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mws
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Posts posted by mws
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First off, the air and fuel requirements at idle are very, very low, so if something is even just a little amiss, you get these problems. The root cause may exist at all rpm, but it only causes problems at idle.
I'm going to assume you have been running name brand quality gasoline. If so, the problem is most likely in the air supply. If you've been running cheap gas, you'll also need to consider dirty injectors, fuel pumps, etc etc.
Based on my personal experiences the first things I would check:
- Clean the IAC valve. This is what controls how much air the engine gets at idle. A little carbon on the valve can cause it to stick and not operate as smoothly as desired.
- Check very carefully for vacuum leaks. If there is a leak anywhere after the MAF sensor, the engine will get more air than the computer thinks it is, so it gets quite confused. After 10 years, it would be well worth your time to just replace ALL vacuum hoses - especially if you park in a garage with a refrigerator or freezer.
Just went through this on my wife's '95 BMW. The root cause there was cracks in the rubber boot between the MAF and throttle body. The boot is convoluted to allow flexing, and there were cracks in the convolutions. Smeared some silicon and let it cure, and now it runs perfect again. A new boot is on order.
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Cool! Thanks!
I just PM'd Phil through the board here. Hopefully he's not too busy to sell me a kit!
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Does anyone have a phone number to reach L&P? I want (need?) to order a steering kit, but am not getting a response from my e-mails to them. I understand there have been some changes there and it is a small shop, but it has been a couple weeks and I'm starting to suspect they gave up entirely? I'd like to know for sure before I go with Cal-Mini...
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Always better to throw out too much info rather than too little, says I! It's easier to ignore too much than to find more!
Yes, I'm in the middle of learning a lot about GM alternators. My '87 chassis came with a CS130, and I tried to retrofit my super duty 10SI off the 79. After much research, I instead chose to put a 200 Amp (yes, 200 amp!) CS144 in and am completely redoing the wiring for that. The tow van will have 2 Taurus radiator fans, a fan on one of the tranny coolers, full time quad headlights, extra fog lights, a couple thousand watts of stereo, and 3 batteries.... 200 amps seemed about right
A great resource for understanding GM alternators is Mark at M.A.D. Enterprises. Great guy, very knowledgable, sells very nice electrical kits to install SI and CS alternators. They come with small books to tell you all you need to know!
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FYI, you rarely need ANY fan while driving on the highway - that's why electrics can save so much fuel! Over about 30 mph, there is enough air ramming through the radiator that no fan is necessary. It's when you're stopped or driving slow when you need the fan. Especially if you have the A/C on. You must ALWAYS have the fan on whenever the compressor is engaged (A/C or defroster) is on at speeds under 30 to keep air flowing through the condensor. That's why all good fan controllers tap into the compressor wiring. I put a manual switch in to bypass this and shut off the fan when running the A/C on the freeway, but do so at your own risk. You must remember to un-bypass as soon as you slow down or your A/C gets much less efficient and could even be damaged (low risk, but still).
I drove mine for a couple months without any fan at all... Just avoided in town traffic and kept an eye on temp gauge and did not use A/C or defroster...
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Cool! It sounds like I will be definitely pursuing (and photographing) this!
It sounds like you are referring to the very common 10SI version of GM alternator. If it is a metal fan behind the pulley, it is 10 SI. If metal and plastic composite fan (looks more like a disk) then it is the (usually) higher output 12SI. Both came in many outputs, from about 50 to well over 100 amps, 63 amp versions being extremely plentiful. They all look the same, so you need to buy from a reputable place to know what you're really getting. In general, the later the model, the higher the output - because electric radiator fans and power everything became more common. If you're going to a JY to find one, look for early 80's FWD tranverse V6 engined cars with high trim levels (power everything) as most seem to have had around 100 amp versions. And transversely mounted engines almost always have electric radiator fans, V6's needing very high power ones.
As an aside, the 10SI came with all 4 versions of clocking from the factory over the years - 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock - so it should be possible to do this swap without even needing to re-clock if you find the right alternator. For reference, the clocking refers to the location of the 2 spade terminals relative to the the thinner and threaded mounting lug as viewed from the rear.
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Also, if you are looking to install one of the high powered fans (like the 3.8L Taurus or the super beast Lincoln Mark VIII fan, grunt grunt grunt) , I recommend using fusible links over fuses. Powerful electric motors pull quite a bit of extra current at start up, and fuses tend to blow annoyingly often in this kind of application. A fusible link is better suited to this kind of application. They almost never "blow" or fail except when something goes terribly wrong...
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Many of us are using OE fans because they are cheaper, more powerful, and generally more durable and reliable. I have a 3 speed BMW 528 fan in mine (got it free), and several others are using the very powerful 2 speed fans from 3.8L Ford Tauri/Lincoln Continentals. I am putting 2 of these in my tow van.
These move a LOT of air - I'd estimate well over 3000 cfm, but do require 75 amp or doubled up 30 amp relays on high speed.
I use the Flex-a-lite 31165-VSC controller to automatically control the fan on the low speed setting because it is has so many functional options, and then have a manual switch to kick on the hurricane mode if needed. Haven't needed it yet!
