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RedPath88

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Posts posted by RedPath88

  1. Since you have another penetrating oil on order, I'd recommend that between now and then, if you have not already done so, saturate the front AND back (firewall side) of the lower stud with PB Blaster (which has been my decades long, go too.)

     

    Now you may need to pull/flex the MC a bit to make space between it and the firewall, for the oil to effectively run down to the lower stud.

     

    This may resolve the issue or help until you can acquire and apply the use of a dead blow hammer to it, as Frenchy rightfully suggested.

     

     

     

    That said, IF all else fails, I absolutely would not be afraid to (carefully) take an angle grinder with a narrow disk to it.

     

    Disconnect all lines and protect them. Then drain and suck out all the fluid you can (using a simple baster or fluid vac) and cover every open line to prevent contamination. Keep water and/or a fire extinguisher nearby, just in case.  If you don't overheat it (grind in steps, using water as you go to cool the metal in between) or grind into the fluid chamber, then this should not be an issue.

     

    Simply trim off the upper MC mounting flange near the top of the center core. And if need be, the forward reservoir (nearer to the reservoir) to allow you to effectively get to the firewall side.  Once separated and removed, it should allow you to start rotating the remaining MC mounting flange on its lower axis, back and forth (with penetrating oil) using locking, adjustable pliers, or a similar clamping tool, to break it hopefully free of the stud.

     

    Ask me why I know this could work... well, because I've done it before.  I just don't recall if it was on the '75 Monarch or '82 Escort... :shrug: 

  2. Welcome to NPORA!

     

    Got your email and all your "backup threads" have been deleted :D

     

    Guessing you're using Tapatalk? It has been a known problem for a very long time, where it does not appear to post a new topic, only to find out after multiple submissions that it did... every time the button was pressed.  I'd take it up with them, again, but in multiple times I have over the years that we have, they always blame us rather than offering an actual solution.

    • Like 1
  3. 20 hours ago, hawairish said:

     

    Ha!  We dealt with certs in my last line of work and there was nothing more annoying than a cert not getting renewed.  For the most part, it was my IT guys getting the renewed cert beforehand and just not swapping it out.  Difference there is they were 2-year certs, so an outage always caught us way off-guard.  An expired cert was a total blocker in my line of work, and I could spend hours retrieving and processing missed data as a result once restored, not to mention damage control with multiple clients simultaneously.  Absolutely sucked.

     

    That said, what's with the 3-month certs? Is there another cert authority that the host accepts that last longer, or is that just the CA of choice for the domain host?  Guessing in a perfect world, the 3-month cert isn't a problem if auto-renewal occurs.

     

    The 3mo cert is a newer feature included with the backend database management software and is free, so I can't really complain to much.

    I just need to set a reminder a few days in advance, since the "auto" part of it is clearly not. lol

  4.  

    So I've watched Andy for quite a long time now, and although he bought this Pathfinder a bit ago he's finally made a video, about it, specifically.

     

    Perhaps members of the NPORA Community can reach out to him, directly or in his comments section.  Maybe even get him to join the NPORA Forums, help him out with some helpful information and advice.

     

    Thus giving him more exposure to true Pathfinder/Terrano enthusiasts and maybe providing NPORA with more YouTube exposure! ???

     

     

  5. 1 hour ago, adamzan said:

    What are the symptoms?

     

    Good question! lol. It was a few weeks ago when I noticed the issue, hard shifts like the clutch was not fully disengaging, but in the couple shifts I made it was not consistent (but didn't seem like it a low hydraulic pressure issue)

     

    To be honest, I didn't have the time to play with it then. I noticed it after blacking out of the driveway, N to 1, then 1 to 2. But in a hurry I just backed up to the driveway the and pulled back in and hopped in another vehicle.

     

    Yesterday, I didn't drive it, just warmed it up and cycled it through gears without moving. Everything seemed fine.

  6. Started and let it run for a while to allow some fluids to cycle through it, while simultaneously fully heating up the interior. Also did the same with the Suburban.

     

    Need to find a way to carve out some troubleshooting time to diagnose the clutch issue, which I hope is not the actual clutch!

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