mws

I'm waiting for my honarary stock in them... I spent literally thousands with them when building my tow van. With no regrets. If you spend enough time hunting and shopping, you could find the same stuff a bit cheaper, but you would have to give up a LOT of time, convenience, and service. And you'd end up buying from about 30 different sources to get the same selection. And you'd be waiting much longer. 98% of what I've ordered I received the next day. And on E-Bay, you can fine EVERYTHING cheaper. But of course, once you factor in handling and shipping, it will actually end up costing you a whole lot more.... And that's before you get screwed over by some unethical jerk. Personally, I prefer to take the lower overall cost and higher service route. BTW, their website only lists about 10% of what they carry! If you have a manufacturers part number for a product they don't list, enter it and be surprised.

What's the problem? Seemed pretty easy to me, albeit I was a bit disappointed when I won. Didn't know she had a tattoo there... Kinda skanky looking, I thought...

And of course, check out the garage forum for the sticky that details the parts to put the OEM damper on. Less $, less bling. Works very well. Rancho is Monroe. I'd be very surprised if there is any difference other than the paint color.

Slick - does your pathy have TBI or MPFI? My TBI baaaarely passes tailpipe emissions now, so I am hesitant to try cams. But if you have the later port fuel injection, I would bet serious money that you can use quite a bit hotter cams and still pass smog tests with no problem (unless you were a complete idiot and told the smog station you swapped cams...). Remember, the 300ZX used the same basic engine with hotter cams and they still pass just fine. And if you swapped the entire 300ZX system in (engine, computer, and all sensors), you could take it to referee station and even get it legally blessed and smogged as a 300ZX. That's my plan for my pathy when (if?) the stock engine ever wears out. Basically, if the proper amount of fuel is being injected, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the engine, the cam timing is not too wild (a lot of overlap will cause HC emissions to skyrocket), and the cat is functioning, you will have no problem passing the tailpipe sniffer test. Just keep it looking stock and walk on through. My van is going from a pathetically anemic POS 305 to a rip snortin' 383 with much more than double the torque and HP. I haven't had it tested yet, but I am quite confident it will pass. The O2 sensor output shows the engine is burning extremely clean, even at idle. I'm now in the process now of getting the induction system to look stock.

Hmmm... I'm one of those rare types that don't mind vans - I find them perfect for hauling my dirtbikes and trailer. But this one? I just don't know what to say! What was the question? I'm not sure I would I would accept it if it was given to me.

You won't have as many worries as you would with a unibody. There may be a bit more flex than stock, but I can't imagine it being enough to be a problem. The P/U's use the same basic chassis, and the seperate cab and bed provide no reinforcement. So a topless (early) pathy should be no worse than a stock P/U. Definitely use a minimum of a 4 point to protect yourself. And going with more points will only make it stronger than stock!

yup, as they said, going too big starts leading to problems as well. One of the worst is rust problems. The relatively low volume of exhaust gasses our trucks put out just won't fully heat up and dry out a huge volume 3" exhaust system. Cold pipes mean rust breeding grounds! However, you could still use that muffler if you really want it - but use a maximum of 2.5" pipe (2.25" is probably ideal) before the muffler and if going with dual tail pipes, use 1.5 or 1.75" on the outlet side. And lots of adapters.

Thank you!

Since you have the 86 model with a full frame, you won't have too many worries about the truck flexing when you cut the top off. Have fun!

Not that model, but have used several sets of Coopers. Never any problems with them, and they are a great value. The Discoverer H/T is a very quiet street tire. Put a set of Cobra's on my old 240SX. Good grip, much less expensive than other options. Didn't last long, but nothing did... Must have been my wife's driving.

Yet again, proof that people can and DO get pregnant from anul sex! (These are the kinds of things I tell myself to get over the anger when they happen to me )

That behavior is what causes hemorrhoids. So take solace in the fact they will be facing a lifetime of embarrassing pain!