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I believe you could use 2 part casting silicones to make extremely flexible molds. We have done that here - jsut carve the desired shape out of plastic or aluminum or wood or whatever (just needs to be able to have the desired surface finish) and then pour the silicone around it. Once it cures, carefully peel it off and you have a reusable mold.
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Dohhh... I guess some of the CS series also came with 180 degree ears...
So the case cosmetics and connector style (2 spades = SI, four smaller contacts = CS) appear to be the real identifiers.
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You mention two terminals, so I am assuming you are referring to the super common 70's/early 80's SI series alternators? These were the ones with the mounting ears across from each other (180 degrees apart). In the mid '80's, GM switched to the larger, more powerful CS series - which have 4 contact connectors and mounting ears about 120 degrees offset.
If so, this could be way cool.... I have a pumped up 150 amp version collecting dust on a shelf in my garage!
I'll have to check it out, and if it looks good and I go for it, I will take pictures!
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You would use 5 to maybe 50 psi in the Air-lift bags and a standard floor model bicycle pump is plenty (sorry, no justification for compressor here!) The bags will give you about 10x more added capacity per psi over airshocks as they have about 10X the surface area.
If you go with JGC springs in the rear, you will want to add a spacer to the airbag, or contact Air-Lift and ask what bag you should use. They have many different sizes.
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I haven't found them to need much... Nor have I seen much available. The headlights are a unique shape, and they are a good design. For offroad use, most of us add a few driving/spotlights when we really want dawn at midnight...
I just run good bulbs (none of that "look at me I'm a wheenie" blue krap - they reduce visibility and burn out too fast..) and keep them clean.
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And use the money you were planning to spend on new shocks and get a transmission temperature gauge!
I see you have a cooler already, but for towing, you may need a second. A temp gauge is under $75 and will tell you exactly what's going on.
Overheating an automatic = EXPENSIVE problems.
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I have the Air Lift springs and REALLY like them. I carry my KTM on a receiver rack on my '87. Thats over 300 pounds dead weight centered about 1.5 ' beyond the bumper... Much more than your trailer tongue should be applying.
Without the bags, the stock springs compressed about 3". With max air pressure allowed by Air Lift, it came back up to within 1/2" of stock ride height, with much higher effective spring rate to match. Fantastic. And the best part? When not towing, let the air out and no butt-high spine jarring ride!
I run air bags on the front and rear suspensions of my tow van, as well.
I would give it a try with your existing shocks - if they are better than average units and not worn out, they may be quite adequate to handle your light trailer. The Sears Roadtamers (?) that came on my pathy when I bought it do quite OK with the carrier. Right on the edge, but OK.
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And of course, those of us with 5 speeds get the easy way out! Put her in reverse, lock the parking brake and block the wheels, and torque away!
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Another point for the Luker...
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PM me your mailing addresses... With all the krap going on in my life these days, I have a verrrry tenuous grip on my mind and it could slip away any minute!
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Ahhhhh! Learned something new! Thanks!
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I recall the damper door control to be a cable on my '87.... or was that another vehicle? No, I'm pretty sure it was the '87 pathy.
I suspect the end of the cable came off one end or the other.
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Just wait till they get the magnetic fluids on the market, hit a button and you have a solid link, hit it again and the link will move all over.
Yup to both of you... I'm trying to get "research" samples of the magnetic fluids, but will likely use a sliding pin arrangement as I'd like to design something cheap and simple that others could duplicate. I'm trying to design a system that can use the ubiquitous power door lock mechanisms (small motor with rack and pinion linear actuator) as they are incredibly cheap to purchase and replace.
The challenges have been to design a way for the limited power of these units to "pull the pin" when the suspension is loading the link, yet have it "lock" together solidly enough that it is not rattling around and noisy when driving on the street. My current design has too many parts and springs to be easy to build, or be as reliable as desired. Oh, and I want it to pull the ends of the rear bar up out of the way.
A ramp and ball mechanism (as used in quick release pneumatic fittings) is another neat solution, but hard to make it "shade tree manufacturable".
Stuff like this is what I think about when bored or can't sleep.
Another glimpse into the enginerd's mind... -
Please forgive me if this has already been investigated and eliminated.... I didn't have time to read the entire thread, only the first page. I'll try to make time to review. In the meantime:
The initial problem description sounded like a classic case of an out of control (doing the wrong thing at the wrong time) Idle Air Control valve - either due to it being bad, or because it was getting bad directions from the ECU. It sounds like the ECU is OK, so then I would think about errant inputs to the ECU. The main inputs to the ECU that could cause it to midsbehave that badly would be engine speed sensor and TPS.
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Sorry Martin...I had to.
Huh, you mean someone has already done it?
:o
Well, I bet I could do it BETTER! sly
And that, my friends, is probably the clearest view into the thought process of an engineer you will ever see!
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Putting the "but seriously" hat back on...
I want to design and build a remotely actuated disconnect. Just because I think I can, and because I enjoy challenges like that.
Yes, it is like a sickness.... But at least it is cheaper than a drug habit!
Contacting L&P
in General Forums
Posted
What a great response! Phil sent me a PM as well. As soon as I confirm I need the small taper version, I will be ordering the stage 3 kit.