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For a 15x8 wheel, you don't want backspacing to be between 3.75 and 4. Less backspacing will push the wheel too far out of the wheelwell, and you will have big-time rubbing problems on the rear of the front fenders, and potential clearance issues with the rear fenders when the axle is articulated. It will also put more stress on the wheel bearings, suspension and steering components. More backspacing will pull the tire in toward the truck and cause issues with tire-to-strut clearance and rubbing on the inner wheelwell. 3.25" of backspacing on the AR 15x8 wheel you mentioned is probably too excessive. I would try a wheel with 3.75 or 4". I have 15x8's with 3.75BS, and 32" Goodyear MTR's clear the strut, but rub on rear of the front fender. In fact, I had to remove the front mudflaps completely because of insuffficient clearance. The tires still rub that area under certain conditions, such as braking while the steering wheel is turned.

Yeah, bad place. The cargo area cannot be compromised at all. I still USE my Pathy. I doubt that Blaupunkt amp will fit under the center console. It's too wide. I think I'll go measure the space behind the left side cargo panel and see if there's any possibility to fit something in there. If not, then I'll have to make do with the DDX internal amp or retain the Bose amp/speakers, or consider an under-the-passenger-seat install... I'm still undecided on whether to even touch this. The last time I fussed with fancy car audio systems was about 12 years ago, when my car's audio system attracted the attention of thieves who stole my car, ripped out the stereo, trashed the dashboard, then abandoned it a block away. Cost me $1000 to fix the dash, busted door keyhole and ignition. I vowed to never make a vehicle worth breaking into. Fortunately, for some reason, thieves just don't seem to be too interested in jacking my truck, which has thousands more worth of upgrades. I guess there's not a big market for stolen winches, off-road lights, or CB radios. I'm afraid that if I get a nice audio system, it will suddenly become a target.

Yeah, I was thinking that a 2-channel amp would be 1/2 the size of a 4-channel amp. The length and width are too big. I was looking more for something that was about 8x10x4 not 11x10x2. Most amps seem to be flat, but have a very big footprint, as opposed to being a little taller, but with a smaller footprint. I guess they design 'em to be stashed under the seat, huh?

The cargo tray is where I store my recovery gear (tow straps, chain, winch remote), so that's not an option. I'll check out the space below the passenger seat. Do I want one 4-channel amp or two 2-channel amps?

Is the internal amp on the Kenwood DDX HU crap? As far as adding an external amp, cost isn't the issue for me, it's space. If I can squeeze an amp into the cavity where the factory Bose amp is located, then I'll consider it. Dan, do bear in mind that I'm not nearly the audiophile that you are. I'm still running my iPod through a cassette adapter, and it sounds reasonably good to me! One more thing- will I be able to retain use of the factory A-pillar tweeters? I don't want to replace those. I'm pretty much looking for the most plug-n-play approach possible.

Dug up an old topic that happens to address the exact same question I have! Gotta love the search function! I'm thinking about ditching my Bose system, but I don't really want to have to rewire everything from scratch. Should I just replace the HU but keep the speakers? What's the best approach to take? Here's what I'm considering doing: New headunit: Kenwood DDX-7017, 22wattsRMS/50peak Nissan Bose Amplifier adapter, if it's better to keep the Bose amp and speakers. Wiring harness and diversity antenna adapter Note that I didn't include speakers. If I ditch the Bose speakers and their included amps, what speakers are reasonably good for $50 or less each ($100/pair)? I checked the specs on the factory Bose audio in the 97 Pathfinder sales brochure (which I still have a copy of), and it only gave me one power rating: 160watts; I assume that is peak output. I suppose then, that the Bose amp is less powerful than the built-in amp of the Kenwood HU. I don't want to install a subwoofer or an amp, since there's really no place to put it without sacrificing cargo space that's already being used for something else. Does anyone have some good advice on what's the best way to go? I'm not a super audiophile, but the audio system in the Pathy sounds pretty poor compared to my daily-driver Mazda6's factory Bose audio system.

So how's the engine running now? I'm thinking about getting the JWT S1 cams in my truck, but I don't want it to have the same problems yours had. Is everything A-OK? I know you said that power is up, but what about fuel economy? Will a SAFC tune be required? Where did you get the new lifters from? Thanks!

The problem for me is that I have to replace a speaker anyway. The front passenger side buzzes. It sounds like crap. Anyone have an old Bose front speaker they'd like to unload?

