mounts as well?

sounds good...i cross referenced gasket #'s and other common parts in the motors and the part #'s were all the same...and i would prefer to go with the same year but im having problems finding them at a reasonable price so if i can find something that'll work then im gonna go with what the bank account can handle...

im not looking to change out my ecu and all that good stuff but i am going to need a new motor and my plans are to have 1 ready to drop in when i pull the old 1 out... i am curious how similar the blocks from say an early to mid 90s pathfinder block is to the 1 in the 87 (3.0L v)...i didnt know if the heads and intake have all the same bolt patterns and what not as well as if they'd mate up with the driveline.

my 87 does the same thing...lemmie know how that goes with the grease B4 i go pulling out the gauges cuze if i do it 1st it wont work...and then if it works for all of yall it still might not work...thats how it goes i guess...

i went to home depot and got some 3 or 4 ft wide vinal and got about 4 ft of it and that was plenth to do both sides...i dont have the pix uploaded anywehre right now but i pulled off the tires and took some empty beer case cardboard from the night B4 and made some templates...traced it out cut them out and put some small stainless nuts and bolts thru the holes where the old plastic push pins went...that stuff is pretty tough and it keeps the motor about 85% cleaner than when i only had half of them hanging down...

like all the above said...sounds like syncro issues...is it still under warranty?....if so i'd suggest not taking it in quite yet...cuze if its like most dealerships they'll say "cannot duplicate"... i would say drive the gears hard till they break and then take it in os they have to fix it...or take it in and if they give u the cannot duplicate BS then drive her hard till they break...but that stinks and hope its still under warranty

also check the battery for corrosion...my truck will act like she has no power if theres any corrosion on the battery but not that bad...and do what 88 said as well...i was backfiring a lil so i did the cap and rotor and she quit that but nothing as extreme as what ure saying

my 1st attempt at that turned out not so great...the guy i had gotten it from had amazingly crossthreaded #6 pretty good and the plug wasnt even 1/4 the way in...luckly with lots of time and easing it in and out i got the threads worked back out and it went in just fine...but i dont like changing those back 2 plugs they're just a pain...

yea i live like a quarter mile from school so with gas and the $250 parking pass and lack of parking near the new engineering building (bout a mile from the house) i just bought a 100 bike and ride it out there so pretty much i only drive for beer runs and wheeling which the trail i ride in town i can almost throw a rock from my backyard and hit it... any1 ever heard or restore? a buddy of mine throws it in his van and siad it stops it and he does it about every 3 months...im not a big fan of throwin stuff in the motor cuze sometimes that makes it worse than what u had...i think i should just let it till its burnin all the itme or a majority of the time and not just a puff here and there (dont wanna be too big of a pollutor) just gotta decide now if i wanna sell my trailduster (or even better put the pathy body on there if i cut down the frame) buy a mazda 3 or something cheap with good gas milage...make the pathy the rig then decide if i wanna mess with putting the 350 im in the process of rebuilding in her or in the scout as originally planned... but getting rid of the pathy is not an option im keepin her forever

haha i thought u were meanin my motor was in the middle of the deal of being done haha... thats cool is that the 1 in MD?...im just gonna keep on drivin her till they go completly cuze right now im not noticing a significant drop in oil plus im not driving more than like 100 miles a month so it'll be ok for now but not really sure what winters gonna throw at me b/c i think the cold weather always makes stuff worse on my truck

whats that mean...im FU..................done? ....i really wish she wouldnt have done this right now...

did a top half rebuild about 3 years ago...so i was figuring it wasnt the valve seals...but that would be awsome...i've got 250k did the rebuild at 225 when a timing belt broke... yea i've dropped an email and left a message on here about that other motor but no response yet...

alright its finally confirmed....the motors blowin blue/grey...doesnt happen on cold crank or warm crank only when the truck has sat at idle for a lil while then hit the gas and it smokes but not constant just a lil puff... im thinkin rings whats every1 else thinkin?

i donno the diff in the 88 and 87 but im pretty sure its similar and i didnt have the amp...but its a really big pain ot change the speakers out...not rally a big pain but it takes time cuze almost every body panel has to come out and i had gotten an amp already not knowing if i had factory amp or not but figurd i iddnt cuze all i had when i got my truck was 2 4.5's in the back so i just ran all new wires it took a couple hours of course we were drinkin beer and shootin the bull... but IMO i'd just get an amp and rewire everything while ure at it to get the sound your lookin for instead of going back later and makin it better good clear up 88

i've got the 5000's and they're kinda stiff on the back end but perfect up front IMO...my buddy has a honda passport and he put kyb's up front and something else in the rear and we do a lotta fishin on the coast in his truck and when u get where theres lots of cross ruts with consecutive bump/humps he bottoms out way too much and i think its a more crappy ride then in my truck...i got used to the stiffness really quickly the onlything is people dont like speedbumps if they're sitting in the back seat b/c i sometimes forget about them being back there so they get jared pretty good

did you just adjust anything on the drums? b/c sometimes in mine after i do work on my drums the light will stay on for a lil while until it wears in the shoes i guess...but i know a guy that has a 95 hardbody with the 4 cyl and ever since he had the truck so he just put black electrical tape over it so he doesnt have to see it at night

in my 87 i put the rancho RS5000 and it was good up front but the back is way too stiff since its so light...i would say the rancho's are alright up front but i'd go with a much softer shock in the rear maybe something like a billstine but not sure how those ride on 4x4's but know they were sweet on my buddy's trans-am

pulled the column apart today to try and figure out wiring in the bump switch for the starter...on the ignition i know u have 4 posistions, the 4th being the relay and starter and the 3rd being the ign so i havent figured it out completly cuze im not a big electrical guy (thats the roomates job) getting better but not at the level that i trust myself yet and dont wanna fry something...so i unhooked the starter wire from the harness and in fact the starter wont go on now but u could still hear a relay kick in when bumped over to 4...so i unhooked the relay wire and everything else still works fine as it should if the ign was set to 3(acc) but the relay above the fuse box would still click... i didnt understand this b/c i have the starter and relay wire unhooked...so whats left is the bat + in, ground and the ign wire which turns on when the key is set to pos. 3 in acc...(all checked w/multimeter) so my roommates been busy all day and this was just a quick 20 min mess around with B4 the race and panthers game came on...but i have DPDT momentary bump switch and just curious if i could hook up the relay wire and starter wire to it and everything work out even tho i dont know y that or how that other relay clicks the wiring diagram didnt help out too much b/c the wire colors are wrong and the fuse that was suppossed to diconnect the starter didnt break the circuit cuze she still cranked after the fuse was pulled... im sure im not looking far enough outside of the box or just missing something really simple b/c this shouldnt be that difficult

brakes are a good thing...i lost a master cylinder 1 day on my way to school...all i gotta say is im glad i have a manual...cuze i had 0 brakes...that sucked really really bad...drove it the next 4 days till i could get parts and time to fix it... my brakes are actually puzzling me...they'll get soft randomly and if its left over night or something the peddle is firm as if it were pumped while the car was off...im guessing i get condensation in the system when it starts cooling off b/c if i bleed them i'll get that nasty greyish water in fluid to bleed out...but its just got me puzzled cuze it ususally happens on season changes and im not loosing fluid anywhere

haha...congrats hope u dont have to experience any bangem uppers...cuze those suck esp when its not ure fault and u get the ticket cuze ure the 16 unexperienced driver going 0 mph sitting in the left turning lane and get hit head on 5 days after u bought ure truck grrr...