I've done a lot of business with Rock Auto. No major problems to report. Some minor glitches - but their service has been fine. A solid B, and generally an excellent value. Random comments: Best selection I've found. Usually very low prices, but every now and then, a bit high. I usually double check. Most parts I've ordered have been OEM, but they stock very few OE parts. They almost always list the source so I can figure out what I'll be getting. Most of the OEM parts have been perfectly fine. Watch the shipping costs. They charge only what it costs (not like the crooks who've been running amok on E-Bay), but they only have a few of the parts in their personal inventory and have parts dropshipped from other warehouses all over the place. Having parts like brake rotors shipped clear across the country via UPS can end up costing more than buying local. One order can result in 4 (or more) separate shipments. Some arrive in 2 days, some in a week. I will continue using them as one of my first places to check. I also use their database regularly to check cross compatibility of parts from other years and models of vehicles before hitting wrecking yards. Just look up the part I'm looking for on various other years and models to find mulitiple options for junkyard searches. Many engine parts were used on dozens of years and models. Same with some suspension parts, etc.

Uhh.... yeah.... What was the question?

Thanks! Guess I'll get to fab up my own adapter! sly I want to tee it so I keep the idiot light as well.

OK, I'll start the public brainstorming... Right off the top, the no problems for 10 minutes, then escalating, then dead for a while makes me think thermally related. Something is OK when it is cool, but as it heats up, it starts malfunctioning and when hot, shuts down completely. Once it cools off, it works again. My experience is that electronic components are most likely to exhibit this stuff. And since the tachometer is affected, I immediately leap to thinking it is a electronic component in the ignition system. My first suspect: The ignition coil. To test this theory: Let her run 'til she shuts down, then position a fan so it blows on the coil for 15 minutes to accelerate cool down and try to start again. If it starts up much quicker, you're on to it. After coil, I think of ECU... Or some sensor, but can't imagine which would affect the tach...

I noticed I have a nice Autometer electric oil pressure gauge sitting on the shelf. Hmmm.... Why not throw it in the Pathy? Lots of benefits to having a gauge over an idiot light! Where is the sensor located? Do you know if it uses standard NPT threads?

If anything that affects rear axle positioning is bent or moves (frame, suspension arms, shifting bolts, etc). Ever been following a vehicle and notice how some go down the road noticeably crooked? Where the rear wheels seem to be tracking an inch or two (or 5!) offset from the front wheels? The rear wheels are locked parallel to each other, but if the axle is not absolutely perpindicular to the chassis, the rear will track slightly offset. All vehicles do this to SOME extent due to manufacturing tolerances and hitting stuff. Sometimes noticeable, usually not. Well, I guess it is possible for a vehicle to come off the assembly line where the rear axle comes out absolutely perfectly aligned... but not likely! So it is worth it to get the fronts aligned to the rears every now and then - especially if you are getting funny tire wear.

Some places do 3 levels of alignment: 1: adjusting fronts only, aligned with respect to chassis 2: adjusting fronts only, but aligned with respect to rear axle 3: adjusting all 4. And version 2 is commonly called a 4 wheel alignment.

My guess is that is a typo... It is probably a snorkel for the '90 and later TPI engines only.

DUMMMMY is on the verboten list?

Uhhhh... that means it was assembled by the resident drug head, AKA, the Lazy Stupid silly. You don't want it. Tell you what... you seem like a nice guy.... I'll trade you for my normal differential!

Oh, and that's assuming it is using a std DC motor with limit switches. Stepper motors are another story...

I THINK it will work, but at the aforementioned drastically reduced power. But I don't know for sure - depending on the components involved, 12V may not be enough to get the motor to overcome friction and inertia. Once it started, it would probably be fine. And remember, when the engine is running, you should have around 14 volts available. So it's possible it will work with engine on, but not off. My senior research project involved using electric motors designed for 7.2 volts, which we powered with variable power supplies. They would start running somewhere between 3 and 4 volts, depending on the motor and the load. But once running, we could turn them down to about 2.5 and they would keep running (slowly). They would SCREAM at 15 volts. For a little while. The risk of doing any damage is minimal, unless it doesn't start right up. If it doesn't start moving within a few seconds, disconnect the power.

$2.31....$2.36....$2.41.....$2.45 (that's for regular! Premium was $2.65) I'll update in an hour....