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mws
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Posts posted by mws
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Squeaks are so much fun. Almost as much fun as intermittent electrical problems!
You're definitely on the right path by monitoring exactly when it does it.
When it is squeaking: Is it a
continuous "squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek", or
a periodic "squeak squeak squeak", that varies with wheel or engine speed, or
an intermittent squeak, nothing, squeak, nothing, nothing, nothing, squeak that seems to vary with bumps in the road?
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But seriously, I am DELIGHTED to hear about another enthusiast expanding their skills, self-sufficiency, and personal satisfaction.
Good on you for being willing and brave enough to try!
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Since I'm first to respond, I guess you can write it to me...
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Thanks for all your input. I'm ordering the POR-15 starter kit and chassis coatblack. It just brushes on so it is perfect for my application. Thank you guys, your great. I'll let you know how it goes!!
YES!
You will be soooooo pleased. Follow the instructions and you will be another believer. Not cheap, but so worth it. Do not compromise on the Marine Clean and Metal Ready steps - proper prep is 90% of a good paint job.
And I agree that appears to be mostly trivial surface rust. Hit the nuts with PB Blaster the night before and I bet they'll come right off with no heat.
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Research so far indicates aftermarket uses the same for autos and mannys. There are one row and two row versions available.
The Spectra Premium CU314 is the "bolt in" two row version. I've found it for just over $140 locally, or $120 mail order.
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Call performance shops and get a price on custom or standard sized three core aluminum rads. They're NOT as expensive as most people make them out to be.
Yup, been looking into them as an option, but haven't found any that are specified to be near bolt in to Pathy's. All would require fabrication. Not a problem for me, but thought I'd check if anyone has done it already and found an "easier" solution. Many stock radiators are available for as little as $100 through Rock Auto.... If one of those slipped right in, BINGO!
As B mentioned to me a couple weeks ago, I really don't HAVE to take it on to myself to reinvent EVERYTHING!
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Seems the stock cooling system could barely keep up with the 115 degree temps last week..... It never overheated, but I did have to pay attention and drive smart to keep things in check.
In the interest of making a "darned good" truck into a "close to perfect" truck I never have to worry about, I'd like to put in a higher capacity radiator.
I currently have the stock '87 V6 with MT radiator. It is the original, but in exceptional condition (no visible corrosion, plugging, or blooming) as it has been serviced regularly. Already running 60/40 mix with water wetter and flushed the living daylights out of it last winter so I've taken it as fas as I can. I'm sure just a brand new radiator will provide some improvement, but as long as I'm going to spend money, why not go for even more?
I already have an electric fan so I have lots of room for a much deeper radiator.
Anybody research and find easy bolt in replacements with significantly more capacity?
Like from a later model Pathfinder?
Or how about from A/T model? Are they larger to compensate for the need to provide more cooling
Or a radiator from another vehicle that requires minimal fabrication?
All ideas welcomed!
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I concur. It is absolutely, positively a T-Max.
My impressions? I'm too danged busy these days! Still sitting on floor....
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Hopefully you've got through it by now...
As I recall, high NOx is generally caused by high combustion temperatures. Other than producing hign NOx emissions, this is a good thing (within reason, of course).
Things I can think of that generate high combustion temperatures at idle:
- Ignition timing off (even a couple degrees can do it)
- Malfunctioning EGR's
- Problems with cooling system resulting in hot combustion chambers
- Exhaust problems (restrictions or manifold leaks)
- High compression (carboned up combustion chambers?)
- Short duration, high torque cam profiles (not likely if stock engine)
The HT383 in my van is famous for being difficult to pass NOx as the cam in it generates very high cylinder pressures for maximum efficiency and torque. Unfortunately, high temps come along with it.
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Alarm with pager. No sense putting the siren outside... Nobody cares but you. If you MUST have the siren, put it INSIDE the car. Maybe it will annoy the thief enough that they'll give up.
And a hidden ignition disabler can slow them down - but be careful. It needs to be an ultra-reliable system. I bought a vehicle that had an ignition disabler installed by a "professional". It disabled the ignition while I was passing a truck and hit a pothole. The "professional" used a cheap a$$ switch...
