Rick13

I took about 17 total photos of the install but when I was done and going to upload them I only found my last 2 = sucks. Sorry Andrew (Shift220). I ended up installing the following: *Jeep WJ 4" Lift Coil Springs, 190 lb/in, 16.25" FL, 8 Wraps (TeraFlex) *Ford F-250 ProComp ES9000 (929500) about 29.5" ext and 17.5" comp *WJ Perch Adapter, Bolt-on, Krypton Fab *SS Ext Rear Brake Line, Krypton Fab So I started by prepping all bolts/nuts with a nice dosing of WD-40 the night before and hit them again the next morning. I started the day off about noon by loosening the nuts on each shock (upper/lower mounts). Then I went to disconnect the brake line and found it siezed/rusted in place - took a tremendous amount of force while bracing the line to get it loose. Thunderbolt (David) showed up at my house about that time to watch me in frustration and give me some advice and a helping hand on the driver's side install. This is when I found my upper shock mount bolts had rusted to the metal bushings. That took a good 1 hour to release one side and only about 20 minutes on the other (longer than it should have though!!! Good thing David was there - he ended up being my chauffeur to 3 different stores to get random items needed (e.g. an even bigger BFH, new upper shock mount bolts/nuts...) to finish the install. So here we go with pictures after the install... Stupid rusted shock mount bolts/bushings!!! Here is a replacement bolt/nut and I reused the bushing (after a good cleaning). Pinched the mounts a little so there isn't any slippage/movement: Here is the perch adapter installed. I think of it more as a coil "locater". If I had actually measured the bolt and matched it to a larger drill bit, it would have taken all of about 5 minutes to install. Instead I drilled the hole out with a slightly smaller bit and it took a good 25 minutes to fully install. Even with the PHB unbolted I still had to place the adapter inside of the spring, put the spring in place, and THEN thread the washers/bolt/nut in the perch - a balancing act to say the least: Here it is all put together on the driver side: I'm still toying with the idea of reversing the shock orientation and I have planned on booting them up (just to keep junk out as much as possible). Here is a shot of the extended brake line. I actually admit it is a bit of a piece of art (it was actually pretty to look at Andrew, thanks!!!). It also helps that it is quite a bit longer than the stock one that I had stretched to capacity with my 1.5" of spacers on top of the 2" AC lift for the past 6 months!!! I'll try to get more parking lot pics (I've started to despise those) tomorrow at work, but please don't expect too much. I only got about 1.25" more than my spacers stacked on the 2" AC lift. I'm probably about 4.75" of total lift out back. So it has slight rake from back to front once again (I like that look), but compared to Thunderbolt's custom springs, I hardly have any rake at all.

I'd be more concerned that they wouldn't clear the struts with the stock rim backspacing. Some trimming to stop tire rub at full lock would probably be needed up front with a 32" tire.

White with the black = very nice. I had a friend readjust his boot so that it doesn't allow the bellows to rub - it's an experiment but it might give yet another option to lengthening the lives of our boots. I like seeing all these DuraTracs!!! I can't wait to wheel them this summer and see how they handle. If they are any good, they are quite possibly my favorite tire yet!

I think it looks really good. I like the thinner tire look a lot. I discovered my first split CV boot yesterday (after 3 years of running a 2" lift WITHOUT manual hubs) and after I got my similar rims I just pulled my rear wheels and spray painted the hub black. Just some other options/thoughts...

Very nice. Any side shots to see how they fill out the wheel wells? I think you'll really like your GY DuraTracs. I've had mine for 6 months and they have been great through a Colorado winter.

Yeah, and I bet Andrew runs with scissors!!! Anyone think Andrew has had enough of our ? Congratulations on all the great comments you've received Andrew (even if it's just us extra "Dad's" giving our gratuitous safety advice said only in your best interest - me included) and for having your topic quite efficiently !!! Now I'm going to go to my user subscriptions and unsubscribe cause I'm of getting the emails on this...it's driving me a little . Here you go Andrew and not in a way...

Glad you got it fixed on the cheap. Because it looks like you might need a few more comments about not using a jack stand... ...you could always do what we do on the trails and just stack the tire you took off and your spare under the frame near where you are working.

My first thought was CV, but I'm not so sure after watching your video...but I'd check that first as others had said. Dude, good luck!

Yeah, that's kind of why I posted it up. I figured that even though we are all R50's that there might be some slight differences (or even large ones!).

