Vsicks Pathy

So are you. lol.

Lazy.... There, I said it! And you spelt sh!t wrong. It doesn't have "awee" between the "sh" and the "t", it has an "i".

So you're the culprit. lol. So, is it? Ugly that is.

RP88, you old dog.. Some things never change. I give an opinion, get shot down for it, shoot back and the fun begins.

I am forever pulling my mate (2000 Hi Lux IFS) through sh!t that my Pathy glides through. Yep, Toyota's IFS Hi Lux is a POS. Stopped! Stuck! POS!

It looks like you are just about to become a seesaw. And seesaws, especially "unlocked" ones, stop even on hard traction surfaces! How do I know that? Because I had one too and that's the point I made with regard to articulation. I don't think I said you can't do anything with an R50. I am just saying the earlier and later models have far more potential. By saying "far more", I mean 'all of the'. Once the later models become cheap enough for "us" to cut up and modify, what model will you choose? I doubt anyone would choose an R50. That is just my opinion but I can't wait to see the first live axle, front and rear R51. Lets be honest here yet again shell we? They even look better than the R50 too.

Now that's really what constitutes a sad day for a Pathfinder. Never forget, a driver is only as good as the car he or she is in. I have been on many a trail that doesn't have a "right line". I think we can agree that a nascar can't win a F1 race, can't we? I know that this is an extreme example but I think it makes the point.

I didn't mean you couldn't do anything, what I meant to say was that you can't do enough with an R50. The monocoque construction of the R50 is one hell of a setback for anyone wanting to get serious, they're for road cars and road cars only. To go off road, at least here in Oz, you need at least 33 inch tyres or you'll get hung up on your diff all of the time. Mind you, nowadays, 33's are considered small. Can you get 33's or larger under the R50? Articulation too is a major part to off roading. Articulation helps keep the car stable on the trail and is something IFS can never offer anyone. The thought of the old IFS in my Pathy with it rocking/pivoting back and forth between opposing front and rear wheels still scares me. Can you put a live axle up front of an R50? The R50, IMO, is a soft roader for life. At least with the WD21 and the models that followed the R50 you can still turn the soft roader (And that's what ALL Pathfinder are) into an off roader if you want to.

The Pathfinder was never a true off road car in the first place. From it's conception in the mid 80's, it was a soft roader. The only off roading it was designed for was a supermarket car park. It has never been up to the task of a 4x4 unless serious mods were employed. Anyone that thinks it is, or ever was, a serious 4x4 is kidding themselves. Granted they were over engineered (but for the steering).... That's why they make good project cars. As for the newer Pathfinders... They are the evolution of the WD21's and just got softer, that's all. On a positive note though, at least they have a ladder chassis again. Unlike the R50 that you can't really do anything with, if you want to spend the money on the new Pathy, you can make them an off road monster. Live axles front and rear isn't a pipe dream with these. As for offering an off road package, they do offer one. A Patrol.

The ARB "winch" bar takes a low mount winch. There are two types of heavy duty bar. One is a bull bar, this has no capacity for a winch. The other is a winch bar, that's pretty self explanatory. Though my number plate covers the winch hole on my old bar, the differences between a winch bar and a bull bar are easily seen. Me on the left, sw on the right.

Good to see you are up and running. I agree, it was $70 well spent.

Good to see you tackle this problem in the manner you have. There is nothing better than peace of mind. Safe travels too.

You should not be able to put a brake pedal to the floor in any car, ever! Something seriously is wrong with your braking system. May I ask who bled the brakes? Was it you or a qualified mechanic. I ask this because I have seen people put air into the system before. There are two techniques to bleeding brakes and the pump with a mate technique requires good timing. Get it even slightly wrong and you have air back in the system The bleed into the jar method is easier, in that it is near on impossible to suck air in, but requires a lot more fluid. Does your car have discs all round? If so the drum adjustment will not make any difference in pedal hight or stiffness, and only the hand brake can be adjusted via the drums. Probable causes..... You either have a gaseous build up, still have air in your system or the master cylinder is faulty. A test for the master cylinder is to put pressure on the pedal then relive it slightly, then resume the same pressure. If the pedal falls, it may well be your problem. Bubbles in the system are self explanatory. Gas build up is new fluid through the whole system as well as the bleed of course.. I hope you get it sorted.

Now that it is all over I can finally say... I just didn't get this thread and the advice you were getting. Removal of the drive shaft was a joke. I am glad you have the car back home.

My guess is that it would over heat pretty quickly and I'd hate to change a spark plug.