Searched crutchfield for it and found this

I've been following this thread and now my curiousity is piqued. So here's a question for ya Venge- I recently purchased a Mazda6 which has a factory Bose audio system and a rear-deck-mounted 8" subwoofer. Generally, it sounds pretty good to me. I don't know much about the HU/amp/speaker specs in the Mazda, but I do know that when I get back in the Pathy, the Bose system in the Pathy sounds like crap (compared to the Mazda)! And to top it off, my passenger front speaker buzzes. (I think it got wet.) I don't drive the Pathy often enough to justify spending thousands on an audio system. In fact, there are many times I don't even turn the radio on! (Maybe that's beause it sounds like crap.. ) Honestly, I'd rather spend thousands making my truck more off-road worthy. Besides, I spent thousands on an audio system in a previous car, and it was stolen, but later recovered with all of the audio stuff ripped out. I vowed never to make a vehicle audio system something worth stealing again... As far as sound quality goes, I'm content to listen to my XM radio or iPod through the cassette-adapter, but the speaker buzzing is annoying, and the lack of volume and dynamic range sorta sucks. And yes, I'm sure the poorer dynamic range is a function of the cassette adapter... I don't quite understand what you mean by "each speaker has its own amp". Does that mean that there are audio and +12v power feeds to each speaker? I thought the Bose amp was located behind the left-side cargo panel. Can I keep the factory deck but just replace the speakers? Can I use the factory speaker wires and power wires? Do I even HAVE to get an amp, or can I just power the speakers with the HU? Are there any decent amps that will fit behind the left-side plastic cargo panel? (The tray beneath the cargo area is where I keep my recovery gear, so that's not an option.) Oh yeah, and no subwoofer for me. I can't sacrifice the cargo space. If I do have to replace the deck, I'd rather put in a 2DIN that has aux-in (for my XM Roady2 radio), and possibly iPod controls. What do you recommend for me? Let's figure that I don't want to spend any more than $50 per speaker, $200 for an amp, $500 for a 2DIN deck, and I'd rather not fuss with replacing the factory tweeters if I can help it. I would even consider buying a used amp or deck off e-bay.

Looks like he upgraded from XE to SE wheels and slapped some new shoes on it.

I'll take 'em. My chrome caps on my black rockcrawler wheels are banged up.

This link may interest you if you're looking for a SAFC.

Using Seafoam in the intake via the brake booster or other vacuum line (I use the EVAP purge vacuum line; it's easier to remove than the brake booster) cleans out carbon and blow-by deposits in the intake tract as well as the cylinders. It makes a lot of white smoke during the process, which while fascinating (to you), may not go over too well with your neighbors.

I doubt you were able to use enough force to seat the bearings using only needlenose pliers. To seat the bearings, I've always used the "hammer and punch" method (and it's worked fine): Tighten the bearings down fully, then back off the nut, then reseat lightly.

My advice: Unless you're a glutton for punishment, don't do it yourself. Pep Boys will replace your struts for ~$40 each. It'll be a few dollars more if you have them do the springs simultaneously. It will take you at least 2-3 hours per strut, even with air tools. It's a pain in the butt. I've exercised poor judgement twice to replace the springs/struts myself, and I'll never do it again. My time is worth more. Once thing to note- whenever you disassemble the strut, it's a good idea to replace the strut bearings, too. See full pics of the strut replacement procedure at this link.

Use 80-90W GL5 gear oil. If you have an LSD, use the same type which includes an LSD additive. But that may not help with the whining noise, which isn't a serious problem.

When you switch OD on and off at 22mph, does the RPM change? This could be the same thing as what I just posted about differential whine. With OD on at 22mph, the tranny might shift into a gear that happens to put nearly no load on the gears.

That's probably differential whine, which isn't a big problem, it's just sort of an annoyance caused when the gears have worn in. It is often loudest when there is no load on the gears. This only happens if the engine is decelerating at exactly the same rate as the vehicle. In other words, no acceleration and no engine braking. Shift to neutral isn't the same as no engine braking, because then the driveshaft puts a very slight decelerating load on the pinion gear, which is usually enough to hide the whining.

I'm following up on this with a local fabricator. The bumper will be designed similar to the one that CBI made for SnoSnake, but with a spare-tire carrier and covered sides. The pricing should be similar, but I haven't got a firm quote yet. Including spare-tire carrier and powdercoating, the price is likely going to be approx $900. Now, you guys know I like to make sure my rig not only works well, but is also pleasing to the eye. I assure you this bumper will be designed to take a beating. And it will look good, too, or I won't put it on my rig! There would be an approx. $150 discount if they can build at least 4 bumpers at once. I am personally committed to paying up to $1000 for a custom rear bumper, but it would be nice to pay less! Finally, if you are definitely interested, please post here indicating if you want a hi-lift mount option or jerry-can brackets. (Note that the fabricator expressed concern about the weight carrying capacity of the swing-out tire carrier. He suggested that there could be TWO swing-out carriers, the right being for the tire and the left reserved for hi-lift or jerry cans, such as pictured in the photo below.) I will likely begin working with the fabricator in mid August. If you have any other ideas or concepts that I can discuss with the fabricator, please post!

I was ready and willing. I think the ball was in your court....

No, you don't need an alignment. Not sure what you mean about having to jack up the spindle. If it all goes back together correctly and looks the way it did before you took it apart, you did it right.

Geez! $65? Wow! Labor rates in the SF Bay Area are $90-$110/hr!

A VQ35 swap will require a new computer, new sensor wiring, and new tranny. If you can pick up entire drivetrain from a wrecked 01+, go for it, but it's not going to be nearly as easy as swapping in another VG33. If your valves are bad, but the rings and cylinders are still good you might only need a top-end rebuild. That would be a considerably less expensive route.

If my Pathy were still a daily driver, I'd have another set of BFG AT's on it. My first set (31x10.50R15) lasted about 40,000 miles before I replaced them. They performed very well in during my first goneMOAB in 2003. The second set of BFG AT's (32x11.50R15) were only on the truck for about 8,000 miles before I retired the Pathy as my daily driver and swapped them out for Wrangler MTR's. With the amount of city/paved driving you'll be doing, I'd go with the BFG's. They'll last a long time, won't have an unbearable amount of road noise, and have a good balance of longevity, highway manners, and off-roadability. Granted, they're not mud boggers, so don't expect to go sloshing through 20 yards of foot-deep gumbo and not get stuck. Don't venture to tread where you know you haven't got a chance.