bsb1957

Update.....Pulled fan along with shroud and removed timinng covers and removed belt. Cleaned everything up. Drained rad. Replaced timing belt as per info. given. Did compression test and found all cylinders good except for #4 which was a flat 0. My next question is that a co-worker has a 96 Nissan Quest with a VG30E.Im assuming that engine has to be identical to mine? Im thinking of a swap. He says his engine is a non interference. Any thoughts are always appreciated along with all the replies ive gotten so far with this problem. To everyone,thanks for all your help.

Well, ive decded to to give this repair a shot. I dont see any thread here on a procedure so if anyone can direct me to one or give me basic idea of where to start and maybe some steps for the procedure it woul be appreciated. For whatever reason dont want to let this truck go . Im figuring that while im doing the repair that i can also do the transcooler bypass with a bigger external. any suggestions as to brands of parts,sources,etc would help. Ive never dealt with Rock auto but i see a lot of there name being mentioned here. Anyway the suns up and im out the door to start. Ill keep posting and if anyone has any comments,suggestions feel free to chime in. Im figuring first off that ill pull the rad and clean things up.

Yes, a nice oily, coolant soaked mess. Im guessing bent valves are a for sure thing.Can only blame my neglect. What do do next is the question. The body is showing its age,frame a bit too, still had a few years left in her i beleive but i cant see pouring serious money into it. Im not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination nor do i have a decent garage and to get someone to rebuild or replace the engine may not be worth it.I guess ill sleep on it.

When it initially died my first reaction was...it stalled....try to restart. When it turned over my first thought was that it was turning over a little quicker than normal. Like it had less compression.Funny thing is the day before my daughter and i drove into the USA for some cross border shopping and we were running around those Minneapolis freeways and just flogging the truck. When it died i was actually in a slow line of traffic on a single lane bridge near town crossing at basically idle speed. Anyway im going back out to try to investigate some more. Thanks for the responses guys, I like the sense that im not alone on this one.

I was thinking that also. Holy Sh#t So its safe to there is no doubt that major damage was done. My own fault as i have been thinking about gettng that belt done for a long time now (if infact it was a belt malfunction). There has to be significant damage as ive turned the engine over a couple of times so some valves and pistons have had to have interfered with each other. Thanks for your time.....ill keep you posted. There may be a parts giveaway coming up.

Got the upper cover totally off and the T-belt seems ok, tension is fine, no visible damage. I cranked it over, belt dosent budge. I dont know....cam bearing? Are they prone to seizing? Any ideas? Thanks

Im doing that now and from what i see so far the belt dosnt look like it totally snapped. I can see and feel that it still has tension at the centre point between the cams.Ive just taken out the top bolts and pryed the cover back a bit to get a peek. Thanks for the quick reply Tungsten.

I have a 91 that quit on me today while on the middle of a one lane bridge. Initially i was thinking fuel issue (pump,filter) but once i got it home and started thinking more i thought timing belt. Pulled off distibutor cap and cranked and rotor did not move. Anyone care to comment or confirm? Thanks

Found mine a couple weeks ago(10 dollars). Initially thought they were 27 but i was counting the teeth between the outer hub and that inner piece. It didnt hit me until i saw this post and realized that i wasnt counting the proper splines. Went back to the pick n pull to grab another set that i saw but i think they crushed it already.

Can anyone tell me what size allen wrench or hex key you need to remove manual hubs? Im taking them off a 92 hardbody. And also what other tools do i need to remove these? Thanks for your time.

I have a couple jugs of Mobil Super multi-vehicle ATF synthetic blend in the garage. It states on the jugs that its a suitable replacement for Nissan matic D,J or K. Is the Nissan matic fluid a Dexron? Can i run this Mobil in my 91? Thanks for your time.

Im looking to buy a floor jack and was wondering if anyone had any comments as to the pros and cons of different brands.I was also curious as to what weight capacaties you guys think is best along with lift heights.

Decided to tackle it today. It turned out to be either air in the system or maybe deteriorated brake fluid(had a bit of a brownsh colour to it).When i bled the passenger rear i did seem to get a lot of bubbles with the discharge. Anyways i basically pushed out all of the old fluid and the pedal is 500% better.Thanks for all of the responses,always much appreciated. Brian

Thanks for the help guys.I was looking at the front pads this afternoon and they looked to me like they still had life (5/8" of material)and rotors looked good (no lines or grooves).Would a single buggered caliper give this kind of symtom.How about air in the system? If it were summer here i wouldnt be asking questions and would just be pulling things and trying to diagnose myself but its like minus 25c up here and i dont have a garage.Im just trying to this job as efficiently and quickly as possible.I put more faith in you guys and this forum for advice than anyone or any shop around here.Thanks again

Hey Guys and Ladies Ive got a 90 pathfinder with 4 wheel disk brakes.I have fairly suddenly aquired a longer than normal brake pedal stroke (almost to the floor). No visible leaks,fluid is topped. With engine off i can pump the pedal 6 or 7 times to bring it back up to firm but the minute i start it the pedal drops off. The part that confuses me is that the problem started almost overnight. Any comments and suggestions are always appreciated. Thanks

Liquor Control Board of Ontario here.Working in logistics

Hi Eveyone,Just wondering what you folks prefer to run for fluid in your automatics?

Hey Bushbuggy...welcome aboard.Im in T Bay also.Lots of good people with help and info here.I run a black 91,maybe ill see you around .

Well i think i took care of that fuel leak.I got under there and took off a couple of the brackets that hold the lines in place,cleaned the crud from between the lines and between the lines and the frame.After wire brushing eveything down(all this work is between the rear wheel to between the front and back doors)it all looked nice and clean.I crossed my fingers and pressurized the system and expected to see leaks all over the place but suprisingly i just still had the one leak.Instead of cutting and splicing the line i just took a 4 inch piece of rubber fuel line and slit it lengthwise enabling me to wrap it around the trouble spot.Using some silicone type sealant i sealed the seam and turned the hose so the the seam was between the line and the frame,then used three band clamps to secure the hose(one right over the pinhole and the other two on each end).Initially i thought those lines would be weak and brittle but they were stll pretty solid as i had to get a screwdriver in there to move the lines in order to get the hose on and the clamps around it.To finish off i sprayed a rust inhibitor primer over the entire area then sprayed a black coat of rust paint.Took the truck for a couple rides and it seems fine for now.

I had a problem with my 92 a while back similar to yours.It ended up being a faulty starter but what was smoking was the fusible link off the positive battery post.