clkindred

Thank you! Yep, straight shot. I kept the factory MAF housing and used an adapter that bolted to the housing one one side and had a 4 inch flange for clamping the filter to on the other. The way your MAF sensor mounts to your piece of black pipe? Dose it pose an air leak? Did you seal it with some silicone? Or dose it just fit tight enough?

Oh thank you, but seems like a silly thing to mail any distance. It's been on my buy list, but it has a low priority.

Hey! Good to see another factory air box ditched. Not that they are so bad but, you know it makes me smile.

*picks jaw up off the floor Wow, I love the setup. Love the gear.

Year: 1998 Model: SE NO LIFT Wheels: Pro Comp 15x7 BS: 3.75 Tires: Goodyear Wrangler Authority in 31 1050 15 Minor rubbing on fender plastic on front. The part behind the bumper. Some minor relocating of the plastic mounting to move it out of the way, now no rubbing ever.

A good old cross type lug nut wrench fits under the rear seat along with the factory jack, tools and whatnot. Another flashlight mounted in an easy to reach place while driving. 12 volt, 200 lumen, eye scorching tactical style. That sums up my everyday carry. I'll toss in other things when going into the mountains. I might cover those later.

There's my jumper cables! Cargo floor compartment has reflective triangles, 2 half hour road flares, duct tape and orange-ish safety... uh, tape? It's not sticky, the stuff you are SUPPOSED to mark things you are hauling that stick out the back. Pipe, lumber ect. The yellow stick is a fiberglass rod about 3 feet long. It's handy for poking, probing, and whipping through the air real fast to make that sound. A flashlight mounted near the driver side rear wheel well.

Air compressor, this one clips to the car battery, I hate those ones that plug into the cig lighter, my friend had one of those, fried it trying to fill up an SUV tire, (never did the job) after that it could barely fill a bike tire. What's in the white bucket? Recovery straps, 3 D-ring shackles, some nylon rope, rags and various tie-downs I did not want to untangle for the photo. BEEFY shackles I might add. The tool kit I got for Christmas.

Ok what next, how about my old shaving bag from my days in the Marines? In there I have various tools, zip-ties and whatnot. I modded a couple plastic storage box thingys to keep these things neat and organized. First one is tire repair stuff, plugs, plug tools, pressure gauge, valve caps. I still need some valve cores and core tool. Spare fuses and fuse puller tool.

Next up, a 30. cal. ammo can with about 8 or 9 15min road flares. I like to keep em' in the ammo can to keep them "fresh" Now for my homemade C02 tire filler upper. Cost me eh, 40 bucks or so minus the tank which I already had. Just getting started...

Oooo this is my kinda thread. I went out and looked in my pathy and this is the stuff that is in there at all times. First off, a view of my back storage, not to bad. Top of pile, first aid kit. I am not impressed by most store bought FAK's because they are little more than a bunch of band-aids. This one I put together myself and I keep it in a Pelican case. I'll elaborate on what exactly is in there if anyone wants. Let's see what else I have...

I would assume these sensors are just simple momentary switches, but dose anyone know if they are closed or open circuit when tripping the light? If the light comes on when the circuit is closed through the switch (continuity, and what I'm betting my lunch money on) then you could cut one of the wires for the switch to prevent current flowing through and triggering the light no matter what position the switch is in. Or, if the light comes on when continuity is lost through the switch, you could wire around the switch and bypass it to obtain the same result. I know this sounds kind of a bad idea taking the switch out of the system, it's there for a reason, but it seems like with your stereo an all, there might not be a solid solution less removing your weather stripping.

Hello all, this is my first time posting. I have used this forum for much needed info over the years, but this is the first time I feel I have something to contribute. The rear glass "door" sensor is indeed built into, or functions in concert with the latching mech. On my 98 R50, I had to transport something that needed to stick out the window. In order to keep the door ajar light off, I snapped the latch closed while the rear glass was open. To release the latch, I placed into the clasp (where the loop on the glass would normally be held when glass closed) a screwdriver (tool, not drink lol) applied slight upward tension while turning key to open glass. It popped back open. So long story short, if the sensor is suspect, then you might have to dig that latch out. Oh, and also I want to point out that in my case, I could get the light to turn off even with nothing in the latch by closing it, so it might not have anything to do with how far the window loop pushes in, but perhaps the position of the latch itself.