Spooled

Actually, the stock VG33 is not stroked any more than a VG30. It's all in the bore size. However, 88path is right, the stock VG30 cannot be bored to become a VG33. The cylinder walls are simply not thick enough.

I currently have a B&M Supercooler #70268, which is 8.5 H, 11 W, 3/4 D and good for 16,000 - 19,000 GVW. I know it has been said on this site that an ideal cooler would be no less than 20,000 GVW. I found a great deal on another #70268, and was thinking about picking it up and running them in series. My question is, could this be too much cooling of the trans fluid? I would assume that the trans fluid needs to be able to keep a certain temperature to maintain optimum viscocity. Any thoughts?

I put a Perma Cool 16" fan on my 200SX with VG30E. I absolutely love it! You can barely hear it running, and the upper end Perma Cools run 2950cfm, which is plenty! I'm planning on putting one on my Pathy here shortly.

Don't listen to your autoparts store. Also, the round tooth timing belt is rated for a longer interval for replacement.

FYI - Foam filter elements are the absolute worst out there. They do not filter well comparatively.

Cams won't negatively affect your engine or o2 sensors at all. You may want to play with your timing a little bit, bump it up a couple of degrees. I've had cams in my 200SX with VG30E for awhile now, no ECU tune, and I run regular (87 octane) fuel with timing bumped up to 30degrees BTDC. I coupled the cams with headers and a free flowing intake and some mild head porting as well to get the most benefit. After dyno'ing my car at different ignition timing - 3 runs made at 22degrees, 26 degrees, and 30degrees - the A/F ratio kept getting better the higher I went with the timing, and as a result, so did power. I gained 8 horsepower at the wheels going from 22 to 30degrees timing advance. But really, to answer your question simply, you'll be fine with cams.

Why don't you take it to an exhaust shop instead and have them modify the pipes so they sit more like stock?

Thought I would share what I found on another forum. Almost a complete workshop database for many makes and models of vehicles http://search.epnet.com/login.aspx?authtyp...site=autorefctr username=fl2823 password=horn

Nah - that's only the turbo model that has the crossover pipe over the transmission.

If you're talking about the 80's Z31 300ZX, no, they will not fit. The rear most primaries on both sides will hit the firewall. You would have to modify them. There are already at least two options for the Pathfinder though - PaceSetters or Thorley's.

That tech listed is for the VG30DE. It's for the dual overhead cam motor like those found in the Z32 300ZX. The SOCH VG30E and VG33E never had variable valve timing.

I have to say that the more aggressive look of the WD21 is my choice. No offense to anyone here, but, to me, the 2nd gen Pathfinder just looks, well, a little boring. It doesn't have any character and blends in with everything else on the road. It does have it's positives too, however. I wouldn't mind have a 3.5 in my WD21! I do like the looks of the new 05's though. Back to the aggressive styling.

Well, I'm a Nissan nut through and through. I prefer the WD21 bodystyle. I think it looks very muscular with the flared fenders. I did not want a large SUV, so the Pathfinder was perfect. I wanted a green one for the longest time, but in the NorthWest, you can't find ones in good shape for under $7K. I happened to be in a wrecking yard looking for parts for my other Nissans, and there was a green '93 SE Pathfinder just sitting there, in perfect shape. I inquired about it and the only thing wrong was the autotranny didn't work. I picked it up for $3K with a good tranny. The leather seats were in perfect condition, no rips, tears or wear marks at all. Couldn't believe the deal. I've been a lowered sports car guy my whole life, so this birds eye view of the road is very different for me. I like it.

I also have a 93 SE - I just kept searching Ebay. It took a few weeks, but one finally came up. Got it about a month ago. Just keep looking. They're out there.

I called Summit just a couple weeks ago and asked them to drop ship directly from Thorley. 4 days later, they were at my door.

Also check the relay for your starter, if you're not hearing a click, that could be your problem. You sure the chimes aren't for the seatbelt? Sounds like a seatbelt chime to me.

The head bolts are torqued down very tight. It's not so much that they wear out, it's that they stretch. I've always replaced the head bolts on my VG30's when I take the heads off. It's just cheap insurance. I don't particularly like pulling the motor, so I do everything I can to make sure the job is done as best it can. I just recently rebuilt the VG30E in my 200SX, but I can't remember how much the bolts were. I get a pretty hefty discount through my local Nissan dealer though as they sponsor our Z club.

Have you tried running the ECU diagnostic yourself? It will pretty much tell you exactly what sensors needs replacing. The "how to" is a sticky in the Garage section. Here's a link to it - ECU Self Diagnostic Procedure. In my opinion, the ECU self diagnostic is far superior to any mechanic, and a helluva lot cheaper.

Great! I just wanted to make sure it didn't throw any codes are cause unneeded drivability problems. I've already removed it, blocked off the vacuum lines, and pulled out the mounting studs. I'm going to make a blockoff plate like I did my other vehicles, and find a threaded plug for the EGR hole in the manifolds. I just bought some Thorleys, so I figure I'll blockoff the EGR hole while they're in my living room.

I like to cleanup all the items in the engine bay that I consider unnecessary. Such as the carbon canister (gone), the airbox (tossed), and the EGR valve. Now, I've deleted the EGR valve on my '87 200SX VG30E with no difficulty, and my '90 300ZX TT VG30DETT. The FSM says that this one has an EGR temperature sensor, which my 200SX does not. I couldn't find the sensor, but does anyone know if removing the EGR would give me any adverse affects?

BAHAHAHAHA Well, props to Summit. They listed on their website that the Thorleys wouldn't ship out until June 11. I called Summit and asked if they could drop ship directly from Thorley. That was last Saturday. The guy at Summit said he would call Thorley on Monday to see if they had any in stock. I figured he would forget to call, but low and behold, I had a package from Summit at my door YESTERDAY!!! SWEET! Anyway, it will probably be a few weeks before I get the Pathy back together, but I'll be sure to post my findings on the Thorleys with the AT transmission. Us poor AT guys need some aftermarket love too. lol

Well, the tranny and y pipe were already out due to my need to replace my autotranny. I decided to just pull the motor, since I was already 3/4 of the way there after doing my timing belt. That will give me a chance to replace the exhaust manifold studs so I don't have to worry about those. I went ahead and ordered some Thorley headers while I was at it. Sure hope those comments that they fit the automatics okay are right! lol Thanks for the replies!

Well, after removing the auto tranny to replace it, I found a pretty good leak that I thought was coming from the rear main. I replaced the rear main, but there is still some oil seepage from around the rear oil pan seal. Guess the pan is going to have to come off so I can reseal it. Anyone else ever had to remove the pan? I'm wondering if I can get away with just lifting the motor a few inches. The FSM says to remove the suspension crossmember, as well as the front diff. Ugh. Not looking forward to this at all.

Yep. I found a bees nest inside my gas filler door in my 300ZX. Hadn't driven it in awhile. I waited till night and then sprayed them with brake cleaner. Kills them instantly.

So, I'm replacing the auto tranny in my Pathy. The new to me tranny came with a torque converter, but not a drive plate. Do I really need to balance my original drive plate to the new torque converter? I'm not even sure how to do it, as I can't get all the fluid out of the torque converter, so how will it balance? Also, doesn't the fluid itself act as a damper? Other people I've talked to have told me they've never had to balance the two together, but they don't have Nissans. Any opinions out there as to why it's necessary?