Spooled

Earth1, what kind of gas were you using to try and burn out the bushings from the UCA's? If you were using Propane, then yes, it was probably easier to drill them out. However, if you use MAPP gas, they come out with very little effort. I did the 4 rear control arm bushings in my 200SX in 10 minutes. Just a thought.

Thanks Precise1 - I got this message and was able to work on it last night. I appreciate your reply.

LOL Okay, then you obviously know your tranny pretty well. Even though the extra wear and tear would be minimal, it's still going to be better on all your parts to use your brakes instead, but I won't preach, because then I would be a hypocrite. sssh

Well, I think it has a lot more to do with how you're doing it. Are you rev matching when you downshift? If not, that's added wear on your clutch, as well as extra stress on your input bearings and such. It's a heckuvalot easier to replace brake pads than it is to replace a clutch or bearings.

Okay, before I get told to search, or get a manual - I have searched, and my Chilton's manual will be here tomorrow. However, I was hoping to get some work done on this tonight. I've got the tranny out (remind me never to do this again), and now I'm looking at the torque converter. How do I get this thing off? I see there are 4 bolts holding it to the flex plate, but they come in from the back side. I'm sure someone here has done this before. I can't even see the bolt heads, let alone attempt to get a tool on them. What am I missing? I've done a dozen manual trannies in my cars, but this is my first automatic. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Yeah, mine's a '93 also. I tried WD40 on the hinges, and then swung it to and fro to try and work it in. Didn't seem to make much difference. It doesn't bother me too much either, just curious if it was supposed to be that tight.

Speaking of spare tire carriers - sorry to get a little off topic here - how hard should it be to move the carrier to open the lift gate? Mine takes some effort to move. Actually gotta plant my feet pretty good.

Hey RealDeal, did you not do the cam seals as well? From the looks of the oil mess around your crank sprocket, it looks like you may have a slight leak? Anyway, if you're in there doing the timing belt, etc., make sure the cam seals are part of the job as well. Even if they're not leaking, it's cheap insurance.

Just did my timing belt yesterday. The crank bolt is 27mm. The timing belt/cam seals/water pump/etc. job was pretty easy on the Pathfinder.