unccpathfinder

alright got it fixed...everything was good but i guess when i hit some bumps on campus i didnt have the plug all the way in for the hazard lights in the trim piece b/c it had come undone i plugged it back up and everything is back to working fine

got in the truck this morning and ran up here to the library to do some research and the turn signals worked fine for like the 1st 2 turns or so and then i noticed they werent working and i pushed the hazard lights button and they didnt work either i checked the fuses in the box under the steeringwheel...im thinking its a relay or maybe a fuse under the hood any1 had this problem or know what it is. i also installed my cb yesterday but i dont see how that could affect anything b/c i hard wired it into the fuse box under the horn fuse...(hmm idea i didnt make sure the horn still worked but the cb was so i assumed that that fuse was still good...i'll check after the library)

im not sure how long it takes to flat spot tires but i've heard of it happening so if ure relatives could maybe move it like a foot or 2 every couple of months i think u would be fine and i'd coat'em up with some conditioner(tire magic or something like that) or if ure using a car cover i think that should cover them up

i changed some valves and the belt and she ran like a champ to find TDC u could place a rod thru the spark plug hole...like a welding rod or something in the #1 cylinder (make sure its long enough to not fall in) and rotate the crank and see where it is then i'd take a punch and make the mark (thats what we did with mine during the top end rebuild)

i wouldnt say its slipping yet...i rode in my buddies trans-am when it was slipping and it would hit 2k and the motor would just rev if he was doing hard acceleration and if he was easy it'd go... but i'll think about changing it here asap

i really havent heard of too many problems with the stock mounts? didnt really think our motors put out enough torque to break them maybe im mistaken...but also some sort of diagram or drawing would help explain it b/c im not 100% sure what ure trying to make

i'd go with 2 white depending on price but im sure that it wont be too bad...

sweet the part #'s checked out there too so if i have to do it all i need to do is pick up a pilot bushing and get after it...i dont think i'll be tackling this soon...I got some traveling to do on some follow-up interviews for a job after i graduate so hopefully it doesnt go completly out yet... it doesnt seem to slip all that much just up hill and like i said only 1-200rpms...but i do think it contributes to the "syncro" problem in 1st gear in the slightest bit... Thanks for the input tho

hmm im gonna go ahead and ask it but im also gonna check part #'s...i have a clutch and flywheel i just installed on the 87...its still not running so...if its the same part #'s im just gonna drop the tranny outta it steal the clutch and flywheel from it... does any1 know right off the bat if the tranny's are the same (just for future knowledge) and if not are these the same parts? im getting ready to research but figured i'd ask anyways ::edit:: ok just looked for both the 87 and 95 and the #'s were the same so that seems to be ok...but still does any1 know if theres a diff in the 87 and 95 tranny/transfer case im just wondering if i needed to sometime down the road throw the 87 tranny in the 95 if it was the same and according to some auctions on ebay nissan used the same manual tranny from 85-2002 in the pathy's but uhhmmm 86.5 was the 1st pathy...but assume they're talking about the D21 which i understand to be the same as the WD21

it seems as if my luck is going to keep its path of being crappy. yest and today when i first started the truck and started backing in reverse and 1 time today when i started going forwards right after i started it for the 1st time on these days i got some weird howling noise and the clutch pedal vibrated a lil bit and it only lasted for like 5 secs or so so i'm assuming that it was the throwout bearing... and I noticed sometimes while going up hill the truck kinda "hops" the RPM's dont jump high ammounts maybe 1-200 at a time when its doing that so im guessing the clutch is starting to go...this is on the 95 i just got (i knew before buying it it was gonna need a clutch within the year b/c it has a buncha miles on it i'll have to look thru the book to see when it was last changed but i know she was told she needed to do it within the year)... :sniff:

yea i just put an 86 in my 87 although i havent compeleted it yet b/c of $ and needing a dependable DD so i bought a 95 but plan on finishing her up once i get the $... all i did was pull the flywheel heads and intake change the rear main seal and bolt my stuff up and eveything matches up... u will have to: swap the location of the dipstick swap the oil pickup and some other odds and ins i cant remember right now when u pull ure motor what i did is put all the bolts where they came out then pulled all the brackets off of the maxima motor and sat them side by side and swapped everything over so i didnt mix up parts ohh yes i did forget i didnt have the right puller for my crank gear and when i rented 1 i couldnt get the 1 off of my old motor and the only difference is is the timing belt covers...i checked and it still seals it all up so mud isnt a problem...but this means u have to change water pumps....DONT get the maxima water pump the flange is different and the snout is too short...get a D21 4x2 water pump and it'll work out just fine unless u can get the crank gear off to get the i guess u would call it a "front main seal" with its casting off and swapped over then use ure old timing belt cover and the reg 4x4 wd21 wp

