Kn0xville

sooo what pictures are you looking for? with the stock wheels and 2 in lift? or the other? AND, if your gonna do a lift, should go with the 3in not the 2. If you do the 2 inch youll hate yourself and always be wanting that extra inch.

i had the rear end problem (wrong fluid) it was more of a clunk though. happened whenever i was taking off and turning... and even more while in reverse. If you have any doubt that the wrong fluid is in there you should change it anyways, even if it isnt where the sounds coming from.

i have the factory service manual for a 95 pathy (pretty much the same) its on my puter, and pretty big, got an idea on how to get it ya? maybe somewhere i can upload it or something?

turn the push lock botton thing and take it off. pop off the inside door handle trim. 2 or 3 screws under the arm rest i believe. inside the armrest (the little handle type job thingy) there is a plastic cover covering another screw. Pop the door switchs out with a screwdriver and unplug the wiring harness on the back side of it. then all around the door panel is lil orange clips, pull, and they will pop out, but dont lose them, you need them to put it back on... i dont think i forgot anything, and hope it was clear enough for ya.

i got it all under control thanks guys

thankx, now how about the length of the shock with the 3in lift?? or should i just get stock?

im about to order some shocks for the 93 pathy... what i need to know is the measurments from mount to mount with a 3in SL and if i need eye or stem style of shock.. thanks!

oh.. and www.4wheelparts.com has a nice deal on the procomp3000 shocks for fathers day weekend. All 4 shocks, and a steering stabilzer for $135.00 plus free shipping.

L&P Performance. I run their center link and idler arm and love it! They use a stock center link and beef it up with new ends and bushings and back it all up with a 5 yr gaurentee. They are also about half the price as anyone else. Id really recommend them and have never heard a real complaint about their products. www.lpperformance.com and for the UCA's, you can get em about a hundred bucks cheaper from roughcountry. Also, ive been told that the JGC coils in the rear will sag easily with some weight in the truck.. and that the Ford ones are pretty stiff. I just ordered some from 4x4parts.com to rid of any doubt and headaches. Sooo... UCA's, Rear Springs, Upper Ball Joints came to about $300 bucks. (im not complaining at all)

i got some UCAs from rough country coming in (good price!) thy only make em for the hardbody, but they fit the pathy.. just dont tell em its for a pathy or they wont warrenty them. Also got some rear springs coming in from 4x4parts. And if you dont offroad your pathy to hard, you probably wont need the new t-bars, like said above, just re-index them. Also, i have the L&P steering system and i love it! and VERY well priced so ya... www.roughcountry.com www.4x4parts.com www.purenissan.com and www.lpperformance.com is what i can think of for parts.

well i have new UCA's and rear springs coming in the mail.. ill have the 3in SL soon!.. so it they wont be for a stock pathy.. and if they are stiff then they are not for me. I think ill look into the proComp or bilstien, i really dont wanna pay the price for the ranchos. thanks guys.

does anyone here run the shocks from Calmini?? i was wondering how they compare to rancho's...im looking for a nice comfortable ride on the road... ALSO...can someone tell me if Calmini's upper ball joints will fit and work properly with stock UCA's?? thanks!

i dont have much for pathy parts laying around besides some stock rear springs... but i might be interested in the cd player if you wanna sell it? do you have a model number of it that i can look up?

things to look for when buying any older pathy is the typical rot spots... under the rear seats, the frame, and rockers. Also, if you dont know if the timing belt has been replaced, then better off to replace it (really not that hard to do). If theres any noise from the engine, it might not be the valves, so dont let that scare you, its usually the manifolds. Make sure the 4x4 works, check the oil and other fluids. Theres always the normal pathy probs too that are very minor, example, the interior lights flash off and on when driving. (most likey the rear hatch). If you do buy one, my personal advice is to get it OIL SPRAYED right away! everyone should do it all vehicles anyways. call your local body shop and ask where you can go get you car oil sprayed (frame). it'll prevent it from rusting. FEEL FREE TO ADD TO ANY OF THIS.

there is 4 wires in there, theres one that is just bare, and on mine it connects to nothing at all.. not sure what its there for, so i left it alone. And your MAF itself could be fine, and the ground could be not doing its job, its very common on our old pathy's. Been there, Done that Oh.. and Nloach.. i noticed the ontario plate... Windsor here.. where are you? Close??

also... if you take it apart again... make sure you look REALLY close to see if one of the two wires in the MAF arent broken.. and you can pull the O-ring (seal) out to see if its ok.

ok.. first off... the white wire is the signal wire. The black wire is the ground. And the black wire with the white stripe is the temperature wire. (there may be a bare silver wire in there, just ignore it). get a voltage meter. put the positive probe on the ground at the connector, and the negative probe on the intake manifold with the engine running. if the voltage is less then .009V, than its OK. if its more, then next to run an additional ground. best results come from soldering an 18 gauge wire at the connector, and running the other end to the same ground spot as the engine systems are using on the intake. When done doing all that, measure again, and should read .003V or less on the meter. Once ground is good, measure the voltage at the signal connection (white wire) Voltage with the engine running smoothly increase to about 4V at wide open throttle. And i hope you understand all that.. its really pretty simple to do. good luck! Oh.. your engine will run funny for the first few minutes while the computer registers what just happen.

its pretty common for the ground on our maf's to go on us. you could do all the voltage reading if you want to check it first... OR, just run a new ground from it. there is 3 wires in that plug that plugs onto the MAF itself.. one of them is a ground, you can splice into it and run a new ground to the body somewhere. I cant remember what one is the ground, but i can find out tomorrow if you like? I can also give you all the readings to check if you like?? let me know and i'll dig it out for you.

seriously try putting some grease on the outside of the pads... a smart man on another site told me to do that and it worked, and been no squeaks or squeels for almost 6 months now.

i made some bigger holes in the rear on my 93.. was pretty simple, if you pull everything down, you can get to the metal 'bar' that holds them in.. take it down and cut the holes bigger for some 6x9's. all in a days job

did ya fix the prob yet?? if not, my pathy did the same thing.. i put a lil brake grease on the OUTSIDE of the pads and the squeak is gone

howdy all.. I am LeftHandedMOnkeyWrench from A?C..some of you might know me just thought id say HELLO TO ALL. oh.. and i'm Kris.

how ya all doin! i was wondering if anyone has bought the T-bars from www.swayaway.com? If so, how are they? and what ya pay for them?? they dont post prices and was wondering what a set is gonna run me for my 93 Pathy. Also, im about to order the UCA's from www.roughcountry.com and was curious if anyone has any insite of them either? thanks guys! OH!.. almost forgot.. does anyone have the shocks from rough country? IF so, how are they?? im looking for a nice ride ON the road, since i dont wheel to often.. thanx again.