I think I'll go with this for my rig (2001 R50): I swore I had read this exact topic about a year ago, but I also know how doing searches can be before posting. I've done this calc many times over the past 7 years of owning my R50 (filling up at the first sign of the warning light) and I get anywhere from 2-3 gallons. I also know that there can be great fluctuations in when this indicator comes on so I'd base it on your personal experience with your particular truck. Just my

I think there could be a few things, but in my personal case it was a failing strut bearing and upper mount that was in disrepair that "clunked" while turning right at low speeds (especially while lightly braking). I believe there are other reasons but will let less car-tarded folks respond...

Well, I was doing about 45 mph when someone pulled out in front of me. This is the first time since installing the link that I actually "felt" the difference. There was very little roll and my quick left-right action was quite controlled. Pretty cool. Can't wait to wheel it...

Didn't see it mentioned, and I'm not even sure you have it on your particular rig, but I'd watch out/remove the ABS sensor/line also (mine were clipped/retained to each strut when removed last time).

Just to throw out one more option...the stock scissor jack on top of the Hi Lift off-road base. I've only tried it once, but it worked quite well. Stole the idea from a friend who uses the off-road base and his stock bottle jack.

If you went with the 1" strut spacer in the front you could go with a gasket coil spacer in the back: Mr Gasket 1" Coil Spacer (Universal) I can vouch that they lift just under 1" (they compress a little after install). Think I paid like $9/piece for them about 6 months ago...

Just thinking of that first picture you posted, looked awfully familiar and reminded me of the painful install (IMHO): And some commiserating with the positive camber:

Already received mine from JA today in the mail...that seemed really quick. I got a little excited and put it in this afternoon. After a quick drive around the block I didn't notice much difference. Maybe a little stiffer feeling going in to corners and less body roll going up my curb/sidwalk/driveway. I will get it out on the open road tomorrow and will be testing it in Moab (w/Thunderbolt) in May. Will post up findings on both soon...

Looks really nice. I had to add another camber adjustment bolt to one side to get it all aligned...just an FYI. EDIT: Should have added that I think it looks extremely well balanced - nice choice in rear coils...

I didn't expect much at all from our inquiries, I just thought it was fun to think about and see what kind of response we might get. On the other hand I did expect them to put down the crack pipe before replying to a letter of interest about their products. Seriously, for $1500 I could have had a completely custom exhaust system and that was specifically tuned to my vehicle, made by racing experts in a weeks time. Knowing the guy building it, I'm quite sure that it had the possibility of being completely reproducible (lowering the cost for subsequent clients). My point being that if times are so hard and the market just isn't there, maybe they should be looking for a different market share for their products... I actually think that smaller shops are the way to go for something like this, Borla has a name to keep up and I'm sure their R&D is bit more involved than the shop I could have taken my rig to...

Wow, is that how much a "reach around" goes for these days?!?! Yeah, that price is ridiculous. I used to know a guy when I lived in Cali that quoted me $1,500 for a custom dual exhaust...and I thought that was a bit of a rip!

Thanks for the respone... IIRC Iron Rock sticks around 175 lb/in spring rate. I didn't know they sold a 5.5" lift coil. I had seen the 3, 4, and 6.5" lifts - so wow, 5.5 sounds like a good choice. I had a friend with a plasma cutter cut as little coil as possible - basically cutting so that what is left is almost in-line with the wraps. Basially puts the free length at 16". My springs are TeraFlex 4" lift coils and were on close-out (cheap!) but have a high spring rate (190 lb/in). I have 2 different size coil spring isolaters/spacers, so if I don't get enought height, I'll just add them in as needed. Any ways, glad you posted up your results...nice to see.

I'm really glad you posted up - since mine should be here in a week. I know Thunderbolt said it made cornering/turning "more responsive". Sweet.

If your clunk is while turning the wheel, it could be your strut mounts/bearings, which should truly be replaced when you replace your struts. Just a thought.

Complete...but I was thinking the same thing. Maybe it goes in to a database that helps determine the direction of new products.

Very nice. The 5.5" WJ springs...where did you purchase them from? Or really all I would like to know is if you have the spec's on them - free length, spring rate (lb/in). I didn't get my rear brake line yet, but I'm curious to see how different WJ springs affect our lift height. Mine are 4" lift springs, 16.25" free length, and are 190 lb/in spring rate (I load mine down so got a higher spring rate coil). Thanks, can't wait to see the rest of it!!!