i've got an 87 and until its warm it'll idle at like 2k and when it starts getting warm itll go between that and 800 until its warm and then it stays at 800...i asked my buddy about it who owns a junkyard and he said every nissan truck he's had (that was manual) did that so i donno? i've always assumed it was just trying to warm the motor up faster and once it was warm it'd kickdown

im actually getting ready to do the same thing and i havent measured but i have a cobra and it wont fit under the radio so i think what im going to end up doing is putting the cb on top of the radio and move the radio to the bottom i'd just have to make some custom brackets... heres a pic off of a diff forum

take the flares off?...im actually getting ready to put mine back on the 95 i just bought...umm the only thing i could say is load it down and try to see where its rubbing and maybe take a cut off wheel and modify them? or get a lift if u tow a lot u might could get some stiffer springs or what not in the back?

i'll see if my neighbor still has his up and see if he'll run it for ya if i dont get back with u just PM me cuze i mighta forgot about this thread

heres what those rails look like that i have... i dont think it'll work for ya tho...the injectors look pretty different... i also have the distributor...dont think that'd work for u but it also had the wires chopped when they pulled it

if its the same fuel rail thats on an 86 maxima or lower or upper intakes i've got those if u'd like em they look similar in the pix but i dont know if their the same and i need to get them outta the garage i was gonna throw it all on ebay but if its something htat u need and would work just throw me shipping and i'd send it out...but i did forget u've got ure old motor so that should work i found a good way to get out those old broken exhaust studs is to soak them in pb blaster and/or wd40 then get an screw extractor set from napa or a local parts store and drill it to the appropriate size and hammer in the extractor and take a pair of vice grips to bakc it out i've had to remove about 7 studs like that between my 1st upper rebuild and this maxima motor i got for the swap... i think i've finally mastered removing broken studs

Good Luck...after this weekend im gonna let my truck sit...really i think i just need a battery and to put oil and coolant in then cross my fingers and crank but im gonna hold out for a couple weeks...im getting a 95 from my cuz...she lost her job and finally wants to get rid of it (really wish she woulda decided this about 2 months ago so i coulda bought hers and worked on mine on the side) but good luck hope it all goes well like 10x better than mine did and just as a backup throw a case in the fridge or a 1/5th in case you need to chill out for a bit...

welcome to the boards...sounds like u shouldnt have a problem turnin that pathy into a nice rig

i think u could grab some from a junkyard...or possibly the stealership...i actually just cranked mine today but it wasnt really a crank per say when i pulled them off for the motor swap i marked them and rotated back 1 spline (2 was way too much) i forgot earlier what it was but i think most people refer to that as reindexing them and then cranked them up so they were in the crossmember and it set the front of my truck back level...i think its easier to adjust the front splines than the 1's that go in the cross member if u'd like depending on what year u're truck is i could snag some bolts from the junkyard here and ship'em out but it'd prob be the weekend B4 i had time to do it b/c my truck is still dead and im so busy between work and school during the week but if thats a thought just shoot me a PM

clogged cat or muffler?

i might be mistaken but the 4 bangers arent interferance motors are they? i hope im right on this b/c i'd hate to give false hope...if thats the case then u can get it knocked out pretty quick prob like 4 hrs if u take ure time

thats awsome good luck with the install...hope it goes better than mine did which i plan on finishing this weekend for like the 4th weekend i think

sounds like a pretty sweet deal...does the warranty cover things like a timing belt break and/or the accessories or u should prob switch some of that stuff over...the 1's i looked at the waranty was kinda shady and seemed like they really wouldnt honor anything if it broke

i did have a votlage regulator go bad...and my dashlights/headlights and what not would get brighter with acceleration...this is bad and im pretty sure on all of our trucks the VR is built into the alt. so changing the alt will fix that...on a side note advance autoparts alt's suck really bad and i went thru 4 in a matter of 6 months and took it back told them it was a POS and went to napa and havent bought a part from advance since except my warn hubs...