You can NOT prevent a serious thief. All you can do is make it annoying enough that maybe, just maybe, they'll go for an easier target.
Oh, and taking the wheels with you is a good deterrent. But kinda inconvenient....
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You mean when at a stop, right?
Yes, a hiss with the clutch out is OK. When you push the clutch in, it disconnects the engine from the input shaft of the trans. When you let the clutch out in neutral, the engine is now connected to the input shaft of the trans and now that shaft is spinning - so you may near a LITTLE noise from things moving around in there. And if you have the upper bearing going out, it becomes more like a rumble or hum or whine or maybe even louder.
You have read this, right?
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621
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We live for moments like this!
Easy and CHEAP repairs are the most wonderful things...
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How's your oil level?
That drop on the bottom of the oil filter sure looks suspicious to me! When did you last change the oil and filter?
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My garage mantra:
There are no such things as mistakes. Only valuable learning experiences!
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POR-15 with Black Coat (for glossy finish) or Chassis Black (for semi-gloss)!
And take your time on the prep work. 99% of paint failures is due to insufficient prep.
As far as the hinge pin, do you know anyone with access to a lathe?
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Again, doing a search on this website will help you a bunch. We've all considered and discussed these topics, some over and over... And some of us have tackled the challenges as well and reported back on the goods and bads...
To summarize: 33" tires will require a lot more than just a 3" body lift. All that weight will cause a bunch of other issues.
Unless you are ready to start cutting sheet metal and/or beefing up everything, 31x10.5 is about as much as tire as you want.
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Good day and welcome!
I purchased Transworld's Pathy as he is shipping out for a couple years with the Coast Guard.
He purchased the rack through Summit Racing.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku
The more difficult is getting bars to mount the roof to! I fabricated my own. Transworld bolted his to the factory roof rack - this works, but only for light loads (100 lbs max, I'd say)
There are several threads here about doing body lifts. Here's a good one:
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5599
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How can you say stupid? You found it. You fixed it.... Sounds pretty darn sharp to me!
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Did you say rebuild the A/T?
Then I do have suggestion: Unless you personally know a good rebuilder with a proven track record (there are some out there, but elusive critters to say the least!), then don't bother! Do some searching around here to see why. A/T's of ANY make just don't make good candidates for rebuilding - far too complicated and boo-boo intolerant for the 95% of "professional" A/T mechanics that appear to be nothing more than knuckle dragging clueless buffoons or out and out thieves. Instead, get a "remanufactured" trans, a low mileage JY trans, or an imported pull out.
Better yet, invest your time, effort, and money to swap in a 5 speed and sleep at night.
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I've heard enough to say with 95% confidence it is a classic slipping clutch.
Replace the friction disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing for sure. I would also strongly suggest a new flywheel. It sounds like it has been slipping for a while and quite a bit at times (the smell is an indicator!) so it is now a prime candidate for heat related warping.
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I am very sorry to hear about this outcome. It's just not right...
If only you were on the west coast, I would be over there like now to help you swap in a 5 speed tranny and do the timing belt with you. IMHO, these trucks are just too nice to give up on.
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Yup, time to clean, scrape and investigate.
And get cozy with someone with a mig welder! Plate that sucker up and coat it thoroughly with POR-15 when done! 330K is just breaking in mileage...
And if you have ever considered putting in longer control arms...
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Get the ball rolling time:
The two I thought of last night:
- Tap into the cruise control output so the fan shuts off when cruise is activated (very easy, but only a partial solution)
- A lever arm switch mounted to the tranny case that is depressed by the shift lever when 5th gear is selected so fan is shut off when up to 5th gear speeds. (More work, but best I've come up with so far)
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So I'm laying in bed last night thinking (the curse of the nerd...) and thought it would be fantastic to put a switch in my electric cooling fan circuit that shuts it off when I hit about 30 mph, and back on when I slow down below 30. Do I need it? No, but hey, it would be so slick... And it would be good for others who aren't as careful as I am.
Anybody have any ideas?
(This is for analog speedo '88)
squeek, squeek, squeek
in The Garage
Posted
If it is the brake pads hitting the wear limit "chirping" material, you'll be OK (if not annoyed) for a few more weeks so no need to panic yet.